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Tools to have in order to avoid abusing other tools

JWC86

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Sep 4, 2021
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270
Already has been said once but I’ll say it again:
Pullers

The last few years I’ve been spending the money on getting the proper pullers for the job I’m doing and it makes the job so much more enjoyable. I’ve been comparing the cost to buy the puller to the cost of what it would have cost to have a shop do the job to help me justify buying it if not already owned usually just one use will be cheaper and then you have it for next time.
 
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Beerhippie

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Far NE Oregon
I may be weird, because I don't use screwdrivers as chisels or prybars, I don't use pipe wrenches as hammers. I have plenty of the real thing. That doesn't mean I won't use a 3 or 4 foot chunk of pipe as a cheater on my 36 inch pipe wrench. Never more than that, because I don't have an appropriate size pipe any longer than that.
I was amazed the first time I saw someone using a flat-point hand prybar to unscrew screws....
 

Hakeem

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Chicago
I may be weird, because I don't use screwdrivers as chisels or prybars, I don't use pipe wrenches as hammers. I have plenty of the real thing. That doesn't mean I won't use a 3 or 4 foot chunk of pipe as a cheater on my 36 inch pipe wrench. Never more than that, because I don't have an appropriate size pipe any longer than that.
Let’s say you’re doing some plumbing work in your basement and you need to tap something into place. Are you going to drop everything and go to your garage to get a hammer? Or just use the pipe wrench you’re already holding to get it done?
 

Fixr

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SW VA
Let’s say you’re doing some plumbing work in your basement and you need to tap something into place. Are you going to drop everything and go to your garage to get a hammer? Or just use the pipe wrench you’re already holding to get it done?
My basement being a low crawlspace full of rocks, I might well use a rock. But yeah, just for tapping I'd likely use whatever was at hand.
 

LOW1

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ontario
I am forever using flat screwdrivers for things that I really shouldn’t. Rather than buy more “correct” tools I buy medium quality screwdrivers and replace them periodically at $5 or $10 each. Screwdrivers to me are like drill bits - consumables.
 

Fixr

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I am forever using flat screwdrivers for things that I really shouldn’t. Rather than buy more “correct” tools I buy medium quality screwdrivers and replace them periodically at $5 or $10 each. Screwdrivers to me are like drill bits - consumables.
I keep some crappy screwdrivers around just to modify and abuse. By the time I'm done modifying them, I no longer consider them to be screwdrivers.
 

bwringer

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Indianapolis
A slow speed wet sharpener - because edges will dull from use, and a dull edge tends to get forced.

The slow speed and use of water with it will preserve the temper in the edge, as opposed to a high speed grinder.

I have the Grizzly T32720 - which is a pretty good knockoff of a Tormek, at considerably lower cost.
The same general principle applies to anything that cuts or abrades; you'll do better work much faster without damaging the work or the tool if you keep it sharp and/or use fresh, high quality consumables. Much less risk of damage to yourself, as well.

This applies to everything. Hand planes, chainsaws, sanders, chisels, knives, saws of all sorts, guybrators, angle grinders, wire wheels, machine tools, files, lawn mowers, etc.
 

Aaron_W

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Northern California
Having a good variety of hammers and prybars as those tasks seem to be at the top for misusing tools.

Even hammers get misused as hammers. I'm sure everybody has seen (if not been guilty of) a framing hammer being used in place of a more appropriate small sledge.


A variety of punches would be my runner up.
 

Beerhippie

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Far NE Oregon
Having a good variety of hammers and prybars as those tasks seem to be at the top for misusing tools.

Even hammers get misused as hammers. I'm sure everybody has seen (if not been guilty of) a framing hammer being used in place of a more appropriate small sledge.


A variety of punches would be my runner up.
My elbow could tell some tales about that if it could speak. I once spent most of a day driving three-foot pieces of #3 rebar through 4X garden edging with a framing hammer because the boss said "Don't bring any tools. I've got it covered." I was off the job for a week after that.
 

Aaron_W

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My elbow could tell some tales about that if it could speak. I once spent most of a day driving three-foot pieces of #3 rebar through 4X garden edging with a framing hammer because the boss said "Don't bring any tools. I've got it covered." I was off the job for a week after that.

One of my favorite Harbor Freight Tools is the one handed sledge hammers aka Engineer's hammers. Very handy, available in a variety of sizes from 2-4 lbs and they are cheap so abuse away.
 

Wubicon

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Jan 10, 2025
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368
Can someone build us an AI tool scrounge threads like this build a summary of which posts have the most likes so we can see the commonly liked ideas?

That would be a great way to use an AI tool...
 

Fixr

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If you have the right vise, it's also an anvil you can mount in the vise:

54620116401_78e18d56e8_o.jpg

I use it that way a lot.
I have a ~2 foot chunk sitting on the ground next to the 8x12 band saw. The chunk was broken (yes, broken) out of a full length in preparation for being dumped into a crucible, so the ends are not neat. If you cut yours with a band saw, was there any problem getting through the top surface? I don't want to ruin a blade.
 
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KwikFab

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Central Valley, CA
Plasma cutter.

Sometimes you need to cut **** in a manner that's difficult to get to, which can sometimes cause injury to the end user (angle of said item, orientation IE left/right, direction of cutting tool's rotation, etc)

Granted my suggestion won't work for everyone, but if the item ain't in my garage, I ain't ******* with it anyway.

I often switch to my hand torch when my mini cut off wheel, angle grinder, or other means don't work well and/or safely.
 

Beerhippie

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I have a ~2 foot chunk sitting on the ground next to the 8x12 band saw. The chunk was broken (yes, broken) out of a full length in preparation for being dumped into a crucible, so the ends are not neat. If you cut yours with a band saw, was there any problem getting through the top surface? I don't want to ruin a blade.
I tried a Portaband. Ruined a blade. I tried an abrasive cut-off saw. Ruined a blade and magic smoke issued from the motor. Rebuilt the saw.

I then gave up. It has rough ends--torch-cut.

Here's where I gave up trying to true up one end:

54744189587_b1905c23fd_o.jpg
 

Fixr

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I tried a Portaband. Ruined a blade. I tried an abrasive cut-off saw. Ruined a blade and magic smoke issued from the motor. Rebuilt the saw.

I then gave up. It has rough ends--torch-cut.

Here's where I gave up trying to true up one end:

54744189587_b1905c23fd_o.jpg
I kinda suspected that. What do you think about clamping it upside down in the band saw vise and letting it cut until the chips stop flowing well, and then attempting to finish the job with a cheap plasma cutter?
 

Beerhippie

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I kinda suspected that. What do you think about clamping it upside down in the band saw vise and letting it cut until the chips stop flowing well, and then attempting to finish the job with a cheap plasma cutter?
I don't know--I don't have a horizontal bandsaw and, besides, I wisely gave up before I ruined every cutting too in the shop.

Where I was trying to cut it is weldment--almost certainly a thermite weld. I'm not sure, but I think that might be even harder than the face.
 

whateg01

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doo dah, kansas, usa
I don't know--I don't have a horizontal bandsaw and, besides, I wisely gave up before I ruined every cutting too in the shop.

Where I was trying to cut it is weldment--almost certainly a thermite weld. I'm not sure, but I think that might be even harder than the face.
And that's probably why it broke there
 

Fixr

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I don't know--I don't have a horizontal bandsaw and, besides, I wisely gave up before I ruined every cutting too in the shop.

Where I was trying to cut it is weldment--almost certainly a thermite weld. I'm not sure, but I think that might be even harder than the face.
Oh Hell. A thermite weld? All bets are off!
 

Fixr

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I suspect something that came out of one of the many mines just south of here--and probably came out of a mine elsewhere before that, and something else before that and....
Mine came from a local foundry that melted an amazing variety of ferrous stuff. The safety guy gave me permission and helped me load it up. I was kinda dumbfounded.
 

tool_scrounge

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Southern California
I have a ~2 foot chunk sitting on the ground next to the 8x12 band saw. The chunk was broken (yes, broken) out of a full length in preparation for being dumped into a crucible, so the ends are not neat. If you cut yours with a band saw, was there any problem getting through the top surface? I don't want to ruin a blade.
I used a power hacksaw and it cut thru no problem.
 

Beerhippie

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Far NE Oregon
My knockout punch set takes a step bit to make a large enough hole for the punch . 3/4" or 7/8", don't remember.
3/8" for the little guy--the 1/2" nominal (actually 7/8"), 5/8" for the larger ones in my Greenlee set. I tend to break the 3/8" drive screw occasionally making knock-outs in stainless enclosures. But a step-bit is the right tool for the job of making the feed screw hole, for sure.
 

Old Man Roger

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Apr 6, 2017
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Palm Coast Florida
I have a ~2 foot chunk sitting on the ground next to the 8x12 band saw. The chunk was broken (yes, broken) out of a full length in preparation for being dumped into a crucible, so the ends are not neat. If you cut yours with a band saw, was there any problem getting through the top surface? I don't want to ruin a blade.

I tried a Portaband. Ruined a blade. I tried an abrasive cut-off saw. Ruined a blade and magic smoke issued from the motor. Rebuilt the saw.

I then gave up. It has rough ends--torch-cut.

Here's where I gave up trying to true up one end:

54744189587_b1905c23fd_o.jpg
If you have a torch couldn’t you just anneal the area to be cut? Obviously the advantage of having it is the fact that it’s hardened, but if you just hit the small area to be cut wouldn’t that be ok?
 

Beerhippie

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Far NE Oregon
If you have a torch couldn’t you just anneal the area to be cut? Obviously the advantage of having it is the fact that it’s hardened, but if you just hit the small area to be cut wouldn’t that be ok?
Maybe? All I have is a little baby plumber's oxy-acetylene. It does have a cutting head for it, but it doesn't seem like it would be good for anything over a quarter-inch--if that. I have a plasma for cutting, but no way I'm getting a clean cut on something that thick!
 

Semi-hole mechanic

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Feb 2, 2017
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One of my favorite Harbor Freight Tools is the one handed sledge hammers aka Engineer's hammers. Very handy, available in a variety of sizes from 2-4 lbs and they are cheap so abuse away.
My dad always had an engineers hammer in every tractor toolbox, mostly for hitting three-point lift arms either onto or off of equipment. They fit in almost every toolbox because of the short handles.
 

Semi-hole mechanic

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I’ve heard them called that too, but he always called them an engineer’s hammer. One thing I’ve learned working in farm store retail is that everything has 5 names. It just depends on where you are at in the country as to what an item is called. A lot of times even in the same state the same item is called by a different name because of the regional differences.
 
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