Torque Wrench Recommendations

[cashwood]

This is my first post to this forum and I apologize if I am posting incorrectly or in the wrong section. Very interesting forum, I really enjoy reading the different threads.

My question is I am ready to buy a quality torque wrench. Since I need it for automotive related jobs, Id imagine a 1/2" torque wrench that can torque up to 275-300 foot pounds should do the job. Am I right with that thinking? I do most suspension and body work and little to no engine work so I believe the 1/2 drives would be the best option for me to buy first. Maybe 3/8" in the future.

My real question is what brand should I go with. There are the obvious high end ones but they cost an arm and a leg. Is there a company out there that offers and accurate and reliable torque wrench for a decent price (hopefully with a good warranty also). I have also looked at taking the route of buying a used Snap-On one. Opinions?

I know I can go to harbor freight and get one for next to nothing but I am looking for accuracy and quality. I dont want my torque specs to be 10 foot pounds off and unsafe because I skimped out on buying a good wrench. Looking to spend between $100-$250

Thanks!

 

[48548]

American made Precision instruments... They used to make them for snapon and the split beam don't have to be set back to zero.

 

[dnschmidt]

You will very seldom use a torque wrench of the size you are discussing. Modern automotive engines seldom use torque values above 50 ft-lb and many of these are in torque to yield applications where you torque to a relatively low value <30 ft-lb and then turn a specific number of degrees to stretch the bolt.

For suspension work something that goes up to 150 ft-lb should be adequate.

Precision Instruments split beam in my opinion are the way to go. The model number you want is C3FR250F and this goes from 40 ft-lb to 250 ft-lb. I find that to be too high on the low end for engine work but for suspension this should be OK.

 

[cashwood]

You will very seldom use a torque wrench of the size you are discussing. Modern automotive engines seldom use torque values above 50 ft-lb and many of these are in torque to yield applications where you torque to a relatively low value <30 ft-lb and then turn a specific number of degrees to stretch the bolt.

For suspension work something that goes up to 150 ft-lb should be adequate.

Precision Instruments split beam in my opinion are the way to go. The model number you want is C3FR250F and this goes from 40 ft-lb to 250 ft-lb. I find that to be too high on the low end for engine work but for suspension this should be OK.

What you have said is correct. But after tearing Jeeps apart so many times I do know of the areas that need a little more than 150 ftlbs. Its rare, but they are there. I am getting of tired of having to use a buddies good torque wrench to torque an axle nut to 175ftlbs. Its not that I need it, just would like to have it kinda thing. The higher torque range will get rarely used.

 

[cashwood]

American made Precision instruments... They used to make them for snapon and the split beam don't have to be set back to zero.

is this what you are speaking of?

http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-...scplp6825138&gclid=CMOjs4rtscwCFQ-oaQodZm0B4g

 

[48548]

This one, like Dennis said.

http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/item.php?StockCode=C3FR250F

 

[48548]

is this what you are speaking of?

http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-...scplp6825138&gclid=CMOjs4rtscwCFQ-oaQodZm0B4g

This one is not a splitbeam.

 

[lightning02]

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=PREC3FR250F

 

[cashwood]

This one, like Dennis said.

http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/item.php?StockCode=C3FR250F

Can you explain to me what the purpose of a split beam torque wrench is?
Is it worth the extra money?

Thanks for all the help!

 

[cashwood]

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=PREC3FR250F

Is that a reliable website/seller? Looks shady lol.

 

[lightning02]

Is that a reliable website/seller? Looks shady lol.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=321017

 

[L.Cheapo]

I know its a little above your price range, but I used my new 1/2" Snap On Techangle for the first time the other day...and I will never use a click type again. What a fantastic tool. Calibrated, certified, smooth, accurate. Measures 5 or 6 different values, including angle. Super nice. 12.5-250ftlbs. Bought it right before Christmas when they were on sale, and my driver knocked off some more.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

My SK is a damn fine tool for $50 previously owned(not sure it was ever used).

 

[Adam.C]

I know its a little above your price range, but I used my new 1/2" Snap On Techangle for the first time the other day...and I will never use a click type again. What a fantastic tool. Calibrated, certified, smooth, accurate. Measures 5 or 6 different values, including angle. Super nice. 12.5-250ftlbs. Bought it right before Christmas when they were on sale, and my driver knocked off some more.

Not sure what model you have. I have the gray handled models. You can buy these used and broken on ebay for cheap and send them to Snap on for repair. Snap On offers a 1 or 3 year warranty on these. After that, you have to pay for warranty service, about $70 if I recall correctly. So you aren't cheating anybody by buying one beat up and sending it in for calibration. They typically refurb to the more reliable end cap, which may give you a new handle. (not the latest model).

These are fantastic tools, highly recommended. Angle reqts are going to become more common all over the car. I wouldn't pay much for a non digital non angle reading torque wrench.

 

[guy48065]

Can you explain to me what the purpose of a split beam torque wrench is?
Is it worth the extra money?

Thanks for all the help!

A split beam doesn't cost any more than any quality US-made torque wrench. They use a different mechanism that doesn't employ a stiff spring pushing on a pivoting block or bearing--so it won't weaken if you forget to dial it down for storage. That's a huge convenience.

 

[guy48065]

I'll also be contrary and caution against digital torque wrenches. While I like them for their better accuracy, I don't like the fact they don't "break over" at the set point. A regular clicker instantly drops off the applied force when it clicks so you don't over-shoot. A digital only makes noise/light (the $500 Techwrench and Techangle also vibrate the handle). If you aren't paying attention, going too fast, or in a noisy shop you can easily go past the setting and overtorque.

 

[JAKE-THE-TOOL-MAN]

I would recommend investing in a high end electric one with multiple settings. I bought 1/2 and 3/8 used Snapon tech wrenches from a member on here and liked them so much that I picked up a used 1/4 also.

 

[Adam.C]

I'll also be contrary and caution against digital torque wrenches. While I like them for their better accuracy, I don't like the fact they don't "break over" at the set point. A regular clicker instantly drops off the applied force when it clicks so you don't over-shoot. A digital only makes noise/light (the $500 Techwrench and Techangle also vibrate the handle). If you aren't paying attention, going too fast, or in a noisy shop you can easily go past the setting and overtorque.

Snap On invented and patented their digital torque wrenches' "early warning system" specifically to prevent the over torquing they discovered that occurs when mechanics pull hard into the release of a click type torq wrench.

I'm not 100% convinced the electronic tool is necessarily more accurate than a clicker, but Snap On discovered most mechanics are more accurate with digital wrenches.

My opinion is that the digital wrenches are nice because you can change units easily, you don't have to exercise it, no need to set it back to zero, and they do angles.

 

[T45]

If you are not using it with space constraints, I would avoid a micrometer clicker. In 1/2 drive I agree the precision dual beam is probably the preferred route. Micrometer clickers are good for low profile (space constraint) and blind use applications (where you need the click). But 1/2 drive that is mostly on suspension and body work that you are using a impact to take it apart, you can use whatever type of torque wrench will fit.

The overtorque issues IMHO are poor technique. Maybe excusable in a time constrained environment, but not generally so. Sticktion willl trigger overtorque if you stop between 80 and 100% of target torque. So this is why using a dial or using 80% to 100% two step process is important, and a slow even force to final torque.

The siimpler designs the better if you are on a budget. Torque wrench is a very easy way to damage something, because the lever arm is so large and fals confidence users have with no intermediate indication of torqu value or a tools that has gone out of calibration. The extra momentum when you crank and overshoot stuff is the problem, the click is not a full proof force damper.

The downside to good technique and using dials wrenches is they are either slower and possibly more tedious or they don't always provide the most compact/tool option. so this is why there is alot of choice.

 

[VAGtech]

4% accuracy? Harbor Freight has the same lol

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

4% accuracy? Harbor Freight has the same lol

And?

 

[pi_guy]

When you have warning lights and beeps it is harder to miss the target.

There are applications for all of them, dial versions are good for preload and other specs. I have several the digital and clicker type versions. One thought is the digital units are not good in the rain or being tossed about in a tire change thrash.

 

[L.Cheapo]

Not sure what model you have. I have the gray handled models. You can buy these used and broken on ebay for cheap and send them to Snap on for repair. Snap On offers a 1 or 3 year warranty on these. After that, you have to pay for warranty service, about $70 if I recall correctly. So you aren't cheating anybody by buying one beat up and sending it in for calibration. They typically refurb to the more reliable end cap, which may give you a new handle. (not the latest model).

These are fantastic tools, highly recommended. Angle reqts are going to become more common all over the car. I wouldn't pay much for a non digital non angle reading torque wrench.

This is mine:

I believe this is the newer model without the problematic end cap? It better be, its less than 6 months old and I bought it new.
The end cap seems particularly stout, as if it was designed to fix the previous design.

 

[L.Cheapo]

I'll also be contrary and caution against digital torque wrenches. While I like them for their better accuracy, I don't like the fact they don't "break over" at the set point. A regular clicker instantly drops off the applied force when it clicks so you don't over-shoot. A digital only makes noise/light (the $500 Techwrench and Techangle also vibrate the handle). If you aren't paying attention, going too fast, or in a noisy shop you can easily go past the setting and overtorque.

I cant speak for other models, but my techangle is easier to use properly and therefore more accurate than any click type. It uses 5 sets of LEDs to tell you when you're getting close--it resembles the "tree" at a drag strip. With a click type, you have no idea exactly when it's going to "click". And when it does, you don't know by how much you went over. With a techangle, when you reach the set torque, you're reaching the green lights, it beeps, and it vibrates. You can also watch the numbers climb on the display so you know exactly where you are at all times. And then, when it tells you to stop, it holds the torque value ACTUALLY applied for a few seconds. I did 10 lugnuts with it, and I kept 9 of them between 100 and 101 ftlbs. The one that went over was 101.1.

4% accuracy? Harbor Freight has the same lol

Techangles are 2%. And those HFs are well documented to be 4%. Sometimes 4% of their scale, sometimes 4% of the national debt. Repeatability is just as important as accuracy. If something is important enough for me to break out a torque wrench, its important enough to be 100% sure it's accurate.

 

[Wamsutta]

When it comes to torque wrenches, I only buy Snap-on.

 

[Pipe]

When it comes to torque wrenches, I only buy Snap-on.

Me too. If it's important enough to be "torqued" then it should be done the best way possible.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk

 

[Treeman]

Study any engineering site about torque variables and technique to learn that the process is about +/- 25% accuracy, making a lot of this discussion somewhat moot (i.e.- 2% vs. 4% wrench, mechanics straining and convorting on a rusty or lubed fasterner, etc.).

The best one can do is to learn and study what torque is all about, use the proper tool properly, and realize its limitations. Many think that a high end tool automatically equates to excellent results. It's similar to the caliper vs. micrometer thing.

http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Screws/Preloading.html

Operator "Feel" +/- 35%
Torque Wrench +/- 25%
Angle Torquing (Turn of nut) +/- 15%
Load Indicating Washer +/- 10%
Measuring Bolt elongation +/- 5%
Hydraulic Bolt pretension +/- (1% to 10%)
Strain Gauges / Ultrasonics +/- 1%
Superbolt multi-jackbolt tensioners +/- 5%

 

[brownbagg]

i like proto

 

[PowerFreak]

I have armstrong 1/2" and 3/8" torque wrenches, I like 'em.

 

[Adam.C]

This is mine:

I believe this is the newer model without the problematic end cap? It better be, its less than 6 months old and I bought it new.
The end cap seems particularly stout, as if it was designed to fix the previous design.

Yes, that one is fantastic. No end cap problems. It has a better bigger screen than mine, does more units, and. Think the handle is better made. I would love to have a set of those, maybe when the price comes down a little.

I just saw colored versions on the truck last week that looked pretty bad ***. All the chrome was shiny black and the handles were orange, green and red

 

[Adam.C]

Study any engineering site about torque variables and technique to learn that the process is about +/- 25% accuracy, making a lot of this discussion somewhat moot (i.e.- 2% vs. 4% wrench, mechanics straining and convorting on a rusty or lubed fasterner, etc.).

The nice thing about the digital models is you can get a sense for the "prevailing" or run down torque. From an engineering perspective, all we really care about is the bolt stretch. If the prevailing torque is high, we get less stretch for a given installation torque. Well, if you don't have an angle requirement, you can watch the prevailing torque, just to check and all your fasteners have the same resistance. Old mechanics do this by feel.

I think I read that of the installation torque you apply 40% is lost due to friction in the threads, another 40% is lost in friction under the head. So you are only stretching the bolt with 20% of your torque value.

 

[jptbay]

Norbar or CDI.

 

[dutchgray]

Norbar or CDI.

I have a CDI and 3 Norbar's so I would agree with that.

 

[Certified Drunk]

I just bought a Snap On 1/2" click style...
I can normally get 20% off and no sales tax by paying Cash.

 

[AA/FC]

A few weeks ago one of the members of this site posted a picture of a digital Snap On torque wrench that he bought used somewhere. The first thing I noticed was the "CE" logo printed on the side of the wrench. For those who don't know, CE stands for "China Export", which means it came from China.

This torque wrench that was posted here had me scratching my head. Who in the hell would pay Snap On tool truck pricing for a tool made in China? I'm not saying the member here who bought it used is crazy, because I'm sure he got a great deal on it. But to pay brand new truck pricing for a Chinese tool is absurd. I gladly pay new SO prices because the main line tools are made here in the USA. This torque wrench.... not so much.

Now don't get me wrong, I LOVE Snap On tools as much as anyone on this site. In fact, I do believe that anything made from steel (metal), in a SO factory, here in the USA is absolutely of the highest quality. Sockets, ratchets, wrenches, pliers, etc... any mainline tool made from steel in a SO factory is high quality. These are the items I buy from Snap On.

I always thought SO owned CDI, and made all their torque wrenches here in the USA? I guess I leaned something new.


China Export

 

[crab]

I've seen Snap-On tools that were stamped made in China at Costco. Guess they sold the rights to the name.

 

[Fcvapor05]

A few weeks ago one of the members of this site posted a picture of a digital Snap On torque wrench that he bought used somewhere. The first thing I noticed was the "CE" logo printed on the side of the wrench. For those who don't know, CE stands for "China Export", which means it came from China.

This torque wrench that was posted here had me scratching my head. Who in the hell would pay Snap On tool truck pricing for a tool made in China? I'm not saying the member here who bought it used is crazy, because I'm sure he got a great deal on it. But to pay brand new truck pricing for a Chinese tool is absurd. I gladly pay new SO prices because the main line tools are made here in the USA. This torque wrench.... not so much.

Now don't get me wrong, I LOVE Snap On tools as much as anyone on this site. In fact, I do believe that anything made from steel (metal), in a SO factory, here in the USA is absolutely of the highest quality. Sockets, ratchets, wrenches, pliers, etc... any mainline tool made from steel in a SO factory is high quality. These are the items I buy from Snap On.

I always thought SO owned CDI, and made all their torque wrenches here in the USA? I guess I leaned something new.


China Export

The REAL 'CE' mark is a certification that a product meets european standards and is safe for sale in the European Union.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CE_marking

"CE" originated as an abbreviation of Conformité Européenne, meaning European Conformity",

A few years ago Chinese companies began using a very similar (but not identical) marking in a blatant attempt to try and push product in Europe that wasn't safety tested to European standards.

This is obviously confusing, but it's the fault of Chinese companies deliberately misleading people, not of Snap-On or Proto or anyone else who makes tools. The CE mark on a Snap-On techwrench, for example, represents European conformity, NOT 'China Export'. Snap-on torque wrenches are made in the USA.

Diagram of 'European Conformity' and 'China Export' stamps next to each other:

The difference is slight, but noticeable.

Keep in mind that the penalties for a company selling non-rated products in Europe is EXTREMELY stiff. If you see a CE mark on a tool or other item from a known, reputable manufacturer, odds are very good that it's a legitimate European conformity mark. If you see a similar mark on an el-cheapo tool or appliance, proceed with caution.

 

[Badger Rob]

I also agree with CDI. I now own 3: 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" (inch/pounds). Worth the investment.

 

[AA/FC]

....The CE mark on a Snap-On techwrench, for example, represents European conformity, NOT 'China Export'. Snap-on torque wrenches are made in the USA.

Thank you, Sir. I stand corrected..... and I am very glad that I was wrong!

 

[BrokewrenchLS1]

Study any engineering site about torque variables and technique to learn that the process is about +/- 25% accuracy, making a lot of this discussion somewhat moot (i.e.- 2% vs. 4% wrench, mechanics straining and convorting on a rusty or lubed fasterner, etc.).

The best one can do is to learn and study what torque is all about, use the proper tool properly, and realize its limitations. Many think that a high end tool automatically equates to excellent results. It's similar to the caliper vs. micrometer thing.

http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Screws/Preloading.html

Operator "Feel" +/- 35%
Torque Wrench +/- 25%
Angle Torquing (Turn of nut) +/- 15%
Load Indicating Washer +/- 10%
Measuring Bolt elongation +/- 5%
Hydraulic Bolt pretension +/- (1% to 10%)
Strain Gauges / Ultrasonics +/- 1%
Superbolt multi-jackbolt tensioners +/- 5%

Yep. Torque wrenches are more for consistency than anything else. Materials (black oxide vs zinc-plated as an example) and thread compounds (anti-seize, Loctite, etc) all change the coefficient of friction, which can change the amount of tension put on the threads at a given torque value...none of which seems to be discussed much. Add in using old fasteners and torque values are more of a rough estimate than anything.

Also, I'll verify the CE mark info - the real CE mark is for compliance to EN/IEC standards, in part, although just because something has a CE mark doesn't mean it's been safety tested, only that it's RF compliant. The "knockoff" CE marking is used by a lot of Chinese manufacturers to make people think their products have gone through CE testing - hence the similarity of marking - actually becoming very common with Chinese-produced brick-style power transformers.