My 14mm t-handle is from Motion Pro, so not Japanese. It lives in my boat tool kit for swapping out the batteries when needed. No socket to attach -- or lose, or drop -- and the t-handle prevents rolling. Very good qualities in a boat tool.
You'd best get rid of those Motion Pro T-Handles if you want to hang out in this thread.
I've got the same ones too. Damn, that's not good to hear. I've only used mine once but the screw I removed wasn't that badly rounded off (hex head) nor did it take a lot of torque to get off. To be honest I really only got them cause I liked the way the rounded off profile looks. I kind of regret buying them only cause I got the Knipex Twingrips not too long after and I feel like my ZAs will just get overlooked & sit in the drawer. The screw removal jaws are pretty large too, most of my needs are usually with smaller screws that my Engineers seem to cover just fine.
Haha! I never noticed all them facets until looking at your blown up pic, then again I never really bothered to pay attention as I don't deal with them much. But I have notice the "pre-rounding". I used to wonder why my nut drivers never seemed to get a good grip on them. Just thought it was those few but then I noticed that even new they are like that. It's like they were designed to cam out like Phillips are claimed to be.
I do like all the other Merry pliers I got though. The stout stubby needle nose (Y75) are my favorite of the bunch, work great for cotter pins. I've used the nail in tire pliers (2500T) a few times already & they worked good but a pair of end cutters would work just as well. I hope they hold up well, I haven't used them enough to know yet.
Grind the lead-in chamfer off of your existing nut driver (if it isn't chrome plated) or buy and use a better designed nutsetter that has zero lead-in chamfer from the factory. Brands like Malco that cater more towards professionals or sheet metal workers make them. Some Bosch and Klein products have zero lead-in chamfer. That design will engage the properly formed hex part of the screw head and work without issue for electrical ground screws and hex head self-tapping sheet metal screws that usually have shallow heads or very small properly formed contact patches.
here's one of the screws i had to use it on. a grounding screw. it was driven through a hole in a sheet metal enclosure (electrical enclosure), but it hit wood behind the enclosure before it could go in all the way and do its job securing a ground wire. it was driven into the wood with a lot of tension on the enclosure causing it to bow a bit, and the screw was stripped out (the interior combo / phillips part).
naturally, i tried getting it out with a socket (actually a nut setter)...
why the hell do these stupid screws have all of these weird facets on the exterior hex head? and why are they pre-rounded? seriously, what are these morons thinking? if it was like a normal hex head fastener, it would have been no issue. but the nut setter just rounded it out more.
ever notice that on these ******* screws?
Tools4me said:
Of all the pliers I own/owned these Snap-ons are my absolute favorite & most used. My thought for Y75 Merry was an alternative for them but they are still quite different. I really love using stubby needle nose. They don't make these SOs anymore & I haven't really seen a current equivalent in the Talon style.
I believe these bolts are designed to be driven in and not removed.
here's one of the screws i had to use it on. a grounding screw. it was driven through a hole in a sheet metal enclosure (electrical enclosure), but it hit wood behind the enclosure before it could go in all the way and do its job securing a ground wire. it was driven into the wood with a lot of tension on the enclosure causing it to bow a bit, and the screw was stripped out (the interior combo / phillips part).
naturally, i tried getting it out with a socket (actually a nut setter)...
why the hell do these stupid screws have all of these weird facets on the exterior hex head? and why are they pre-rounded? seriously, what are these morons thinking? if it was like a normal hex head fastener, it would have been no issue. but the nut setter just rounded it out more.
ever notice that on these ******* screws?
Yup, almost everytime I come here I ended up spending money!Hey @darkzero where did you source the KTC connector pliers?
You mentioned the KTC being superior to the Merry, from a quick internet search the Merrys are over half the price, the KTC is that much better?
GJ is a terrible influence in general but the thread is the worst!
Wow, sad to see those PB bits get some rust forming. I was wondering when they might because there's no way their coating will last forever. I have a lot of Wiha bits that are far worse. Not sure why but Wiha bits always rust out on me over time. I have a bit of Wera stainless and very happy with those, also they are impact ratedI found these oddly unflattering product photos today on Amazon Japan.
I do love the PB bits for fit, so hopefully mine won't rust.
since the roto was THE reason I put together the order.
I assume that's what the other pliers with the similar working end are for also. I can't quite make out the number on those in your pics.
I believe that the retaining position on Japanese bits is in a different location that non-Japanese/standard bits.Is there a spring clip retention device in the Vessel Ball Grip shank holders? I stuck a pick point into that groove and there was definitely 'something' there but it was so tiny and loose I thought it might be just production chaff. Whatever it was, I left it in there.
I tried some standard non-Japanese 1/4" bits. They go in with more effort than it takes for Vessel replacement blades, and removing them definitely takes a lot more effort. I'm guessing the Vessel Go-Sai and Sakisubo and other Japanese (DIN 5260-PH/ISO 8763-1) bits fit better for stubby configurations?
That's what I see in mine.
Wow, sad to see those PB bits get some rust forming. I was wondering when they might because there's no way their coating will last forever. I have a lot of Wiha bits that are far worse. Not sure why but Wiha bits always rust out on me over time. I have a bit of Wera stainless and very happy with those, also they are impact rated
