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Torque wrenches to cover DIYer basis (PI split beam)

pipsters

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Hi guys,

Tried a precision instruments split beam torque wrench and really liked it.

Am thinking of getting

10-50 ft-lbs PI split beam
50-250 ft-lbs PI split beam

Both accurate to 4% at 20%-100% of range

Seems like that would cover everything from 10-250 ft-lbs which is pretty much everything on a car, from engine rebuilding to axle nuts. The majority of use will be with the 10-50, not much above 50.

Thoughts? Sound like a good plan?
 
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dwm

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That'll cover most things, but not everything (depending on the vehicle). Axle nuts can go over 250 ft-lbs. Engine rebuilds often involve stuff below 10 ft-lbs, especially on modern engines with variable cam timing of some sort. They also almost always involve torque angle. The Snap-On TechAngle or similar are very nice for that work, but we all got by just fine for a long time with torque wrenches + torque angle tool. Realistically, it's not all that often you need to pull a head or remove rods or crankshaft, so you might just wait until you need those tools.

I prefer having a torque multiplier for the big stuff, assuming I have a way to brace it. The little stuff... buy what you need when you need it, since you often need some additional specialty tools (sometimes engine-specific) to deal with a modern valvetrain.
 
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I have 2 PI split beams in a similar range pattern. I think they are great There are only a few instances where I needed something different. Since the split beam only works in one direction it can't torque reverse thread pattern fasteners such as bicycle bottom brackets. So I have a CDI dial type for bike work. I also had a run in with an axle nut requiring 450nm Or 332 ft.lbs. I doubt I will run into much requiring that kind of torque so I refrained from buying A fourth.
 

TreePointer

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I agree with "get as needed" for the rest.

For me, I need a lower torque range for chainsaws and mounting rifle scopes.
 

shampoop

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I have a PI flex head split beam 3/8" torque wrench and love it, but half of what I love about it is not needing to re-zero after every use, and being able to change adjust the torque very quickly, things that don't really matter to a DIY'er. The only thing I don't like about it is that the teeth are VERY coarse and not smooth at all even after lubing.
 

DrkMtnDew

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i've got both of those and you'll be able to do 99.99% of the fasteners you'll run into.
 

Charles (in GA)

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Tool Topia has proven to be about the best price on the PI split beams. I bought 3/8 and 1/2 models three or four years ago from them and they have held the price pretty close to what I paid for them. I talked to a tech rep at PI after I bought them (had some question, don't recall what) and he was astounded at what I paid for them, apparently their price is somewhere close to their cost on them.

Charles
 
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pipsters

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Tool Topia has proven to be about the best price on the PI split beams. I bought 3/8 and 1/2 models three or four years ago from them and they have held the price pretty close to what I paid for them. I talked to a tech rep at PI after I bought them (had some question, don't recall what) and he was astounded at what I paid for them, apparently their price is somewhere close to their cost on them.

Charles

ToolTopia is expensive. That same torque wrench (3/8" 20-100 ft-lbs) can be had on thetoolwarehouse.net for $102 with their 15% off coupon. The 10-50 ft-lbs on TT is $115 and can be bought from Advance Auto for $101.
 
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pipsters

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i've got both of those and you'll be able to do 99.99% of the fasteners you'll run into.

I guess I just feel weird using a torque wrench rated to 250 ft-lbs to torque something at 50. But it's supposed to be 4% accurate down that low which is just 2 ft-lbs so that should certainly be good enough, I'd think. Still just kinda weird.
 
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back2class

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This is nuts. Just get a $20 scale torque wrench. More acurate and less expensive. Better all round tool for general use.
 
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pipsters

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Scale torque wrench? Is that a beam style? I have one of those. It's great for use every now and then, but I find that

a) the beam tends to rub on the upper or lower band and gets hung up when torquing at an off angle
b) it's impossible to read when doing something under the car or in the engine compartment
c) I like the tactile feedback of the "pop" when torque is reached
 

hammergodthor

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PI is the best. I have 3, and love the super positive, no nonsense click. Other wrenches you have to be more careful, if you pull quickly vs. slow and steady they will click at different places. Probably all still within the 4% range, but that solid click is still quite reassuring! :thumbup:
 

back2class

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If there's any tool to spend a little bit more on, it's a torque wrench.

The simple scale/beam type is the most accurate and required for some aircraft work where the click and fancy beam is not acurate enough. It never needs to be calibrated. The click are for restricted view/space and production work. It is a substandard tool for accuracy and durability. Just because something is more expensive does not mean it is better. Your brain should be the best tool. Invest more in yours. I am always amazed by all the click and beam people here who invest big bucks in them when it is the wrong tool for 90% of torque wrench use.
 

packet

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The simple scale/beam type is the most accurate and required for some aircraft work where the click and fancy beam is not acurate enough. It never needs to be calibrated. The click are for restricted view/space and production work. It is a substandard tool for accuracy and durability. Just because something is more expensive does not mean it is better. Your brain should be the best tool. Invest more in yours. I am always amazed by all the click and beam people here who invest big bucks in them when it is the wrong tool for 90% of torque wrench use.

It's entirely personal preference, but there's no way you could get me to try to read the scale on a beam type torque wrench on a regular basis. They may not require calibration, but they're a pain to use.

I doubt the vast majority of people will ever work on aircraft. So, that's a rather useless metric. For the majority of people, a click or electronic torque wrench will provide far more consistent work simply due to reduced errors in reading the scale.
 

dwm

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All torque wrenches have 'issues' depending on their application. There's nothing wrong with picking what's most useful to you. I've personally become somewhat lazy over the years, and like the tool to do a little more work for me. That's why I spent the money on the TechWrench models versus continuing to use my clickers. I like having strain-gauged bending beam torque wrenches for never needing to be unwound, showing me maximum torque, etc. The downsides: hand position matters (as it does on a bending beam), it needs to be calibrated about once every 5000 cycles, and it needs batteries. Plus they're not dirt cheap.

I still have my very old beams, but they almost never see use. Many things on modern vehicles put your wrench in a position where there isn't a chance in hell of reading it while using it if you're working alone.
 

Jim85IROC

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I had a similar issue when looking for torque wrenches for my LSx engine build. I needed to cover a wide range of torque values from inch-lbs up through 85+ ftlbs (not including the 250ftlbs that they specify for the crank bolt). I also did some reading (on this site - it's what brought me here initially) and learned that typically a torque wrench is only within it's rated accuracy down to a certain value, I think it was 20% of its max value. Because of this, it makes finding units that can cover a full range that much more difficult.

Ultimately, I settled on the 3/8 PI split beam torque wrench for my 20-whatever ftlb stuff, and a USA-made Gearwrench 3/8 inchlb torque wrench for the lighter duty stuff. I bought both of them from Tooltopia and I'm quite happy with them both.
 
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