Torflex axle setup on trailer, I got a plan, seeking advice.

[Skyllz]

I've build a few leaf springs trailers in my life but shortly i'm tackling a torflex project.

I stumbled on a 5200lbs torflex axle for very cheap(with wheels and electric brakes) and will be building me a 6.5x16 flat bed for hauling my ATVs and small racecar(gutted miata). 3500lbs axle would have been sufficient but I paid less than half the price of a new 3500lbs axle for the kit already.

While building the frame/floor and such is not an issue, I was suggested to make the section where the torflex axle will bolt thicker(add 18 inches 1/4" plate on the frame rails?) to make that part more resilient to flexing and stress? Any other advice on building a trailer with a torflex that would be different from a standard leaf spring? I know I may have to make a spacer since it will be sitting quite low also.

Looking at making something similar to this with extra reinforcement from the fender going forward and back to help with flex and a full mesh deck to make it easy to wash the ATVs after a ride.

Thanks

 

[bigguns69]

http://www.dexteraxle.com/

Might check this out for ideas / dimensions, etc.

 

[RogueFab]

Plating the top/bottom of the frame near the axle is a good idea. 5200 axles are seldom used single in my experience. Usually when then much load capacity is needed a manufacturer will have at least 2 axles to help hedge bets against tire issues for safety reasons. But I'm not saying don't do it! IT sounds like you will never have anything close to 5200# on it!

My company developed a web based beam calculator. It won't do varying thickness beams (.375 top and .125 sides for example), and it is limited to round and square only... but it might help give you some insight.

https://www.roguefab.com/tube-calculator/

 

[Skyllz]

Plating the top/bottom of the frame near the axle is a good idea. 5200 axles are seldom used single in my experience. Usually when then much load capacity is needed a manufacturer will have at least 2 axles to help hedge bets against tire issues for safety reasons. But I'm not saying don't do it! IT sounds like you will never have anything close to 5200# on it!

https://www.roguefab.com/tube-calculator/

I doubt I will ever have more than 3000lbs on there, I just happen pick up those axles from a totaled enclosed trailer(rear ended, axles are fine) that I got for very cheap. So I'm working with what I have for now.

Plating it was the term I was looking for(English being my 2nd language...).

Cool link, very interesting. Thanks

 

[APEowner]

The need for plating will be somewhat dependent on the wall thickness of the tubing that you're using.

It may be just the perspective of the picture but the axle placement look way to far forward for proper weight distribution.

 

[bullnerd]

Will you be doing a build thread here?

I am interested in building something similar. I need to haul two of the cars in my avatar, about 700lbs each.

Deck need to be 5'6" x 16", but I want it light to haul with my explorer.

What are the advantages of that type of axle over others.

I have an old Holsclaw three bike trailer with coil springs and shocks. It rides way smoother than my friends small trailer with leafs. Is it the shocks?

 

[Skyllz]

Will you be doing a build thread here?

I am interested in building something similar. I need to haul two of the cars in my avatar, about 700lbs each.

Deck need to be 5'6" x 16", but I want it light to haul with my explorer.

What are the advantages of that type of axle over others.

I have an old Holsclaw three bike trailer with coil springs and shocks. It rides way smoother than my friends small trailer with leafs. Is it the shocks?

Most likely, i'm no good ad taking pics or documenting, i'll try.

Torflex axles ride much smoother, like independent suspension instead of a solid axle.

 

[Warrenator]

You already know this I'm sure, but no welding on the axle, damages the rubber inside.

 

[racingtadpole]

I have an ALKO similar to that to put onto my F Vee trailer one day when I have a moment. My plan was to bore some solid bar through the centre, clearanced for the bolt size I intend to use and weld them into the top and bottom face then plate the top side only. My Vee only weighs around 400Kg so I figured it was only really necessary to plate the top of the 3mm chassis rails the axle attaches to.

With a payload of 3000lbs I would be tempted to suggest that looking at rigidity there is more to gain in plating the sides of your chassis than the top and bottom, although that wont hurt either because it wont allow the fasteners to be caving the tube in.

 

[Skyllz]

What I have planed to help with rigidity is something along those lines from the fenders going down on each side. I predict it'll be overbuilt like most stuff I build but it will last... until I come up with a better idea and build something else

 

[koditten]

Why not go the utility trailer route? Build the sides like the one in my avitar pic. You will have the rigidity that you desire and end up with a trailer that can haul lots of different things.

I do know that trailer is going to ride rough. Those axles are designed to operate the best with a load.

 

[koditten]

I just read your first post again. 16 foot on 1 axle is a pretty long span. You definitely need to truss the sides to keep it from flexing.

 

[kerrynzl]

I just read your first post again. 16 foot on 1 axle is a pretty long span. You definitely need to truss the sides to keep it from flexing.

Not if he has a triangulated tongue [or cutback tongue] going all the way back to the wheels.
From the side profile it has the same effect as 2 beams stacked on top of each other.

If the OP is planning on an "open centre" [parallel runner] frame , there is 4 frame rails to share the loads.

The weakest point is at the rear of the torsion mount to the frame. [compression loads going upwards with vertical loads trying to "cantilever" downwards.]