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Toro kerosene torpedo

xtremek

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I have a 100,000 btu toro torpedo heater that won't fire. It has spark and spits kerosene out of the end of the thing about 4-6 feet. I'm trying to find the ait filters for it. Where can you get them. I'd rather pick them up locally. I work in Warren, Mi and live north of Lansing, Mi. Will this fix my problem? I oriented the spark plug properly and the fan blows good. It was working great last year. Any suggestions? I didn't drain the tank for the past summer, but I did get it to fire for about a day, though it was hard to get it started. In order to get it to fire last year, I had to prop the cover open. Help, it's getting cold out in the middle of the mint fields.
 
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rlitman

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Is the spark plug clean?

Not draining the tank over a summer is a big no-no with these, as kerosene will soak up a lot of water in that vented tank.

When you say it spits kerosene out the end, is it a nice fog?

The air filter isn't your problem. If the nozzle is spraying kerosene, the air filter is fine. Anyway, the filter on these is usually foam, and washable. They don't really go bad.

Did you accidentally try it with diesel fuel? I tried that once, and the standard spark plug just couldn't get diesel started (although I then did a wacky modification that made starting much more reliable).
 
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xtremek

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The spark plug is fairly clean, showing just a touch of richness. The filter looks like it's starting to degrade. The last guy never ever cleaned. It's kero only, I learned that lesson long ago:lol_hitti. I don't know if it's a nice fog. I tried to start it without the inlet filter and no go. I tried it again tonight, put the filter in part way and it fired. I think I'm going to go get some good kerosene, try and find both the inlet and outlet filters. What was your wacky mod?
 

rlitman

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Well, when the ignition transformer failed in mine, I found a Beckett solid state oil burner ignitor module for less money than the replacement transformer from Desa. Since it had more than twice the voltage, and two floating terminals (so no spark to ground), I figured I could shoot for a bigger spark gap. One that went right across the spray cone.

So, I took two old spark plugs from my car, and carefully sawed off most of the threads so I had a long ceramic insulating cone with the electrode sticking out. I drilled out the opposite side of the "bridge" that the spark plug was in, and put one of these plugs in each side, and hooked up each plug to a terminal using old spark plug wire (you need that silicone insulated stuff to resist this kind of voltage). The result was a 1/2" arc that fired across the front of the nozzle, which would reliably ignite diesel (which I really wanted to try, because I had trouble finding kerosene for a reasonable price locally).
Really, it's just a homebrew clone of how an oil burner works.

What I discovered though, was that no matter how I tuned the adjustments, I could not get a clean enough flame with ULS diesel. Either it was spewing CO when it was rich, or it was making so much NOx that it would burn your eyes when it was neutral or lean. Then, when it got really cold, it was smokey, so I even tried an oil-pan heating pad under the tank with no luck.
Worst than all of that though, was the smell. It would linger on your clothing even after washing it, and was very difficult to wash out of my hair.

Since then, I've found a pump source for kerosene which is 1/4 the price of buying it by the gallon in the store, so I just gave up on diesel.

As for the filter. You could probably order one. There aren't many sizes. You probably either have the round pump with the D shaped filter, or the rectangular pump. Either way, I'd just go to the hardware store and pick up one of those green foam air filter covers (one that's at least 1/2" thick), and cut it to fit.

The spark plug will always build up black stuff that looks like it is running rich. This is not burning gasoline. If it's not making -some- soot, it is too lean.
I'd suggest just giving it a brushing once a year.
The hot wire style ignitors don't need cleaning, but they're really fragile. What you have is better.

Try some new kero, and if that helps, just slowly burn up your old stuff, well diluted.
 
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xtremek

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So I'm reviving this because I found the issue and I wanted to share what I found. I went to Reddyparts.com and read on how to adjust the air pressure and one of the things I read is that these things hate air leaks. I found the gasket for the end cover leaking like a sieve. I tightened the bolts up and she fired right up. Which way makes it lean, higher pressure or lower? Thanks for your help, it was all good info.
 

cnc-me

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90% of the problems with these things is got to do with the air pressure being to low.
They are made very cheaply in the compressor section, the vanes wear out after a year or so. I have had three of these things converted to run on compressed air.
Generally more pressure means more fuel, but you can get to much pressure, and they won't work right either, although I doubt you could ever get to much pressure with the stock setup.
I'm in Saint Johns as well.
 
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malibu101

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Agreed that with a heater like this where the airflow siphons fuel, more air pressure equals more fuel.

Yes, the carbon vanes do wear out over time.
But you absolutely can get more than the recommended air pressure in stock form.
At least I have/can.
 

cnc-me

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Agreed that with a heater like this where the airflow siphons fuel, more air pressure equals more fuel.

Yes, the carbon vanes do wear out over time.
But you absolutely can get more than the recommended air pressure in stock form.
At least I have/can.
Yah, it's basically a spray gun with a spark plug. :bounce:
 
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xtremek

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90% of the problems with these things is got to do with the air pressure being to low.
They are made very cheaply in the compressor section, the vanes wear out after a year or so. I have had three of these things converted to run on compressed air.
Generally more pressure means more fuel, but you can get to much pressure, and they won't work right either, although I doubt you could ever get to much pressure with the stock setup.
I'm in Saint Johns as well.

Howdy neighbor. The thing will put out about 6.5 psi when warmed up and the label says 5.5. I'm going to look for other leaks. FWIW, I'm a HUGE EJ Potter fan. I used to have an old Popular Hot Rodding that had an article about his Dart that had an V-12 Allison in it. I also saw him pull many times. I loved the rough look of his tractor. Back then we didn't call it a rat...., we called them sleepers and his was the coolest.
 

cnc-me

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The newer ones are easy to convert as they have separate lines for fuel and air.
I had an old one that was built way better, but it had a shitload of hours on it
and the compressor could no longer be rebuilt. Had to drill and tap fittings.
It was a pain to convert, but she worked nicely for years after the conversion.
Finally had to chuck it as the barrel was completely burned out.
 

cnc-me

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Howdy neighbor. The thing will put out about 6.5 psi when warmed up and the label says 5.5. I'm going to look for other leaks. FWIW, I'm a HUGE EJ Potter fan. I used to have an old Popular Hot Rodding that had an article about his Dart that had an V-12 Allison in it. I also saw him pull many times. I loved the rough look of his tractor. Back then we didn't call it a rat...., we called them sleepers and his was the coolest.

Back when I was in grade school you either liked Evil Knievel or E J Potter.
I think the class was split at 50/50.
 

cnc-me

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I remember my friend telling me about the Dart, and that it was brand new.
And how Ole E J was fixin' to cut the whole bottom out of it, so he could put in an
airplane engine.
 
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