I'm looking at getting a couple torque wrenches. I have a few Harbor Freight clicker-type wrenches and have used them for easy to reach places or places I can double and triple check. I've been wanting to upgrade for a while though. I'm debating what type and brand to get. I don't really like the beam types, although simple and probably less likely to go out of calibration. The older Snap-On Torq-O-Meters look really nice but I'm debating if anyone still uses that dial type much anymore, and having to buy a used one I may be weary on how or if it is calibrated. I like the S-K and Proto types. I basically am looking for a 1/2" drive, 250 Ft Lbs. torque wrench and a 1/4" drive, 0-150 or 250+ in. lbs. for the smaller bolts. Thanks.
Torque wrench suggestions
- Thread starter Codyyy
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RunninOnEmpty
Well-known member
Split beam is best. Calibration lasts much longer than the micrometer "click" type. Precision Instruments or the Snap On versions of those (which look the same except red). Precision Instruments is something like $150 for the 1/2" new.
CDI is very good for micrometers.
CDI is very good for micrometers.
rcjoy
Well-known member
I like the Proto 250 ft lb clicker, as it has a longer handle than most other brands. The extra leverage really makes it easier to use.
RedneckWelder
Well-known member
I like the SO split beam ones a lot like this style http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1UOAM/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Currently using a click style micrometer one while I'm in school but I plan to pick up a 3/8 and 1/2 in the split beam thumb wheel style next year.
Currently using a click style micrometer one while I'm in school but I plan to pick up a 3/8 and 1/2 in the split beam thumb wheel style next year.
ditto with what others above are saying.
Have you looked at Precision Instruments Split Beam Torque wrenches? They're very different in appearance from traditional beam wrenches. Look similar to clicker styles, however they dont have to be put down to zero after use, they maintain their calibration for a very long time. Great torque wrenches, very happy with both my 3/8s and 1/2.
Have you looked at Precision Instruments Split Beam Torque wrenches? They're very different in appearance from traditional beam wrenches. Look similar to clicker styles, however they dont have to be put down to zero after use, they maintain their calibration for a very long time. Great torque wrenches, very happy with both my 3/8s and 1/2.
skylinegtr20
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CDI or Precision Instruments.
Jarhead0408
Well-known member
Here's a Precision Instruments 1/2" split beam from Tooltopia for $128.95 shipped:
http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-c3fr250f.aspx
I have used these when I worked at a tire shop. Absolutely love them. I'm buying another one for home use soon.
http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-c3fr250f.aspx
I have used these when I worked at a tire shop. Absolutely love them. I'm buying another one for home use soon.
Jarhead0408
Well-known member
If you look on the left side of the TW right above the grip, you'll see what looks like a flat piece of metal. It's held in place by a spring on the inside. Flip the piece down and you'll have an adjustment knob for setting the torque. Once you've set the torque, just flip the piece back up and you are good to go.
Much faster and easier than the HF type that you have to twist and lock from the bottom.
The knob is very easy to turn and doesn't get harder with higher torque settings.
Much faster and easier than the HF type that you have to twist and lock from the bottom.
The knob is very easy to turn and doesn't get harder with higher torque settings.
Jarhead0408
Well-known member
The flex portion is actually pretty stiff. It naturally flexes about a 1/2 inch in order to get the TW a little farther from the wheel when you are setting wheel torque, but after that 1/2 it's nice and stiff. No flop whatsoever.
Best? Best are the electronic models. And best for several reasons:
1) More accurate
2) Never really loose calibration
3) Ability to check torque value prior to achieving target torque (good for measuring torque)
4) no break in required, good to go out of the box.
My advice would be to buy a used techwrench. I believe I read a thread here about repairing them. Might find a good deal on one that "won't power up". Pretty sure that was a simple fix. Might be worth a try.
Otherwise, its good to consider what you actually need. If you are doing engine building, you will need a 3/8" drive and a way to measure angle. The older gray handled techwrench does that.
I've been studying torque at work and I'm reaching the conclusion that we should probably be measuring rundown torque (properly called prevailing torque) and checking each fastener in the pattern, then making sure installation torque is increased for any fasteners with higher prevailing numbers. So much of the torque we apply is lost in friction. My guess is, we are all under torquing stuff if we aren't using new clean hardware for everything.
Installation Torque = Prevailing Torque + Net Torque
Installation is what we set our wrenches to
Prevailing is the torque lost due to friction and locking
Net Torque is the torque that actually stretches the bolt. It is all engineers care about. But we don't do a good job communicating this (as engineers) or measuring/ensuring it (as mechanics).
1) More accurate
2) Never really loose calibration
3) Ability to check torque value prior to achieving target torque (good for measuring torque)
4) no break in required, good to go out of the box.
My advice would be to buy a used techwrench. I believe I read a thread here about repairing them. Might find a good deal on one that "won't power up". Pretty sure that was a simple fix. Might be worth a try.
Otherwise, its good to consider what you actually need. If you are doing engine building, you will need a 3/8" drive and a way to measure angle. The older gray handled techwrench does that.
I've been studying torque at work and I'm reaching the conclusion that we should probably be measuring rundown torque (properly called prevailing torque) and checking each fastener in the pattern, then making sure installation torque is increased for any fasteners with higher prevailing numbers. So much of the torque we apply is lost in friction. My guess is, we are all under torquing stuff if we aren't using new clean hardware for everything.
Installation Torque = Prevailing Torque + Net Torque
Installation is what we set our wrenches to
Prevailing is the torque lost due to friction and locking
Net Torque is the torque that actually stretches the bolt. It is all engineers care about. But we don't do a good job communicating this (as engineers) or measuring/ensuring it (as mechanics).
Qualitytools
Well-known member
A torque wrench is a precision instrument and if you are going thru the trouble to torques something you want it to be as accurate as possible. My recommendation since you're asking is to look at torque wrenches made by NORBAR. I have 3 of them and they are excellent, this company only makes torque wrenches so search them out you will not regret it or be disappointed.
Let us know what you decide on!!
Let us know what you decide on!!
I really like the PI torque wrenches. They're accurate and give a nice crisp/loud click when torque is reached. (unlike some where you can barely hear the click).
Another option is the Husky torque wrenches. They're actually made in the USA by Armstrong and good value.
Another option is the Husky torque wrenches. They're actually made in the USA by Armstrong and good value.
Precision Instruments made the split beam torque wrenches for Snap On for many years...same thing just different colored inserts (red vs blue).
Funny watching people on eBay bid $300 for a used Snap On when they could get the exact same wrench from Precision Instruments brand new for $175.
n8n
Well-known member
I like those but be aware they only work in the clockwise direction. If you have an old MoPar or Studebaker (or something else that uses LHT fasteners) you won't be able to use it on those.
If that is a concern to you, I would look for pawn shop Snap-On clickers or CDI.
ninjamunky85
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I recently upgraded from the HF torque wrenches to the Husky ones from Home Depot. The 3/8 and 1/2" ones are made in U.S.A. and are sold under other brand names for more money. The 1/4" is made in Taiwan and is the same wrench as the precision Instruments one.
Edit: not split beam but clicker style
Edit: not split beam but clicker style
Greasymofo
Well-known member
I got a snap on 1/2 and Marco 3/8 flex head torque wrench from a guy on cl for 140$$ and they look brand new in the hard cases. Look around man
Greasymofo
Well-known member
Matco I meant
SMKS
Well-known member
Now that I own a torque adapter I can use for checking torque wrenches, I think people are overblowing how long it takes for a (properly used and stored) click-type torque wrench to go out of calibration.
My experience has been that properly stored and used torque wrenches will be accurate for a long time. My 15-year-old Craftsman torque wrench and my 5-year-old HF torque wrenches were still in spec when I checked them.
Heck, I even checked a well-abused torque wrench I rented from the autoparts store and it was pretty dang close.
Long story short, if you find a good deal on a new click-type torque wrench go ahead and get it. I have nothing against split beam torque wrenches, but I don't think you should discount normal clicker wrenches just because of some of the comments in this thread.
My experience has been that properly stored and used torque wrenches will be accurate for a long time. My 15-year-old Craftsman torque wrench and my 5-year-old HF torque wrenches were still in spec when I checked them.
Heck, I even checked a well-abused torque wrench I rented from the autoparts store and it was pretty dang close.
Long story short, if you find a good deal on a new click-type torque wrench go ahead and get it. I have nothing against split beam torque wrenches, but I don't think you should discount normal clicker wrenches just because of some of the comments in this thread.
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Good point. I think the most important is to take care of them (don't drop them). I just got my Precision Instrument split beams (same as Snap On split beam) calibrated by PI for the first time after 7 years. Not sure if they needed it since I didn't pay the extra $20 for certifications to see before/after, but I'm starting a race engine build and wanted to be safe.
RunninOnEmpty
Well-known member
But finding a good deal on a clicker could be hard when the Precision Instruments split beams cost so little. Honestly it boggles my mind that they are so inexpensive considering how good they are.
I would, for example, easily pay the $128 new for a Precision Instruments over, say, an $80 used Snap On CDI micrometer. Price is too close. But if I got a CDI for $50, heck yes.
Coach James
Well-known member
When I can get a new, excellent quality TW for under $150, I wouldn't spend any time looking for a used one.
Coach
Coach
I just got a Mac TWP275 torque wrench for cheap. The description of it wasn't very helpful on the tool specifications but I'm assuming that it is a 1/4" drive, 675 in. lbs. torque wrench. It is a flex head too which is a bonus. Now I need to find the 1/2" wrench.
Like you like the flex-head design, working on motorcycles rarely need anything more than a 1/2 has to offer.
SMKS
Well-known member
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Farmall450
Well-known member
I've got one as well, and the long length is stellar. Easy to torque pretty much anything while sitting on a stool.
Don't know if it was mentioned already, but one of the benefits of a split beam is you don't have to set the torque down to the lowest setting after use like you should with a micrometer type torque wrench.
Thanks for the pic. So the split beams still "clicks" when the set torque is achieved?
RunninOnEmpty
Well-known member
Do any of you guys still use the single beam type torque wrenches? The reason I ask is because I went into my local "old school" auto parts store that I know carries S-K Tools. They had the 250 lb. torque wrench I needed but it is a bit spendy. The guy there suggested I just get a beam type, he says they rarely go out of calibration unless it goes through some extreme temperature changes. He says he checks his clicker-type torque wrenches off of the beam ones as a cheap way to make sure they are decent.
I'm debating buying a decent beam type for now until I can save up enough to get a better one. Plus I could use that beam one to check accuracy (if it is accurate to begin with). I was originally weary of this idea but with some of the bigger bolts and nuts that need a lot of torque it may not be as inaccurate on. Thanks.
I'm debating buying a decent beam type for now until I can save up enough to get a better one. Plus I could use that beam one to check accuracy (if it is accurate to begin with). I was originally weary of this idea but with some of the bigger bolts and nuts that need a lot of torque it may not be as inaccurate on. Thanks.
After researching a bit more I have found it is harder if not almost impossible to find a beam type that is over 150 ft. lbs. Maybe a 3/4" drive might work but it seems like a waste to buy that and then buy the adapter or 3/4" drive sockets to work with that.
I think Lowes or Home Depot has a Matco torque wrench that is under another brand name for about 30% of the price compared to off the truck. Somebody will have to post up and confirm the specifics.
I still have a beam style torque wrench in 1/2 drive 150 ft lb. I bought it from J&P cycles. I am actually gonna be selling it if you are interested in it feel free to PM me. I will be out the rest of the day, so I will check back later.
When I started, I used Craftsman USA beam styles, they take some practice, but I feel that they are more accurate. Clicker is so much more easy and quick to use. Problem with beam is you can easily overtorque if your not careful