Tools / Skills Needed To Take Anything Apart

[oldschoolcraft]

One of my goals when joining GJ was to build up my toolset to have all the tools needed to take anything apart that I could reasonably want to. Anything from a cell phone up to a pickup truck (for now and possibly up to small tractors in the future if I move to my family farm in Nebraska)

I'm a hobbyist/tinkerer and if I can't take the thing apart, I can't see how it works, salvage parts or try to fix it.

Here's what I've learned over the last year on GJ and some of the tools I've bought and some I am planning to buy. Please correct any mistakes I have in my thinking.

The most common fasteners in auto work are hex and these require either sockets or wrenches. You need a diverse set of these depending on access to the fastener and how much torque it needs. I currently have a set of 6mm to 25mm (+SAE) combination wrenches, SO flare wrenches, and 4mm to 36mm sockets (Across 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drives). Future plans to get impact sockets and a Milwaukee Fuel set. Also plan to get some ignition wrenches and short/midget combination wrenches once I identify which brand/sizes to get.

It's not possible to have a complete set of all possible screwdrivers in a reasonably sized way so 1/4" bit sets expand options with less storage space. Thanks to SSDave's recommendation I picked up the 123 piece Mac set here:

https://www.mactools.com/en-us/Scre...-Hex-Drive-Mac-Grip-Ratcheting-Bit-Driver-Set

And also the Brownells 120 piece Magna bit super set (made by Zephry I think) which is meant for gunsmithing but I like having the full set of flat head options available for general purpose work.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...gna-tip-professional-super-set-prod26376.aspx

Future plans are to expand out security bits beyond what's in these kits. There's a lot of esoteric security bits out there. Also plan to expand out with some better 1/4 bit driver. Not sure what the "best" in class tool for the job is. I didn't buy the Brownells handles, just the bits.

Regarding small micro screwdrivers, I don't think bit sets are the way to go. I think the bits may make access to some fasteners impossible due to the bulk of the shape of the bit. So for these I am leaning towards the Wiha Picofinish line of precision screwdrivers. The overall size of the screwdriver is small so the total package will take up not too much space. At least a lot less space than the 200+ full size screwdrivers I'd need to copy the Brownells/Mac 1/4" bit sets!

For damaged fasteners, I found a great thread on GJ going over the different tools available for that but was overwhelmed by the options and competing opinions. I wound up purchasing an Irwin 25 piece multi-spline extractor set. Future plans to expand out to other types of screw extractors once I learn more about them.

Additionally, I learned a technique from Southside Auto (which was recommended youtube channel from GJ) to take a dremel tool with a cut off head and grind into the top of a shear bolt to create ability for a screwdriver to remove it. Genius! I assume he did a philips cut but maybe a single cut for a flathead driver would work. I also assume this may work on damaged fasteners as well. I only have a corded Foredom rotary tool which wouldn't let me do this trick in confined access areas of a car. Future plans to expand into a cordless dremel.

I read a lot about using a torch to cut fasteners as a last resort. Future plans for me include getting into torches/basic welding when I have a big enough house and workshop for that.

One skill I had before coming to GJ was "shocking" a rusted fastener by smacking against the screwdriver. Also applying heat with a heat gun and lubricant with a spray (used to use CLP now using T9 Boeshield). But GJ introduced me to "impact striking" screwdrivers that have a built in steel cap meant for striking so I bought a set of 6 of those for philips/flathead.

Please critique what I learned and what tools/skills I'm missing.

 

[measuredtwice]

sYou asked for opinions so... Many of those bits you will likely never use and if you did need them, you could easily buy something local when needed. And you've spent a lot more than most folks would spend on bits. Most important --> you seem to enjoy collecting tools and happiness is important. Buying bits is certainly cheaper and healthier than some other hobbies and vices.

As for the bits that you've chosen... I like Zephyr bits but I have avoided buying the ones from Brownell's out of concern that they may be made soft for gunsmithing compared to the harder industrial bits. I don't know the specs. Customer reviews on Brownell claim the bits are soft.

I haven't used the Mac bits. I think they're made in Taiwan.

I mostly use bits from Zephyr, Apex, Felo, Montana Brand, Vessel, PB Swiss.

For precision drivers, your choice of Wiha is good. Personally, I would get the hollow ground slotted drivers from PB Swiss. I'd get hex-plus precision from Wera. And I 'd get Phillips and Torx from Wiha, Wera, or PB Swiss.

Here's a photo of the PB Swiss precision slotted drivers. I suggested the one on the right with the hollow grind. That's for 3.5mm and smaller. For full size slotted drivers 4mm and bigger, I'd go with the one on the left.

I did end up buying an oldie for fun. Also picked up an old PB Swiss slotted bit that was made before they started putting the colorful finish on them.

Old one on the left. New one on the right. Both are 3.5mm.............

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

Slot headed screws have such a wide range of specifications, and this is by the book, that getting a tight fit is almost impossible. Gunsmiths will hollow grind the bit to fit. They use a 1 1/2"mounted grinding wheel in a drill press. I buy a handful at a time at the tool store. Modern rifles use allen heads and Torx BTW. You would be wise to purchase socket mounted bits in Torx, allens in metric and SAE. I've used them on machinery ,even my quad. Don't stint here . Even the best are barely good enough. As for screw driver, I get by with just three Philips #1,#2 and #3. Instead of buying 27 piece set, buy one of the very best. Wera are so good, that I can almost accept Philips as being almost usable. Canucks use Robertson and throw Philips away when they encounter that devil designed object.

GJ isn't very helpful, even after buying tools for half a century, I'm finding holes .

 

[JBH]

Buy a couple micro singles to see which handle you like. Personally, I don’t think Picofinish Wiha are any better than standard ones, but they are more expensive. (I prefer Wera to both) Or you might want different brands/styles for different tips for easy visual id. For example, if you get precision hex screwdrivers (probably not needed) get one type for fractional and one type for metric.

 

[matt stott]

If you are looking at fixing stuff around the house, many modern things (toasters, mixers, kettles, stereos) will use torx screws deep in holes. You will need either long bits or separate torx screwdrivers.

That said, a DVM, multimeter and soldering iron are almost a must-have, even for auto stuff. A way to read OBD2 codes is also very handy, and can be had for cheap nowadays.

Good luck, it is a long process, I am always finding new tools that I just have to own.

Matt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[visionguru]

One of my goals when joining GJ was to build up my toolset to have all the tools needed to take anything apart that I could reasonably want to. Anything from a cell phone up to a pickup truck (for now and possibly up to small tractors in the future if I move to my family farm in Nebraska)

....

Additionally, I learned a technique from Southside Auto (which was recommended youtube channel from GJ) to take a dremel tool with a cut off head and grind into the top of a shear bolt to create ability for a screwdriver to remove it. Genius! I assume he did a philips cut but maybe a single cut for a flathead driver would work. I also assume this may work on damaged fasteners as well. I only have a corded Foredom rotary tool which wouldn't let me do this trick in confined access areas of a car. Future plans to expand into a cordless dremel.

.....
Please critique what I learned and what tools/skills I'm missing.

How about tools for watches, mechanical (automatic/manual) and quartz?

Once you have dealt with the tiny screws inside a watch, you will realize that there is nothing "precise" about the commonly referred to "precision screwdrivers", which are basically electronics screwdrivers with clumsy Euro style handle, such as Wiha, Wera... There are mini screw driver bit sets that can deal with cell phones and ipads well.

For precision screwdrivers, Vessel seems to have some sets as I consider close to "precision" screwdrivers.

By "southside auto", do you mean "South Main Auto"? That's the best auto repair channel on YouTube.

 

[byacey]

Taking something apart is easy, anybody can do that. The real skill involved is repairing and re-assembling something so that it works as designed, or better.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

One of my goals when joining GJ was to build up my toolset to have all the tools needed to take anything apart that I could reasonably want to. Anything from a cell phone up to a pickup truck (for now and possibly up to small tractors in the future if I move to my family farm in Nebraska)

Need to rethink that goal. Can shorten this sentence.

I'm a hobbyist/tinkerer and if I can't take the thing apart, I can't see how it works, salvage parts or try to fix it.

That's the spirit.

Please critique what I learned

See above.

and what tools/skills I'm missing.

If you like the idea of striking screwdrivers. Get a manual impact driver for "frozen" fasteners. IMO the cheap brands work just as well as the more expensive ones.


Security bit sets are also available cheap. $20 will get a set of bits for more different types/sizes than you will ever see and will probably be good enough for the few security screws you will ever need to mess with. (Unfortunately the desire to mess with them, will increase when you have the bits).