tools for gears

[sierradmax]

I've always been hesitant to install gear sets in differentials or areas where high degree of precision is needed. I understand the physics related to proper pinion depth & backlash but I'm sure there's more to it than just having a dial indicator.

I want to swap a set of gears in a pair of jeep Dana 44 axles. I've received quotes between $500 to $1000 for labor only. I figure I could buy the proper tools and learn, even if the tools required amount to this.

Besides a dial indicator, what else would I need? Are there any decent kits available to service almost all makes of axles?

 

[Strouty]

lipstick

 

[anndel]

When I replaced the ring and pinion gears in my Toyota truck, just the basics like ratchets, wrenches, sockets, impact wrench and sockets, hammer, brass punches, retaining ring pliers, torque wrench, etc. You mentioned you have a dial indicator, caliper or micrometer would be helpful.

 

[American Locomotive]

You will need a dial indicator with a mag base, gear marking compound, a shim kit, a micrometer to measure the shims and a spare set of setup bearings. If you take your time, it's really not a big deal.

I set up a Ford 8.8 last summer, and it was the first axle I've ever done. Went fine.

 

[engineer2]

Beam or dial-type inch-pound torque wrench for pinion gear pre-load.

Official procedure is online, but not sure if the year applies.
http://media.spicerparts.com/cfs/files/media/XtCh3tGhAaZjJh5Ht/5310-3.pdf

 

[royesses]

A socket to fit the pinion nut and adapters for your torque wrench. I use a 1/4" drive dial type torque wrench. If it has a memory pointer on it you don't use that since you want turning torque, not breakaway torque. A pinion centering gauge is a nice thing to have and some differentials require a spreader to install the carrier bearing shims although I've managed to get by without.. If you do a google search you can most likely find a dozen or more video's of the rebuild on your differentials. A bearing separator to remove carrier and pinion bearings. I used to use white lead for checking the gear mesh pattern, but that has been outlawed. There are other marking compounds available now. You will need to look them up. A 0 to 1" micrometer is great for checking shim thickness, but a caliper will do. You'll need a way to press bearings on and remove them. A tapered bearing race remover/ installer set. Many gear suppliers have tutorials on line.

It's been a long time since I did this for a living so much may have changed.

Roy

 

[sierradmax]

I've got most of the tools mentioned. Plenty of sockets, plenty of wrenches. Torque wrenches, press, bearing separator, calipers, etc.

A dial w/ magnetic base is on the list to order.

How critical is initial setup of pinion depth?

 

[3 Gun Shooter]

I've got most of the tools mentioned. Plenty of sockets, plenty of wrenches. Torque wrenches, press, bearing separator, calipers, etc.

A dial w/ magnetic base is on the list to order.

How critical is initial setup of pinion depth?

I have been setting up rear ends for nearly 50 years, everything from regular old dealership rebuilds for noise/bearing/sloppy builds to performance and off road rear ends.

I start with the pinion shim that was in the rear end, that will get to either on the money or close to what you want. Then set the rear end up and pattern the gear set. I used to use white lead, but have had very good luck with a tube of GM gear marking compound (it is yellow).

To set up Dana rear ends it helps a lot to have a set of 'set up' pinion bearings. Just buy an extra rear pinion bearing and have a machine shop hone it till it has a slight slip fit on the pinion.

Use good quality gear sets, OEM used to always pattern the best, cheap performance sets like Zoom's never gave a perfectly clear pattern.

I have a few special holders to hold driveshaft flanges for crushing the crush sleeve (buy a few extra, you need to replace them everytime you set preload). I have an old Snap-on dial torque wrench and dial indictor.

One other tip, set the differential in the rear end WITHOUT the ring gear and measure the run out on the face, if more than .001 have the differential trued up before building it.

 

[crewchief888]

Dial indicator and mag base
1" micrometer, or a pair of calipers
Dial type inch/lb torque wrench, even a deflecting beam would work for a 1 time set up

 

[man-a-fre]

If your diff has a crush sleeve I always take the new crush sleeve and start the initial crush in the press to about half the height of the one I took out ,otherwise they take a lot of torque to start the intial crush on install . On GM 10 and 12 bolts I have always gotten by with using the same thickness pinion shim as original setup.

 

[zmotorsports]

I've got most of the tools mentioned. Plenty of sockets, plenty of wrenches. Torque wrenches, press, bearing separator, calipers, etc.

A dial w/ magnetic base is on the list to order.

How critical is initial setup of pinion depth?

Both pinion depth and backlash are critical for a quiet and trouble free installation but not hard to achieve.

Here is a video of when I changed out my Dana 44 OEM housing with a Dynatrac ProRock 44 housing last year and gave a short overview of gearset installations.

Besides what you have there I also have a bearing heater that I like to use and a Randy's bearing removal tool, both of which make the job progress faster but not necessary for occasional use. I do quite a few so I purchased the tools years ago to perform the jobs in a much more timely and professional manner.

I also show the process and describe the set up steps in my Shop Projects 2.0 thread (link in my signature). I believe the Dynatrac project starts around page 4 or 5.

 

[sierradmax]

Revisiting this thread as I'm finally getting around to start this task. I had hired someone to do this for me but didn't feel comfortable after noticing that the individual didn't record initial pinion depth, carrier shim thickness, and didn't index the carrier braces.

Anyways, here's the list of tools I have related to the task:

Centech Digital caliper: I realize these aren't crazy accurate but they should get me "in the ballpark" for checking shim thickness, race O.D., etc.
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-digital-caliper-63711.html

Neiko 1/4" drive beam torque wrench 0-80 in./lbs. (to check pinion pre-load)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FMXEWQC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Here's what I think I'll need.

Bearing Puller to remove pinion & carrier bearings.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAV0LUY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Depth micrometer to measure carrier journal depth and pinion face to determine pinion shim thickness.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PFC490A/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Brass punch set to drive shims.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007I9RKZ4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Housing spreader.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDDZBS8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Magnetic base dial indicator to measure backlash.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YPHT76/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Yolk wrench tool
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078TP1MGZ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The master rebuild kit came with KOYO bearings. I figure buy two carrier and the same pinion bearings and hone them out to be used as setup bearings. The pinion to the dana 44 does not use a crush sleeve but shims to set pinion pre-load. Any tips for initial setup or will I be playing a guessing game until I get it right?

 

[zmotorsports]

Revisiting this thread as I'm finally getting around to start this task. I had hired someone to do this for me but didn't feel comfortable after noticing that the individual didn't record initial pinion depth, carrier shim thickness, and didn't index the carrier braces.

Anyways, here's the list of tools I have related to the task:

Centech Digital caliper: I realize these aren't crazy accurate but they should get me "in the ballpark" for checking shim thickness, race O.D., etc.
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-digital-caliper-63711.html

Neiko 1/4" drive beam torque wrench 0-80 in./lbs. (to check pinion pre-load)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FMXEWQC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Here's what I think I'll need.

Bearing Puller to remove pinion & carrier bearings.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAV0LUY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Depth micrometer to measure carrier journal depth and pinion face to determine pinion shim thickness.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PFC490A/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Brass punch set to drive shims.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007I9RKZ4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Housing spreader.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDDZBS8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Magnetic base dial indicator to measure backlash.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YPHT76/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Yolk wrench tool
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078TP1MGZ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The master rebuild kit came with KOYO bearings. I figure buy two carrier and the same pinion bearings and hone them out to be used as setup bearings. The pinion to the dana 44 does not use a crush sleeve but shims to set pinion pre-load. Any tips for initial setup or will I be playing a guessing game until I get it right?

The only things I would say aren't necessary are the pinion depth tool and the brass punches for driving in shims. Not saying a brass punch isn't good to have as I use mine a lot, just not for driving in shims. To be honest with the case spreader you really shouldn't need to "drive" the shims in anyways. And in the even that you do I prefer to use the concave tools specifically made for shim seating. I bought mine from ARB many years ago and they get used some but not a lot.

Here is a link to the ARB shim tool assortment.
https://www.quadratec.com/products/...MIycTHzaL83gIVAb7ACh2CYw_zEAQYAyABEgKdc_D_BwE

As for the pinion depth tool, I have a nice one that has aluminum bushings that clamp into the carrier support straps and measures off the pinion but I seldom use it as I can get just as close by reading gear markings and adjusting accordingly. I have also found that over the past several years many of the manufacturers are not stamping the actual dimensions on the pinion, they are engraving the variance off of ideal. Then you have to go to a FSM to get the OEM recommended ideal depth which is usually associated with a symbol that you have to look up. I've found it easier and less time involved to just start with the initial pinion shim, then move according to gear marking readings.

When assembling the carrier for the first time, be absolutely certain that you continually have clearance (backlash), otherwise you will jam the gears together and possibly damage them.

Lastly, you will need a torque wrench for the carrier housing straps, but you may already have one that goes up to around 100 ft/lbs. as most of those get torqued to around 65-80 ft/lb range.

Lastly you will need a large socket for the pinion nut but they vary from axle to axle and kit to kit so you will have to get one to match the one in your new bearing rebuild kit.

Other than that, take your time and keep everything clean. Also check or actually file/stone your mating surfaces on all components as I have seen burrs on occasion and they can create erroneous readings and cause failures down the road as things move around. Be certain they are free of burrs and clean when assembling and sneak up on your setup.

Gearsets are tricky at times, but setting them up isn't rocket sciences to take you time and you will be fine.

 

[FSrepair&fabrication]

On many diffs there is a way to measure preload by how much torque is required to turn the pinion. On a d44 i believe it is 15-20in/lbs without the seal installed. seal adds 3-4 in/lb. This is with what shims you think are right, and the nut torqued to 200 ft/lb. I would start with the thickest shim in the pack, check it, and then maybe add a thin shim (.010) or so if its too loose. Remember, your bearings will wear a little bit from new so you dont want it too loose, but a little on the tight side will generally wear down to spec after some miles. Its not rocket science just mostly common sense. Especially if its going to be a low speed off roader. If youre running 60-70+ mph all day the measuerments become slightly more critical

 

[sierradmax]

Mike, Thanks for the advice.

I see that T&D pinion tool can be had for around $400. Unfortunately, the original pinions do not have an engraved depths. Yet, the new Koyo's do. I figure some gauge blocks and a depth micrometer will get me a base reading, minus shims.. Then add shims to make the difference?.. similar to how this individual did it.
https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/d7wbmja-jpg.24965/

I have the pinion nut socket, M18 1/2" impact driver and a torque wrench to 250 ft. lbs.

I like the ARB shim tool. You think a case spreader is absolutely necessary to drive in shims or in-out carrier install?

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike, Thanks for the advice.

I see that T&D pinion tool can be had for around $400. Unfortunately, the original pinions do not have an engraved depths. Yet, the new Koyo's do. I figure some gauge blocks and a depth micrometer will get me a base reading, minus shims.. Then add shims to make the difference?.. similar to how this individual did it.
https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/d7wbmja-jpg.24965/

I have the pinion nut socket, M18 1/2" impact driver and a torque wrench to 250 ft. lbs.

I like the ARB shim tool. You think a case spreader is absolutely necessary to drive in shims or in-out carrier install?

The case spreader in my opinion is about the only way to get the proper carrier preload. Merely trying to drive the shims in won't net the preferred results. For example let's say you are at 20 in/lbs rotating torque on the pinion nut, I like to see between 6-10 in/lbs additional rotating torque measure at the pinion when the carrier is installed with the proper preload, so you will see between 26-30 in/lbs at the pinion when the proper carrier preload has been achieved. It will be next to impossible to drive those carrier shims in to achieve the proper carrier preload. Driving them in can take up any clearances but it won't add preload. I hope that makes sense.

The ARB shim driver is good to ensure your shims are seated but I wouldn't want to merely drive them into the case, I would prefer to use the case spreader. So the ARB shim driver is a nicety not a necessity.

Again, I have the T&D pinion depth tool and have had for 20+ years but find myself seldom, if ever, using it. The same results can be had be reading the gears. Just remember to read face to flank first as that is your pinion depth before worrying about centering the wear pattern in the heel to toe which will determined with carrier side to side placement. Backlash will also be address with the carrier (ring gear) placement side to side after pinion depth is determined.

Personally, I would purchase the case spreader before worrying about the pinion depth tool. Actually with a little creativity you can measure you pinion depth with a caliper and some known blocks but again, gear reading will tell you the exact same thing.

 

[zmotorsports]

On a side note, if your pinion preload is set by a crush sleeve, you will want to fabricate some form of grunt tool. This will be a combination of your pinion yolk holder and a socket with long cheater of some sort. The crush sleeve is hard to get started with merely an impact. That initial crush takes upwards of 400+ ft/lbs to start in many cases.

 

[sierradmax]

The case spreader in my opinion is about the only way to get the proper carrier preload. Merely trying to drive the shims in won't net the preferred results. For example let's say you are at 20 in/lbs rotating torque on the pinion nut, I like to see between 6-10 in/lbs additional rotating torque measure at the pinion when the carrier is installed with the proper preload, so you will see between 26-30 in/lbs at the pinion when the proper carrier preload has been achieved. It will be next to impossible to drive those carrier shims in to achieve the proper carrier preload. Driving them in can take up any clearances but it won't add preload. I hope that makes sense.

The ARB shim driver is good to ensure your shims are seated but I wouldn't want to merely drive them into the case, I would prefer to use the case spreader. So the ARB shim driver is a nicety not a necessity.

Again, I have the T&D pinion depth tool and have had for 20+ years but find myself seldom, if ever, using it. The same results can be had be reading the gears. Just remember to read face to flank first as that is your pinion depth before worrying about centering the wear pattern in the heel to toe which will determined with carrier side to side placement. Backlash will also be address with the carrier (ring gear) placement side to side after pinion depth is determined.

Personally, I would purchase the case spreader before worrying about the pinion depth tool. Actually with a little creativity you can measure you pinion depth with a caliper and some known blocks but again, gear reading will tell you the exact same thing.

The description for using the case spreader to help set pinion pre-load and install carrier shims does make sense. The Dana 44 axles do not use a crush sleeve. They use shims to set pre-load.

 

[zmotorsports]

The description for using the case spreader to help set pinion pre-load and install carrier shims does make sense. The Dana 44 axles do not use a crush sleeve. They use shims to set pre-load.

It depends on which D44's you are referring to. The older ones like under the old FSJ's, GM's and Fords from the 70's and 80's use shims but any of the newer Dana 44's like in the Jeeps from 90's to current all use crush sleeves.

Main point is to be sure to set the pinion preload to the proper spec's. On the ones with shims, set it up to zero clearance and then try removing about .010" at a time until you sneak up on the proper preload setting.

 

[sierradmax]

For some reason, my 05 TJ Rubicon Dana 44 axles do not use crush sleeves.

FSM says to set pre-load to 20-40 in.lb. with new bearings, yet instructions state to install pinion seal first. shoot for 15-18 minus seal so I'm not at risk of damaging seal taking in and out?

 

[zmotorsports]

For some reason, my 05 TJ Rubicon Dana 44 axles do not use crush sleeves.

FSM says to set pre-load to 20-40 in.lb. with new bearings, yet instructions state to install pinion seal first. shoot for 15-18 minus seal so I'm not at risk of damaging seal taking in and out?

That's odd. I wonder if someone had installed a crush sleeve eliminator or for some reason they did both, but I don't know what the determining factors would be. My son's 2004 LJ had a D30 with crush sleeve, and the 2006 LJ Rubicon I did last year had crush sleeve as well as all of the JK/JKU's that I have been doing over the past several years.

Oh well, as for pre-load I have found a lubed seal lip really doesn't add any drag on the preload. Maybe an in/lb or two at the most but in most of the cases I really haven't seen any additional drag compared to the bearing's preload. Also for some reasons the Dana 44's like a little more preload than many other axles. My spec's show 22-35 in/lbs of rotating torque for the pinion preload with new bearings and 10-15 for used bearings. Most all other axles that I have done have been in the 10-15 in/lbs for used bearings with new bearings being in the 15-25 in/lb range but again, for some reason the D44's like that higher pinion preload. I've never had an issue with it as I am usually around the 27-30 range as I just can't quite bring myself to go over that 30 in/lb spec.

If you have the shims, ie. not the crush sleeve style, you will want to set up your shim pack to achieve the proper pinion preload before installing the seal, otherwise you will be installing and removing the seal which you won't be able to save. Once your correct pinion preload has been achieve then go ahead and install the seal but this is after all of your preliminary gear setup has been completed and you are moving on to final assembly.