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Top 5 Used Drill presses?

SB440R/T

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Will be looking for a quality used drill press and there seems to be a lot in my area. I should be back home in about three months and want to pick something up. Will mainly be used to do small stuff, don't do any real fabrication. Will be used for wood and metal.

But I wanted to see if maybe from the experienced people out there what maybe a top 5 used models or even just brands would be to look for. Not sure if its even reasonable with so many opinions out there.
 
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jakemac

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Most likely most of the listings you will see will be Craftsman. Depending on who's giving the advice, your target period will be 40's, 50's, and 60's. IMO, 70's and 80's are Meh. I wouldn't bother with anything after the early 90's. But that's just my opinion. Companion and Dunlap are economy versions of the Craftsman brand.

Delta and Delta/Rockwell would be another brand that may turn up. It depends on your area. Look for the same target dates, although, the early to mid-90's weren't too bad for modern machines. HomeCraft is an early economy version of Delta's.

If you spot a Darra James from the 50's, that would be a catch. But it isn't likely, they're like hen's teeth.

Sprunger is another rare odd vintage brand in the economy category.


Whatever you get, look for something that has (or can be made to have) a slow speed option for drilling metal (usually, but not always, a third pulley).
 

Steevo

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Craftsman, Delta, Rockwell/Delta, Powermatic, Walker-Turner, Clausing
All good machines up until the late 1970's/Early 1980's or so when they started importing stuff.
 
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SB440R/T

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Craftsman, Delta, Rockwell/Delta, Powermatic, Walker-Turner, Clausing
All good machines up until the late 1970's/Early 1980's or so when they started importing stuff.

Cool, good list to start with, thanks.

Love that bench build you did by the way. Makes me want to get another HF box and build it with a space in the middle. But have to learn to weld MIG first, Halfway through stick welding course and I had to leave for a while, so have to pick it back up when I get back.
 

dr_clyde

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Clausing, Allen, Alzmetall, Cincinnati-Bickford and Walker-Turner would be in my top five, but they are industrial drills. For a home shop, some overlap applies but you're looking at again Clausing and Walker-Turner, but early Craftsman, Delta/Rockwell and Powermatic are worth a look.

Edit, I see Steevo and I like a lot of the same drills.

Edit again, if you can find an Arboga geared head drill, they are very nice. Swedish made and top quality. Wilton and Jet rebadge these.
 
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Packard V8

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In random order:

1. Clausing/Rockwell
2. Powermatic
3. Delta/Rockwell
4. Walker-Turner
5. Craftsman (many varieties, but only the 14" and larger models are really good)

I'd not choose Homecraft, Dunlap, Companion, Driver Line, as these are very light duty for the most part.

Whatever you get, look for something that has (or can be made to have) a slow speed option for drilling metal (usually, but not always, a third pulley).

Too many Gjers make this a deal-breaker when it's not really so. When the OP says,
"Will mainly be used to do small stuff, don't do any real fabrication. Will be used for wood and metal," how many larger-than-1/4"-diameter deep holes in steel do we think he'll be drilling?

Large diameter deep holes in steel really are best done with a light-industrial Morse taper spindle DP and that's not as user-friendly and/cost-effective to the typical home shop. Drills cost several times more in MT shank and it then requires a separate chuck with a MT adapter to use straight shank drills, reamers, countersinks and wood bits for the lighter work.

The other unanticipated consequence to a MT spindle with a chuck adapter is the longer distance from the bearings and the extra pieces in the drive train can increase dreaded run-out and reduce accuracy.

Bottom line - it seems a good quality 14" with standard 1/2" chuck will suit his needs. Only remaining question is does he want a bench or floor unit?

jack vines
 

catalytic

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Clausing, Allen, Alzmetall, Cincinnati-Bickford and Walker-Turner would be in my top five.......

Edit again, if you can find an Arboga geared head drill, they are very nice. Swedish made and top quality. Wilton and Jet rebadge these.

^^ what he said x1000

Or do what most machine shops end up doing and use a bridgeport m-head as your drill press...
 

redmondjp

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I wouldn't rule out one of the Taiwan presses made from the 1980s onward - Craftsman, Jet, and dozens of other brand names. Are they as good as the others mentioned above? Heck no. BUT they are inexpensive and readily-available. Quality can vary so it's worth checking for runout, smoothness, table flatness, etc. when you go look at one.

A couple of years ago, I picked up a near-new-condition 20" Craftsman (late 1980s vintage, Taiwan-made) at an estate sale a few blocks away (so close that I walked over to see it, nice). It has a nice large table, built-in light, 5/8" chuck, and has a 150rpm (or 200? can't remember) minimum speed which I wanted for drilling larger holes in metal (I have a set of reduced-shank drills up to 1 1/2" diameter that I picked up at a surplus sale). It will meet all of my drill press needs for the rest of my life.

I found my brother a variable-speed Clausing several years ago (3-phase). He had to do a fair bit to work on it (bearings, hard-to-find belt, etc) and has a 3-phase rotary converter in his shop since he has several large woodworking machines which all have 3-phase motors on them. He is very happy with it. He does a lot more metalwork and woodwork than me, and I do much less than I used to.

So short story long, don't necessarily rule out a newer drill press. Some of the older Craftsman ones have V-belts which are so tiny they look like they came out of a sewing machine, so not everything older is necessarily better.
 

jhnlngn

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I use an old Delta but a lot of guys swear by the Powermatic 1150 for wood and 1200 for metal.
 

Davefr

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I wouldn't rule out one of the Taiwan presses made from the 1980s onward - Craftsman, Jet, and dozens of other brand names. Are they as good as the others mentioned above? Heck no. BUT they are inexpensive and readily-available. Quality can vary so it's worth checking for runout, smoothness, table flatness, etc. when you go look at one.

I would go as far as to say the early name brand Taiwan machines like Jet and Delta can be better then most of the common oldies. (excluding the very scarce 17-20" oldies designed for machinists that others have mentioned).

The reasons:
- Better features (table lift, table tilt, table rotate, table tram)
- Better motors (higher HP TEFC motors)
- Much wider speed range and usually a more user friendly speed/belt change mechanism.
- Parts are readily available
- Easy to find complete, accurate and working

I would avoid any old machine with the variator style pulley. Parts can be insanely expensive, they're noisy and need to be run thru the entire RPM range frequenty
 
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SB440R/T

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I would go as far as to say the early name brand Taiwan machines like Jet and Delta can be better then most of the common oldies. (excluding the very scarce 17-20" oldies designed for machinists that others have mentioned).

The reasons:
- Better features (table lift, table tilt, table rotate, table tram)
- Better motors (higher HP TEFC motors)
- Much wider speed range and usually a more user friendly speed/belt change mechanism.
- Parts are readily available
- Easy to find complete, accurate and working

I would avoid any old machine with the variator style pulley. Parts can be insanely expensive, they're noisy and need to be run thru the entire RPM range frequenty

I had to google what that was, but similar to a CVT transmission right?
 

exmaxima1

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I had to google what that was, but similar to a CVT transmission right?

I would say closer to the drive on snowmobiles. CVT trannies use belts made of stacked metal segments and the power is pushed thru the stack, whereas conventional variable speed belt drives transmit power via belt tension.
 
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SB440R/T

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I would say closer to the drive on snowmobiles. CVT trannies use belts made of stacked metal segments and the power is pushed thru the stack, whereas conventional variable speed belt drives transmit power via belt tension.

Ok, so I should be looking for multiple pulleys or a pulley with multiple slots right?
 

larry_g

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Do not walk past an older Buffalo Drill press if one comes your way. The Buffalo name is also on some of the newer Chinese imports but it's easy to spot the difference.

lg
no neat sig line
 

exmaxima1

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If you spot a Darra James from the 50's, that would be a catch. But it isn't likely, they're like hen's teeth.

I'm surprised you would recommend a Darra James machine. They were all low-cost lightweight tools, mostly all aluminum. I would stick to cast iron for a drill press.
 
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jakemac

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I'm surprised you would recommend a Darra James machine. They were all low-cost lightweight tools, mostly all aluminum. I would stick to cast iron for a drill press.

I don't disagree, but lightweight in the 50's was a different animal than it is today. A machine built on that principle today would be a soda can in comparison. Not all the machines offered by Darra James were lightweights. The brand was mentioned based on the 400lb DJ cabinet saw I had to move, and the DJ scroll saw I've seen. As well as the bandsaw that others have commented on. I haven't had the opportunity to inspect a DJ drill press yet.

My bias leans towards the 40's Craftsman/Atlas DP's, but that's just me. Any decision on whether to buy a machine will need to be based the condition of the actual machine on hand, regardless of what it is. I was just throwing out another option.
 
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exmaxima1

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My bias leans towards the 40's Craftsman/Atlas DP's, but that's just me. Any decision on whether to buy a machine will need to be based the condition of the actual machine on hand, regardless of what it is. I was just throwing out another option.

Huge difference between Darra James and 40's era Atlas. I had an Atlas benchtop DP and to this day it was the smoothest running press I ever owned. In addition, it had a 3-spoke wheel and well-designed locks--awesome machines.

That would be my pick as best benchtop drill press along with a Delta DP220. For floor models, I would pick Delta DP600 since there are so many of them and parts are widely available. If price is no issue (within reason), I'd pick Clausing (non-VS), or possibly Powermatic---but only if the variable speed sheaves were in great condition.
 

Davefr

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Ok, so I should be looking for multiple pulleys or a pulley with multiple slots right?

I'd suggest 12-16 speed with a 3rd intermediate pulley. That will get you down to a couple hundred and all the way up to a few thousand RPM. A belt reconfiguration takes about 15 seconds.

Those variator style drives like in older Powermatics seem like a good idea but everything I've read suggests that parts are insanely expensive to replace when worn. Most the the dials also state. "Run the DP thru the entire speed range daily". I'm not sure why but it sounds like a PIA. I've only had one variator style machine (Rockwell benchtop DP) and couldn't stand it. I could never dial it all the way down to the low speed.
 
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Davefr

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For floor models, I would pick Delta DP600 since there are so many of them and parts are widely available.

Yes, those are to die for!!

Do you really see them widely available where you are? Want to send one my way? That DP does it all!! I'd dig pretty deep for one of these.

Here's an image:

15420-D.jpg
 

exmaxima1

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Yes, those are to die for!!

Do you really see them widely available where you are? Want to send one my way? That DP does it all!! I'd dig pretty deep for one of these.

They do come up regularly in the Chicago area. I got mine for $100, but 3-phase works fine at my shop. The DP in the pic has ALL the frills: separate head and table lifts, foot assisted quill, production table, and even that lamp may be an oem Delta part. That DP, fully restored like that, would likely set you back upwards of $1k :shocking:
 

Whitworth

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Buffalo, Walker Turner can be really hard to find parts for, as well as some other lesser knowns.
Best: Delta-Rockwell 17", and 15" with a six inch throw. I prefer stepped pulleys over vary speed, less noisy and less maintainence. Also Powermatic and Clausing 15"

20" drill presses are monsters, they take up almost as much room as a small milling machine.

If you want a smaller drill press, Atlas, Craftsman (King Seeley) or Delta 14"
 

pcmeiners

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For older presses, important is parts availability. Check on ebay/web for parts, used or new, and the prices. If few parts are available, pass on the drill press. I have a variable speed Delta 17", required a couple days to cleanup and change bearings, parts are avilable. Needed to change from a 3ph motor to single phase and purchase a couple chucks. Lastly quality used presses weight hundreds of pounds so shipping or pickup can be an issue. As to a new or used press, I would not buy new, as the quality of the older presses are generally much higher then new ones.

"Oh yeah, I didn't notice it."

Same here
 

Porkis

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Aaaaand resurrected. I live in UT and I hate how hard it is to find old iron. If anything ever does get listed here, it’s priced way higher than anywhere else. I’d pay $400 for what you guys get for $100.
 

isb cornbinder

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Another option is an antique camel-back drill press. The camelbacks are increasingly rare. I have several. I like the look. You may not want to consider one of these because of the additional maintenance required, just like a red hair GF. ;)
 

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ecotec

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Aaaaand resurrected. I live in UT and I hate how hard it is to find old iron. If anything ever does get listed here, it’s priced way higher than anywhere else. I’d pay $400 for what you guys get for $100.
I see working drill presses for $50 and under a few times a month. I live in a very industrial part of an industrial metro area.

A third pulley is what I would look for most. Mine does not have one. I do not think that I will ever replace my drill press, though.

I say that… but it probably isn’t true. Something beautiful is what I would look for most… which is probably stupid. I am a form before function person.

If it’s ugly, what’s the point?
 
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