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Torque wrench for old people

BuyMyGarage

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I woke up old the other day, and now I can’t do what I used to do.

Got the tires rotated (and some other repairs). Wife came home with the paper that says “torque all nuts to 140 lbs after 50 miles”.

Got out the torque wrench, it’s about 18 inches long, goes to 150.

between the knee, ankles, and wrist, I just can’t get to 140.

I searched here and elsewhere and got no definitive answer.

Can I use a pipe over the wrench to increase my leverage?
 
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bluedog225

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I dunno. I got by for decades just snugging them up good.

They make torque things for an impact drill. Though I hear mixed reviews.

Someone here will know.
 

428PI

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No. Do what I did. I went to a local tool store and bought an extra long one that goes up to 250 ft lbs to replace my old 250 lb one from OTC. It has a quick adjust handle too. Can't remember the brand name. I have an electronic one that's a bit shorter but it only goes up to 150 ft lbs too. Haven't used it in years but worked good when I did. It had a beeper that sounded when torque was reached.
 

isb cornbinder

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Can refers to one's ability. The question is, "Should I?" I do not see a problem with improving your mechanical advantage.
I am thinking those torque values, you mention, are for something like an F350.
I have alloy wheels on all of my vehicles. I stay around 100'# on my Ford with BBS wheels. The RAM 2500 gets the manufacturers suggested torque. I do not remember what that is.
 

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428PI

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I dunno. I got by for decades just snugging them up good.
Oh yea. I used a break over bar on all the wheels I got tight. I knew basically where 100 ft lbs were. Never had any problem that I know of. When I changed jobs owner insisted everything be torqued. I think we still had one or 2 come loose over the years. Hard on torque wrenches to use it that often. Finally ratchet end got bad. At cmax the last 6 years used torque sticks. I didn't like it but that's what they wanted. I don't think any came back either.
 

428PI

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If it's a a beam type, just get it over the past your hand would normally grip.
Maybe. But not real accurate perhaps. My beam style (real old fashioned one) has a pivot in the handle so to get real accurate one would have to have the handle not touching either end of beam.
 

unslow1

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Hopefully it's a clicker then using a cheater will be easy.

Most shops will be good with you running it back by and they send someone out with a torque wrench. Just call where you got the work done. Most people don't have a torque wrench.
 

whateg01

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Maybe. But not real accurate perhaps. My beam style (real old fashioned one) has a pivot in the handle so to get real accurate one would have to have the handle not touching either end of beam.
Doesn't matter. The torque at the clicker end is the same. The pivot in the handle doesn't really do anything.

I shouldn't say it doesn't do anything. It does help prevent the user from applying more "twist" but ultimately, the torque applied is just the force*distance
 
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428PI

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The pivot in the handle doesn't really do anything.
It may not change it much but certainly one is supposed to use the pivot to get the right torque. Perhaps you're thinking of only the clicker style. I'm thinking the older needle on the other end with a beam and handle that has a roll pin to hold handle to beam.
 

whateg01

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Haven't you seen the videos on youtube when one stands on a breaker bar trying to get lugnuts loose and their foot slips? It aint pretty.
I come here for entertainment. Which reminds me, OP, make sure you video it!

The pedal on my mountain bike came off the shaft back in 92 and I got a nice gash up the side of my leg.
 

bluedog225

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I thought torque wasn’t that great a measurement of appropriate bolt engagement anyway.
 

bluedog225

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Yeah. My thinking was close enough was close enough. Maybe the percieved virtues of good torque wrenches, attention to proper form, and detail give a false sense of accuracy.
 
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garfunkle24

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If you want the capability to do this in future get a digital torque adapter and whatever length of breaker bar you like. If not, swing by the tire shop you used and they'll probably do it for nothing or a small fee. Around here a lot of tire shops will do that for you even if you didn't get tires there.
 
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BuyMyGarage

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Interesting replies..

Should I be ‘pulling up’ to tighten or ‘pushing down down’ to tighten.

I have a reason for asking... but let’s see
 

Wrench97

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Interesting replies..

Should I be ‘pulling up’ to tighten or ‘pushing down down’ to tighten.

I have a reason for asking... but let’s see
Conventional wisdom says to push away from you as opposed to pull towards you to prevent injuries.

How long is your current torque wrench?
24" is about as long as you'll find in 1/2" drive without getting into pricy specialty models.
 

Grimpala

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Interesting replies..

Should I be ‘pulling up’ to tighten or ‘pushing down down’ to tighten.

I have a reason for asking... but let’s see
With wrenches and whatnot I generally pull towards me, but with blades I push away, unless it's a small blade and intricate work like cutting an apple with a pocket knife, etc... My thinking is that if the wrench slips I have more control over it coming towards me versus bashing knuckles into things that hurt, but if the blade slips I don't want to gash myself. My left hand pointer finger still aches at the first knuckle because I didn't listen to myself.
 

gearhead1

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If you want the capability to do this in future get a digital torque adapter and whatever length of breaker bar you like. If not, swing by the tire shop you used and they'll probably do it for nothing or a small fee. Around here a lot of tire shops will do that for you even if you didn't get tires there.
Exactly. Use a digital torque adapter and use as long as a lever as you need. Breaker bar with cheater pipe, no problem!

I got the previous version of this, took it to work where we had a calibrator and it was very accurate.

 

lolaetype

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Maybe. But not real accurate perhaps. My beam style (real old fashioned one) has a pivot in the handle so to get real accurate one would have to have the handle not touching either end of beam.
I wouldn't think that would matter, at least not on my old Craftsman torque wrench. The pointer is attached to the head of the wrench where the socket is attached and the scale the end of the pointer is between the handle and the head. The part of the beam that matters is between the head and scale. How you hold the handle or slipping a cheater bar over it shouldn't affect the reading.
 

GoToGuy_Ron

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It doesn't matter as long as your hand is holding the handle. The pivot is for comfort not applicable to torque ability. Think about it your force application is outside of the beam and indicator pointer. I have an old Mac that has fixed yellow handle , pivot or fixed what's your pleasure.
 

cannuck

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We have to do at least 5 changeovers each winter but #1 Son-in-law will do their 3 on his own if I am not around. He left my old 50-150 short clicker on seat of van and then took it to body shop...where the wrench disappeared. When I bought replacement (had to do it in a hurry or he would have done so for me) I went with another clicker, but a good half foot longer handle. Did one car with an old beam and pointer and realized how hard it was to read, so back to clicker. My daily use is a 3/8 Repco split beam I would dearly love to have supplemented with a similar 1/2" but no stock I could find in North America (came from Oz). I have an electronic extension for angle stuff so not worried about getting thousand dollar digitals - but admit the length issue came into consideration as I just turned 74 and my shop helper is only 12, so we both benefit from a bit more leverage these days.
 
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rlitman

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Interesting replies..

Should I be ‘pulling up’ to tighten or ‘pushing down down’ to tighten.

I have a reason for asking... but let’s see
I push down to tighten lugs, mainly because it's easier on the back.

Trying to get 140 ft-lbs out of a 150 ft-lb torque wrench isn't easy unless you're a gorilla. Just get the 250 ft-lb capacity wrench and move on. It's got a significantly longer handle. I don't have a truck, but the wheel bearing pre-load on my Subarus has been 137 ft-lbs, and I've used my TQFR250 for that job without difficulty.

The alternative would be for me to pull out my 3/4" torque wrench that has a 1/2" head on it. That goes to something like 350 ft-lbs, so my kid could reach 140 without too much trouble.
 

Zewnten

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The alternative would be for me to pull out my 3/4" torque wrench that has a 1/2" head on it. That goes to something like 350 ft-lbs, so my kid could reach 140 without too much trouble.
Model number of the torque wrench?
 

dchawk81

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I woke up old the other day, and now I can’t do what I used to do.

Got the tires rotated (and some other repairs). Wife came home with the paper that says “torque all nuts to 140 lbs after 50 miles”.

Got out the torque wrench, it’s about 18 inches long, goes to 150.

between the knee, ankles, and wrist, I just can’t get to 140.

I searched here and elsewhere and got no definitive answer.

Can I use a pipe over the wrench to increase my leverage?
Stop waking up old. 🤷
 
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