Tools needed for diesel, AG, and H.E. Techs

[ed_v]

What are some of the must have tools for getting into diesel, AG, and heavy equipment repair? I'm really interested in getting into the AG field. Lots of tractors in these parts of where I live.

Here is my list of what I have so far:

1/4, 3/8", and 1/2" SAE and metric socket sets and ratchets
3/8" and 1/2" SAE and metric impact sockets and impact guns
full sets of screwdrivers, torx bits, pliers, ring pliers, vise grips, etc.
3/8" and 1/2" torque wrenches
SAE and metric combo and ratcheting wrench sets
cordless drills and impact drivers
air ratchets, grinders, die grinders, cut off tools, hammers
pry bars
snap-on bushing driver set
snap-on puller set
sanp-on screw extractor set
Tap and die set
Thread restoring set
multimeter
AC Manifold gauge set
infrared thermometer
..... and a few more things I'm probably forgetting.

So do you guys have anything to add that you use on a regular basis?

Thanks,
Ed

 

[ibedayank]

3/4 drive and maybe 1inch drive lots of LARGE bolts/nuts

 

[bobcatdan]

I'd hold off on 3/4" tools until you feel you really need them. Most shops supply that stuff and you don't really use it a lot. I'd start with angle wrenches and 1/2" crowfoot wrenches. These are very handy for hydraulic lines and hoses. 1/2" Allen sockets. Metric wrenches to 32mm and SAE up to 1 1/2" for starters.

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

I had a lot less than the OP's list packed into a little 2 drawer CM Rally box. Just the basic hard line hand tools. I had to order a hand full of items right away and spent a few hundred bucks on some HF large wrenches and then started acquiring stuff as needed from there.

 

[Farmall 1066]

A good Fluke meter, good test leads, and lots of electrical stuff, specialty crimper and connection tools. Butane soldering iron.
If you're working on modern stuff, 90% of what you do will be chasing intermittent electrical ghosts.

Also, a Mico Quadragauge for hydraulic testing, if not shop supplied.

 

[crewchief888]

I'd hold off on 3/4" tools until you feel you really need them. Most shops supply that stuff and you don't really use it a lot. I'd start with angle wrenches and 1/2" crowfoot wrenches. These are very handy for hydraulic lines and hoses. 1/2" Allen sockets. Metric wrenches to 32mm and SAE up to 1 1/2" for starters.

+1 on angle wrenches, and crowsfeet.

depending on what you're working on

line sockets
crowsfoot flarenut
BFH

my personal preference for crowsfeet is in 3/8" dr, they are MUCH smaller than a 1/2" dr of the same size.

my advise is to buy angle wrenches and crowsfeet & 3/4" dr stuff "as needed", your wallet will be a LOT happier.
i'm still using a set of large CHINESE combo wreches (1 3/8"-2") i bought over 20 years ago.

 

[bobcatdan]

I will edit myself and say 3/8" and 1/2" Crowfeet, both have their place. I actually have 3/8" crowfoot wrenches up 2".

 

[just a noob]

A good multimeter and leads.

 

[Ruger_556]

Engineer's hammer, I use a 6-lb but some like 8's instead

Angle wrenches (Snap On is best in this case)

Adjustable wrenches (Not cheapo, IE: Proto, Snap On, or Bahco). Automotive guys will preach until the grave how they should never be used, trust me, you will need them.

3/4 drive is usually shop supplied but most guys buy their own eventually. Everything else I would wait to buy... You'll figure out in the first week or two what you actually need. If you can't already use an oxy torch or weld better learn

 

[ed_v]

Great responses. Thanks for all your input.

Ed

 

[RedneckWelder]

Heavy line construction equipment guy here.

Life ***** when you have to break out the 3/4 stuff but it is a necessary evil

A strong 1/2 impact will be your go-to most of the time, so you should definitely invest in a quality one and some sockets to go with it.

You'll also want some long *** handle ratchets, and some with flex heads. The 24" long handled Matcos with the locking flex head are the ****. Also the 40" 1" drive breaker bar from Titan...get it.

Wrenches- good ones. This is the place where spending the money on Snap On or Wright will make the difference for sure. Get the flank drive ones. Get some long ones. Get some standard length combos.

 

[jmm]

I don't think I know anyone who uses an air ratchet regularly. Knock that off your list and get a good 3/8" electric impact. If you find a use for an air ratchet down the road, drop some serious money on an impact ratchet, it'll blow you away. If you're going into the field as an entry level tech, make sure you have a good range of service tools (filter wrenches, tire tools, etc). Make sure you get LONG ratchets. I own 1 standard length ratchet that I actually use (an F80)...all the others are extra long. Good prybars are a must. If you're on a budget, HF makes a decent pry bar. If not, Mayhew makes a really nice one. Large wrenches do NOT need to be high end. Ever seen a broken 1 5/8" wrench? Me neither.

Specialty tools...besides a basic set of 3/4" stuff (to 1 1/2" and 36 mm), don't worry about getting AC gauges, bushing drivers, infrared thermometers, etc. At least not right away. Most decent shops have these for you to use.

If you want to make good money for any extended period, steer away from doing heavy chassis work and learn electricity. A good diagnostic guy makes just as much as a good chassis guy, but you won't wear your body out doing it. Interested? Buy a nice meter, and I'd really suggest a Loadpro. It's my new favorite tool.

Good luck. There's a lot of really knowledgeable guys here to help if need be. I made the switch from the industrial side to diesel not long ago. With some common sense and a knack for the work, it's really easy.

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

I agree with JMM ^. I have great air ratchet that gets used about once a year when I have a component rebuild with 96 3/8" bolts to take out and put back in -- for most day to day stuff cordless electric is soooo much easier / less hassle.

On the big wrench issue: I bought the big HF cheapo wrenches when I started out. I can tell you I broke 3 of them around 2" sized on one job using only my own hands / weight -- some of them are really junky....not to mention I nearly fell off the side of the machine when one snapped...... After so many years in the shop, all those HF wrenches are gone or cut up to weld to a chunk of steel to make special tools out of. I now use a couple of large good quality adjustable wrenches on 99% of stuff over 1 1/2" where a big socket won't work.

Another plus for bug adjustable -- lot of odd sized things in hydraulics - cast fittings with no actual hex designed to grab with a wrench and I try hard to avoid using pipe wrenches, though some stuff has no choice.


And to add to the electrical issue / echo what others have said -- learn it, don't be scared of it. I run a shop as lead tech and service manager at the same time for an equipment dealer and I can tell you that fully half of the questions I answer for our customers mechanics are electrical -- it amazes me number of guys out there getting paid to work on stuff who cannot, will not, read a wiring diagram and therefore cannot get a simple 12 volt circuit figured out....give them a malfunctioning electrically controlled hydraulic function with some safety / limit switches thrown in and the machine is down for a long time....Take the time to get diagrams and study / understand the components involved and test them / the wiring and you won't have this problem.

 

[jmm]

On the big wrench issue: I bought the big HF cheapo wrenches when I started out. I can tell you I broke 3 of them around 2" sized on one job using only my own hands / weight -- some of them are really junky....not to mention I nearly fell off the side of the machine when one snapped...... After so many years in the shop, all those HF wrenches are gone or cut up to weld to a chunk of steel to make special tools out of. I now use a couple of large good quality adjustable wrenches on 99% of stuff over 1 1/2" where a big socket won't work.

I guess I have to throw my big wrench anecdote out the window now. Probably ought never to have thrown it around in the first place, since only a few of mine are imports (Taiwanese Stanleys, maybe a little nicer than HF wrenches).

 

[Dirty Diesels]

Don't forget a good punch & chisel set, A diesel compression testing kit & a micrometer.

 

[RedneckWelder]

I don't think I know anyone who uses an air ratchet regularly

Word. I don't even have one at work, the 3/8 impacts (especially like the Milwaukee Fuel 3/8 one) have pretty much eliminated the ratchets for us.

Also, I strongly advise hunting flea markets and garage sales for bargains. I got a beautiful set of Wright brand large size wrenches that would have cost me nearly two grand if I brought new for only $350. Much better than the HF junk.

You'll also want some good extractors to go along with your tap and dies

So I take it by your list you mean you already have all that stuff, which should cover you for the basics. I'd take that stuff and see what the shop supplies.

 

[ed_v]

Word. I don't even have one at work, the 3/8 impacts (especially like the Milwaukee Fuel 3/8 one) have pretty much eliminated the ratchets for us.

Also, I strongly advise hunting flea markets and garage sales for bargains. I got a beautiful set of Wright brand large size wrenches that would have cost me nearly two grand if I brought new for only $350. Much better than the HF junk.

You'll also want some good extractors to go along with your tap and dies

So I take it by your list you mean you already have all that stuff, which should cover you for the basics. I'd take that stuff and see what the shop supplies.

Yeah, everything I have on that list is stuff I already own. I do have a Snap-On extractor set as well as punch and chisel set (as someone else mentioned).

The mentioning of a diesel compression tester was a good one. That I do need.

 

[Jake79]

What they said and one of these
http://www.tooltopia.com/mayhew-too...se&utm_campaign=sc&scpid=40&scid=scsho6820473

 

[littletoes]

Do the big shops supply chain lever hoists/chain comealong's??? Sometimes.....

 

[bobcatdan]

Do the big shops supply chain lever hoists/chain comealong's??? Sometimes.....

Everywhere I have worked has supplied all lifting equipment. I do have a little 1/4 ton come a long which is hand for stuff. I also have a couple of short chains of my own. I have one about 6' long with removable hooks. Then I have a couple of short chains for different exact task like pulling engines or other components. I always save everything I used to lift something so I have everything handy the next time I do the same thing.

 

[littletoes]

Carry two 1/4 ton's in the truck, and used both of them yesterday to pick a big fan that ate one of two bearings-so we replaced 'em both!

 

[idahochevy]

I know i use my 3/4 torque wrench all the time. The shop has one, but it seems like it is being used a lot of the time. I don't really trust the calibation on the shop's either with the way some of the other mechanics handle it.

 

[RedneckWelder]

Do the big shops supply chain lever hoists/chain comealong's??? Sometimes.....

My employer supplies all rigging and lifting devices.

And I look at it as that's an definite liability issue. I'll use the shops stuff (it's quality and is certified, and gets rechecked on a regular basis) so that if it breaks and god forbid, hurts or kills somebody, a lot of the scrutiny will be on the shop.

That said, I do like one of the little 1/4 ton ones from HF or where for chaining down stuff to tables while you break loose bolts (such as on hydraulic cylinders) or for chaining stuff to the forklift forks to lift it up into place (one of the little comealongs was great for holding a hydraulic pump to the forks while we put it in an old Prentice loader.

You'll also want to acquire some lifting links from work to keep in your box for rigging components.

What they said and one of these
http://www.tooltopia.com/mayhew-tool...d=scsho6820473

Yep, you need the big *** prybar in this job.

 

[Ruger_556]

Yep, you need the big *** prybar in this job.

Yes, yes you do I had two guys with 6 ft spud bars, chain come along, and the 3 ton hoist trying to get an axle in place under a truck today. It wasn't cooperating...

Our big bars and sledges are shop supplied though.

 

[bigfunwmu]

A digital camera to take before and after pics, also helps you reconnect everything where it goes when it is time to put those 24 lines back on the hydraulic manifold you had to take out.

A Power Probe to go with your multimeter. Seems everything is electronic anymore, PP3 works extremely well for chasing down and checking out components without having to have the machine running.

A collection of small magnetic parts trays. You will be removing lots of guards and access covers, it is handy to put the bolts that go with each cover in a tray stuck to that cover for later reinstall. Also works for other components that have to come out. The little $2 ones at HF are great for this.

Last thing would be a set of long hooks/picks, like radiator hose hooks. You will have the opportunity to clean all kinds of stuff out of a machine when it comes in to be fixed, sometimes its much easier to dig stuff out with a big metal hook than your hands. We had a Prentice Hydroaxe in last week, lots of tightly packed wood chips and sticks had to be cleaned out of a couple cavities behind access panels. Blowing it out with air would have been a giant disaster.

 

[Matt Irvine]

Something I found invaluable when playing in a John Deere dealership was multitudes of different coloured cable ties and paint pens, great for ease of remembering where each hose came from in a hydraulic block

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

Yep, you need the big *** prybar in this job.

x3 -- that was probably the first thing I bought once I got the job as newbie was a 3 foot prybar.

 

[littletoes]

Something I found invaluable when playing in a John Deere dealership was multitudes of different coloured cable ties and paint pens, great for ease of remembering where each hose came from in a hydraulic block

Different colored rolls of "phase" tape works too, and doesn't cost what cable ties do.

 

[ed_v]

Its good to see the suggestions on all the little stuff that gets overlooked that makes your day go easier. Thanks.

I have another question. Up to what sizes should I have sockets and impacts up to?

Thanks again. You guys are great!!!

Ed

 

[ladrones]

A good set of these will make your life easier.

Also you will need some good o-ring seal kits and electrical kits. You can stock up on that stuff as you go.

I would get a good 3/4 impact and some impact sockets to start if your gonna work on larger equipment.

 

[littletoes]

Not all o-rings are created equal! The standard "black" are epdm, and not made for emersion in gas/diesel. Use a viton (brown). There are just so many different types..whew!

 

[bobcatdan]

Its good to see the suggestions on all the little stuff that gets overlooked that makes your day go easier. Thanks.

I have another question. Up to what sizes should I have sockets and impacts up to?

Thanks again. You guys are great!!!

Ed

1 1/2" is a good point to stop. You don't use much bigger very often and when you do, normally the shop has it. One other thing I thought of, sounds like you are a nubbie to this, if so you will probably start out doing lawn and garden if you go to an ag dealer. From there you will work up to a general service until you find out what equipment you like to work on. Anyways, you are going to grease a lot of ****, get a cordless grease gun.

 

[86k10]

A good set of these will make your life easier.

Also you will need some good o-ring seal kits and electrical kits. You can stock up on that stuff as you go.

I would get a good 3/4 impact and some impact sockets to start if your gonna work on larger equipment.

What brand are those wenches?

 

[bobcatdan]

I'm guessing Cat which is rebadged SO.

 

[RedneckWelder]

I'm guessing Cat which is rebadged SO.

Yep, most Cat tools are rebadged Snap On.

Being that I work for a Cat dealer I get 'em at discount. Furthermore, the SnapOn man refuses to come to our shop so if we want Snap On Cat is the easier option.

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

Not all o-rings are created equal! The standard "black" are epdm, and not made for emersion in gas/diesel. Use a viton (brown). There are just so many different types..whew!

Yeah - o-rings, especially in hydraulic stuff, have to match the series of parts that you use them on. You can get assortments to match once you know what you will be dealing with. I can't tell you the number of leaks I have dealt with where someone used the wrong type to fix it already and it still leaks - many swear up and down the component must be bad and demand I replace it when they finally bring it to me.... and then they swear I'm some voodoo-witch-doctor when I show them it's fixed in a few minutes with the right o-ring.

Besides, o-rings, electrical terminals, tape, wire ties and all that stuff should be "shop supplies" IMO. I have never bought any of that stuff on my dime - always order it through the shop even if it's a kit for me to keep in my toolbox.

 

[jeepinerdeep]

There were 2 things guys suggested here that I would NOT get IMHO: a diesel compression tester and a power probe. All the adapters and gauges I've ever seen a truck shop that didn't supply loads of these, but it may be different in Ag. Power probes are for checking trailer lights.

I WOULD get a set of meter leads that allow you to load the circuit, and/or good backpins. Checking something at a component without a load is a waste of time. Took me a while to learn this to the point where it's second nature. I'd budget a good 180 bucks for this stuff and a nice box to put it all in.

I here's a couple finer points to consider. Long *** magnets of varying strength, ditto for those claw grabber pickup tools. Tis a long way from the top of a machine to the god forsaken cranny you lost your stubby 3/4 wrench in. Also, you'll be using flashlights a lot more than a regular car shop guy. There is two schools of thought here, good and expensive- but don't leave it magneted to the machine, or cheap and throw away. I kind of split the difference and use the light that matches my cordless tools for convenience.

On a final note, I wish I would have used more gloves of all kinds and safety glasses.

 

[plinker]

An air hammer with a dull/rounded chisel for frozen hydraulic nuts/fittings.

Brass & plastic tip hammer's, brass punches, various style hex bit sockets, quality electrical crimpers and such. 8pt sockets are nice to have for pipe plugs too.

Something I found invaluable when playing in a John Deere dealership was multitudes of different coloured cable ties and paint pens, great for ease of remembering where each hose came from in a hydraulic block

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