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Torque Wrench?
- Thread starter Jerelld13
- Start date
SMKS
Well-known member
A lot of people will tell you to go by "feel," but that's an especially bad way to do it if you're new to wrenching. If you go that route, you'll be learning by stripping hardware.
Owning and using torque wrenches pretty important if you want to be a moderate or serious DIY'er. I don't torque every single bolt, but generally when my manual lists a torque spec I follow it.
There are tons of threads on this topic here on GJ, but if you're short on cash a HF torque wrench or a beam torque wrench is a good place to start. Learn how to use them and you can go from there.
Owning and using torque wrenches pretty important if you want to be a moderate or serious DIY'er. I don't torque every single bolt, but generally when my manual lists a torque spec I follow it.
There are tons of threads on this topic here on GJ, but if you're short on cash a HF torque wrench or a beam torque wrench is a good place to start. Learn how to use them and you can go from there.
You should torque lug nuts/bolts, meaning a 1/2" usually. After that you may eventually need a 3/8" and possibly a 1/4" drive to cover various lower torques. When you need those you will know. Generally the 3/8" is good for brake pins and possibly carrier bolts.
bcradio
Well-known member
They are definitely worth getting for DIY work. I would say to start off by buying the Harbor Freight 1/2" and 3/8" torque wrenches for $9.99 each and then upgrade down the road if you feel the need.
BirdMobile
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2014
- Messages
- 588
If you plan to do much car/engine work, a torque wrench is almost essential.
For basic stuff, a foot-pound wrench with an upper limit of 150-250 is good.
For more advanced emgine and transmission work, you'll need an inch pound wrench with an upper limit of around 300 inch pounds (25 foot pounds).
For foot pound wrenches, I like PI (Precision Instruments) split beams or traditional "clickies" with a micrometer adjustment. For inch pound wrenches, I personally prefer dial type, with a memory needle. CDI and Precision Instruments both make excellent dial torque wrenches.
One last thing - don't go cheap. A friend of mine bought a no-name chinese wrench and overtorqued a head bolt. Busted the bolt and spent an extra 2 days and $200 on the car. We disassembled the wrench, there was a small metal shaving inside making the little roller in the torque slip section freeze up.
For basic stuff, a foot-pound wrench with an upper limit of 150-250 is good.
For more advanced emgine and transmission work, you'll need an inch pound wrench with an upper limit of around 300 inch pounds (25 foot pounds).
For foot pound wrenches, I like PI (Precision Instruments) split beams or traditional "clickies" with a micrometer adjustment. For inch pound wrenches, I personally prefer dial type, with a memory needle. CDI and Precision Instruments both make excellent dial torque wrenches.
One last thing - don't go cheap. A friend of mine bought a no-name chinese wrench and overtorqued a head bolt. Busted the bolt and spent an extra 2 days and $200 on the car. We disassembled the wrench, there was a small metal shaving inside making the little roller in the torque slip section freeze up.
JonDick13926
Well-known member
Torque wrenches will definitely come in handy, especially when dealing with delicate pieces (like aluminum engine heads, for example) that can warp or deform if over torqued. It's also not very hard to break a bolt head off, especially if the bolt isn't at least a grade 5. And spending extra time with reverse drill bits, screw extractors, and/or tap & die kits when you break a head off isn't fun. It's funny, at school (I'm a Honda PACT major) we joke about people who answer the question "how tight does it have to be" with "good an' tight". You also don't want to under-torque something. Under-torquing lugnuts can cause them to "wiggle" loose over time. That concept applies to a lot of fasteners.
It's a good idea to get a pretty decent brand. I would recommend CDI if you're looking for a clicker style or SK if you're looking for a beam style. I have a 7502MRMH from CDI. It works just as well as the Snap On stuff that we borrow at school for half the price.
Oh, and try to hit a wide range of torque specs when you buy torque wrenches. You'll probably have to buy three. Keep in mind, when dealing with torque wrenches, they're more accurate in the middle of they're range. If you need to tighten something down to 31ft-lb, and you have two torque wrenches that operate in that range, go for the one where 31ft-lb is closest to the middle.
It's a good idea to get a pretty decent brand. I would recommend CDI if you're looking for a clicker style or SK if you're looking for a beam style. I have a 7502MRMH from CDI. It works just as well as the Snap On stuff that we borrow at school for half the price.
Oh, and try to hit a wide range of torque specs when you buy torque wrenches. You'll probably have to buy three. Keep in mind, when dealing with torque wrenches, they're more accurate in the middle of they're range. If you need to tighten something down to 31ft-lb, and you have two torque wrenches that operate in that range, go for the one where 31ft-lb is closest to the middle.
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darkoverlift
Member
I have a craftsman, older one and love to use it. Saves in the end by not over tightening bolts. Even lug nuts!!!!
Torque wrenches are a must. Great to have. I've got 2 craftsman ones, and they do their job but they're not great. If you went the craftsman route, they're usually on sale at 40 bucks, so don't pay more then that, definitely recommend looking at other/better brands.
Maybe someone else can chime in on this. Doesn't Kobalt/Lowes still lifetime warranty their torque wrenches? Meaning you could just warranty the wrench every year or 2 for calibration?
Maybe someone else can chime in on this. Doesn't Kobalt/Lowes still lifetime warranty their torque wrenches? Meaning you could just warranty the wrench every year or 2 for calibration?
I have a torque wrench only I usually only use it on wheel nuts, although I haven't got into any engines so qhen that time comes it may come out more often. A good 1/2 " will be fine if you just plan on doing wheel nuts.
woody 73
Well-known member
Stripping nuts & bolts ***** big time ask me how I know this...Head over to your local Home depot and pick up a new husky (MADE IN THE USA) Torque wrench for under $100.00 and never look back.
nieuport17
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2014
- Messages
- 466
To OP, yes u need a torque wrench.
I use torque wrench on everything if I know the number.
I use torque wrench on everything if I know the number.
Jax Christian
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2014
- Messages
- 50
Yes a torque wrench is needed. A lot of easy fixes. Especially on easy fixes like water pump, fuel pump(older =vehicles) ect.
SuzukiGS750EZ
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2012
- Messages
- 3,273
I bought both my husky torque wrenches at Home Depot. They're rebranded KD/gearwrench. They work great. I have the 1/2" and 3/8"
Jax Christian
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2014
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- 50
With the aluminum on most of the new cars I would definitely recommend a torque wrench.
zach540
Active member
While I can't personally speak to their quality, Car Craft gave a positive review of the Harbor Freight brand of torque wrenches http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_1304_torque_wrench_testing/
So you wouldn't be breaking the bank with that brand, $60 total for 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive.
Like I said, I personally cannot speak to their quality as I don't own their set, but if I needed to purchase a set, I would seriously consider theirs.
FYI, I have Craftsman torque wrenches for the most part, with an AC Delco and Tekton thrown in the mix.
Zach
So you wouldn't be breaking the bank with that brand, $60 total for 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 drive.
Like I said, I personally cannot speak to their quality as I don't own their set, but if I needed to purchase a set, I would seriously consider theirs.
FYI, I have Craftsman torque wrenches for the most part, with an AC Delco and Tekton thrown in the mix.
Zach
Doc
Well-known member
I have a 1/2 drive TQ wrench just for lug nuts. Not 1 wheel is ever tightened by hand in this house. Never had an issue with warped rotors, broken lug nut studs or being in a position I could not get the lug nut off on the side of the road.
RedneckWelder
Well-known member
For any time you are getting involved with the engine (as in going inside it), you want to have a torque wrench handy
For the most part, otherwise I don't really use one much on a car but I have a pretty good feel for this stuff. As echoed above, stripping and breaking bolts ***** balls so if you don't have such a feel, then you will want to make more use of the torque wrench.
There is also a list of general purpose torque specs for size and thread of bolts if you can't find a torque spec for something but feel like getting precise in your torquing.
For the most part, otherwise I don't really use one much on a car but I have a pretty good feel for this stuff. As echoed above, stripping and breaking bolts ***** balls so if you don't have such a feel, then you will want to make more use of the torque wrench.
There is also a list of general purpose torque specs for size and thread of bolts if you can't find a torque spec for something but feel like getting precise in your torquing.
SuzukiGS750EZ
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2012
- Messages
- 3,273
Yeah I pretty much only torque wheel bearings, lug nuts and engine work. Everything else is just by feel.
Gregg33
Well-known member
I've only used them regularly on wheel nuts and on the drive flanges on my dirt modified (they thread into Aluminum). They are also a must for cylinder heads and spindle nuts on newer vehicles. Pretty much everything else is by feel. Also don't rule out buying a used one. Chances are it'll still be plenty accurate enough for the average do-it-yourselfer.
Yes on the torque wrench, I started with the craftsman 1/2 inch using it to torque lug nuts so you don't warp the rotors. If you start doing engine work you will need the 3/8 for things like valve covers. Mine are both older Craftsman's but I hear good things about the Home Depot Husky's but have not used them.
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
I'm a DIY guy that primarily works on suspension and brakes on my vehicles, and everything on my buggy and dirt bike/quad. I have 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive torque wrenches and a Utica torque driver for working on my guns. My trucks are large, so I primarily use my 1/2" drive about 80% of the time, followed by my 3/8" 15%, and 1/4" 5%. Torque wrenches are nice because they kind of force you to slow down and check your work.
All of mine have come from ebay used, but like new. Used torque wrenches are super cheap; I bet I have $150 total in my set and I have 1 Proto, 2 Cornwell, and the Utica. Look for an industrial or truck brand and you will get a good wrench. Proto usually goes really cheap, but Armstrong, SK, Mac, Snap On, Matco, Cornwell, Wright, or CDI (oem for a lot of companies) will serve you well.
All of mine have come from ebay used, but like new. Used torque wrenches are super cheap; I bet I have $150 total in my set and I have 1 Proto, 2 Cornwell, and the Utica. Look for an industrial or truck brand and you will get a good wrench. Proto usually goes really cheap, but Armstrong, SK, Mac, Snap On, Matco, Cornwell, Wright, or CDI (oem for a lot of companies) will serve you well.
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General Geoff
Well-known member
With HF torque wrenches available for $10-$15, there's no reason not to get them. Any job worth doing, is worth doing right. Especially with torque-sensitive jobs that involve liquid-tight sealing surfaces and gaskets.