Tools for troublesome caliper bolts!

[Jacobson]

Was changing rotors and had a stubborn lower caliper mounting bracket bolt.
I ended up getting a 3/8" breaker bar and standing on it. Eventually, I twisted off the bolt head. I was freaked out until I realized the spindle hole is not threaded (just the bracket itself) so once I loosen the rotor, I can just hammer and slide out the mounting bracket and just get another one (since I wasn't about to try removing the rusted stud remains in the original bracket).

When I did the other side, this time, I used the impact wrench. I used my Sunex swivel impact sockets. I progressively used 30lbs, then 75lbs, and then 150lbs. At 50lbs, it came out with ease. For the top bolt, I used my C-man wrench with a pipe on it.

I also replaced all 4 caliper bolts, just why not?

What tools do you prefer to remove caliper bolts?
Do you like to heat up the bracket first?

 

[gdocktor3]

I usually spray it with Kroil, then use my 3/8" dual 80 flex head with a stubby allen/hex socket or 6 point shallow socket. The difference is when I reassemble I use anti seize. I also use that same anti seize on the brake pads to prevent squealing.

 

[camd64]

If they give me any sign of fighting I go straight for the impact.

 

[M6erfan]

Kroil, and either electric impact or breaker bar...

 

[Derek420]

I've done a bunch of brakes I just use a 3/8 breaker bar. I have a Armstrong one and it's awesome the worst bolts for me is the 4 hub bolts. I had to change the hub on our grand caravan and the heads we're so crusty you could barely recognize them. I used some wd40 but pb blaster would have been better and my 3/8 breaker bar and it took awhile but got it all but the heads looked good couldn't believe it. Hada pile of rust in my drive way from everything being so rusty it was just falling off so iI smaked it with a hammer to get it all off. Had to take caliper off anyways so I also changed front pads. I've only broken bleeder valves. Had a hell of a time getting hub out it was seized up in there had to use a chisel and pry bar and hammer. I usually use a hammer and pb blaster to loosten up seized bolts can't use heat on caliper bolts because of the rubber plungers. I have a impact but won't get in there easily. I did break one bleeder valve this time but it left enough to grab still need to change it but I just loosened the bolt for brake line to bleed it, I'm careful not to get air in there in the first place. I hate when something so easy turns into a big hassle.

 

[anndel]

Cars I've worked on I spray Kroil or 50/50 mix of ATF & Acetone but noticed on all of them had blue Loctite on the threads. Couple that with rust and it'll be a ballbuster so in that case I use my air impact.

 

[HomeTheaterMan]

I go straight for the air impact too. I occasionally spray them down with penetrating oil first if they are really bad.

 

[JonDick13926]

Lost track of how many brakes I've changed on vehicles and so far a 1/2" impact hasn't let me down. I guess if I was dealing with steel parts (vs aluminum) I would heat it, but like I said I've never had to do that. I'll try a 3/8" impact first and then grab the 2235.

 

[WhiffySpark]

I usually spray it with Kroil, then use my 3/8" dual 80 flex head with a stubby allen/hex socket or 6 point shallow socket. The difference is when I reassemble I use anti seize. I also use that same anti seize on the brake pads to prevent squealing.

You're better off with actual brake lube. Firm believer anti seize shouldn't be anywhere near brakes. It dries out and gums up the slides and does the same to the pads.

I don't use dielectric grease either. I've had that dry out as well. Only thing I use is silicone on plug wires

 

[wafrederick]

I had troublesome issues for caliper bracket bolts on a 2006 Dodge Charger a week ago.Were on tight and my 24" Matco 1/2 drive locking head ratchet saved the day.Broke them loose and had to run a tap through one of the bolt holes and bolts.The GM W bodied cars were the same with the T60 fastners for the brake caliper brackets on the front.Had to break them loose by hand hearing a "snap" noise.

 

[gdocktor3]

You're better off with actual brake lube. Firm believer anti seize shouldn't be anywhere near brakes. It dries out and gums up the slides and does the same to the pads.

I don't use dielectric grease either. I've had that dry out as well. Only thing I use is silicone on plug wires

I've used this basically my entire adult life with no problem what so ever. http://3mcollision.com/3m-brake-lube-anti-seize-08945-copper.html

 

[Fedwrench]

What is this rust you speak of?

Favorite tools for caliper cross over bracket bolts would be my compact Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench and the applicable impact swivel socket. If clearance is an issue, I like my 30 inch SK breaker bar with a stubby impact socket.

 

[zendigital]

At work I use Open/Shut and a 1/2 drive 18in breaker, or an impact if there's room. But usually a few mins soaking in Open/Shut loosens most bolts enough to get off with a box wrench. The Open/Shut stuff's expensive as hell so at home and on side jobs I use a 50/50 mix of acetone and ****** fluid with pretty good result.

 

[royesses]

Impact is less likely to twist the head off. usually changing direction quickly will break the bolt loose. Penetrating oil may help as will heat. Then there are the stubborn dogs that just refuse to cooperate. Twisting the head off works with them.

 

[Mastermind]

Mostly my 3/8 snappy long handle flex head gets it done, followed by the 20v impact. Occasionally the 1/2 inch gun comes into play. And the long flex head matco ratchet wrenches. Also the super long gearwrenches with the box end to break them loose. Key with the torx/allen ones is get them cleaned out first.

 

[bubinga]

I've used this basically my entire adult life with no problem what so ever. http://3mcollision.com/3m-brake-lube-anti-seize-08945-copper.html

do you use that on rubber bushings too?

 

[Jacobson]

For this recent caliper job, the upper bolt was not accessible with a socket.
Is this pretty common? That one of the caliper bolts is blocked and can only be done with a wrench?

I used a box end wrench.
One time I used a socket and it slipped off.
I like using a wrench since there is less offset than a socket.
Is this the right thinking?

 

[L.Cheapo]

I usually reach for my hard handled 3/8" Snap on F936. Force of habit, maybe? If that doesn't work, the SHL80A comes out. Caliper bolts fear that thing.

 

[joe_padavano]

My favorite "tool" is a liberal application of anti-seize on the threads when I put it together. Never had a problem after that.

 

[Nero]

What is this rust you speak of?

Favorite tools for caliper cross over bracket bolts would be my compact Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench and the applicable impact swivel socket. If clearance is an issue, I like my 30 inch SK breaker bar with a stubby impact socket.

How do you like your CP? What model is it if you don't mind me asking?

 

[Tonellin]

heat

 

[Jim Johnstone]

Have you tried cursing at it? Sometimes it takes several abrasive words, but usually the bolts understand my anger and back down before I hurt them.

 

[dnschmidt]

Fedwrench, It's not nice for those of us that live in Phoenix to pick on those that live in the rust belt. However, it is great fun I will admit.

 

[nh_yota]

Spray the bolt with some PB Blaster, let it sit for a few minutes, then use a 1/2" socket on a 24" breaker bar. Sometimes I'll hit it with a hammer a few times before I spray it to break the rust bond. I've never used an air-powered impact on caliper bolts because I've never done brake work at a location with air tools. I tried a DeWalt cordless 1/2" impact on caliper bolts last year when I replaced the front wheel bearings on my Tacoma but it didn't have enough power to get them loose.

 

[maxpower_hd]

I can usually get them off with a breaker bar but I have seen some with thread locker in them. Heat does the trick for those. Heat it almost red hot, cool it with a wet cloth and remove.

 

[ericcbeckett]

heat

Heat as stated above.
The bolts have an adhesive patch applied to them.
I use a propane torch to heat the bolts.
The purpose of the heat is to release the adhesive.
They come out easily once heated.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The problem I have run into is frozen/insufficient clearance slide pins to the bracket holes.

An older Ford Expedition took a lot of heat from my little propane torch before it shot out ! I used a drill and cleaned out the bore as best I could.

The other one (different vehicle) was pneumatic lock. The clearance between the pin and the bore was so close, the lube made a perfect seal and no amount of force would push that trapped air out. Wore down those pads right quick ! I will drill the next one like that.

 

[Greg85mcss]

Depending on the car & what I'm in the mood to play with either 3/8 air impact or 25" dual 80.


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[Jacobson]

The problem I have run into is frozen/insufficient clearance slide pins to the bracket holes.

The other one (different vehicle) was pneumatic lock. The clearance between the pin and the bore was so close, the lube made a perfect seal and no amount of force would push that trapped air out. Wore down those pads right quick ! I will drill the next one like that.

I ran into something similar with those slider pins.

I took out the two slide pins and re greased them. After putting them back in, they would barely move. I yanked then in and out and bunch of times, and i think air was trapped in the boot, which I released air from. The grease was also squeezed out the bore, I think. Then the pins started to slide better.

I was nervous those pins were to sticky, so I drove around the block without using brakes and touched the rotors to make sure they were still cold.

 

[bubinga]

The problem I have run into is frozen/insufficient clearance slide pins to the bracket holes.

An older Ford Expedition took a lot of heat from my little propane torch before it shot out ! I used a drill and cleaned out the bore as best I could.

The other one (different vehicle) was pneumatic lock. The clearance between the pin and the bore was so close, the lube made a perfect seal and no amount of force would push that trapped air out. Wore down those pads right quick ! I will drill the next one like that.

Yeah, olds Alero front brakes I just worked on, The pin was so frozen in place, I let it soak in a vise overnight, still wouldn't move.
had to heat the bracket red hot to free the slide pin. I removed the rubber boot before heating. Polished up the pin in the lathe, and lubed it with brake lube.

 

[anndel]

What is this rust you speak of?

You of all people should know rust, coming from the Valley of the Sun in Upstate New York

 

[WhiffySpark]

Yeah, olds Alero front brakes I just worked on, The pin was so frozen in place, I let it soak in a vise overnight, still wouldn't move.
had to heat the bracket red hot to free the slide pin. I removed the rubber boot before heating. Polished up the pin in the lathe, and lubed it with brake lube.

It's not uncommon for gm truck slider pins to not come out no matter what you do. Those people end up buying caliper brackets. I'm not spending 4 hours to save you $50 lol

 

[bubinga]

Oh no, in a shop it's different. This was my car, and I have more time than money.
Only took about a half hour.

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[paulsomlo]

I used a box end wrench.
One time I used a socket and it slipped off.
I like using a wrench since there is less offset than a socket.
Is this the right thinking?

Absolutely. And when using a socket, the shorter the handle, the worse the situation because more of your force is being directed perpendicular to the axis of the fastener, rather than into torque. The longer the handle, the better. Using a straight box end wrench (no offset) is about the best situation, shy of using an impact. I used to think that impacts were destructive to fasteners, until I really thought about it. Now, I try to use impact everywhere I can.

 

[Jacobson]

Anyone know why the two slide pins are different? One has beveled edges and one is round with a plastic end cap.

 

[gungatim]

I just use a wrench or 3/8 ratchet/socket. if they take that much work to get off, they are junk and the pins will be rusted in the sliders. in that case I take the bracket off and use the torch. at that point you're buying a new hardware kit for sure. if it's really bad, the whole thing gets trashed. new brackets are fairly cheap at the local autozone...

and I always use brake grease/anti-seize where appropriate upon reassembly so I don't have to deal with that again...

 

[ex-x-fire]

How do you guys clean up the brackets? We sand blast the critical areas.

 

[gungatim]

How do you guys clean up the brackets? We sand blast the critical areas.

I don't unless they are rusty, then just a wire wheel. maybe hit the slide with a wire brush...I don't believe in bright shiny painted brake parts that show through the wheel openings...can't stand painted calipers, but that's just my opinion...

 

[[memphis]]

How do you guys clean up the brackets? We sand blast the critical areas.

Blasting is fast but it leaves pits for rust to build back up etc.
Wire wheel is the best followed by filing OR a light polish with a roloc brown cookie.

Tech's working flat rate will never do this, instead their using grinder type rolocs and remove too much material.

I don't have air at home, I wire brush and follow up with a file to clean it up. Then I apply copper anti seize (doesn't dry out as fast as silver) to the underside of the shims. This can help minimize rust build up and lessen the chances of the pads getting pinched by the shims

PREMIUM silicone/dielectric (cheap stuff will dry out) on the top of the shims and caliper sliders for me. I also anti seize the brake saddle bolts... I can always take mine out with a 1/2" ratchet and a bar.

The things are only supposed to be like 75ft lbs on a GM truck. Freakin monkeys with impacts. Rust has little to do with it, I live in the salt belt. If they got taken off twice a year like they are supposed to it should never be that difficult.

 

[u118224]

How do you guys clean up the brackets? We sand blast the critical areas.

Sand blasting is probably the best but I don't have one. I use a needle scaler on the brackets where the clips sit. I've found that wire wheeling alone doesn't always remove the built up rust on the bracket. I too use a little silicone grease between the clips and bracket to help stop the rust.