Thanks to this forum I have collected a lot of tools over the years. I normally can do most things without needing more tools. Last Sunday i went to replace the u-joints on a Ford expedition. I haven't worked on a ford recently and was quickly reminded that they require a 12mm 12pt. I checked all of my tools and I am severely lacking in 12pt sockets. I have 1/4 inch swivels that are 12pt but obviously aren't up to this task. After looting around the garage, found an old set of 1/2 drive craftsmans that were 12pt. The problem with the c-mans, are they are so bulky, I could only loosen one bolt at a time, as it would hit the driveshaft yoke. This meant a lot of spinning the drive shaft and locking it in 4wd, etc. What do you guys normally use on these?
Tools for u-joints
- Thread starter gbfan10
- Start date
kythri
Well-known member
I bought a Snap-on 12-point 12mm impact swivel years ago for this very purpose. It's worked great for me.
bobcatdan
Well-known member
Simple way to do it is a 12 mm combo wrench double wrenched for more leverage. If yoy have problem with it turning, jam a prybay threw the yoke to hold it.
They make specific sockets for these, they are a 12mm 12pt 1/2" drive impact swivel but they have a short (3") extension built in to clear the yoke. They are worth it if you ever plan on doing it again.
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WhiffySpark
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- Oct 22, 2009
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I have the Sunex one. Works fine
BDT/NWMN
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WhiffySpark
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ken w.
Well-known member
I also have the SO 12mm 12pt impact swivel. I put a bit of heat to it before I try to take it apart.
I tried using one of my MAC 12mm wrenches and it started to bend a bit. I was using a lot of force.
sberry
Banned
I use a Sears 12 pt. How many times are you going to do this?
Ign
Well-known member
Never needed a special tool beyond a box to break it loose and a ratcheting wrench to finish it off. Wedge a large screwdriver or pry bar (the latter won't usually fit) thru the yoke to stop the d/s from spinning.
If the fasteners are as stubborn as you describe, presoak w penetrant and yes, you may have to lock/unlock the t-case or trans.
You almost always have to get your bolt on the bottom so it'll come out without hitting the d/s so no tool is going to prevent that.
If the fasteners are as stubborn as you describe, presoak w penetrant and yes, you may have to lock/unlock the t-case or trans.
You almost always have to get your bolt on the bottom so it'll come out without hitting the d/s so no tool is going to prevent that.
geartow
Well-known member
put heat on the drive shaft bolts you only need a little a propane torch is plenty . I use a 12mm 12point 3/8 drive socket on a 4 inch 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor on a dewalt 18 volt impact . I drive hd tow truck for a living and remove 3 to 6 drive shafts a day
crf450x
Well-known member
I usually use a long 0° offset wrench because sometimes no socket arrangement will fit. I have had to put a floor jack under the wrench a couple times.
Al Borland
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- Jan 20, 2016
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My old 2002 F150 needed u-joints and I couldn't get the rear flange down, so I took it to a friend's garage. They pressed the caps out and changed the u-joints with the shaft in place. Never took the flange off or the shaft down. They do them that way all the time.
Rust belt truck issues and ROYAL PITA if a bolt breaks off in the flange.
Won't work on the old strap-type or U-bolt flanges, but simple on the modern companion flange ones.
Rust belt truck issues and ROYAL PITA if a bolt breaks off in the flange.
Won't work on the old strap-type or U-bolt flanges, but simple on the modern companion flange ones.