Wamsutta
Well-known member
We all know that a Snap-on TechAngle will set your torque and then provide the TTY angle, but is there an alternative to a $500 torque wrench?
Torque To Yield Bolts - what's your method?
- Thread starter Wamsutta
- Start date
You can pick up an angle gauge for your torque wrench as an alternative. The link is just for a representation of what to look for.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...ormance-tool&gclid=COCo98zwkdMCFU-4wAodEIEDCQ
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...ormance-tool&gclid=COCo98zwkdMCFU-4wAodEIEDCQ
Strouty
Well-known member
I used to torque to spec, then go back and do the angle, just start as close to parallel to the head as possible, then go a quarter turn so the ratchet is pointing 90 degrees from your start.
md21722
Well-known member
You could buy a CDI branded one for over $600
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004618UZQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004618UZQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I use to use one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-TA-...492245?hash=item25d375a415:g:DdQAAOSwzgBY2nJM until I bit the bullet on the Snap-On techangle torque wrench
You can buy good digital torque wrench with angle setting for well under half the price of that snapon if needed .
Is easy mark the head to check the how much it turned and good to always mark fastener so have a base check option.
Simple angle gauges are a few bucks but not great to use like a angle measuring torque wrench.
I have a digital angle torque wrench 1/2" that was under 140bucks and it decent/accurate enough for most jobs.
Is easy mark the head to check the how much it turned and good to always mark fastener so have a base check option.
Simple angle gauges are a few bucks but not great to use like a angle measuring torque wrench.
I have a digital angle torque wrench 1/2" that was under 140bucks and it decent/accurate enough for most jobs.
Last edited:
pajibson
Well-known member
Where'd you get the difital for $140?
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Just watch the angle of your breaker bar as mentioned above, I've done countless heads that way.
Though I use a long handled 1/2" flex head ratchet now because getting a quarter turn of clearance in an engine bay for all the head bolts can be impossible with a breaker bar on newer vehicles. Just have to make sure not to let it ratchet.
I also make a tick mark with a paint pen on the head of the bolt, always on the exhaust side.
Makes it easy to see which bolts I have and haven't done, and also gives me visual confirmation I have turned it 90 degrees, or whatever the spec is.
Sometimes you have to do two rounds and sometimes the angles wont be exactly 90. A recent one was initial torque, then 90, then 70.
For that I just did 2 rounds a little less than 90 after initial. I'm sure I was close to 160 degrees total because I could see my marks.
I'm fairly certain the exact angle of turn isn't critically important as long as you are close.
Having them all the same is more important in my opinion.
An interesting thing, if on your initial torque you wait for awhile (half hour or so) and then come back and torque them again, several of them will move. Especially on aluminum heads, which most tty bolts are on. Though I am seeing tty bolts on iron heads now as well.
I once did an experiment while I was waiting on another part for a 4 cyl aluminum headed Chrysler van. I torqued them to spec and ran them all 3 times. I had clean holes and new lightly oiled head bolts.
45 minutes later I ran them again and over half of them moved, some a fair distance. Then I ran them twice more and waited another 45 minutes or so and ran them again, 3 or 4 moved, but not a lot. Ran them twice more and went home for the day.
The next morning I ran them again (left my torque wrench set overnight which I normally never do.) Only one or two moved, and not very much, but still a little.
Though I use a long handled 1/2" flex head ratchet now because getting a quarter turn of clearance in an engine bay for all the head bolts can be impossible with a breaker bar on newer vehicles. Just have to make sure not to let it ratchet.
I also make a tick mark with a paint pen on the head of the bolt, always on the exhaust side.
Makes it easy to see which bolts I have and haven't done, and also gives me visual confirmation I have turned it 90 degrees, or whatever the spec is.
Sometimes you have to do two rounds and sometimes the angles wont be exactly 90. A recent one was initial torque, then 90, then 70.
For that I just did 2 rounds a little less than 90 after initial. I'm sure I was close to 160 degrees total because I could see my marks.
I'm fairly certain the exact angle of turn isn't critically important as long as you are close.
Having them all the same is more important in my opinion.
An interesting thing, if on your initial torque you wait for awhile (half hour or so) and then come back and torque them again, several of them will move. Especially on aluminum heads, which most tty bolts are on. Though I am seeing tty bolts on iron heads now as well.
I once did an experiment while I was waiting on another part for a 4 cyl aluminum headed Chrysler van. I torqued them to spec and ran them all 3 times. I had clean holes and new lightly oiled head bolts.
45 minutes later I ran them again and over half of them moved, some a fair distance. Then I ran them twice more and waited another 45 minutes or so and ran them again, 3 or 4 moved, but not a lot. Ran them twice more and went home for the day.
The next morning I ran them again (left my torque wrench set overnight which I normally never do.) Only one or two moved, and not very much, but still a little.
ovrrdrive
Well-known member
When you let them sit they are stretching under the initial torque setting. Seeing as how they are a one and done deal that doesn't seem like a good idea to me. To each their own though. I'm sure you've never had a failure doing that.
online, model SW306 . actual price was under 140bucks, it no snapon but does the job no bother and accuracy seems good and it been tested/calibrated along with work equipment without issue .
Napa do have an option under 120bucks no idea on exact spec or usability of that one though .
crewchief888
Well-known member
torque to spec with torque wrench
i mark the turn on the socket and use a long breaker bar or ratchet to pull the final TTY.
built 100's of deere engines this way.
i doubt that i could have pulled final torque on the head bolts of a 6619 with a 1/2" dr torque wrench. final torque was somewhere around 200 ft/lb's with a 90 degree turn after that. X's 26 head bolts
i mark the turn on the socket and use a long breaker bar or ratchet to pull the final TTY.
built 100's of deere engines this way.
i doubt that i could have pulled final torque on the head bolts of a 6619 with a 1/2" dr torque wrench. final torque was somewhere around 200 ft/lb's with a 90 degree turn after that. X's 26 head bolts
dnschmidt
Well-known member
The best and most cost effective option is either the Eclatorq or Brown Line Metalworks digital angle gauges. I sell Eclatorq but I prefer the Brown Line Metalworks angle gauge because it has a V-block on its back that fits over round things (like breaker bars and ratchets) far better than the Eclatorq which requires a flat surface. These go for about $100 and in my opinion are more versatile that the torque wrenches that include torque angle since they often run out of range prior to achieving the final angle.
+1, This is what I do / how I think about it also.
Jeeper
Well-known member
I have been interested in getting that brown line angle gauge. Sounds like it's got some positive reviews.
mjoekingz28
Well-known member
Pretty neat bdelmar2.
67King
Well-known member
It isn't that critical. Torque to spec then turn the 90 degrees or whatever it is. Once the bolt yields, it is in a very stable/linear region, and will provide the clampload precisely over a pretty broad range. Much more linear than the elastic region, where the clampload can vary significantly with small differences.