garfieldzzz
Well-known member
Cejn e-Safe 320 series
410 series for high flow
410 series for high flow
Tools from the old world
- Thread starter Monte
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Dave455
Well-known member
I’ve never used anything other than PCL and have had zero issues. They’re not costly either.
I use the “Vertex” in my workshop, but all the couplings of that style are compatible. Some of the older couplings are maybe 40 years old and have been dropped regularly but they still work. Unlike a lot of products, the quality of the modern ones seems to be just as good as the older ones.
You’re probably fine with these at 1/2 inch, but they make other couplings that offer greater flow if you need it.
The 100 series are much heftier and tend to be used in industrial settings. They’re probably overkill for most uses, but if you want the best, with the highest flow, it’s probably these!
Worth a look at the website
www.pclairtechnology.com
Vertex and 100 series shown.
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Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Nice example, kiraj. Thanks for showing it.
I'm assuming the "31" is a standardized model number for this type of ratchet wrench, since it appears on my Dowidat and your Walter. Correct? Do you or dutchgray or anyone else know if Dowidat or Walter or any other mfgr made a true ratchet like this? Meaning, not in multiple sizes, with multiple OAL's, and with multiple hex or square service opening sizes, but a single length and with a male 1/2-inch square drive stud, for turning multiple detachable sockets of various sizes.
I'm assuming the "31" is a standardized model number for this type of ratchet wrench, since it appears on my Dowidat and your Walter. Correct? Do you or dutchgray or anyone else know if Dowidat or Walter or any other mfgr made a true ratchet like this? Meaning, not in multiple sizes, with multiple OAL's, and with multiple hex or square service opening sizes, but a single length and with a male 1/2-inch square drive stud, for turning multiple detachable sockets of various sizes.
Jack84
Well-known member
Jack84
Well-known member
Had to share this.
Gedore made a 1/2 male I think.
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Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Extremely jealous.
Had to share this.
Thanks. Good to know.
When were these made?
Cool!
That would probably be an older set you have seen then. Now I think Knipex only uses Wera drivers or their own (made by Oplast in Slovenia).
Interesting! They seem to lack the "three point"-grip that the Knipex ones has though, that's very nice. But the optional spring of Bahcos are nice. I wonder why Knipex only has the 145mm size, there sure is demand for at least one size up.
I recently added this rarity to my collection:
A CPG / Knipex pair of pliers. Should be made before 1942 since that's when they changed over fully to the Knipex name.
Also an unrelated little nice detail, these old Bahco handles with embossed logo.
Two pruners and two slip joint pliers.
Cynical huckster
Well-known member
It depends on the material you are going to drill. If it is martensitic or ferritic stainless steel, you can't go wrong with Izar 1016. If we're talking about construction or carbon steel, Izar 1010 and Izar 1013 are the way to go. All products from Izar industrial catalogue are made in Spain, in their own production facilities.
Dave455
Well-known member
Yes!
My local supplier keeps these, among others, and they’re great!
My supplier is
www.drill-service.co.uk
and they have some Izar drill sets on their website.
I pretty much use their Cobalt ones as my “go to” now, though any brand that I get from Drill Service seems to be very decent, even if it’s one I’ve never heard of! I’ve used the Izar 1010 (TiN coated) for drilling smaller holes in cast steel and they’ve been great too!
The secret, as always, is to get the right drill for the job. If I’m drilling anything slightly specialised I tend to just tell Drill Service what I want to do and whatever they supply works.
They’ve supplied me all sorts of custom ground drills over the years too, including things like step drills that enable me to drill a tapping hole and clearance hole at the same time!
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Thanks.
1013 Speedpoint are reasonably priced in a small set on Amazon, will give them a try.
Drill Service is a little overwhelming.
I bought a t-handle nut driver to see if they are any good. Mostly just because I like trying different tools, but it turns out they are fast and sort of fun to use in the right situations.
This vid may seam a little remedial to seasoned tool users, but for anyone who hasn't tried a t-handle, I want to share my newly acquired enthusiasm.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Tew_5yedHGs" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
This vid may seam a little remedial to seasoned tool users, but for anyone who hasn't tried a t-handle, I want to share my newly acquired enthusiasm.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Tew_5yedHGs" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I bought a t-handle nut driver to see if they are any good. Mostly just because I like trying different tools, but it turns out they are fast and sort of fun to use in the right situations.
This vid may seam a little remedial to seasoned tool users, but for anyone who hasn't tried a t-handle, I want to share my newly acquired enthusiasm.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Tew_5yedHGs" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
You’ve got to get some Ko-Ken quick spinners for your ratchet if you don’t have any? Come in lots of diff male/female combos, too. Makes a massive difference when there’s no friction on the fastener. All my ratchets have them on now.
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Thanks. I have a Ko-ken 1/4" spinner and like using it when you can only get one hand onto a fastener, but I also like quick release ratchets for one handed socket swapping. Gain one function, loose another.
Some new blue tools.
No COO on either of the Hazet tools or packaging. KC tool has both listed as 'Slovenia,' so assuming Oplast again. 'Austria' on the Gedore pliers.
I plan to use the bit driver with magnetic nut setters. There is quite a bit of wobble when using power bits compared to other bit holders. Non-power bits fit nice and tight. Would have been nice if bits could be pushed in without having to pull on the collar.
Gerdore circlip pliers.
Tried out the 3mm hex/allen Hazet t-handle. With such a thin hexagonal shaft, I find it hard to spin in my fingers and overall a bit awkward to use, not fun like the larger t-handle bit drivers. Think I will stick to screwdriver type for hex. Much prefer t-handle to L keys though.
measuredtwice
Well-known member
Thanks. I have a Ko-ken 1/4" spinner and like using it when you can only get one hand onto a fastener, but I also like quick release ratchets for one handed socket swapping. Gain one function, loose another.
FPC Flash Tool (Japan) makes a quick release spinner in 3/8 ...but I don't know off hand if they make a 1/4. I don't own anything from the brand --just something I've seen online.
Model # SD-3L
Anybody that can help me with a vise identification?
The reason I'm asking is because it looks to be forged. Considering the weld line inside the main body and there's a weld line in the moving jaw also. And it doesn't look line repairs, since they're totally straight.
The reason I'm asking is because it looks to be forged. Considering the weld line inside the main body and there's a weld line in the moving jaw also. And it doesn't look line repairs, since they're totally straight.
Hazet does have this other bit handle.Thanks. I have a Ko-ken 1/4" spinner and like using it when you can only get one hand onto a fastener, but I also like quick release ratchets for one handed socket swapping. Gain one function, loose another.
Some new blue tools.
No COO on either of the Hazet tools or packaging. KC tool has both listed as 'Slovenia,' so assuming Oplast again. 'Austria' on the Gedore pliers.
I plan to use the bit driver with magnetic nut setters. There is quite a bit of wobble when using power bits compared to other bit holders. Non-power bits fit nice and tight. Would have been nice if bits could be pushed in without having to pull on the collar.
Gerdore circlip pliers.
Tried out the 3mm hex/allen Hazet t-handle. With such a thin hexagonal shaft, I find it hard to spin in my fingers and overall a bit awkward to use, not fun like the larger t-handle bit drivers. Think I will stick to screwdriver type for hex. Much prefer t-handle to L keys though.
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"Peddinghaus Record" maybe.
Thank you! It didn't match with what was still readable from the printing, but it's probably a Peddinghaus Superior.
Now just to grind off the welds and clean it up!
Cynical huckster
Well-known member
Izar end mills for aluminum, from 3,0 to 10,0 mm. Made in Spain.
And here is the promotional video.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Z3RTU7GZeJA" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
And here is the promotional video.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Z3RTU7GZeJA" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Cynical huckster
Well-known member
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I'm not Familiar with FPC flash tool either. Interesting looking spinner. Cannot decide if it would be awesome or annoying to use.
Thank you. So far I like a shorter driver to use with nut setters. Gets a bit too long with a standard length bit handle.
I'm finding that using a manual handle with magnetic setters is working well for recessed dashboard screws.
Couple of new nut setters. A search on here shows that it's been discussed before, but I was surprised to see that the Milwaukee is made in Italy. RS Components lists the Facom as made in France. I assumed all impact bits were China/Taiwan.
Dave455
Well-known member
Sorry to tell you this, but they’re shite! I don’t know how they managed it, but they managed to make the steel so soft the smaller sizes bend, but at the same time so hard the edges chip. I’ve found bent ones out of the box, and if everything does come together you have a drill that blunts quickly, cuts badly, and breaks at the slightest.
The old Dormer, British made, were absolutely superb, but they’re still trading off the reputation.
When they introduced this Brazilian rubbish I couldn’t believe how bad they were and complained to the rep. He started trying to sell me better grades, but I pointed out that the British made HSS worked just fine (and I could sharpen them in house), and that’s what I wanted. I never saw him again.
If you want really decent drills, go for Presto (U.K.) Guhring (Germany) any of the older British made stuff or absolutely anything sold by Drill Service in Horley (Website previously linked)
For mid range try Ruko. I use these a fair bit on jobs that don’t need top end drills and they work fine. Prices are very reasonable for what you get.
If you want cheap, try the Reisser drill sets. They’re not top end, made in Taiwan, but very inexpensive, and work very well for the price. They’re certainly fine for woodworking, although I recently tried putting one through some 1/4 mild and it did o.k.
Edit - here you go. Presto Imperial Cobalt (lovely), Guhring Metric HSS (ditto), Ruko Metric HSS, and Reisser HSS Ground. The latter do probably 85% of my woodworking needs and that pack was less than £8.
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Are they bad compared to expensive bits or just bad? The Ebay seller misspelt 'Dormer' and 'drill' in the title, so they were an impulse buy at £18 + £5 post. Worth keeping or sell on? They are unused.
Was going to try these, but bought the Dormer set on impulse because of the price.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JPK78KG/?tag=atomicindustr-21
Was going to try these, but bought the Dormer set on impulse because of the price.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JPK78KG/?tag=atomicindustr-21
Cynical huckster
Well-known member
As far as I know, until recently, Ruko did not have his own drill bits production. Their drill bits were made in China, but few years ago they bought a factory in the Czech Republic.
According to my customers feedback, Izar drill bits have much better performance than Ruko. Unfortunately I can't recommend you a distributor in UK.
Dave455
Well-known member
I’ve found them to be bad - full stop! If you’re just drilling softwood they will work, but they’re not good.
The Izar are top end in my experience! Those drills you linked are called “speed point” however. Don’t know what those are and they may be a cheaper range. Buy from a reputable dealer and you’ll get the proper drills, probably for less money!
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Dave455
Well-known member
Makes sense.
I used some of their stuff years back and they were obviously not Guhring grade. I thought they were better than Chinese though. Most Chinese stuff has a certain “feel” and Ruko didn’t have that. They were half decent.
The stuff from the last few years is quite good, but I've always considered Ruko to be “mid grade” hence my comment above. I’ve used their countersinks for some years for woodworking though, and they’re excellent for that, even when working with laminates.
Yes, Izar are better. Up there with the Presto and Guhring. Many sources in the U.K. but I use Drill Service in Horley. I’m local, but they have a good online presence!
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Quick vise renovation:
Heuer Front from 1964
Looks very nice. I think, if I had my own workshop, I would develop a bit of a vice obsession.
dkroth
Well-known member
That's a weak excuse!
I've got two vises on the kitchen table right now as I'm typing this.
.
Dave455
Well-known member
huh?
In magnetism terms, objects that can deflect a magnetic field are divided into “hard iron” and “soft iron”.
“Hard iron” retains a magnetic effect after a magnetic field has been removed, “soft iron” does not, it simply deflects an existing field.
I suspect that these “anti magnetic” tweezers are effectively either “soft iron”, meaning they modify but don’t retain an existing field, or don’t even modify a field at all. That would be the critical thing when handling components.
In my world, a “non magnetic” tool (as distinct from an “anti magnetic” one) would contain no iron at all. A phosphor bronze screwdriver would be “non magnetic”!
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Jack84
Well-known member
This counts as a tool I think.
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