Tools for Bicycle Repair

[maximummax]

Hello, I have a Mongoose Hilltopper mountain bike for light errands on paved streets. I would like to learn how to repair it, especially brake adjustments/changes, lubricating the chain, tire changes, stuff like that. What brands and models of bike tools do you recommend? Youtube has LOTS of videos about techniques. Can you recommend either websites or Youtube videos?

It uses 26x1.5 front and rear tires. I'm having trouble finding the right tires. Are 26 1.25/1.5 or 26 1.5/1.75 the correct size? Also, is Kenda a good brand just for regular paved street riding=?

Would you recommend 30 or 60 TPI for riding on paved streets?

What brand(s) of tire chains would you recommend?

For the chain checker, is a cheap generic ($.99 on Ebay) okay, or do I need to by the $10.95 Park Tool version?

Along those lines, is there an alternative to the $37 Park Tool CN-10 Cable and Housing cutter?

 

[rijndael]

Park Tools

 

[acer66]

I second park tool website and here is a tread about tools.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=303242

 

[General Geoff]

Good allen keys and thin service wrenches are a good start. Many bicycle components require special tools like a cassette lock ring removal socket and a chain whip for removing rear cassettes. There are also chain breakers, crank extractors, bottom bracket removers, wheel truing stands, spoke tensioning wrenches, etc.

Some of these procedures can be accomplished with standard mechanics' tools, but the bike-specific tools make life a lot easier. Park Tools is the Snap-On of the bicycle mechanic world, they offer just about every bike-specific tool you'll ever need.


Oh, and if you're gonna be working on bikes a lot, you should invest in a decent service stand. Makes a lot of repairs much easier.

 

[RTM]

As the General said, the stand is a huge help. I would suggest starting simple, and buy as you need. If you have no existing tools, tire change & gear and brake adjustments is where I'd start, buy what you need to do those job. I bought a bunch of tools from a guy who gave up biking after a year, with every tool imaginable, mostly unused (i gave away to friends). Then learn to use them. I had to show a guy how to use the chain whip, he was putting it on backwards.

 

[designer485]

As others have already posted, a stand is a huge help when working on a bike. I have had my Feedback Sports Ultimate stand for almost 20 years and I would not want to work on a bike without it.

Park Tool is definitely the Snap-On of bike tools (not in quality but in selection of bike specific offerings and notoriety in the bike maintenance world) and Pedro's is also well respected. The way I looked at it was if the bike shop was going to charge me more than the tool cost, I bought the tool and learned how to fix it myself. I have now built countless bikes and never need to step foot in a shop. I buy as I go for the job that I need to do.

My most used tools for bikes are definitely a set of metric T-Handles. They are used every time I am working on my bikes. You can take apart most of a modern bike with those. My cable cutters are also a must have for trimming new gear cables and as well as cable driven brakes. Bottom brackets, headsets, disk brakes all take specialty tools, buy these as you need them. Derailleurs can be adjusted with a standard set of screwdrivers. If you get into hub maintenance, cone wrenches will be needed, but that is usually not a top priority.

I would also recommend the metal reinforced plastic tire levers. These will help with stiff steel bead tires and on some DH tires all three will be needed to do one tire.

A good floor pump like a Joe Blow with a flip flop head is also very nice to have, although recently I am liking the looks of the M12 inflator.

I also have things like headset removal tools, wheel truing stand, brake bleeding kit and suspension service items, but again, those can come as you get to those needs.

If you have an specific questions, feel free to ask.

 

[maximummax]

I have a bike rack that fits on the back of my car. Would that suffice if I only work on my bike on occasion?

I read the recommended thread. That's 4 years old. Any beginner's/starter's kits you'd recommend so that I can get things off the ground?

 

[acer66]

I have a bike rack that fits on the back of my car. Would that suffice if I only work on my bike on occasion?

I read the recommended thread. That's 4 years old. Any beginner's/starter's kits you'd recommend so that I can get things off the ground?

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=435292

Not a big fan of kits but I would get something like this.
https://www.parktool.com/product/home-mechanic-starter-kit-sk-3

 

[designer485]

That park set would be a great starting point for sure.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=435292

Not a big fan of kits but I would get something like this.
https://www.parktool.com/product/home-mechanic-starter-kit-sk-3

 

[DGersic]

Hello, I have a Mongoose mountain bike and would like to learn how to repair it, especially brake adjustments/changes, lubricating the chain, tire changes, stuff like that. What brands and models of bike tools do you recommend? Youtube has LOTS of videos about techniques. Can you recommend either websites or Youtube videos?

I worked as a bike mechanic through high school and college. Buy Park tools.

I agree with the buy as you go suggestions. You don’t need a full set of Park and Campy tools to change a flat tyre.

Start with something easy and straightforward, like changing tyres. Get what you need, and do it. You can pull off the ones you have now and put them on again.

Brakes aren’t much more difficult. If you can identify the type you have, get whatever tools you need to adjust them. Mostly they shouldn’t need adjustment, though. I’ve gone years without having to adjust brakes on my own bikes.

Chain lube I’ve never really found anything better than a rag and a can of your favorite spray lube. Wipe off most of it anyway, you don’t want a drippy gloppy mess.

After that, how far you go or want to go is up to you. Ask about specific repairs as you undertake them.




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[nichocha33]

I like Pedros tools and a bike stand, I have the Spin Doctor stand and its great for the money.

 

[driftpin]

The car bike rack for work would be like trying to drink your bottle of milk out of a milk crate. Sure, you could do that, but there is a much, much better way...

For one thing, a bike workstand allows you to rotate the pedals/chainring while you're tuning derailleurs. Sure, you could set your bike on your bike rack, and do it, but it's not gonna be easy as having a proper workstand.

You probably already have some basic tools, but the narrow-thickness wrenches you'll need, the puller for the crank, one pr wrenches for your steering head, a good cable cutter, etc. The advice about buying the tools you need for your bike work will pay for themselves usually on the first use, unless you're buying a steering head race setting tool.

Get a good bikestand, you'll be glad you did.

 

[thin_concrete]

Park has a good set of metric Allen keys that I use for a lot of things outside my bikes. You should get Zinn’s bicycle maintenance book if you’re just starting out. I still refer to it from time to time, and I have been maintaining my bikes for 10+ years.

 

[Stefan S]

Be prepared too for tons of proprietary tools and infuriating changes to “standards” as far as some of the specialty items.

 

[1cargarage]

What's your budget? Are you the type who gets excited about really nice tools? If so, there's a ton of crazy expensive stuff to be had out there.

With respect to Mountain Bike kit, this video is probably my favorite and the most thorough:

TOOL BRANDS

EVT - EFFICIENT VELO TOOLS

https://www.efficientvelo.com/

Small ~1 man operation (Brett Flemming) who makes or oversees production of all the tools in Portland, OR. EVT makes very high quality shop-tools, which can be difficult to justify if you're only performing the tools' intended service periodically. Everything I've used, owned, or had my hands on from EVT is absolutely top-of-the-line.

ABBEY BIKE TOOLS

https://www.abbeybiketools.com/

Relatively newer company that makes very nice tools. Their stuff is more "new-age" if that makes any sense (lots of cnc & anodized aluminum) and is more technician oriented rather than shop oriented. Super nice stuff though and extremely well thought out. Expect to pay for it though.

VESSEL SCREWDRIVERS

You're going to be working on a lot of Japanese components and you're going to happier if you have nice JIS phillips drivers. The Vessel drivers are the best option for this IMHO.

BONDHUS HEX WRENCHES

Talk to any bike tech about wrenching and he or she will tell you about the nuances between hex key brands. Most (full time) bike techs I've known use Bondhus as their preferred hex wrenches because of their superb engagement with fasteners, longevity, and relatively low cost.

Others to consider:

HOZAN - Japanese company that offers a comprehensive line of bike tools. Most made in Japan. Not the easiest to find though.

PHIL WOOD - Primarily his parts and tools are wheel/hub/crank related. Super nice stuff. If you get anything from PHIL WOOD, I'd recommend the "Tenacious Oil". That stuff is the real deal. Also, the Phil Wood waterproof grease is top notch.

SHIMANO - Shimano makes a handful of tools, some of which are specific to their components. The older Shimano stuff (MIJ) is fantastic quality and can usually be had for relatively cheap.

CAMPAGNOLO - You're not going to need any CAMPAGNOLO stuff especially if you only mountain bike, but their tools are all nice and made in Italy - just like their insanely expensive components. Perfect for obsessive collectors with silly little hats.

Oh, and of course PARK TOOL - Largest and most easily accessible bike tool company in North America w/ most of their stuff still made in the Midwest.

Park's Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair is a great resource and has large, high-quality pictures to go with the instructions. I consult it from time to time and I have never considered it a waste of money.

Be prepared too for tons of proprietary tools and infuriating changes to “standards” as far as some of the specialty items.

^^^ This is very true and only getting worse I'm afraid. As bicycle components become "smarter" and more advanced, they have been getting smaller, more and more proprietary, and more difficult to work on. It's absolutely astounding how much high-end bicycles cost vs. how little value people put on having them properly serviced (how much they 'think' it should cost for a tune-up).

I could go on and on about bike tools. It is its own world.

Happy Hunting

 

[tonyprovo723]

A lot of bike shops have different clinics. REI has clinics as well if you have one in your area. They both are a source for tools.

I appreciate saving a buck online and convenience to click on Amazon to have delivered next day.

Both local and REI may match prices and be a source for support when needed. They often have local rides and events. A couple extra bucks on a purchase may be cheap when you need a tube on a Saturday morning before a ride with friends or family.

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[maximummax]

My bike uses 26x1.5 front and rear tires. I'm having trouble finding the right tires. Are 26 1.25/1.5 or 26 1.5/1.75 the correct size? Also, is Kenda a good brand just for regular paved street riding=?

Would you recommend 30 or 60 TPI for riding on paved streets?

What brand(s) of tire chains would you recommend?

For the chain checker, is a cheap generic ($.99 on Ebay) okay, or do I need to by the $10.95 Park Tool version?

Along those lines, is there an alternative to the $37 Park Tool CN-10 Cable and Housing cutter?

driftpin, what are pr wrenches for the steering head?

 

[BTL-A4]

QUESTIONS
1. My bike uses 26x1.5 front and rear tires. I'm having trouble finding the right tires. Are 26 1.25/1.5 or 26 1.5/1.75 the correct size?

2. Also, is Kenda a good brand just for regular paved street riding=?

3. Would you recommend 30 or 60 TPI for riding on paved streets?

4. What brand(s) of tire chains would you recommend?

5. For the chain checker, is a cheap generic ($.99 on Ebay) okay, or do I need to by the $10.95 Park Tool version?

ANSWERS
1. The 26" spec is the most important, since 27.5" or 29" tires won't fit on a 26" rim. The other spec is the width. If you are riding primarily on the street, get skinnier tires for less rolling resistance. The fatter tires will have a little more cushion. Look at the ones you have on the bike and buy a similar size. 26" tires are still available at any decent bike shop. Either of the size you mention will fit.

2. Kenda is a good brand. But, contact them and ask which tire they'd recommend for street riding. All tire makers have different tires for different conditions.

3. Go higher. I run 100 PSI on my skinny road bike tires and about 45 PSI on my fat mtn bike tires. Look on the tire to see the recommended inflation pressure.

4. Get the chain that goes with your derailleur. I have a SRAM derailleur, so I have to get a SRAM chain.

5. I got a decent chain checker, not the $0.99 one. I found it easier to use.

 

[lilredex]

Just buy or make your tools as needed, as I have done. Most came from China, direct on Amazon and Ebay.

My bike has 26" wheels and I use the widest that fit the frame without rubbing. Watch for discarded bikes in the garbage, for parts, tires and wheels, etc.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-DIY-Bicycle-Wheel-Truing-Stand/

One tip: If you need to remove a wheel like in the first photo, let the air out of the tire, that way you can pinch the tire past the brakes not having to fool around with them.

 

[bpjr]

I'm a dyi who works on my own bikes. I started with a couple Park tools...wrenches, crank puller, casset/freewheel tools etc and then one of those $35 bike kits on ebay. The kit gave many of the other tools that don't get used often and keeps me from waiting to buy something to finish a project. The cheap crank puller that came with the kit works same as the Park tool I originally purchased too. Added a few speciality tools for different bikes and a $40ish bike stand. If you cherry pick to see what pro tools are needed for everything, figure on spending a lot of time ordering and add $100s to the cost.

 

[CarBikeGuy70]

Just a quick comment. Park tools are ok at best for most service work on a bike. Never compare park tool to Snap On. I speak from many years in the bike biz.

 

[CarBikeGuy70]

Chain and freewheel / cassette should be compatable- derailleur is not in the equation of what will work. just an FYI.

 

[cleaner]

Do not look only at bike tool companies, as they are often not the best quality/price option.
Do not rely on ball end hex keys as you will round out the hex more easily with a ball end. If you only have one set of hex keys make sure they are not ball end. As mentioned above Bondhus makes excellent hex tools that will serve you for a very long time at a cheaper price than most, they are better than any bike brand I have seen.

Felco c7 cable cutters are better quality than park tool and can be found cheaper. Knipex pliers wrench in can cover many size fasteners with flats and I particularly like using them to adjust the rim brake calipers on road bikes.

I own tools made by Park Pedro’s Abbey etc. but those were purchased for very specific purposes which you will likely not need. In general the bike specific manufacturer is charging more money for commodity tools like screwdrivers.

The two main bicycles specific tools you want based on your initial post would be a cassette removal tool and a chain whip or the equivalent. I actually prefer the Pedro’s Vice grip replacement for a chain whip. Tire levers will be useful as well.

 

[maximummax]

BTL-A4, what brand of chain checker would you recommend?

 

[pfaustus]

Most of my bikes are old, and so are most of the tools. I tend to dislike Park. They are not the snap on of bicycle tools, they are Craftsman with all the gimmicks and rebranding that implies. Unfortunately the are practically the only sellers of a lot of specialty tools unless you want to hunt down way expensive Japanese or old European tools. But, for beginner maintenance, don't buy park for wrenches, screwdrivers and such, except their cone wrenches.

I can't recommend Vessel screwdrivers enough. I wonder how many derailleur limit screws have been stripped because no one knew about JIS screwdrivers.

Chain checkers are pretty much a waste of money if you have a tape or rule. https://www.bikeradar.com/features/how-to-know-when-its-time-to-replace-your-bicycle-chain/

The fact that Park sells them as a necessity in every bike shop and kit is an example of why not to trust them.

Never tried it, but lots of people recommend dremmels for cutting housing. In a pinch, a good pair of dykes can cut the cable, just don't expect to be able to thread the crushed and untwisting cable through eyelets or housing again. Most of the curved edge cable cutters out there are intended for copper and will chip if used on stainless cable and thus aren't much of an improvement on dykes. They do work ok for housing. I generally don't cut the cable until I am sure everything is working anyways.

I actually prefer my 30 year old aluminum tire irons to the new plastic ones, but I don't screw with carbon rims. Not that your mongoose is likely to have carbon anything.

Two cheap substitutes for stands. Old school continental shops use[d] two ropes with hooks handing from the ceiling. Hook one to the bars and the other to the back of the seat. The other easy substitute is two pieces of wood that would be the equivalent of mounting your car rack to the garage wall (except sticking out a bit farther so the crank can turn freely). And lets face it, everybody has flipped a bike over to work on it at some point or another. But a stand sure is nice.

 

[Shark Pilot]

Hello, I have a Mongoose Hilltopper mountain bike for light errands on paved streets. I would like to learn how to repair it, especially brake adjustments/changes, lubricating the chain, tire changes, stuff like that. What brands and models of bike tools do you recommend? Youtube has LOTS of videos about techniques. Can you recommend either websites or Youtube videos?

It uses 26x1.5 front and rear tires. I'm having trouble finding the right tires. Are 26 1.25/1.5 or 26 1.5/1.75 the correct size? Also, is Kenda a good brand just for regular paved street riding=?

Would you recommend 30 or 60 TPI for riding on paved streets?

What brand(s) of tire chains would you recommend?

For the chain checker, is a cheap generic ($.99 on Ebay) okay, or do I need to by the $10.95 Park Tool version?

Along those lines, is there an alternative to the $37 Park Tool CN-10 Cable and Housing cutter?

Kenda tires are fine for street use. Either width should fit on your rims, slight advantage of the 1.25/1.5 is it will be lighter and might have less rolling resistance. Usually the higher the tpi the better the tire in terms of ride quality.

Your bike should have Shimano 7 speed gearing so you will need a chain specifically for 7 speeds. I prefer SRAM chains over Shimano just because they are easier to deal with in terms of "breaking" them apart - and you will need to shorten a new chain to the correct length. I have been working on bikes for 45+ years and I don't own a chain checker or a repair stand. Before you replace the chain you need to check for wear on the rear cogs in terms of any "hooking" on the teeth. Usually I go through 2 chains and then it is time to replace the rear cassette/cogs. A good quality chain tool like the Park is worth having.

In terms of cutting cable housing, you are better off just taking the old housing pieces to a bike shop and have them cut you new ones to size. Inner cable can be cut with regular cutters or a sharp cold chisel.

Realistically, you have a bike worth $75-100 so you need to keep that in mind. Bikes from that era are usually decent quality and reliable and are definitely worth maintaining versus buying a new one. Google "Sheldon Brown" - his website has a lot of information, especially for older bicycle repair and maintenance.

 

[BTL-A4]

BTL-A4, what brand of chain checker would you recommend?

I currently have a Park Tools CC-2. I think I paid about $10, with a 15% discount. I wanted something better than the cheaper "rulers", but not one of the digital ones.
Read this for more info on chain wear tools:https://cyclingtips.com/2019/08/bicycle-chain-wear-and-checking-for-it/

It's a bit geeky, but informative. You can find lots of opinions.

Just try something cheap for now. I have 6 bikes in my family, that's how I justified the tool I have. I also wanted more info than just whether the chain was worn. I wanted some indication of how much.
In the link above, it mentions SRAM chains as needing a different gauge, but the CC-2 worked for me.

The ruler method also works, but I'm a tool guy, so I had to buy one!

 

[PFSard]

I currently have a Park Tools CC-2. I think I paid about $10, with a 15% discount.

Just for the record, I looked at these about a year ago. Over $20, if I remember correctly. Too rich for my blood.

Okay, I had to check....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EONOQC6/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Price : $22.78 & FREE Shipping
Plus AZ Sales Tax of roughly $1.80

 

[Shark Pilot]

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chain-wear.html

 

[maximummax]

To lubricate chains, would you recommend a spray or chain oil dropper? If oil droppers, what brands do you recommend?

Being used to single gear bikes, I didn't realize that I can shift gears on this bike. What are rules for when and how to shift? I'm mostly on flat streets, so what's the best front and rear combo?

Finally, I noticed that I AM able to shift into all gears (on bike stand), but NOT the front biggest one. How do I figure out if it's the derailleur, shift lever, or something else?

 

[General Geoff]

Shift down if it's too hard to pedal, shift up if it's too easy and you want to go faster.

For front chain rings, bigger = faster but harder to pedal. Smaller = slower but easier to pedal.
For rear cogs, bigger = slower but easier to pedal. Smaller = faster but harder to pedal.

 

[DGersic]

To lubricate chains, would you recommend a spray or chain oil dropper? If oil droppers, what brands do you recommend?

Being used to single gear bikes, I didn't realize that I can shift gears on this bike. What are rules for when and how to shift? I'm mostly on flat streets, so what's the best front and rear combo?

Finally, I noticed that I AM able to shift into all gears (on bike stand), but NOT the front biggest one. How do I figure out if it's the derailleur, shift lever, or something else?

Spray oil and a rag.

Get your pedal cadence to about 100 RPM. Shift up or down to maintain cadence.

Lever just pulls cable. You may need to adjust the limit screw. Back it out 1/16 of a turn, see if that helps. Back it out too far and the derailleur will push the chain over the chainring, so go slowly.



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[Polo_Karl]

I am a little wary of SRAM chains. I have snapped two rather new SRAM chains on my polo bike.
Not a fun experience.

Even came across a guy with a snapped chain on the trail once. I had to ask what brand and how old. SRAM, one week.

 

[HFlashman]

Here are a couple of suggestions: 1) The newer the bike the fewer the number of hex keys and wrench sizes. I went over the 10 bikes in my household (5 are mine) in order to update the bike riding repair kits and found the old ones had a lot of variation and the new bikes needed fewer keys, sockets and wrenches; 2) Preventive maintenance is vital. Lubricate the chain regularly. If you ride daily, then lube with Tri-Flo or equivalent every 3 or 4 days or once a week. Wipe down the chain before and after every ride! If your bike has traditional rim style brakes, wipe the rims with rubbing alcohol after every ride. Scrub the pads every time the wheel is removed. Make sure the seat post is lubed with grease. 3) In addition to a small repair kit, carry an extra tube, tire irons (the new plastic type) and tire repair kit, and a small hand pump. Practice removing tires, replacing tubes, etc., so it becomes easy and quick. Also, before removing the wheel when you get a flat, closely examine the tire ride surface to determine if you can find the nail, glass, metal etc that caused the flat. If so, you can simply pop the bead on the tire, pull out the tube and repair it without the major production of removing everything.

 

[maximummax]

For cable cutters, is Pedro's good enough, or do I need to buy this Shimano:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KNS3BG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Meursault74]

For cable cutters, is Pedro's good enough, or do I need to buy this Shimano:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KNS3BG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Pedros has been berry, berry good to me.

 

[senlow]

Park Tools is the Snap-On of the bicycle mechanic world

One should never compare Park Tools to Snap-on. Park Tools has an extensive line of tools, but they are not made Snap-on standards.

Wrench Force was the Snap-on of bicycle tools.

 

[maximummax]

Re: Classic Bike to Work On?

I appreciate the comments.

I understand that they don't make bikes like they used to. I'm interested in a steel-frame classic road bike, fixer upper is fine, unless a paint job is in order. I'm hoping to find one that I can use non-exotic parts, ie parts that I can find easily.

What brands/models would you recommend?

 

[DGersic]

Re: Classic Bike to Work On?

I appreciate the comments.



I understand that they don't make bikes like they used to. I'm interested in a steel-frame classic road bike, fixer upper is fine, unless a paint job is in order. I'm hoping to find one that I can use non-exotic parts, ie parts that I can find easily.



What brands/models would you recommend?

How vintage / classic are you looking for? 1950s? 1970s? 1990s?

What kind of riding? Race? Touring? A short wheelbase race frame rides a lot different from a long wheelbase touring frame.

Most Shimano parts were good. Suntour had some nice parts, some junk. Campy is well made, usually expensive. Avoid anything French.

Schwinn made some really nice road frames in the 1980s. Some got stupid parts hung on them, or weird and ugly colour schemes. Nicest riding bike I ever had was my ‘85 Paramount.

Trek made some nice frames, too. I’ve also had nice Raleigh frames, especially in touring setups. Most Italian made frames were well made and nice riding, but quality control was spotty.



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[HFlashman]

The advances in bike technology in the past 25 or so years is monumental. Bikes today are stronger, lighter and have better ergonomics than ever before and continue to improve.

You know, you might check out local co-op repair facilities, local colleges etc for tools and classes. My local university has a bike club on campus with a better equipped bike repair shop than some private shops. It is almost free to use, including non students, and filled with bike geeks with free advice and help.