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Tools to make my barn building easier

Mikefromcny

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Apr 2, 2011
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510
Location
Upstate NY
Hi all,

In a few weeks, I will be putting up a 40 x 80 x 14 pole barn. By myself, with the help of a few friends. I've never taken on a project this big, but it should be a good challenge. My goal is to have it up by snowfall.

Level dirt pad is done. Materials start showing up next week.

Stuff I have:

Bobcat with auger, 60' boom lift, 24' ladder, cordless dewalt tool set, miter saw, levels, basic hand tools, air compressor.

Currently shopping for a framing nailer that will shoot 16d's...if you guys have any recommendations, I'm all ears.

Are there any other must have tools for this project? I was thinking a laser level could come in handy too.
 
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James-W

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Feb 3, 2013
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Southeastern Wisconsin
I have built several storage sheds, decks and garages for people, but I have never built a pole barn. Quite frankly, I have no idea how to do it. Building a pole barn is a bit different than building a regular stick-built structure. If I were putting up a pole barn, I would hire it done by people who know what they are doing. I am NOT trying to tell you what to do, I am just suggesting that if you have never built a pole barn you may get yourself into some difficulty doing it. At a minimum I would recommend getting someone to work with you who has at least helped to put up a pole barn before.
 

Marctrees

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Mar 5, 2015
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TX/LA border - Toledo Bend
Ya, the thing w many of the Post barn builders is they got it down to a Henry Ford production line thinking, they are so efficient hence, surprisingly inexpensive.

I've shown this before, just interesting to note... Marc

These Guys don't work your area, but still good info.

No concrete - https://rob-bilt.com/pole-barn-prices/

Concrete matl and labor included - http://fivestarrbuilders.com/pricing-guide/
 

rockettgpw

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Jun 20, 2013
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Sunshine Coast Qld down under
I would suggest a two ton telehandler, mainly for the high reach capacity and because I'm thinking one for my next shed build and want to see how it goes. But it would probably just duplicate the bobcat for your job
 

matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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SE Michigan
The rotary laser level with sensor was incredibly useful for my build. Just took it to a friends house to check out concrete forms.

An impact driver tool was very useful as I used many screws of all kinds.

I bought a trim and siding brake, used, for the job, it was extremely useful for that phase. You may not need this for your job.

Having 2 sets of sawhorses (the injection molded plastic folding versions were fine) was also a big help for setting up different cutting jobs.

I would want to add a 10" mitersaw and a 7-1/4" circ saw as well, cordless tools are OK but serious corded saws are needed for this scale of work. I used an old school 8"-ish "portable" all cast iron tablesaw as well at times.

Good to stock up on a large pack of pencils as well :)
 

bullnerd

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Jersey
String
chainsaw
Some way to cut the steel siding, diablo blade in a skilsaw works great.
 

James-W

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Southeastern Wisconsin
I think it would be in your best interest to check and see what it would cost to have a company build it for you. As "Marctrees" pointed out, the guys who do this are very good at what they do. They can get the job done quickly and correctly and for a reasonably low price. If you think the price is too high, then continue on with your plans to build it yourself. But I think you may be pleasantly surprised to find the cost to be much less than you imagine.
 
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Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
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Merkel, TX
I have an older Proter-Cable FR350B framing nailer. 21 degree, full head. I used it so much I work out the piston seals and rebuilt it with a kit. Bought refurb from CPO Outlet. Same with the roofing nailer - both work horses.
 

joe_padavano

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Feb 26, 2011
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Northern VA
I have an older Proter-Cable FR350B framing nailer. 21 degree, full head. I used it so much I work out the piston seals and rebuilt it with a kit. Bought refurb from CPO Outlet. Same with the roofing nailer - both work horses.

X2 on the FR350. I've had mine for nearly two decades. I've dropped it from the roof of my 36x48 pole barn. Still works great (except I had to replace the broken air fitting after dropping it).
 

jconnor3

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May 22, 2015
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79
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Indianapolis, IN
Love my Hitachi framing nailer. Giant help when framing our 900sqft addition this summer. I have yet to have a jam in it. Would buy again in a heartbeat.
 

DGersic

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DeKalb, IL
I bought a used Surebonder off of Craigslist from a guy upgrading to Paslode cordless guns. A bit worn looking, but works fine. Price was right.

Check to see what supplies are going to cost, and how available they are wherever you're going to be buying them. Don't buy a gun you'll have to order nails for.


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jives

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Jan 4, 2013
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Central NY
Laser level and find a builder. That is a large building for you and a couple of friends, even with the equipment. I built a 22 x 22 pole barn by myself and took me a couple of months. Granted, I had a job at the time, but was still working 20 hrs a week on it.
 

Hot Rod Grampa

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Near Cooperstown New York
The really big deal is to start out square, not parallel. If that part gets screwed up, it will be a very long build. Water level would work also. Then a story pole for the rest of the gerts. Most pole barns have a very specific trim package for the eaves and overhangs. They are designed for quick install. Check out fabral or abc metal. I set up scaffolding on a hay wagon running gear and boy it made life easy.
 

dfiler2

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Dec 15, 2014
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NW Minnesota
It's not rocket surgery, you'll be fine. Make sure it's all square and level and ask questions if you're not sure how to do something. I've had good luck with Paslode framing nailers, they do a great job with lots of different length nails. Not sure how you are set up but the one thing I find really helpful is to have a trailer set up with your miter saw, compressor and other hand tools so clean up at the end of the day is quick and simple. Take lots of pictures.
 

matt_i

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SE Michigan
Also wanted to throw in the Swanson Speed Square, which has been knocked off many times, there's a 7" and a 12" version. Both have their shining moments, in addition to a regular 24" carpenter's square. I am also a fan of Stabila bubble-type levels, the bubbles are very tough (machined out of a plastic block I think) and will not burst from freezing.
 
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crook038

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Nov 3, 2010
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South Eastern MA
I absolutely could not have construed my 42X48X14 pole building without my rough terrain scissor lift. Also, metal is not very forgiving, measure, measure, and remeasure. A rotary laser level was also incredibly helpful, good luck.
 

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RPH

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Dec 17, 2006
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Michigan Thumb
Did a 30 x 72' foot pole barn with my son and daughters help. Measure twice, cut once still holds. If the strings don't line up like they should neither will the building. We were off by an 1/8" over the 72' length. I would get some scaffolding as the inside ends up being the hardest. Electric tin shears didn't hurt either. Electric impacts, yes plural as there is a **** load of screws to install. But have fun, it's not hard. Kids learned a ton about building. So did I.
 

Kev442

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Jan 15, 2009
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Wi
My build involved lag bolts and carriage bolts (I'm not sure what kits have in them). I had a useless $20 1/2" air impact lying around, one of those gems included with some package I bought. That 250 lbs rating turned out to be perfect for lag bolts as opposed to my real impact that would squeeze the wood if I wasn't paying attention.
First case of less being better that I can ever recall.
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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Scaffolding.
With casters that will work on your surface.

You are going to be working with your feet at least 8 feet off the ground.
You need something stable to stand on.

If possible, get two sets, one for each end of whatever you are lifting into place.
 

NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
I have a Porter-Cable framing nailer, I believe it's a FR350 like the others mention, and has served me well. It was money well spent.

If you don't have a impact driver, by all means, now is the time to get one.

A roll of mason line (string) and maybe buy a second one, just because.
 

mrobins297aaa

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south east michigan
One trick thing that the guys that put up my barn did was to shack all the metal siding sheets in one pile and drill all the holes for the screws before hand. This did two things it made all the screws line up perfectly straight after it was installed and even more important with pre existing holes it kept those self drilling screws from warping the metal when they tighten up.

these guys did a lot of barns my 36 x 64 x 14 was just over 23k, with 4 windows, 2 walk thru doors, 1-18'x8' roll up door , 1-10x12 roll up door, 3 sided over hang and 4/12shingled roof with trusses 2' on center.
I think my cost was going to about 3k less if I did it myself...........definitely not worth doing it myself.
 

6768rogues

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I have built many and sometimes we put the trusses up by hand and sometimes with a machine. Can your lift pick up that much weight? On some we put one end of the truss on the wall, then the other with the peak down, and then flip it up. Lots of temporary bracing, especially for the first few (braces to the ground). If they topple, someone can get killed.
I used a home made water level for years and it worked perfectly.
One or two tall (10' or 12') step ladders will be valuable to you.
 

wcp0611

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Nov 25, 2014
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Rockvale, TN
What I would've given last year for a super tall privacy fence installed when I built my shop. I had every male neighbor in the 'hood coming by to see what I was up to or ask questions. None ever lent a hand. They just came by and stopped me from nailing or whatever to talk about it for an hour or two and then leave.
 

22george

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Jan 26, 2011
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SW Ohio
I used 2 28 ft extension ladders on my 32x64x14. I also used a palm nailer for the nails. Worked great.
 

KEH

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Jan 31, 2010
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Look on Youtube for videos on setting the poles upright in the ground. I was not successful at the copy and paste routine but you will want to watch more than one video anyway.

Also look at videos on setting up trusses.

KEH
 

larry_g

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Apr 28, 2007
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oregon
3-4 tools for driving screws, if going battery tools then a few extra battery's. We bought a 'kit' and chose to assemble it ourselves. The assembled cost was ~$6k higher. By the time we spent on rental tools and hiring a couple of carpenters we only saved ~ 2500 bucks, and added months to the process. If I were to do it again I would hire it done.

on edit, I also seem to remember that I was offered a framing only option, wgere they framed the building and I could hang the steel, doors and all the finish work.

good luck

lg
no neat sig line
 
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Marctrees

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Mar 5, 2015
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TX/LA border - Toledo Bend
I think it would be in your best interest to check and see what it would cost to a company build it for you. As "Marctrees" pointed out, the guys who do this are very good at what they do. They can get the job done quickly and correctly and for a reasonably low price. If you think the price is too high, then continue on with your plans to build it yourself. But I think you may be pleasantly surprised to find the cost to be much less than you imagine.

Yup that.

Both are OK, totally depends what YOU want.

BUT - I HIGHLY suggest to at least seriously consider what I suggested, .... then decide.

I DO garanteeee you it will take more effort than you think, even if you have all the tools and equipment.

All depends on whether you want to work ON your building, or IN it.

At my age, 60, I choose to work IN my all done by end of this year ( "God Willing") building.

And enjoy picking out those R panel steel shards from your ears, eyes, and tighty whitys, let alone your Dog's paws and nostrils, .. and then the next day after the overnight dew came..."WHY O WHY do I have these rust spots all over my roof???"

Ya.

Oh, and the 16d framing nailer... not sure where you are gonna use that... unless just for initially pinning of stuff.

The girts and purlins take more like 20d ring shank "pole barn nails".

I'm not aware of any 16d in a pole barn, not the main building shell at least anyway, someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Cynical ??? No, realistic.

But, if you do want to do it, it will be a learning experience that will gird yer loins in confidence for future projects.

I mean that seriously, it can be an awesome stepping stone... just not easy. Marc
 
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Marctrees

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Mar 5, 2015
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TX/LA border - Toledo Bend
Look on Youtube for videos on setting the poles upright in the ground. I was not successful at the copy and paste routine but you will want to watch more than one video anyway.

Also look at videos on setting up trusses.

KEH

Great advice. Both, and more related videos, time very well spent. Marc
 
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Dragfluid

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Sep 15, 2013
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Pillager, MN
When my 42 x 72 x 14 was going up, I would come home from work every night and admire what had been done that day. I only had to do that for 6 days, and it was up with the 2 man doors installed. The 2 overheads were installed by a different guy, so that was a couple days later. And then it was done.

Like others have said, by the time you rent and buy all the extra things to do this, the cost difference is minimal. Not to mention the wear on your body, and the danger of falling from the roof, and the time it will be taking.

Good luck!
 
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M

Mikefromcny

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Apr 2, 2011
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510
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Upstate NY
Thanks for all the input so far. Ideally an Amish guy was going to do the build, but the dates and prices kept changing.

Materials were purchased from a local building supply store. The owner did it personally on a estimate program on his computer.

Heres a picture of my old girl, she has a busy month ahead of her!
48ed080be67a8922ec4ee605601d36d9.jpg


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Mandres

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Jun 22, 2006
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There's an excellent pole barn building series on YouTube here:
his project is smaller than yours but definitely worth watching all the way through
 

Toomanytools?

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Nov 4, 2010
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Washington
Sounds like a project I think you have most of the tools. I helped with mine but a crew of 5-6 guys did most of it. Tools used extensions ladders, levels, nail gun & compressor, impact drivers, skilsaw, big drill and bit for the bolts through rafters and post. Mason string for lining up posts, a laser level would be nice for slab work and setting girts but you can rent one for a day or two.
My building is 16 foot tall the guys did everything on extension ladders no lift, they build the roof in sections and cranked them up with post lifts you can rent those, but you have a lift so should be good.
I'm helping a friend do his 36x60x14 just 3 of us off and on when time allows it's taking a long time I think it's in the 3 month, though he had rotator cuff surgery early on and has been useless for a month or better.
If you have any construction experience it's not a big deal, it just takes time unless all the guys know what to do. Good luck.
 

wcp0611

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Rockvale, TN
There's an excellent pole barn building series on YouTube here:
his project is smaller than yours but definitely worth watching all the way through

Second that. I watched this and others many times over before starting my diy build. Gave pointers and helped me tackle the parts I didn't have a clue. Best thing about a metal sheathed pole building is just how forgiving it can be on any mistakes you make. It'll all look pretty when sheathed.
 

Turbo997

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Aug 6, 2017
Messages
1
This is my very first post , but this thread caught my eye.
I just finished up my 40x60x14 pole barn. I have been wanting to build forever, but was afraid to take the plunge. More so the spending than anything.
One month ago i had a area full of trees and a fall of the property of about 3-1/2 feet to the back.
Had a pad built with 17 loads of dirt brought in.
My neighbor is a 62 year old carpenter and a hard working fanatic. He and i set the poles with my bobcat. I made a boom pole that extended about 14 feet up. The boom helped me tremendously setting the poles and the 40 foot wide trusses.
Had the concrete poured and finished by another friend so I/we were there to help with the forming. Be sure to think about what electrical and what plumbing you might want in the future NOW.
For three solid weeks there were no more than 2 people assembling , while I was at work My neighbor hired a friend of his to help him , mostly handing him sheeting to do the roof. The helper was there for three full days , while i could not be.
I was fortunate enough to have man lift almost exactly like yours. I do not think that it would be possible to have gotten the job done without it. The manlift helped out getting all of the metal on the roof. Those 22 foot sheets were a pain to handle before we came up with a system using the lift to get them up there.
Once the roof was completed the walls were pretty cut and dry. Neighbor did all of the framing , i did all of the grunt ( ground ) work. Once all of the framing was done we would get a sheet set in place he would do all of the screws up high from the manlift , while i did all of the screws down low. ( be careful not to get hit while he comes down overhead) .
All in all , I am happy with the outcome and I know everything was done right. How much I saved doing it myself I am not sure , but i am thinking around 5000.00 maybe a little more. I did question the decision to do myself when all that i did in any of my off time was work on this building , now looking back I am glad I did.
the tools that i remember -
Small tractor with posh hole auger , we still had to finish digging the holes out by hand
But i could not imagine doing 18 of them with out the auger.
My bobcat with fabricated boom pole.
40 foot man-lift.
two or three cordless screw guns with several additional batteries.
side grinder with cut off blades for cutting sheet metal.
plenty of pencils , sharpies, and razor knives (cutting insulation)
speed squares and used a 4 foot T square quite a bit.
Hammers , string line and a laser transient
nail gun , tin snips , nibbler.
BEER ! for the evening shutdown time
 

MEngineer

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Apr 13, 2015
Messages
345
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Everett, Wa
the Hitachi NR83A3 framing nailer will outlast you. It is what the commercial guys use. I picked up one. Parts are available everywhere should you need them, but you probably wont.

You will also likely need some decent auger style wood bits (recommend the IRWIN brand) that are long enough to drill through the posts.
 
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