Torque range for lug nuts - which wrench?

[Iocol]

I'm going to pick up a torque wrench primarily for working on my tires. The recommended torque is 80lbs. Would I be better off getting a wrench with a range of 30-150lb ft or 40-250lb ft?

I know that it's good to get a wrench in which you'd be using the sweet spot most of the time but since both of the wrenches I'm looking at are high quality ones, I'm sure either will do. Just wondering if there's an advantage to one range vs the other?

Dan

 

[Riverrojo]

Max torque on lugs is 150 lb/ft. No need to have to torque anything on a car higher than that.

 

[ATTappman]

If you ever need to remove and replace the axles, the axle nuts can be torqued to 230 ftlb, depending on the car. If all you ever need to do is put wheels back on, 30-150 ftlb is enough.

 

[zmotorsports]

I would go with the 30-150 ft./lb if that it was you will be using it for. Heads and main bearings are probably the only other items that would be torqued in that range. The only thing I can think of much higher than that is a crush sleeve for pinion bearing preload on an axle. Even the differential carrier bearing caps are in the 65-85 ft./lb. range. Ideally you want to stay in the middle 60% of the torque wrenches range for most accuracy. Above 20% on the lower end and below the upper 20% range. Mike.

 

[Iocol]

Thanks for all the responses guys. I agree that it would probably make sense to go with the 30-150 ft./lb range. The thing I'm struggling with is that I really want the Precision Instruments split beam 1/2" and the range is 40-250. I'm guessing that even with that big a range, it will do a good job for my purposes, no?

 

[MotoDave]

I'm going t0o go with the standard GJ response and say 'Get both'

 

[caper]

Thanks for all the responses guys. I agree that it would probably make sense to go with the 30-150 ft./lb range. The thing I'm struggling with is that I really want the Precision Instruments split beam 1/2" and the range is 40-250. I'm guessing that even with that big a range, it will do a good job for my purposes, no?

Nothing wrong with the precision instruments for your use.If that's what you like,go for it.It's a lot more forgiving of not being wound down after use.Front axle nuts sometimes are torqued in the 175 ft/lb range so if you ever do an axle you'd be prepared for it.

 

[Red Green]

I bought the $9.99 habor freight tourqe wrench used at an auction to use for lug nuts. I didn't want to wear out my good wrench checking lug nuts.

 

[Snappy]

I'm going to pick up a torque wrench primarily for working on my tires. The recommended torque is 80lbs. Would I be better off getting a wrench with a range of 30-150lb ft or 40-250lb ft?

I know that it's good to get a wrench in which you'd be using the sweet spot most of the time but since both of the wrenches I'm looking at are high quality ones, I'm sure either will do. Just wondering if there's an advantage to one range vs the other?

Dan

You don't need a torque wrench for working on tires

 

[Treeman]

I disagree with zmotorsports regarding accuracy. While a wrench might be most accurate in the middle of it's range (a % or two), it will be within the stated accuracy of the model (2 - 4%) from 20% of it's full scale all the way up to it's full scale. A 150 lb. wrench will be accurate from 30 to 150 ft. lbs. Don't believe me, check every manufacturers spec. page. 2 to 4% is moot, anyway, because other factors can create much larger errors.

Either of the two wrenches will work. I have the PI and it works wonderful. The flex head is more handy than you would imagine. Changing the settings is super easy, if you are torquing up in steps....ie, 33, 66, 100%.

Wrench length is something to consider. 80 to 100 ft. lbs. is not ball busting, but a longer wrench will always be easier to pull.

In the future, get a 20 to 100 ft. lb. wrench, then you will have a good overlap to cover most work. Then, get a 50 to 250 inch. lb. model to cover the low end.

I think Tooltopia has the PI on sale now for under $140.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I think Tooltopia has the PI on sale now for under $140.

$139.99 to be exact.

http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-c3fr250f.aspx

http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-c2fr100f.aspx

Charles

 

[Iocol]

thanks Treeman and Charles - I just ordered the PI from Tooltopia! Can't go wrong at that price

Dan

 

[Danglerb]

The $12 when on sale 1/2" clicker from HF works dandy for lug nuts. Long enough that the 94 ftlb setting I use is fairly effortless, positive click for repeatable results, no issues with it yet. If I had a fancy more expensive torque wrench, not sure I would use it on lug nuts.

 

[fordcragar]

You don't need a torque wrench for working on tires

I have to agree. I use a 4-way lug wrench to tighten lug nuts or a socket (if there is a clearance problem); and a impact to remove them. I've never had a wheel fall off or felt the need to torque them; maybe because when I grew up most people used their torque wrenches when putting motors together, and they were fairly expensive.

 

[nissan_crawler]

You don't need a torque wrench for working on tires

You're wrong two different ways, one if you're being literal about him saying tires...you've never put a tire on a beadlock wheel. If you meant wheel, then you've never put wheels on many later model vehicles that will warp the **** out of the brakes if they aren't torqued evenly.

I have to agree. I use a 4-way lug wrench to tighten lug nuts or a socket (if there is a clearance problem); and a impact to remove them. I've never had a wheel fall off or felt the need to torque them; maybe because when I grew up most people used their torque wrenches when putting motors together, and they were fairly expensive.

See above, this can warp your brakes in a heartbeat on many newer vehicles. I've had many people make this claim, then I've put a torque wrench on the nuts...many couldn't believe I was over 50 ft lbs above the setting, and still not getting the nut they put on to move. Not only is that hard on brakes, but those studs may not be rated for that, either. I made a tire shop haul my moms crv to the honda dealer and replace all studs after watching them rattle them on with an impact, and they couldn't break them loose with a lug wrench. God only knows what those twits did to hurt the studs.

The $12 when on sale 1/2" clicker from HF works dandy for lug nuts. Long enough that the 94 ftlb setting I use is fairly effortless, positive click for repeatable results, no issues with it yet. If I had a fancy more expensive torque wrench, not sure I would use it on lug nuts.

Exactly. I paid $9 for mine on a cummins tool truck, and it still calibrates after 9 years. It only takes a minute to do it the right way, why go out of your way to do it the wrong way?

 

[Iocol]

I understand that some people might think that using an expensive torque wrench for lug nuts, etc might be overkill but I'm just picky like that. I'm going to be using my torque wrench for 3 different cars, two of them which have expensive rims and rotors so for me, I want to torque them properly.

Could I do the same job with a $20 torque wrench? Of course - but then again I'm one of those people who like to use quality equipment, even for small things. Heck, I know people who use $500 Snap-On wrenches for the same job

 

[nissan_crawler]

I understand that some people might think that using an expensive torque wrench for lug nuts, etc might be overkill but I'm just picky like that. I'm going to be using my torque wrench for 3 different cars, two of them which have expensive rims and rotors so for me, I want to torque them properly.

Could I do the same job with a $20 torque wrench? Of course - but then again I'm one of those people who like to use quality equipment, even for small things. Heck, I know people who use $500 Snap-On wrenches for the same job

Hey, use what works for you, nothing wrong with that. There's no argument the pi one is better.

 

[Coach James]

I use this one in 1/2" and it works fine.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...&+Mechanics+Tools&sName=Torque+Wrenches#specs


Does anyone have a rational reason for Sears not putting the drive size of this wrench on the webpage? I swear their website gets more useless everyday.

Coach

 

[MotoDave]

FYI I got my Harbor Freight 1/2" torque wrench tested at work, it was well within specs for its entire range.

Then again I'm inclined to think I got lucky. Not sure i'd trust one that cheap if I didn't have some way of having it tested.

 

[malibu101]

Great timing.
I just bought the $9.99 torque wrench special at HF just for tire tourqing so as not to "wear out" my good one.
As was said above, equal lug nut torque is just as important as the what the torque is supposed to be.
I'm sure the HF model is good enough for this task.

 

[Merkava_4]

Would I be better off getting a wrench with a range of 30-150lb ft or 40-250lb ft?

I'm thinking I'd go with the 40-250 because it's probably longer and will give you more leverage for torquing wheels all day.

 

[Kona Cruisers]

random but of info...

CTS-V with a clicking noise coming from the front wheel area calls for the lugs to be tightened to 158 ft/lbs. i have the tsb in my box at work... while yes one in the thousands of cars to own it is past the 150 of the 40-150 range....

 

[bmwpower]

Why is everyone saying they are using HF wrenches because they are worried about wearing out their good wrench? Unless you have the means to calibrate them, I personally wouldn't trust them. Not sure how you would "wear out" your good wrench by using it.

 

[JCQuick]

I keep my totque wrench's set at there lowest setting when no being used. I torque all my wheels on all my cars and truckls with a sears's 25-250 ft. lb torque wrench. i use a matco 3/8" drive 10-100 ft lb for building engines and smaller stuff.
I use to have a real nice craftsman 1/2' torque wrench that I had sent out several times over the 20+ years I owned it. Sears lost it really pissed me off. the above mentioned 25-250 1/2' is what I got as a replacement from that deal.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Why is everyone saying they are using HF wrenches because they are worried about wearing out their good wrench? Unless you have the means to calibrate them, I personally wouldn't trust them. Not sure how you would "wear out" your good wrench by using it.

I wouldn't worry, personally. At work, more hf wrenches cal than snap-on. Yes, I'm serious. Besides, unless it's ridiculously off, the important thing is that they're even, more than 100% accurate torque.

 

[bmwpower]

I keep my totque wrench's set at there lowest setting when no being used. I torque all my wheels on all my cars and truckls with a sears's 25-250 ft. lb torque wrench. i use a matco 3/8" drive 10-100 ft lb for building engines and smaller stuff.
I use to have a real nice craftsman 1/2' torque wrench that I had sent out several times over the 20+ years I owned it. Sears lost it really pissed me off. the above mentioned 25-250 1/2' is what I got as a replacement from that deal.

*****.
Which one did they give you as a replacement? The PI?

 

[Danglerb]

Like it or not the HF works just fine, thats why I use it instead of the Snapon Techangle thing I am half afraid to even touch, EXCEPT when torquing my head bolts.

 

[Skyline]

I don't know why no one has mentioned it, but isn't the ideal tool for wheel/tire torquing a set of torque sticks?

Personally, I've never tried them, I use a Tech Wrench. But I have learned some painful lessons about wheel lug torque. First is that very little extra torque will shear the alloy studs on my G35. After a couple of tire places have done this, I bring my own torque wrench with me to the tire shop. Second lesson, is always re-torque after competitive events or off-roading. Several times I found lugs slightly loose after high stress events like auto-x or time attack; never lost a bolt though. But I did loose a wheel the day after a day rock crawling in my Jeep; pretty scary. I was not going too fast so my only damage was a screwed up rotor. But the stray wheel hit an oncomig truck, and did a bit of damage; not to mention scaring the piss out of the guy. Those wheels had been torqued to spec the previous day. Now I take a torque wrench offroading and re-torque while I'm airing back up.

 

[nissan_crawler]

I don't know why no one has mentioned it, but isn't the ideal tool for wheel/tire torquing a set of torque sticks?

Personally, I don't believe in them. I have yet to see an accurate set of them, don't care what brand. At best, I would use the lowest rated one, and use a torque wrench from there, but I can figure that out with the impact alone.

I've used torque sticks 20 lbs under torque, and not had the nut budge when I put a torque wrench on it.

 

[Snappy]

Personally, I don't believe in them. I have yet to see an accurate set of them, don't care what brand. At best, I would use the lowest rated one, and use a torque wrench from there, but I can figure that out with the impact alone.

I've used torque sticks 20 lbs under torque, and not had the nut budge when I put a torque wrench on it.

I've never used them but always wondered how accurate they were.

 

[pirana]

For what it's worth, the Precision Instruments wrenches seem to be pretty popular with techs at tire centers. I've seen em in use at Walmart, Discount Tire & small independent shops. I love mine.

 

[Tool Pants]

I have this 1/2" Penske branded CDI designed for wheel work. 250 pounds and it is longer than my Utica 250 pound torque wrench. It has a rubber head cover so you don't scratch a wheel, but I removed the cover.

It will tighten only in one direction, which I guess is a problem with left hand threads. Long time ago I loaned out a torque wrench and when it was used a breaker bar the ratchet broke. Can't do that with the CDI, so next time my friend wants to borrow a torque wrench again he gets the CDI.

It has a plastic plug where the selector would be. One of these days I might contact CDI to see if I can get the missing parts so it can torque in both directions.

 

[Mr.Nutcase]

How about torque sticks?

 

[nissan_crawler]

How about torque sticks?

read^^^^^^

 

[benjamming]

I realize that Iocol has already purchased the PI 1/2", but crankshaft bolts during timing belt jobs are often more than 150 ft-lb as well. Good purchase IMHO (as I have one as well).

 

[pfbz]

I have a cheapie HF 1/2" that is perfect for torquing lug nuts...

Wheel nuts are not exactly a nut that needs precision.

Most lug nuts I work with are ~100 ft/lbs.