Torque wr advise

[idubvdub]

Hey, I've got to pick up 2 torque wrenches. I'm in tech school, and have some questions I hope you all could help me out with. What drive size would you recommend for in.lbs. and what drive size would you recommend for ft.lbs.?
Also what range should I look for, for each wrench so I have the broadest range between the 2 and not too much overlap?

 

[jay50]

If your in tech school, see if there is a tool truck that is set up with the school for discounts. I got 2 SO clickers (3/8 & 1/2 drives) for about $110 each a few years ago that way.
For inch lbs, I recommend a dial TW. For clickers, you will need to get some overlapping coverage so eventually you will need both a 3/8 and 1/2 drive.

 

[epmills]

All depends on what kind of torque you need to bring things too, for in. lbs, 1/4 inch no question. For ft. lbs, if you're doing lugnuts or suspensions stuff, go with the 1/2, but if you're doing intakes, come cyl heads, or whatever, then maybe a 3/8 would be better.

 

[Lightning]

For in lbs buy the 1/4 inch drive torque wrench. You should have at least three torque wrenches, one low torque ( 6 to 30 Nm), another for medium torque (20 to 100 lbf ft), and one high torque (50 to 250 lbf ft)


The dial type is my favorite, but you cannot always use this wrench especially in blind spots. For the low torque wrench I would choose the dial type though.

 

[eschoendorff]

Proto would definitely be a brand to look into as an alternative to the tool trucks (maybe Jim - Kartracer55 - will pipe in here)...

http://www.blackbookoftools.com/ProductSearch.aspx?cat=77&mfg=197&search=&rsc=2&show=0&idx=2

 

[toolfreak]

I would go with a 3/8" and a 1/2" for now, I prefer Snap on tq series which is also made by Precision instruments. They have a thumb wheel on the side for easy adjustment and you don't have to worry about backing them off. The 3/8 is 16-100 foot pounds and the 1/2" goes from 40-250 foot pounds which will most of your automotive.

As far as an inch pounds torque wrench I prefer the dial type in 1/4" drive. I think it is easy to overtorque with a clicker style since it can be hard to heear or feel it when it clicks.

 

[eschoendorff]

I would go with a 3/8" and a 1/2" for now, I prefer Snap on tq series which is also made by Precision instruments. They have a thumb wheel on the side for easy adjustment and you don't have to worry about backing them off. The 3/8 is 16-100 foot pounds and the 1/2" goes from 40-250 foot pounds which will most of your automotive.

As far as an inch pounds torque wrench I prefer the dial type in 1/4" drive. I think it is easy to overtorque with a clicker style since it can be hard to heear or feel it when it clicks.

I thought Snap On torque wrenches were CDI?????

 

[idubvdub]

Wow thanks everyone, I didn't expect to get so much good help so fast.
Yep, I've got 50% discounts with snap-on and matco. So it'll be one of those 2.
Not in my budget yet to be able to pick up 3 torque wrenches.

 

[toolfreak]

I think most of Snap on's are made by CDI but here are links to the style I am referring to. A guy I work with has one he bought off the Cornwell truck that came in the precision instruments case and side by side it is almost identical besides the head.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...1&group_ID=958&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=9485

 

[idubvdub]

Alright well did some looking around and I think these 2
pair well and will allow me to do the most. Could you guys tell me what you think? (I couldn't find any dial type for the in.lbs. either it's not part
of the tools I get at discount or somehow I didn't see it.

Matco:
1/4 FIXED 30 - 200 IN LB TORQUE W #TRA200
Student Price: $110.77
Snap-on
Torque Wrench, Adj. Click-type, U.S., Fixed, 50-250 ft. lb., 1/2" drive
Student Price: $142.56

Am I on track? : lol

 

[krusty the clown]

I thought Snap On torque wrenches were CDI?????

snap on scorces from both PI and CDI. the split beams are PI.


looks like the micrometer and dial TW's are PI also

http://www.torqwrench.com/

 

[Fast Orange]

Since you're getting a 50% discount on the SO stuff,let me put this out there for some thought and discussion-
I've had both the 3/8 and 1/2 techwrenches for several years-I don't use them everyday,but they see enough use to make the investment worthwhile.The benefit to these t-wrenches is the easy conversion from nm to in/lbs to ft/lbs-just push a button and the unit of measurement changes.No conversion tables,no calculator needed.For a new tech just getting a set of tools together,I feel these will serve you well-wide range in every specified unit of measurement,very accurate over the entire range of measurement,and very dependable.To take it 1 step further,go up a notch and go for the Tech-angle wrench-you'll be able to work to any torque spec or method (except bolt stretch) with only 2 tools.Unless you can find these same units as another brand and cheaper than from SO at your discount,you won't get a bigger bang for your money.

 

[idubvdub]

Fast Orange - thanks for the advise, I'm hungry for as much as I can get.
I was kinda thinking since my 1st question was answered I wouldn't get any feed back
regarding the 2 t-wrenches I chose based on the advise I'd been given... dead thread.
I'll have to call snap-on and see if any of their digital t-wrenches are available at a student discount, as they do not appear as one of the tools available for purchase.
As much as that would make my life 100% better, I'd rather not ('cause I know I would lol) rely on tech to convert things for me. When I'm in the field and time is $ I know my tune will change. I really hate the idea of becoming dependent on tech.

green or red right on:
1/4 FIXED 30 - 200 IN LB and
50-250 ft. lb., 1/2" drive
will that cover alot of the basics?
you all are awesome and can't thank you enough for sharing your
thoughts from personal experience.

 

[nissan_crawler]

I dislike non-ratcheting torque wrenches.

 

[Worsedog]

With your choice of ranges you will have a gap in your coverage. 200 in/lbs is only 16 ft/lbs. And 50 ft/lbs is too tight for most valvetrain gear and aluminum intake manifolds.
Just a little food for thought.


And while I pretty much love all things high tech, I think mechanical torque wrenches would be more durable than the electronic ones, but that is simply my opinion. YMMV on that one.

 

[idubvdub]

Worsedog: awesome man, can't thank you enough as I would have missed that and been
sol banging my head. I guess then another question is what is the lowest ft. lbs. I should try and get away with for at least a little while?
Would a wrench that goes to 150 ft. lbs. and fills the gap I would have be sufficient?

Edit:
Doing some quick research
Snap-ons 3/8_ 20-100 ft. lbs. would put me in range.
What kind of jobs would be out of my reach if 100 ft. lbs.
was the highest I was able to do?

Looks like I've found out why having 3 T. wrenches is a good idea.

 

[toolfreak]

I would get a 5-75 micrometer style and the 40-250 split beam to start with since you are just going with two for now.

 

[dxdexter]

If I could only have two wrenches for the automotive trade, then I would get a 3/8" drive (100 to 800 in.lb) and a 1/2" drive (25 to 250 ft.lb.). Preferably ratcheting head, but a ratcheting adapter will more than make up for the fixed head.

However a 1/2" drive (10 to 150 ft.lb.) would more than likely cover 90% of any torquing that would be required.

Tip: store a click type wrench with the setting at the lowest, never just put it back in the case after use. Unwind the handle.

 

[Worsedog]

I might get booed, but I twisted wrenches for 25 years without an in/lb wrench. My 3/8 drive goes from 10 to 100 and the 1/2 from 50 to 250. Also keep in mind, atleast with the mechanical wrenches that they are most accurate in the middle third of their range.

 

[dxdexter]

I might get booed, but I twisted wrenches for 25 years without an in/lb wrench. My 3/8 drive goes from 10 to 100 and the 1/2 from 50 to 250. Also keep in mind, atleast with the mechanical wrenches that they are most accurate in the middle third of their range.

I agree the in.lb wrench is hardly used, but nice to have when needed. Mine is 25 years old and looks like it was bought yesterday. Ten years in the trade (80's) and could probably count on two hands the number of times it was used.

I also don't trust a torque wrench at the extremes of its scale. Its like measuring 5lbs. on a bathroom scale.

 

[hamburglar]

It's good to hear people talking up the dial type wrenches. It's not a thing I use very often, but those click type wrenches scare the beejeepers out of me. I always just assumed that they were for production lines or to idiot-proof some sort of common procedure (don't they make fixed torque versions?).

 

[Lightning]

You should be able to use a good quality torque wrench from 20% full scale to full scale. It is a myth that they are only reliable in the middle third of the range.

 

[idubvdub]

Would you be missing the ability to torque a lot if you could only torque up to
say 100 ft.lbs.? That seems like a lot of force to me...

 

[jay50]

It's good to hear people talking up the dial type wrenches. It's not a thing I use very often, but those click type wrenches scare the beejeepers out of me. I always just assumed that they were for production lines or to idiot-proof some sort of common procedure (don't they make fixed torque versions?).

I use dial TW when installing AL intakes and OHC bolts. Too easy to strip them out with clickers IMHO>

 

[Treeman]

idubvdub,

Precision Instrument torque wrenches can be bought factory direct with a great student discount. Give them a call. The 250 lb. wrench will be welcomed if you torque lugs a lot or work on bigger vehicles (trucks, etc..).

Krusty, CDI makes SO micrometer wrenches. P.I. makes the 3/8 split beam while CDI or someone else makes the 1/2. The dial still look like PI.

Lightning is correct about TQ wrenches being accurate from 20% through their entire (100%) scale. What CDI told me is that it is easier (and less physical induced error) to torque lugs nuts to 90 ft. lb. all day with a longer 250 lb. wrench than a short 100 ft. lb. wrench.....and that is where the "use a wrench in the middle of it's scale" myth came from.

Jay50, do you have instances where the dial wrench is difficult to see? For the inch lb. wrench, it seems that this might be the place where the SO Tech. wrench might shine. You're going to be using it on more delicate fasteners and less likely to abuse the wrench (though, all TQ wrenches should be treated with kid gloves). The Tech wrench will show torque climbing as you use it (like a dial) and it will vibrate if you can't see the display at some odd angle.

I gleaned the above info talking with both CDI and PI techs this past winter when I bought new wrenches at my work place.

 

[jay50]

idubvdub,

Precision Instrument torque wrenches can be bought factory direct with a great student discount. Give them a call. The 250 lb. wrench will be welcomed if you torque lugs a lot or work on bigger vehicles (trucks, etc..).

Krusty, CDI makes SO micrometer wrenches. P.I. makes the 3/8 split beam while CDI or someone else makes the 1/2. The dial still look like PI.

Lightning is correct about TQ wrenches being accurate from 20% through their entire (100%) scale. What CDI told me is that it is easier (and less physical induced error) to torque lugs nuts to 90 ft. lb. all day with a longer 250 lb. wrench than a short 100 ft. lb. wrench.....and that is where the "use a wrench in the middle of it's scale" myth came from.

Jay50, do you have instances where the dial wrench is difficult to see? For the inch lb. wrench, it seems that this might be the place where the SO Tech. wrench might shine. You're going to be using it on more delicate fasteners and less likely to abuse the wrench (though, all TQ wrenches should be treated with kid gloves). The Tech wrench will show torque climbing as you use it (like a dial) and it will vibrate if you can't see the display at some odd angle.

I gleaned the above info talking with both CDI and PI techs this past winter when I bought new wrenches at my work place.

If I'm in a place where I can't see the needle, I rely on the memory needle. I just torque it a little at a time and remove the wrench to see where the memory needle is at; if still low, pull a little more on the handle. They make some dials TW with an audible alarm.

 

[nissan_crawler]

I use dial TW when installing AL intakes and OHC bolts. Too easy to strip them out with clickers IMHO>

That makes no sense. 50 inch lbs is 50 inch lbs, if both torque wrenches are calibrated and set to the same setting, they'll both strip out at the exact same time.

Personally, I hate dial ones, they're too damned clunky, and if you bump the face, the adjustment is off, not too mention a PITA to read. Give me a ratcheting clicker any day of the week.

Now...something I remind people of often is multiplying ft lbs by 12 for inch lbs, or dividing inch lbs by 12 for ft lbs. I know, it's a simple thing, but often over looked. a torque wrench that goes to 250 inch lbs (quite common) will cover all the way up to a torque wrench that starts at 20 ft lbs (240 inch lbs).

Lastly...depending on what you want, don't overlook the HF torque wrenches. I would say 100 mechanics at work have them, and I haven't heard of ONE of them failing calibration or being sent back for a problem. However, I and several other mechanics have had to send our Snap-On's off to get the cal fixed, and there's much less of them than the HF ones. My $9 1/2" torque wrench from Cummins tool truck is dead nuts on for cal. So are my $9 digital HF calipers, and $2.99 HF digital multimeter. Food for thought...

 

[Merkava_4]

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...6&group_ID=953&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...1&group_ID=958&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[idubvdub]

This has been a great read.
Thanks everyone for your thoughts and help, I've learned a lot of excellent
information

 

[eschoendorff]

That makes no sense. 50 inch lbs is 50 inch lbs, if both torque wrenches are calibrated and set to the same setting, they'll both strip out at the exact same time.

Personally, I hate dial ones, they're too damned clunky, and if you bump the face, the adjustment is off, not too mention a PITA to read. Give me a ratcheting clicker any day of the week.

Now...something I remind people of often is multiplying ft lbs by 12 for inch lbs, or dividing inch lbs by 12 for ft lbs. I know, it's a simple thing, but often over looked. a torque wrench that goes to 250 inch lbs (quite common) will cover all the way up to a torque wrench that starts at 20 ft lbs (240 inch lbs).

Lastly...depending on what you want, don't overlook the HF torque wrenches. I would say 100 mechanics at work have them, and I haven't heard of ONE of them failing calibration or being sent back for a problem. However, I and several other mechanics have had to send our Snap-On's off to get the cal fixed, and there's much less of them than the HF ones. My $9 1/2" torque wrench from Cummins tool truck is dead nuts on for cal. So are my $9 digital HF calipers, and $2.99 HF digital multimeter. Food for thought...

I was thinking the same thing... unless that clicker is in a bad state of repair...

Ditto on the HF tq wrenches... I have a couple and they were more accurate than the Husky ones I had to return three times to home depot. After that, I went with the Craftsman clickers. Mine have never given me a lick of trouble. But the HF ones are still there as back ups...

Again, if I were going to seriously consider a new torque wrench, I would also look at Proto.

 

[CamarosRus]

I just picked up SNAP ON 1/4" drive ............


Torque Wrench, Adj. Click Type, U.S., Fixed-Ratchet, 40-200 in. lb., 1/4" drive

Item Qty Price**
Torque Wrench, Adj. Click Type, U.S., Fixed-Ratchet, 40-200 in. lb., 1/4" drive
Stock#: QD1R200

$252.00 MSRP


Is this still a viable and accepted model.....????

 

[WSMC633]

I just picked up SNAP ON 1/4" drive ............


Torque Wrench, Adj. Click Type, U.S., Fixed-Ratchet, 40-200 in. lb., 1/4" drive

Item Qty Price**
Torque Wrench, Adj. Click Type, U.S., Fixed-Ratchet, 40-200 in. lb., 1/4" drive
Stock#: QD1R200

$252.00 MSRP


Is this still a viable and accepted model.....????

It's the current model, so I don't see why it wouldn't be acceptable!

I have:
40-200 in lb. 1/4" Drive
20-100 ft. lb. 3/8" Drive
50-250 ft lb. 1/2" Drive.

I build and maintain a lot of bikes. I actually use the in. lb one a lot. I could see working on cars not using it as much.

Don't worry about the Upper ranges. Just get your impact gun and run them bolts down as tight as possible.