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Tools for working with Leather

MisterEd

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Cordwainers hammer used in the making and repairing of shoes. In Old England these tasks were done by cordwainers (making) and cobblers (repairing) and were not interchangeable, apparently. It’s obviously been used a bit.
 

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MisterEd

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Also for making shoes, R. Timmins & Sons Lasting Pliers and Steel Hammer #1, 19th Century. Can’t pull nails anymore, but otherwise the tool is in fully functional condition.
 

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MisterEd

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H.G. Gomph #7 Over Stitch
Henry Gomph - was a tool maker in Albany NY. The company was established in 1866 and went until approximately 1924. The Rowel is still extremely sharp and spins easily.
 

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Oregon rock crusher

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H.G. Gomph #7 Over Stitch
Henry Gomph - was a tool maker in Albany NY. The company was established in 1866 and went until approximately 1924. The Rowel is still extremely sharp and spins easily.
Here is another example of a Gomph tool. This one a No. 125 edge channeler. I think it has some kind of blade that clamps in. Has a nice rosewood handle and brass ferrule like most Gomph tools. Took me a little while to figure this one out as the G looked like a C to me. Last pic expands to the catalog cut. Ed.
 

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MisterEd

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Detheridge & Sons #3 Lasting Plier and Hammer
 

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RTM

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Yup, that is almost exactly what I am looking at. I have a quick release cam clamp for opening it, the wood uprights laid out, just need to get a roundtoit to finish it.
 

2oolhound

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Here are some tools I recently made from an old 12" circular saw blade. After needing to build up a mallet handle with leather and reviewing the leather working process on you tube I decided I needed some round knives. My first one was too big and it was patterned by memory from the you tube video. After realizing my scale was off I made the 4" one on the left and I also made the small one. The knife on the right was made from the final left over scrap from the saw bade just for something to do. The handles are yew wood.

RoundKnivesSm_9223.jpg

Next I made these skivers used for thinning the leather by shaving the inner side thickness down. Sorry for the blue tint but I guess I didn't white balance the camera. These 3 skivers and the round knives used all of the material of the saw blade. The handles are made from gary oak, a narly stunted type of oak tree but still nice hard wood regardless. I finished the handles with blo and also coated the steel blades with it so they wouldn't rust before I did the final sharpen, polish and fit them with sheaths so that is why you can see the blo stains on them.

Skivers_9232Sm.jpg
 

2oolhound

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Here is a fixed groove cutter made by Fox & Sons. It is crudely stamped 5/16.

Along side it is an older sewing awl which I bought at a marine flea market. It would have been used for sail making I think.

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I thought this next one was for threading leather laces through holes in leather when I came across it at the flea market but some research revealed it's a rug makers tool. You can lay your lace into the hollow in the tip (from the back) and close it up, then force the tool's tip through the work, release, then grab the lace from the other side and pull it through. I'll try to use it doing leather work eventually.

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banjopete

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I dig all these vintage tools. My wife's getting into leatherworking, and I thought of trying to find her some good used tools. Are there any specific vintage makers that are worth hunting out? or are the hand tools basic enough that it doesn't matter all that much?
 

2oolhound

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I dig all these vintage tools. My wife's getting into leatherworking, and I thought of trying to find her some good used tools. Are there any specific vintage makers that are worth hunting out? or are the hand tools basic enough that it doesn't matter all that much?

Pete, I can't tell you brand names because I'm new too. When I set out to make the skivers and round knives above it was to pursue a hobby (making tools) and to get some leather working tools that I wanted to use for leather projects. When I discussed my venture with a friend I was told the saw blade was too thick and I needed thin blades like 1/16" thick or less. By this time I'd progressed enough to know my saw blade 1/8" blades were awesome. Since then I found these 2 round knives at the swap meet and bought them just because. The small one is one of the lighter variety and the lower one on the left is like my saw blade in thickness. Both tools seem to be older but the thin one is not that old I don't think and would resemble the new ones my friend had seen for sale currently.

RoundKnivesSm_9233.jpg

My friend had seen the thin style being sold in a reputable tool shop and I guess deemed them to be the way to go but from my experience the heavier ones feel better in your hand and are the ones you have to be careful with when handling them because they are extremely sharp and cut you or shave your skin easily.

Either new or old you should handle the tools carefully and choose what feels to you to be well made and not some mass produced tool designed to make a quick profit from by the manufacturer. It does matter, you need to be careful and buy quality tools.
 

RTM

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Almost Anything by Osborne will be high quality. Wm Johnson was a company that was acquired by Osborne very early. I also buy any Dexter or Hyde vintage knife I can find, usually very thin, and hold an edge well, but sharpen fairly easily

I think for things like the head knives, thickness doesn't matter as much, as you are usually parting something off. My Osborne is 0.055" at the back.

For things like a skivving knife, used for splitting a layer of leather, thin is your friend, and scary sharp is a requirement. My buddy who does high end book binding has tools that I am afraid to look at they are so sharp. He can Skiv leather pieces with no effort and no error. He tells me ways to improve my work, but most are above my patience to learn right now.

Craftool is the modern seller of all things leather working, and I don't think the quality is there on some of it, so prefer the vintage stuff. Stamps and other decorative things, they are almost the only game in town.

I am just a hack when working with leather (edge tool covers, hatchet covers, etc), but trying to free up some time to actually practice stitching instead of just riveting things together.

This is a guy that seems to have lots of good stuff, and knows how to use it. No affiliation, only know him online.
 

Mintgrun

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Oct 7, 2015
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Kingston, Wa.
R. Timmins & Sons Lasting Pliers and Steel Hammer #1
I think that looks more like a number 4 than a 1.

1669349429415.png

Plus, they are a bit larger than this number 2 pair that I have. These don't have the puller cut into the handle end.

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These are also stamped ENGLAI D. It looks like the last half of the N stamp was missing.

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I like how the teeth mesh together.



I shared this lace cutter in a "name this tool" thread, but it was off topic there, so I'm adding it to this one where it fits a bit better. @RTM shared this catalog in the other thread and I ran across the tool, while scrolling through the pages.


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I like how organic the shape of the casting is. It really fits nicely into your hand. Maybe I'll snap another photo tomorrow to show that.

I just scrolled a little farther through that catalog and found that I also have tool #460 on page 17. I'll share photos of that one too.

Tom
 
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RTM

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.

I just scrolled a little farther through that catalog and found that I also have tool #460 on page 17. I'll share photos of that one too.

Tom
Those are great knives. You can still get blades through Osborne or Hyde, forget which, but you may have to open up the collet to make them fit right. I have some with old blades, and found some with no blade, do I bought an assortment.
 
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Mintgrun

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The knife I have is a saw now.

1669426020217.jpeg

I don't remember if the blade was in it when I got it, or if I found it separately and installed it. I know I at least made it fit better. It's such a tight grip now, that I decided not to take it all the way apart for photos.

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Here are a few more leather working tools. I bought the two tools in the middle row at Tandy Leather in Davenport, Iowa back around 1980 to lay out and punch the stitches for knife sheathes. I remember putting a magazine down on the kitchen table to back up the leather and protect the table and then finding that it wasn't thick enough, as I'd punched rows of holes into the oak. My mother was very understanding.


1669426377608.jpeg
The catalog calls the bottom tool a "common edge tool" and the "peg awl haft" on top has leather washers on the end like a chisel. The Osborne catalog lists them with or without the washers and they came with a little wrench for the collet.


Scrolling further down the pages I came across other tools I have in the shop, so I'll snap photos of those tools too. This is a fun thread. Leather working tools are cool.

Here are some hand-held photos of the lace cutter.

1669427471880.jpeg

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RTM

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Cordwainers hammer used in the making and repairing of shoes. In Old England these tasks were done by cordwainers (making) and cobblers (repairing) and were not interchangeable, apparently. It’s obviously been used a bit.

Silly thoughts here: I google "cordwainers' hammer", and of course the first google result was this thread [Surprise! (not)] The answer is always on GJ if it even kinda sounds like a tool

OK, not a topic I am well versed in, but I'll ask anyway: how do you know this is a "cordwainers' hammer" vs a "cobbler's hammer?" Reviewing a piece of technical writing by a professional in the field, and he describes it a bit differently "knurled face" for one.

I was expecting so see something more like this for the knurled face

Does yours have a knurled face?

Still digging, kinda curious.
 
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MisterEd

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Looks like something that belongs here. Spacing Wheel?
 

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ZRX61

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The guy who did my new ZRX11 & ZX11 seats does leather work:

 
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MisterEd

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Checking out the # of holes it makes per inch might tell.
10 holes per inch. 25 points on the wheel.

Seems to work as designed and the Pressure Point on the shaft is comfortable.

Was found in a German antique shop's going out of business "collection" headed for recycling. It's too appealing to not add to the accumulation on that table over there. You know how that is.
 
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RTM

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At that PPI, could go either way, pounce or thread punch marking wheel.

Pretty fine stitching, way beyond my skill level, but that doesn't mean much.
 
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MisterEd

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For Bunion and Corn relief; a New Ball & Ring stretching device.
 

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four.cycle

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^ nice piece. you've got quite an interesting collection of leather gizmos.

Passmore / Charles Lewis Passmore, Prophetsville, IL / "New Ball & Ring" shoe stretching device / patent 1244638 Oct 30 1917 C.L. Passmore / manufacturer unknown /

as with adjustable wrenches and mouse traps, there was always some entrepreneur trying to build a better one... :)
 
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MisterEd

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I sometimes remake antique bicycle leather saddles, I am a hacker, but it is a fun process
Have a well-used Brooks B-17 on my '86 Schwinn High Sierra and a B-17 revived by my Friendly Neighborhood Bicycle Shop on the '11 Novara Safari. Remaking old leather saddles seems like the right thing to do.
 

Eric Brown

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The following seven pictures show different lasting pinchers (pliers). The first group is from R. Timmins & Sons of London and there are the sizes of #5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 0, and 000. Timmons was bought out by Wynn & Co. about 1887. The #4 is a WYNN. Second picture is a Ullathorne & Co., also of London. Similar to the Timmins but the handles aren't arched as much. Third picture is an Alfred Clark patent 113261 (Apr 4, 1871). Phil. PA. Similar to the Timmins but the hammer part is a separate feature and has a textured face. Picture four is a Danial Witt patent 129301 (July 15, 1872), Hubbardston MA. Only marked with patent date. Adjustable leverage point. Picture five shows two John Knell patent 379476 (Mar. 13, 1888) Phil. PA. The one to the left is unmarked but follows the patent with removable hammer head. The right one is marked on the handle with "KNELL" but has an integral hammer head. Picture six is marked "USM" for United Shoe Machinery. By the 1930's they had consolidated most the shoe making equipment machine supply, including hand tools. Picture seven shows two unknown pliers. They have and adjustable leverage point. One is marked "Patent" but no other markings. The other one is not marked at all.
 

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Private Lugnutz

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Picture six is marked "USM" for United Show Machinery. By the 1930's they had consolidated most the shoe making equipment machine supply, including hand tools.
Interesting. I dont think I've ever seen any tool from "the Shoe" that didn't have the classic and trademarked script USMC logo. BTW, we have a thread just for USMC tools, history, info, etc, if you're interested...
 

Eric Brown

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Interesting. I dont think I've ever seen any tool from "the Shoe" that didn't have the classic and trademarked script USMC logo. BTW, we have a thread just for USMC tools, history, info, etc, if you're interested...
Thanks. Corrected the shoe.
 
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MisterEd

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These look like Leather Working tools, but are they?
 

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Eric Brown

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These look like Leather Working tools, but are they?
No. They are for cutting checkered grips on guns (as one example). the two rows are used to do the cut and also follow in a previous cut. That keeps the lines parallel. Nice find.
 
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