Torque Wrenches

[jmm]

So I'm in the market for another torque wrench. Have considered buying used, so I was trying to scour the internet for info to either convince or dissuade me on the idea. I ran across the Wikipedia article on torque wrenches, and read something I've never heard before:

For the click type, when not in use, the force acting on the spring should be removed by setting the scale to 20% of full scale in order to maintain the spring's strength. Never set a micrometer style torque wrench to zero as the internal mechanism requires a small amount of tension in order to prevent tool failure due to unwarranted tip block rotation. If a micrometer tool has been stored with the setting above 20% the tool should be set to 50% of full scale and exercised at least FIVE times before being used.

There are no sources that back this, so I'm taking it to Garage Journal. What do you think? Any merit here?

 

[Buckgnarly]

Not sure about the using five times thing, but storing it below the 20% is what I have heard and do. Both my old Cman and Kobalt say this in the instructions.

 

[jmm]

Yeah, the first part about that is probably universally accepted, but the 'excersize 5 times at the mid-way point on the scale'-thing is completely new, and puzzling, to me.

 

[Nocturnal-G]

I have a HF torque wrench that I store at the minimum, before using it... I'll move the selector all the way up and down a few times. I'm not sure about what wiki says... But that's how I care for torque wrenches... Never drop it, store it in its case at all times, never toss it.

Works for me...

 

[metaleltr]

That would explain the reason for this on the Snap-On torque comparator.

• Integrated exercise adaptor makes it easy to break in the wrench for getting the most accurate results (as per B107.14M standard)

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=682241&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[jmm]

I have a HF torque wrench that I store at the minimum, before using it... I'll move the selector all the way up and down a few times. I'm not sure about what wiki says... But that's how I care for torque wrenches... Never drop it, store it in its case at all times, never toss it.

Works for me...

Your reasoning, that the spring needs a work-out prior to use? More to it than that? How's your HF unit held up? I have one at home I'm quite pleased with (surprised, too).

 

[metaleltr]

Additional information
http://63.135.113.73/Portals/0/NTTS TorquePaper3a Nov08 NAB.pdf

4. The torque wrench must be exercised (operated) before taking readings.
(Once for indicating tools and five times for setting tools.) This is to allow relubrication
of moving surfaces and settling of components into their working
position.

http://www1.snapon.com/display/231/ToolNews/TechRefs/2008/TorqueWrench08.pdf

9. If using a click-type torque wrench, always store it at the lowest level on the scale.

 

[HaroRider]

That would explain the reason for this on the Snap-On torque comparator.


http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=682241&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

I always wondered if they made something like this.

However how do you know the machine will be accurate over time?

 

[metaleltr]

I always wondered if they made something like this.

However how do you know the machine will be accurate over time?

I'm sure it has a calibration interval just like a torque wrench. If you think about it you would have very few cycles compared to those on your torque wrench.

 

[Nocturnal-G]

Your reasoning, that the spring needs a work-out prior to use? More to it than that? How's your HF unit held up? I have one at home I'm quite pleased with (surprised, too).

Yeah, pretty much to get it ready and I believe there is a lubricant of some sort inside for the spring, I could be wrong since I've never opened a torque wrench or figured exactly how they work. I'm going to guess they fit a spring inside that has a certain strength when pushed on, and when the spring reaches the limit aka specified torque... It jumps causing a click effect.

I could be wrong, never really looked into torque wrenches.

The reason I bought the HF unit was because it is cheap and I'm surprised at some of the reviews it got here. Clicking at the same time as a snap on torque wrench sounded awesome to me.

I've owned it for about 5-7 months and its held up well. I have used it to torque many oil filters... I've used it on a few pulley bolts as well without issues... I honestly think its worth the 10-20 bucks they charge.

 

[Thunderbisciut]

And to add what my Proto torque screwdriver manual says, don't adjust it lower or higher than the lowest or highest setting.

Just use smooth consistent movements when using it, done use it as a big breaker bar to break bolts free, when done drop it to it's lowest setting, and store it in a nice dry place should keep things happy for a while.

Buying used clickers frightens me, not knowing what the previous owners have done with it. You can always get it recalibrated, but that's expensive to do.

 

[jmm]

Yeah, pretty much to get it ready and I believe there is a lubricant of some sort inside for the spring, I could be wrong since I've never opened a torque wrench or figured exactly how they work. I'm going to guess they fit a spring inside that has a certain strength when pushed on, and when the spring reaches the limit aka specified torque... It jumps causing a click effect.

I could be wrong, never really looked into torque wrenches.

The reason I bought the HF unit was because it is cheap and I'm surprised at some of the reviews it got here. Clicking at the same time as a snap on torque wrench sounded awesome to me.

I've owned it for about 5-7 months and its held up well. I have used it to torque many oil filters... I've used it on a few pulley bolts as well without issues... I honestly think its worth the 10-20 bucks they charge.

That's basically it; I found one once (it was GONE) and stripped it down to see. They're pretty simple. But I wonder, do clickers wear out after prolonged use? I'm only 27, so I've not used mine long enough to know.

I bought my HF torque wrench in Pasadena, I think, during a stint I did out west back in 2009. I've still got it, and I still use it. Couple times a year I test it against my regularly calibrated Hazet at work, and it's surprisingly accurate. I wouldn't use it professionally, but it's a no brainer for home use.

 

[Neodogg]

you can get one re-calibrated for about $50

 

[PBCampbell]

The instructions used to state for a wrench that had not been in regular service to click(or exercise) at 60% of scale, then 100%, then 20%, then at the torque to be used. This was for industrial brands like Utica, Sturtevant, etc. I believe it was something like 3 to 5 clicks per each setting.

 

[skruft]

I think I have bought all the torque wrenches that I have as used, except the first one.

 

[silver2000]

We must be on the same plane, I just read that same article and thought the same thing about never hearing that before. Thanks for posting this one!

 

[AV tinker er]

I was taught when I was in the AF that a torque wrench must be exercised at least 6 times at max range of the wrench (unless it was very high torque). Never knew why but I do remember reading the regulation.

 

[Mustangmike]

Unwind the dial to the lowest setting, or "0" when storing it. i have a craftsman 1/2 drive torque wrench i bough close to 20years ago, it is probably less than 5% off

 

[P_I_Torque]

Per ASME B107.14M specification, before any test sequence the torque instrument shall be operated three times at 100% of maximum graduated value.

 

[jmm]

Per ASME B107.14M specification, before any test sequence the torque instrument shall be operated three times at 100% of maximum graduated value.

Is this an industry standard, or more of a 'suggestion'? I ask only because the answers to my original question varied so widely; that, and your user name suggests you might be in the know...

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Per ASME B107.14M specification, before any test sequence the torque instrument shall be operated three times at 100% of maximum graduated value.

Is this an industry standard, or more of a 'suggestion'? I ask only because the answers to my original question varied so widely; that, and your user name suggests you might be in the know...

Well, he did quote the American Society of Mechanical Engineers specification for torque equipment. Why would this not be an industry standard? There is a European, and Australian standards and probably several more, and I think they all mimic each other.

Charles

 

[ajchien]

Yeah, pretty much to get it ready and I believe there is a lubricant of some sort inside for the spring, I could be wrong since I've never opened a torque wrench or figured exactly how they work. I'm going to guess they fit a spring inside that has a certain strength when pushed on, and when the spring reaches the limit aka specified torque... It jumps causing a click effect.

I could be wrong, never really looked into torque wrenches.

The reason I bought the HF unit was because it is cheap and I'm surprised at some of the reviews it got here. Clicking at the same time as a snap on torque wrench sounded awesome to me.

I've owned it for about 5-7 months and its held up well. I have used it to torque many oil filters... I've used it on a few pulley bolts as well without issues... I honestly think its worth the 10-20 bucks they charge.

This guy took apart a click style:

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/torque_wrench/index.html

It seems that you could conceive of a few reasons for cycling the torque wrenches before using after being stored for a while.

 

[WhyMe]

i took my craftsman apart after looking at the pix. mine had accidentally been soaked in some water that got into the tube. It never worked the same after that i was not sure how it worked so i put it to the side for years.

Took it apart and the tube was rusted. cleaned it out and lubed it thoroughly inside. tested it an it works like new. strong click and all.

 

[jmm]

Well, he did quote the American Society of Mechanical Engineers specification for torque equipment. Why would this not be an industry standard? There is a European, and Australian standards and probably several more, and I think they all mimic each other.

Charles

Because instructions on torque wrenches vary widely. Or because the ASME has no regulatory power. It's a nonprofit that seems built to help collaboration within the profession, rather than to exert influence beyond its ranks -- I read their mission statement.

 

[P_I_Torque]

I can only speak for our torque wrenches. The coil spring inside our M line are calculated to retain peak spring-rate when stored at bottom of the scale, which is 20% of full scale. If stored at a higher setting than 20% the spring beings to loose it's designed tension and will more than likely cause all readings to be low. However, even while stored at 20% there is a shelf life to the main coil springs. There is good reason to cycle a torque wrench which has been not used recently, not to different than warming up a cars engine and transmission to get peak power and efficiently. It's mechanical and even distribution of lubrication is engineered into these tools for one main reason, to control friction. Store the applied force as energy and at a calculated point, release it (high amounts but controlled friction)... CLICK.

If I purchased a Micrometer style click wrench and noticed it was stored above the 20% mark, I would suggest a verification of it's accuracy. I can not service others torque wrenches, but use me if you'd like to verify torque values. Send me a PM and I'll be happy to help.

Sidebar: My personal favorite style torque wrench is a Dial Type with the memory needle. Nearly takes all that bad stuff out of the picture. Near infinite shelf life, no lubrication, friction free operation, and highly accurate. With the memory needle you are not required to see the dial, all that's needed is periodic checks to see how far you've pushed that memory needle along =)

Good luck with your purchase, hope this helped some

 

[ArcStyles]

I have a Hazet 6292 1-CT (click type) torque wrench that reads 40-200-Nm or 30 to 150 ft-lb. Normally (I think???) 40-Nm would be my lowest rated setting when dialing it down for storing. However I have a little more than a full turn (about 20-Nm) below the actual rating of wrench. Do I set my wrench to 40-Nm or the lower 20-Nm? Either way the wrench is still under a very light load.

I question this because it is suggested in some articles to set to 0 or lowest setting. Confused and don't want to damage or shorten the life of this wrench. What is my actual lowest storage setting?

Can't find any instruction/maintenance manual on the this Hazet product. Maybe someone has info on where to get a manual?

Thanks in advance for your input...

 

[ArcStyles]

I finally found the answer according to Team Torque.

Here is the link:
http://www.teamtorque.com/torque_tips.html

• Storage: All torque instruments should be stored in their original case. Avoid any storage locations that are subject to high or low temperatures and high humidity. "Clicker" style torque wrenches should always be turned down and stored at the torque wrenches lowest possible setting.

Hope this is helpful to anybody who is uncertain.

Anybody know where I can get this Hazet and my 100 to 480-ft-lb Manoskop Claibrated in the California Bay area? I tried a place in Livermore, but they wanted $150 for just the Manoskop. Claimed they needed a different machine???