torque extensions?

[R-C]

Does anyone have/use a set of torque extensions? I know a lot of guys I've worked with use torque sticks, but it seems like it would be cheaper to just get the extensions and use my already full set of impact sockets. I don't change tires much so I have just used a torque wrench but I'm to the point now where I'm tired of doing it in front of customers.

My snap on guy said he could set me up for 200$ with this set
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=675866&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[pmohr]

I use these at work - http://www.toolsource.com/drive-limited-extension-p-102971.html

Only problem I've had is the ball fell out of one (100 ft/lbs, my most used), ended up replacing it with a SO due to convenience.

 

[Reality Sucks]

i use them every day, i bought the whole set, but they grey 100ftlbs and the white are all you really need. They work great

 

[joedodge]

Yep I use them no issues what so ever I love them

 

[devoncoolman]

Use torque sticks on every vehicle i work on. I have the full matco set and the blue point set all great sets full warrenty and all. Buy extensions the integral ones are to expensive and instead of having 5 you will need about 20. If you only work on cars and light trucks you really only need 80,100and120

 

[sberry]

I never use them.

 

[kiatech]

KIA's use 21mm only so I have a 21mm 80ftlb one that I use all day.

 

[R-C]

What is the point of buying the sticks vs the extensions then?

Also it says to use them with thin wall impacts; can they also be used with my normal impacts?

 

[rwelch]

i use them everyday and both the extensions and the socket kind. i really like them because if i need to i can use a chrome socket if an impact wont fit or might damage customer wheels, mine aren't snap on but the hf ones. i checked them with a torque wrench and they were very close.

 

[hickmlg09]

We have these at school and I use them everyday! I really like them. I plan on getting some when the snap on guy comes cause I get a discount . I need a set for home. You will get a lot of use out of them. I recommend them!

 

[west wind]

I use the snap-on torque extensions. The blue 80 and grey 100 will do the majority of tire changes. Never had any problems them.

 

[5mall5nail5]

I have the SO 80 ft and I will be honest... I am not sure how accurate it is. It seems to be kind of random on lug nuts.

 

[skulldrinker]

I recently bought a set just in case if I ever get a dam job. I got the HF set for $49 on sale last month. I would not use them at home since my old 734 CP gun max's out at 100 anyway.

 

[redline380]

my buddies got a 1/2 torque extension. but in my opinion they dont work well, as in they allow too much torque. after i use his extension to put my wheels and and take them off by hand, i can tell they were all overtightened. one of these days i want to check them with a torque wrench to see just how overtightened they really are

 

[adamsredlines]

I have a MAC set I got off of craigslist for $30 that I use at the house, they come in handy!

 

[xj31]

They work if you know how to use them. You have to take a few minutes to calibrate your impact.

 

[sberry]

I agree with the learning curve and the calibration. I think they are a crutch to some extent, I like impact and a deep socket. We got a gun with a 4 speed. An impact contrary to popular belief is a tool that takes some education and some skill to get what you want from it. No matter what stick its still 99% prep and no matter what we light oil the nuts period, common penetrating spray. Use it to put it on, don't have to use it to get it off as simple as that.

 

[DirtRoad]

What do you mean by calibrating your impact?
From what i have read there is a very specific way the torque sticks need to be used.

I was going to get the HF set but looks like they dont carry them anymore.

 

[signcrafter]

They work if you know how to use them. You have to take a few minutes to calibrate your impact.

Can you explain the correct procedure to using torque sticks and calibrating them?

 

[pault28]

Can you explain the correct procedure to using torque sticks and calibrating them?

I am curious about this also. I just got an Accu-Torq 80ft/lb 17mm stick to use on my GTI for tire changes. How does someone calibrate their impact? I use an IR2131.

 

[Justin1776]

I think he means modulation of the speed of the gun and how much you hammer on the lugs.

 

[xj31]

Ok lets say you are using the 100 ft/lb torque stick. First you would torque a lug nut with a torque wrench. Then use the torque stick but back your impact down. try tightening the same lug nut and it should not move. Turn your impact up until it just starts to turn the nut and you should be right about there. The thing is torque sticks aren't like magic. The gun you are using and air pressure can affect the actual torque.

 

[firebox40dash5]

I am curious about this also. I just got an Accu-Torq 80ft/lb 17mm stick to use on my GTI for tire changes. How does someone calibrate their impact? I use an IR2131.

Basically, torque a lug nut manually to *** ft./lb. And then try taking it off with the gun and the torque extension. Start with the power (or working pressure) turned down, and work up until it will remove the nut. Then you're supposed to remember the power/pressure settings. Personally... I think consistent torque and proper sequence is more important than the exact right torque. Obviously within reason, don't want to leave them loose or snap studs.

I've got the set from the first reply, IIRC mine are Mac branded, my boss has the exact same set branded Matco. Really only use blue, grey, and white as others have said. Those 3, my short extension, and 3 metric Blue Point thinwall flip sockets take care of about 95% of cars out there.

 

[skulldrinker]

Will a 100# torque stick stop at 100# no matter what strength gun is used? A 1/2" or a 3/4"? How about air pressure. I'm guessing calibrating your gun means turning the dial of the built in regulator. Mine has 1 - 9 settings.

Is there like an certain input torque range to the stick to achieve the correct output torque? Like I said above if you use a 3/4" gun does it over ride the 100# characteristic of the stick and go beyond like say 125 or whatever? I would think so.

 

[signcrafter]

Ok lets say you are using the 100 ft/lb torque stick. First you would torque a lug nut with a torque wrench. Then use the torque stick but back your impact down. try tightening the same lug nut and it should not move. Turn your impact up until it just starts to turn the nut and you should be right about there. The thing is torque sticks aren't like magic. The gun you are using and air pressure can affect the actual torque.

Basically, torque a lug nut manually to *** ft./lb. And then try taking it off with the gun and the torque extension. Start with the power (or working pressure) turned down, and work up until it will remove the nut. Then you're supposed to remember the power/pressure settings. Personally... I think consistent torque and proper sequence is more important than the exact right torque. Obviously within reason, don't want to leave them loose or snap studs.

I've got the set from the first reply, IIRC mine are Mac branded, my boss has the exact same set branded Matco. Really only use blue, grey, and white as others have said. Those 3, my short extension, and 3 metric Blue Point thinwall flip sockets take care of about 95% of cars out there.

Isn't there a difference between torque readings from a bolt that is stopped and one that is moving? Not sure what the technical terms are. But I thought that it takes more torque to get a bolt going then to keep turning one that is already turning? So if you torque a bolt down manually and try to turn it more with the impact wouldn't it take more torque to move that bolt? So if you "calibrate" it like that and then go to spin a lug on wouldn't it actually go more torque then needed?

Also I thought you weren't ever supposed to use a torque stick in reverse?

 

[sberry]

Personally... I think consistent torque and proper sequence is more important than the exact right torque. Obviously within reason, don't want to leave them loose or snap studs.

Here you have it boiled down. Learning where the settings and feel as well as watching socket rotation and not zipping on at hi speed which creates heat etc.

With the tool without the tool its not a no brainer, I had to spend 30 mins the other day with our procedure, I added the use of a torque wrench and a common 1/2 ratchet for comparison when we were done to prove out the point that the way we are doing it provided consistent near dead nuts results, this comes from comparison again, learning the tool.

The goal of a bolt isn't to turn it till it absolutely stops turning, I really want to paint stripe on our lug sockets, I usually use the pin hole as a reference.

 

[firebox40dash5]

Isn't there a difference between torque readings from a bolt that is stopped and one that is moving? Not sure what the technical terms are. But I thought that it takes more torque to get a bolt going then to keep turning one that is already turning? So if you torque a bolt down manually and try to turn it more with the impact wouldn't it take more torque to move that bolt? So if you "calibrate" it like that and then go to spin a lug on wouldn't it actually go more torque then needed?

Also I thought you weren't ever supposed to use a torque stick in reverse?

I don't see why you *couldn't* use it in reverse... it's an extension, engineered to deflect at a certain torque value... nothing mechanical to it. I never use mine to remove lug nuts since half the time they're overtightened and it won't remove them. As for torque differences, pretty sure the instructions said to try to remove the nut, so it's static torque both ways.

To answer skulldrinker, IIRC my set said they were supposed to be correct with 250 ft./lb. input. I'm honestly not sure how much going above that affects them, whether it's linear or not, though I'd imagine it's a smallish percentage (ie 350ft./lb. input would yield 10ft./lb. more)

Honestly, I've never 'calibrated' mine. With a 50psi spread between cutoff and cut-in on the compressor, and the 5 different hoses I use, it probably wouldn't do me any good, other than being a ballpark. I watch for the socket to stop turning, and let off, I don't keep hammering on it. Like I said, I'm more concerned with consistency than balls-on accuracy. Never snapped a stud or had a wheel fall off... yet, anyway. *woodknocking*

 

[west wind]

I think people are really over thinking these torque sticks. Put the right stick on and tighten up the lugs. Even if they only get you ballpark or has I like to call it good enough.

 

[signcrafter]

I think people are really over thinking these torque sticks. Put the right stick on and tighten up the lugs. Even if they only get you ballpark or has I like to call it good enough.

Sorry but when it comes to the wheels on the cars my family drives I'm not really looking for "ballpark". I usually use a click type torque wrench to make sure they are torqued to spec. I wouldn't mind using torque sticks as long as there is a way to know for sure that they are pretty close to what they say they are every time. Just don't want to have to worry about air pressure changing, gun power, and other things giving a false reading and either breaking a lug or having a tire fall off.

 

[fsdogwood]

Basically, torque a lug nut manually to *** ft./lb. And then try taking it off with the gun and the torque extension. Start with the power (or working pressure) turned down, and work up until it will remove the nut. Then you're supposed to remember the power/pressure settings. Personally... I think consistent torque and proper sequence is more important than the exact right torque. Obviously within reason, don't want to leave them loose or snap studs.

But this is the reverse power. Try to understand how this get related to the
forward/tightening power.

 

[fsdogwood]

Sorry but when it comes to the wheels on the cars my family drives I'm not really looking for "ballpark". I usually use a click type torque wrench to make sure they are torqued to spec. I wouldn't mind using torque sticks as long as there is a way to know for sure that they are pretty close to what they say they are every time. Just don't want to have to worry about air pressure changing, gun power, and other things giving a false reading and either breaking a lug or having a tire fall off.

There are way too many cars got tightened up at the shops, with who knows
what torque. What I knew was that I had rotation/alignment done at a
AAA-shop, and the very next day, I could not take the wheel off, had to drive
back to the shop, complain to the mgr, ask then to loosen the lug nuts, put
it back with the click-type torque wrench.

These days, when I am to put the wheels on, I'd use a weaker driver (say,
the 1/4" cordless impact, or a 3/8" butterfly impact), and finish manually
with a torque wrench.

 

[Old Hawaiian]

Thinking of getting a set of torque extension/sticks but am uneducated and undecided on which type.

Not sure what is best for the home garage.

Which do you think is better torque extensions (need a socket) or the torque sticks (have the socket built into it)?

I think the hassle is that vehicles can need different sized sockets for the same torque values. Example - I've seen torque sticks with the same 80ft/lb. but have different sized sockets.

The two main vehicles I work on are a 2009 Ford F150 - (my truck needs a 21mm socket at 140lbs torque) and my wife's 2007 Toyota Camry - (needs (strangely enough) a 13/16" socket at 74LBs torque).

But kinda leaning toward of full or varied enough set because of all the vehicles I work on.

I have never bought or used these before. I heavily rely on my torque wrench's for everything. I know I still need to use my torque wrenches no matter what I do so am wondering if these are useful for the home mechanic.

Any suggestions?