Torque Wrenches

[DIY Rookie]

Looking for a nice/accurate torque wrench specifically to use on my Harley. One that won't break the bank, somewhere between $50 & $125. Prefer digital but doesn't have to be. Thanks for any help.

 

[Qualitytools]

Look into NORBAR, use to be family owned for decades in the UK. I heard that Snap-On bought them. Very accurate tools, reasonably priced and will not disappoint.

 

[Jokester]

Actually kinda depends more on the typical torque range you expect to use it...

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Actually kinda depends more on the typical torque range you expect to use it...

Exactly, what's the highest and lowest number? If you want to do head bolts, wheel hardware, drive nuts, etc that's not the same wrench for the case bolts.

 

[pbon]

You can find 3/8 that will do 5-100 lbs, which is a pretty good range. Snap on makes an expensive electronic one, but there are cheaper ones — maybe HF Quinn.

 

[308guru]

Looking for a nice/accurate torque wrench specifically to use on my Harley. One that won't break the bank, somewhere between $50 & $125. Prefer digital but doesn't have to be. Thanks for any help.

Considering you're planning on using this to work on a Harley, I'd go all out on a nice torque wrench. You're going to be using it A LOT.

 

[Theronswanson]

You're not going to find a decent electronic torque wrench in that price range.

 

[Shadowdog500]

Most of the Snap on Torque wrenches are made by CDI. CDI torque wrenches are above your price point by at least $50 but at least you will know you are getting a quality torque wrench.

 

[Shadowdog500]

Digital torque wrenches are really neat, but how long will they last?

A quality beam, Click, or dial torque wrench is a lifetime purchase. I don’t know if the same can be said for a digital torque wrench.

 

[Hakeem]

Split beam 3/8” from Tekton or Harbor Freight would do the trick, most likely. 20-100ft-lbs and fits nicely in your budget. That said, if you can swing it maybe consider paying more for the US-made CDI. Not sure if it’s meaningfully better, but that all-metal handle is so ****

 

[cosmokenney]

I really like the Husky brand click-type torque wrenches at home depot. They are all metal and have proven to take abuse. I've had about eight other torque wrenches from Harbor Freight, Tekton, PT and so on over the years. All of which landed in the trash bin in the garage after minor use -- like two or three times of weekend warrioring -- before they broke.
Here's a two piece set: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3...que-Wrench-Set-2-Piece-H23DTWA-03CB/324919755
They also sell them individually.

The 3/8" drive will cover almost all of the fasteners on your Harley unless you get into the cases for a clutch replacement for example. The crank shaft bolts are on pretty tight. Same for axel bolts. For the really small 8mm-10mm fasteners on motorcycles, I usually don't torque them. Just use loctite and hand tighten until they stop. I don't trust tiny non-loctited bolts to not vibrate out. For small bolts that hold plastics on, don't use loctite since it affects the plastic. For those you can use some silicone caulk or rtv on the threads.

In my view, digital means getting started on a project. Then stopping everything to drive to the store to buy batteries for the torque wrench. Not worth it unless you wrench every day.

 

[dnschmidt]

I really like the Husky brand click-type torque wrenches at home depot. They are all metal and have proven to take abuse. I've had about eight other torque wrenches from Harbor Freight, Tekton, PT and so on over the years. All of which landed in the trash bin in the garage after minor use -- like two or three times of weekend warrioring -- before they broke.
Here's a two piece set: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3...que-Wrench-Set-2-Piece-H23DTWA-03CB/324919755
They also sell them individually.

The 3/8" drive will cover almost all of the fasteners on your Harley unless you get into the cases for a clutch replacement for example. The crank shaft bolts are on pretty tight. Same for axel bolts. For the really small 8mm-10mm fasteners on motorcycles, I usually don't torque them. Just use loctite and hand tighten until they stop. I don't trust tiny non-loctited bolts to not vibrate out. For small bolts that hold plastics on, don't use loctite since it affects the plastic. For those you can use some silicone caulk or rtv on the threads.

In my view, digital means getting started on a project. Then stopping everything to drive to the store to buy batteries for the torque wrench. Not worth it unless you wrench every day.

You apparently live in a different world than I do. I buy AA and AAA batteries from Sam's Club like 36 at a time (Eveready - Never buy Duracell's as they always leak) The chance of me needing to run out to buy batteries is about the same as Earth being hit by a giant meteor.

 

[Numerator2142]

I picked up the icon 3/8" 5-75 ft lb click type on sale last week. Only used it 1x so far but seems pretty nice.
For my bikes, whatever ~20 ft lbs is in Nm seems to be a pretty common spec, so I didn't think the 20-100 ft lb split beams would be a good pick.

 

[c5greg]

Check out FB Marketplace or Ebay etc., there are some good deals on used. Lots of people, myself included are moving to digital and selling their old but very high quality used split beam and click type wrenches which means there are many professional level tools in your price range. Nothing wrong with a clicker or split beam, but they are not as convenient and feature rich (or expensive) as the digitals. I would recomend a split beam from CDI or PI, they will serve you well and will be in your price range used.

Icon does have a split beam 3/8 for around $100 which people seem to like. Unfortunetly you just missed a sale where they were $60, which to me would have been a no-brainer.

 

[Paladin]

Icon torque wrenches have been great for me, but I'm a weekend warrior. Outside of professional use, I think they are worthy of consideration.

 

[cosmokenney]

You apparently live in a different world than I do. I buy AA and AAA batteries from Sam's Club like 36 at a time (Eveready - Never buy Duracell's as they always leak) The chance of me needing to run out to buy batteries is about the same as Earth being hit by a giant meteor.

Okay.

 

[Steve_P]

I have a bunch of CDI micrometer clickers, but sometimes their 30? tooth design doesn't cut it; and sometimes a flex head is very convenient. Snap On obviously isn't going to let CDI's products advance to compete with their own branded products, and I'm not spending $500 on a Snap On to use a few times a year, so I gave up and bought both the 3/8 and 1/2 Icon 90T flex head micrometer clickers over the last year. I got the 3/8 recently with the 40% off coupon which was a smoking deal. They're nice, very high quality, made in Taiwan, have the numbers stamped in unlike most (all?) of my CDI that have them etched in. If I was starting today, I'd buy those two Icons and add a couple of CDIs.

 

[bulletpruf]

In the market for a good 3/8 torque wrench, too. I recently moved most of my tools to my shop but my 3/8" Tekton split beam stayed home, and there's a gap between the highest setting on my 1/4" Tekton and my 1/2" Precision Instruments split beam torque wrench that I keep at the shop.

Based on some of the comments above, I picked up a new CDI MFRMH for $125 including tax and shipping on eBay. Not a bad price, considering the best price I can find elsewhere is $182 + tax.

 

[ecotec]

I have 1/2” and 3/8” PI split beams from about 10 years ago. They are one and a half times what they cost then. Without a big sale, they are out of the OP’s price point.

I would probably follow Paladin’s advice, and get the Icon.

The only caveats would be if the low end of the Icon’s range is not low enough (as Numerator pointed out) or if you need angle.