Tools For Additional Torque on Philips, Flathead, Torx fasteners than screwdrivers can apply?

[oldschoolcraft]

I've encountered a handful of circumstances in life where I hit a fastener, usually a Torx, that I can't turn with a 1/4" Torx bit in a bit driver, and I gave up. Not because of rust, but I'm guessing the manufacturer purposely put more torque on it than a bit driver could handle. It's also possible they red loctited it.

With Philips head, the only time they were too hard to turn was if they were rusted in.

I was watching Last Best Tool and he wanted to tighten the Torx fastener on a Tekton flex head ratcheting wrench, and his Torx driver couldn't generate the torque, and he didn't want to risk shearing his US-made Craftsman Torx driver so he gave up.

I always assumed sockets that have inserts for fasteners that are traditionally in screwdriver shape, like Philips and Torx were made for speed and efficiency purposes to use ratchets. I'm wondering if they also are for scenarios where the torque is too much than you can generate with a handle held screwdriver.

Or are cases where a screwdriver handle doesnt work are ones where you should try something else like heat or lubricating oil or drilling out the fastener with an extractor? Maybe if the fastener is torqued in so much that a screwdriver can't get it, then you're going to shear the Torx socket or ratchet head if you apply more force?

 

[Dave455]

First off, try using a dedicated screwdriver, not a bit driver.

With a dedicated driver, the blades and handles get bigger as the size gets bigger, so you can exert much more torque thsn with a bit driver. If you are dealing with a slotted screw, the torque that can be delivered from a large screwdriver, with a heavy shaft and tapered tip is considerable

Next off, try a bit socket with a ratchet, or whatever. If you have good bit sockets the drive size of the bit will, again, increase proportionally in the bigger sizes, and will deliver much more torque than a bit driver.

I use something like these KoKen. Note how, even on the two piece socket, they don’t use a standard size hex bit, but increase the size proportionally. The one piece are even more rigid.


Finally, try a hammer operated impact driver. If that doesn’t work you’re into heat, welding a bit in, or drilling the screw out!

 

[theoldwizard1]

Finally, try a hammer operated impact driver. If that doesn’t work you’re into heat, welding a bit in, or drilling the screw out!

If you have a compressor and some extra money, get a Shake-n-Break.

Hand impact is a great alternative !

 

[LXCam]

Sounds like you need some mechanical advantage

Not necessarily this one, but there are many like it

https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Impact-Driver-8-Inch-CMMT14104/dp/B07R96M9VW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Cc_windsurfer]

A Cordless impact driver should be your friend

 

[danielbuck]

If you have a compressor and some extra money, get a Shake-n-Break.

Hand impact is a great alternative !

I second this! For me, disassembling old machines and vehicles, shake-n-break works wonderfully

 

[darkzero]

Sounds like you need some mechanical advantage

Exactly. But what I had in mind is more leverage. When I need more torque on a screw than a screwdriver can apply, then I'll use a ratchet. But impact or power tool works too when appropriate.

If the bit or screw gets damaged then you're exceeding what they rated for. If it's threadlock or rust causing them to be stuck, I'd deal with that first before trying to loosen, ie heat.

Speaking of which, I tried watching LastBestTool for a little while, I can't watch him anymore (but he hasn't made my banned YT list which is only 2 channels). I was surprised he put out a video on Icon tools (not that I've watched them), I presumed he would always just be a big Snap-on fan boy.

 

[FigN⋅m]

I tried watching LastBestTool for a little while, I can't watch him anymore

Funny, I kind of hit the same wall...watched a bunch from a year or so ago, but lately it seems
all Olight/Amazon gizmos etc. surrounded by piles of seemingly unused tools.

Anyway - if there is space, any consideration for T-handle style Torx drivers?
We used them a ton at the bike shop, (albeit spoiled by the Park Tool THT-1 sliders)
and rarely had any major issues from T6 to T40, but I know how environment-dependent that can be.

 

[Chrome Vanadium Cody]

another option in a pinch is pipe wrench/vise grips on a screwdriver shaft with the back of the screwdriver handle braced against your leg to avoid cam out

 

[cherrybomb]

A old fashioned but handy tool is a sliding tee handle,try it,you might be surprised

 

[srs2000]

Funny, I kind of hit the same wall...watched a bunch from a year or so ago, but lately it seems
all Olight/Amazon gizmos etc. surrounded by piles of seemingly unused tools.

This is what happens when you will make videos for anything the manufacturers will send you free. The constant olight a̶d̶s̶ videos were too much for me and I mostly checked out. Everything just started to feel like an ad.


As far as bits.. I use up to t55 in 1/4" bits with a 1/4" or 3/8" ratchet. In my use case I'm not having problems. I'm mainly taking off car parts like seat belts and door strikers with the larger torx. I'd have zero chance removing them with a hand screwdriver.

If OP doesn't have a socket to use bits on a ratchet that'd be my first purchase.

 

[richfinn]

In defense of "Last Best Tool", I bought an O-Light head torch from Amazon and it absolutely Rocks

 

[richfinn]

To answer the OPs question

I have a 3/8" Ko-ken Attack driver and the few bits I need for automotive work (and a nice dead blow T Block hammer from Hultafors)

Ph#2 and Ph#3 Vessel Impactas

Set of Vessel Megadora "pound through" screwdrivers with "jaws fit" that helps grip the inside of the screw head better

Facom 1/4" bit driver set (you can set it up as a mini T handle or regular bit ratchet with extendable length for depth)

Set of 90mm long 1/4" Bahco screwdriver bits for my Bosch cordless hex driver

I also carry a mini butane torch for softening loctite/heat shrinking and some valve grinding paste for already damaged screw heads and a small pick for cleaning out screw heads before I start (particularly on old Torx screws)

I tend to stick to quality JIS compliant Japanese brands after tinkering with old Motorcycles for 40 years (I've encountered a lot of tight crosshead screws)

Cordless Impact wrenches and drivers and air hammers with a "shake and break" are nice tools to have

 

[milky2k]

I was watching Last Best Tool and he wanted to tighten

I stopped watching that guy long ago. I feel like he takes a long time to say a whole lot of nothing.