Torque Wrenches

[jhelrey]

I settled on PI. I bought the 1/2 already and will be buying the 3/8 tonight yet. I think I'm going with the lower torque values vs 20-100.

Thank you for everyone's input. A dealer that sells both brands told me to buy the PI vs the CDI due to the same internals and with your suggestions, it was a no brainer.

 

[6PTsocket]

I'm sorry my wording came out kinda weird. The main thing I was wanting is for somebody else not to get a defective Armstrong tool, and have to downgrade to a Gearwrench tool.

Where are Precision Instruments made? Is there an advantage to using a split beam style (never used one) over a clicker type?

They can be left at any setting since a spring is not under load. They hold calibration better.The only drawback is they only work in one direction, CW. The need to torque CCW is probably not very often needed.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[guy48065]

I settled on PI. I bought the 1/2 already and will be buying the 3/8 tonight yet. I think I'm going with the lower torque values vs 20-100.

Thank you for everyone's input. A dealer that sells both brands told me to buy the PI vs the CDI due to the same internals and with your suggestions, it was a no brainer.

In the OP you never said what models you have or what their problem is. If the problem is electronic (dead, eats batteries, "err" display, etc) only GW can repair it--they'll just replace the circuit. Might be worth your while to send it in to Apex/GW for evaluation. They *might* fix them for free if there's no obvious signs of abuse. They have new models out now so what you end up with might have the old bugs fixed.

If selling they're definitely worth more working, than dead.

 

[jeepinerdeep]

While we are on the subject......... Does anyone know what is involved in changing the head on a 1/4" CDI to the Williams/SO style? The one I got has some god awful 3 position ratchet head. I wouldn't have bought it if that was clear to me.

 

[Mr. Tool]

Received my Tohnichi MTQL70N (10-70 N-m) on Monday!

 

[Mgdoug3]

I have a PT clicker style and a Snap on techangle that I use the most. I also have a HF 1/4 but I only needed it for a one time use. I traded a rear axle for the Snap on which was brand new off the tool truck. I wouldn't have bought one new. I actually prefer the PT one when just doing wheels nuts but use the Snap on when I need precise work.

I got lucky getting the Snap on since I had an axle laying around I didn't need. If I didn't luck out I would most likely get a split beam. Backing my clicker down after each use gets old. I did test the PT torque wrench on the Snap on guy's truck and it was still dead on.

 

[Wamsutta]

I have a PT clicker style and a Snap on techangle that I use the most. I also have a HF 1/4 but I only needed it for a one time use. I traded a rear axle for the Snap on which was brand new off the tool truck. I wouldn't have bought one new. I actually prefer the PT one when just doing wheels nuts but use the Snap on when I need precise work.

I got lucky getting the Snap on since I had an axle laying around I didn't need. If I didn't luck out I would most likely get a split beam. Backing my clicker down after each use gets old. I did test the PT torque wrench on the Snap on guy's truck and it was still dead on.

Yeah but that split beam doesn't do angles. . . .

 

[guy48065]

Received my Tohnichi MTQL70N (40-70 N-m) on Monday!

That is an unusually narrow torque range (typically would be 14-70). Is that common for Tohnichi?

 

[jd_1138]

I need to buy one myself. I was torquing some lugs on a friend's trailer, and it stopped working. Cheap torque wrenches are not a good value.

 

[Shark Pilot]

I'm need of a 1/4" drive torque wrench - just saw this in the NAPA Real Deals flyer https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CHQETW14FL. Looks decent for electronic with flex head for $120 (down from $329!!!). Anyone know about these?

 

[Mr. Tool]

That is an unusually narrow torque range (typically would be 14-70). Is that common for Tohnichi?

My apologies for my error. It should have read 10-70 N-m instead. I've already corrected my original post.

Thanks for pointing that out.

Click on the link below and scroll down for more detailed specifications on that particular model/style Tohnichi torque wrench.

https://www.tohnichi.com/products/motorcycle-torque-wrench-MTQL.htm

 

[anndel]

I settled on PI. I bought the 1/2 already and will be buying the 3/8 tonight yet. I think I'm going with the lower torque values vs 20-100.

Thank you for everyone's input. A dealer that sells both brands told me to buy the PI vs the CDI due to the same internals and with your suggestions, it was a no brainer.

Excellent choice

 

[guy48065]

I'm need of a 1/4" drive torque wrench - just saw this in the NAPA Real Deals flyer https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CHQETW14FL. Looks decent for electronic with flex head for $120 (down from $329!!!). Anyone know about these?

An Eclatorq I believe.

 

[nelstomlinson]

I got curious about the split beam design, and found a patent that explains how they work. https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/72/6f/83/4d9257b44706dd/US4290329.pdf Cool stuff.

 

[dnschmidt]

There is no doubt that the NAPA wrench you linked to is an Eclatorq. I sell Eclatorq and that's an Eclatorq for sure. THAT IS A HOT SMOKIN' DEAL. I highly recommend that anybody that needs that type of torque wrench buy it at that price. My price from Eclatorq is higher than that sale price.