Torque Wrench Length

[Wamsutta]

How long do you need for 37 ft-lb + 120 degrees?

I'm tempted to get the shorter one so that I can feel the torque.

ATECH2F100GB 17.9 inches long

ATECH3F250GB 26.6 inches long

 

[plinker]

IME the 1/2 drive works better for angle as you really dont know how much torque output you have until you are doing it (it tells you when doing it). It's been fairly easy to max out the 3/8 wrench at times I've found. All depends on the fastener in question. Crank bolts for sure use the 1/2 wrench.

It might be Just me but the electronic wrenches dont have the same feel when torquing as a normal wrench. I actually watch the lights then the vibration & buzzer kick in.

 

[Mgdoug3]

I would go with the longer torque wrench. I know rod bolts for a JD 466 is 55 ft lbs then 90 degrees. My torque wrench said it was torqued to around 195 lbs after the turn.

 

[Wamsutta]

Plinker: How much torque would 37 ft-lb + 120 degrees end up being? Maybe a 5-100 ft-lb wrench can't go that high.

 

[plinker]

The max is 110lb for the 3/8 (10lb safety margin for overload, not much), More then that risks damaging the tool. I would say it depends on what you're doing. A crank bolt with around that same value was I think about 150lb or more.
I've done some ball joints & tie rods where it was similar 37lb + 90*/120* was around 70-80, IIRC. It seems to vary as to the exact amount of torque vs the the angle for whatever reason, bolt/thread size seems to play in to it as well.

I base it on instinct I guess as to whether or not to use the 3/8 or the 1/2 and default to the 1/2 just to be safe if I question it. It's really the better tool for angle work IMO.

Only reason I bought the 3/8 is the boss had a 1/2. It is faster to adjust then a manual wrench, except for maybe a PI split beam.

 

[californiaHank]

Pardon my ignorance, but isn't that a two tool job if you're doing it with hand tools? You tighten the bolt to 37 ft-lb, and then, with a different wrench, turn the fastener another 120 degrees? I would think that a torque wrench that read accurately in the 37 ft-lb range would be above its normal working range if you tried to turn the bolt another 120 degrees.

 

[BukitCase]

dunno, but wouldn't the final torque depend on thread pitch? There's quite a bit of difference between 11 pitch on a 5/8 bolt and 18 pitch - 1/2 turn difference between the two pitches is over .017" difference in "squish" ... Steve

Edit - guess I need to type faster :=)

 

[plinker]

Pardon my ignorance, but isn't that a two tool job? You tighten the bolt to 37 ft-lb, and then, with a different wrench, turn the fastener another 120 degrees? I would think that a torque wrench that read accurately in the 37 ft-lb range would be damaged if you tried to turn the bolt another 120 degrees.

Sort of.

The wrench has a built in max torque of 110lb for the 3/8, 250lb or 300lb for the 1/2 depending on vintage (IIRC). To use the angle function you switch it over to that after torquing to 37lb and it will display current foot pound output when you pause doing an angle torque. It will also display the torque when done. It's programmed to take the ratcheting action into account with the angle function.

The problem lies with this, say you want to torque your crank bolt, example being the 37lb + 120*, you could max out the torque wrench before you reach the 120*. Not really a problem for the 1/2 drive unit as it can go up to 250lb or so, but you need to be aware of it with the 3/8 unit as it'll be easier to overload it and damage it.

Common sense comes into play since you can potentially exceed the design limitations of either tool. There are times where other methods of achieving angle torque are better.

 

[dnschmidt]

This is the reason I use two separate tools for this job. A digital torque wrench followed by a digital angle gauge. The ones I use are made by Eclatorq. You completely eliminate the over range problem (which is a significant problem) by doing it this way. If you want to cheap out that's typically easy since most specs are based on the hex bolt points of 60, 120 and 180 degrees. Just buy a paint marker and mark the point of one of the hexes and a point 60 or 120 degrees where the next hex points are on the area next to the bolt. Use a breaker or ratchet to line up the marks and you're golden. Also, this is an excellent way of telling if you've already torqued the bolt. With torque to yield fasteners you only get one shot.

 

[marineman]

For the record 38 plus 90 degrees on a Detroit rocker shaft is mid 50s. An extra 30 degrees could get up there a ways

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[Lprock]

Torqued the crank bolts on a Cursor 12.9, 89 ft lbs then 90°. Had to use a 3ft long 3/4 breaker bar to get them 90°. My 1/2 air gun couldn't break them when I took the flywheel off, had use a 3/4 gun.