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Torque Wrench - Brands

C

cpl

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Apr 30, 2012
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136
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Brazil
Hello

Im looking for a new torque wrench for engine building, since the one i already have isn't too good.


Im little on a budget.. can't expend 500u$ on a torque wrench..

What brands you recommend?

Looking on ebay found some stuff like PITTSBURGH, SNAP ON, BROWNLINE

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brownline-T...538?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6d0e28e2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Lot-of-...368?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec7071f50

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Snap-On...832?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b9f393a0

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CALIBRATED-...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item256bc2b3ba

Any thing on those brands?

And im looking for a torque wrench calibrator too.. its good tool to have..


Any helps from GJ ?
 
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Rezeppa

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Sep 23, 2012
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444
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Newport, MI
Look into CDI they manufacture most torque wrenches for Snap-On, Belknap, Caterpillar, and many others. One from CDI is significantly cheaper than a Snap-On.
 
B

bimmerZ5

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Avoid the Pittsburgh.. that's basically the cheap Harbor Freight brand... i have no problems with them, but I wouldn't trust them for engine building; probably fine for suspension and lugs. They can be had for $10 in the USA.

For Snap-On, you can just buy the CDI or Precision Instrument torque wrenches... that's what Snap-On rebrands. I think you can find CDI on Amazon from a vendor named Phillips Steel or something for a good price. These I would trust more, but I wouldn't buy used unless it came with a recent calibration certificate from a reputable place.

No experience with Brownline.

Also consider Gearwrench, both their click-type and electronic ones are very accurate.

If you're looking for a digital torque adapter to check the calibration on your torque wrench, I've had good experiences with the PowerBuilt branded ones. But the other brands look very similar so they might all be coming from the same factory just relabeled.
 
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C

cpl

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Brazil
Nice!

Thankz for your help bimmer.

I'm planning on get one of 1/2"

Looks like a quality product indeed
 
N

NHBandit

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East Tennessee
I've got a Sturtevant 1/2 drive click type torque wrench in an OD Green wooden box with military markings stencilled on the box. Just because it's my name. For everyday use I have Snap On.
 
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C

cpl

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Found few good options here in brazil:

http://www.lojadomecanico.com.br/pr...m-relogio-r250-70-340nm-com-encaixe-de-12-pol
http://www.lojadomecanico.com.br/produto/553/1/21/torquimetro-de-estalo-com-encaixe-de-12-pol

http://www.lojadomecanico.com.br/pr...m-relogio-r250-70-340nm-com-encaixe-de-12-pol

What about that gauge-style torque wrenchs like the last link above?
torquimetro_com_relogio_gedore_4506r_100.png
 
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K

kts

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Mar 9, 2012
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MD
bimmerZ5 said:
Avoid the Pittsburgh.. that's basically the cheap Harbor Freight brand...
Click to expand...

+1 to avoiding Pittsburgh. I bought one years ago and the first time I go to use it then head of it exploded on me sending screws and the spring clear across my garage.

As some others have said, check out CDI or Gearwrench. I've used my friends electronic Gesrwrench torque wrenches and they are nice. Ill probably be picking one up for myself soon.
 
P

pipsters

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The absolute must dead on accurate non-electronic torque wrench I've used is a beam style. The dial style is based on the same idea and just as if not even more accurate due to being able to easily read the torque's numerical value.

If you desire dead nuts accuracy that is repeatable I would get a beam (cheaper) or a dial (more expensive) torque wrench. Downside is they don't click when the correct torque is reached.
 
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C

cpl

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Hm

I dont like deflecting beam type ;/

Probably getting a dial type from gedore.. 25-140Nm #4506-R100

but the range of that isnt too good since i have few 1.2kg bolts
 
A

Applesauce

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Mar 12, 2013
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Canada, eh
I have two CDI, 3/8" 10-60 Nm and 1/2" 50-200 Nm, both clicky-articulated-head type, and like them both well enough. I haven't had them long enough to have them calibrated yet, but luckily the Canadian CDI distributor is in Calgary.

There are two things I don't like about them: they're both HUGE for their torque range, and the ratcheting heads have about six pawls* in them, so the swing arc is also huge.

*OK, maybe a few more than six...but you get the idea.
 
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C

cpl

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Looks very good indead cryan!

Will take a look



Btw. the dial torque wrenchs i found around here starts about 25nm..
But the CDI dial wrenchs says it starts measure on 0! that's right?

if it's, it's better... cause i have a range since 0, i'm right? :)
 
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bimmerZ5

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a few suggestions/comments...

1. if you get a dial-type, then try to get one that is sufficiently long or read the reviews. they are easier to control when they are long as it requires less force to generate the same amount of torque.

2. for most situations, it's more convenient to use click-type as you can "feel" when you hit your mark. the electronic ones you can usually "hear" ... the dial types you'll have to keep an eye on it or watch the "memory needle" if it has one.

3. for most torque wrenches, they are calibrated at 20%,60%, and 100% of their range. So, the accuracy is mostly between 20%-100%... if it is rated for 20Nm-70Nm, 20% is at 30Nm. So I would only use it for 30Nm-70Nm applications. Spring loaded "click-type" torque wrenches will not work near 0. Even beam-type torque wrenches, although rarely wear out, are not accurate at the low-end near 0... I had a beam-type for 0-150 ft-lbs, and it read 30ft-lbs when actual was like 20ft-lbs, but it got more accurate higher up the range where it was meant to be used.
 
T

tyndall

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Messages
311
Stay away from Snap-on/CDI unless it's a beam type. We had to adjust our calibration schedule down to six months because they are always failing. Doesn't matter if new or old. Our Protos and others (including Harbor Freight) get one year checks and they always pass.
 
S

Steinmetz

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tyndall said:
Stay away from Snap-on/CDI unless it's a beam type. We had to adjust our calibration schedule down to six months because they are always failing. Doesn't matter if new or old. Our Protos and others (including Harbor Freight) get one year checks and they always pass.
Click to expand...

I've taken CDI products (dial type torque wrenches) apart. I was surprised to find how poorly they're made. The older Snap On Torqometers were bulletproof.
 
S

Super Sport

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West Michigan
tyndall said:
Stay away from Snap-on/CDI unless it's a beam type. We had to adjust our calibration schedule down to six months because they are always failing. Doesn't matter if new or old. Our Protos and others (including Harbor Freight) get one year checks and they always pass.
Click to expand...

Why would anyone pay or take the time to calibrate a $10 HF TW?
 
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C

cpl

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Messages
136
Location
Brazil
bimmerZ5 said:
a few suggestions/comments...

1. if you get a dial-type, then try to get one that is sufficiently long or read the reviews. they are easier to control when they are long as it requires less force to generate the same amount of torque.

2. for most situations, it's more convenient to use click-type as you can "feel" when you hit your mark. the electronic ones you can usually "hear" ... the dial types you'll have to keep an eye on it or watch the "memory needle" if it has one.

3. for most torque wrenches, they are calibrated at 20%,60%, and 100% of their range. So, the accuracy is mostly between 20%-100%... if it is rated for 20Nm-70Nm, 20% is at 30Nm. So I would only use it for 30Nm-70Nm applications. Spring loaded "click-type" torque wrenches will not work near 0. Even beam-type torque wrenches, although rarely wear out, are not accurate at the low-end near 0... I had a beam-type for 0-150 ft-lbs, and it read 30ft-lbs when actual was like 20ft-lbs, but it got more accurate higher up the range where it was meant to be used.
Click to expand...

thank for the explanation
i never used dial type but it looks good on youtube videos hehe.

now.. about calibration, i knew it isn't good in the first 20%..
but that isn't true in dial types, right?

And i found a few dial types that the scale starts on 0.. and i tought it's good.. since you have readouts since 0 .. i'm right?



Now, CDI is poor then?
I'm probably getting one around here in brazil from GEDORE or RAVEN

I know gedore are worldwide brand.. but raven i dont know..

The gedore ones are dial or click style.. i'm trying to pick a nice range to work on..
 
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