trainer
Well-known member
About all you can buy here is Robertson drive screws. No reason to use anything else IMO
torx versus phillips
- Thread starter jd_1138
- Start date
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
I like Robertson's, but haven't had the opportunity to use Torx head screws, and really don't know if I have seen them for varied applications like Phillips have. I mean that I know what Torx is, but have never seen them used to hang blinds and so on.
I use a lot of deck screws for different things that I might be framing up. I built my workbenches completely with deck screws. I pick them up at our local Ace Hardware and they are made by ProFit, and come with their own bit, which is a Phillips, but it is sort of a ******* size and must be custom made for their screws. The bit is larger than you common #2 bit, and it fits the heads of the screws really tight and they won't cam out like a phillips normally will. But you only get the bit when you buy the box of screws. If you lose it, or just happen to cam out a few screws, you can't get a replacement bit that they should sell separately.
I've also found that different manufacturers that make the #2 bits you see in a jar at the checkout stands and get them for a quarter or so each. Not all are the same. Some may fit a screw really nice and tight, and others are either too long and bottom out before they seat into the slots, or just seem like they are not made where they fit the phillips slots tightly at all. Just seem like they are a tad undersize.
I'll have to look for the Torx next time I need some screws, but I do like the Robertson's. The key there is getting a good hardened brand name bit instead of a cheaper bit. I find that the black oxided bits, or the oiled bits are harder than some of the ones that you see that have been chromed. The chrome ones always seem to be the cheap China ****
I use a lot of deck screws for different things that I might be framing up. I built my workbenches completely with deck screws. I pick them up at our local Ace Hardware and they are made by ProFit, and come with their own bit, which is a Phillips, but it is sort of a ******* size and must be custom made for their screws. The bit is larger than you common #2 bit, and it fits the heads of the screws really tight and they won't cam out like a phillips normally will. But you only get the bit when you buy the box of screws. If you lose it, or just happen to cam out a few screws, you can't get a replacement bit that they should sell separately.
I've also found that different manufacturers that make the #2 bits you see in a jar at the checkout stands and get them for a quarter or so each. Not all are the same. Some may fit a screw really nice and tight, and others are either too long and bottom out before they seat into the slots, or just seem like they are not made where they fit the phillips slots tightly at all. Just seem like they are a tad undersize.
I'll have to look for the Torx next time I need some screws, but I do like the Robertson's. The key there is getting a good hardened brand name bit instead of a cheaper bit. I find that the black oxided bits, or the oiled bits are harder than some of the ones that you see that have been chromed. The chrome ones always seem to be the cheap China ****
bazzateer
Well-known member
Yep. I'm a torx convert too!
Torx.. depending on usage. With philps i tend to chase the best screwdriver for each screw depending on wear and tear of the screw and driver.
VW likes to use them for caliber bolts i have noticed.. Not ideal when they start to rust and collect dirt.
In other words: Torx are good in small sizes. When bigger they are outshined by a regular hex bolt (if it works dont try and fix it)
VW likes to use them for caliber bolts i have noticed.. Not ideal when they start to rust and collect dirt.
In other words: Torx are good in small sizes. When bigger they are outshined by a regular hex bolt (if it works dont try and fix it)
tk421
Well-known member
torx are nice. I find that the square head bits get stuck to the screw when using my impact driver
JIS perhaps?
I ask, as they look really close to one another, but unlike a Phillips, JIS isn't designed to cam-out. They can be a real PITA to spot too (if you're lucky, there's usually a dimple in the head as an indicator).
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BioNerd
Well-known member
[emoji1] lol! I know!!! I hate Robertson! !!!
ChevyEFI
Well-known member
I recall someone referring to slotted screws as preferable to torx (in a Quadrajet.) Might have been on the H.A.M.B. That's crazy to me.
Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
Once you go torx, you won't go back!
KTM shods their bikes with torx (in the center) of their hex fasteners. Been working on Japan bikes for years, the JIS screws are 'ok' if stripped it is easy enough to get it out.
Those torx bits Snap-On ect. seem to self-destruct. I am glad that Yamaha/Suzuki/Kawasaki and the rest never adopted them. I would have a special place for torx in the trash can.
On wood I am thinking that Robertson would be the best.
Those torx bits Snap-On ect. seem to self-destruct. I am glad that Yamaha/Suzuki/Kawasaki and the rest never adopted them. I would have a special place for torx in the trash can.
On wood I am thinking that Robertson would be the best.
Bib Overalls
Well-known member
Modern pressure treated wood is corrosive. It will eat up regular steel nails. So I started using PT rated Torx headed deck screws to attach bottom plates to studs (or studs to bottom plates). Cheaper than stainless steel.
As time progressed I started using the screws for other things simply because, at age 72, swinging a hammer wears me down quick.
Never used the Robinson but most of 1/4" hex drive bit sets include the drivers.
The Torx bits that come with the screws are not, in my opinion, as good as the longer versions that lock into a battery powered impact driver.
As time progressed I started using the screws for other things simply because, at age 72, swinging a hammer wears me down quick.
Never used the Robinson but most of 1/4" hex drive bit sets include the drivers.
The Torx bits that come with the screws are not, in my opinion, as good as the longer versions that lock into a battery powered impact driver.
The T20 and T20 fasteners I bought came with bits that lock into the hex 1/4" impact. Not like a drill chuck where you have to tighten it down (and it still slips).
I used an extension bit that I had in order to reach some recessed areas. The fasteners I bought are "Project Center" by Hillman.
Angelfire
Well-known member
If you ever work on a Jeep, you will learn to absolutely hate Torx. I know I despise the things. They work fine for driving screws in wood but try to remove them after having sat in Jeep, forget it. I ended up having to weld nuts to most of them just to get them out. I ultimately got rid of all of them on my Jeep and replaced them with Hex. I actually prefer the Robertson style bolts/screws but couldn't find the sizes I needed so had to go with hex. If I use screws in woodworking, which is very rarely, I always get the square drive...they work very well.
Notgrownup
Well-known member
Years ago I worked for Crouse Hinds Arrow Hart had a slogan in Canada ...Be a safe driver with Arrow Hart. I was to promote Robertson only screws in their Canadian devices...to promote safety. Robertson heads are the safest.
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Exactly.. Torx only works on small stuff. On cars they are an absolute nightmare!
RegeSullivan
Well-known member
Robertson are by far my favorite. The only problem I occasionally run in to is a bit sticking and pulling out of magnetic adapter. I have had some stick to tightly I needed to tap them with a hammer to get them loose.
Torx are great going in but when they fill up with gunk it ***** to have to clean out the recess so the bit seats properly. I think that's why a lot of guys hate them for automotive.
Torx are great going in but when they fill up with gunk it ***** to have to clean out the recess so the bit seats properly. I think that's why a lot of guys hate them for automotive.
rlitman
Well-known member
While I agree that torx is superior to Philips, I have found that an impact driver greatly reduces camout in Philips.
Also, I've found that the biggest source of camout in Philips screws is when people use a Philips driver in a non-Philips screw (or use a #2 when a #1 is called for or vice versa).
Take your blinds for example. While they may have been custom sized in the US, you can rest assured that the packet of screws that came with them came from China. And if you see Chinese "philips" screws, you know two things.
First, that the screw heads are as soft as zinc, and second, that they're actually JIS (whether or not they have a dot marking), and not Philips, so you can be sure that a Philips driver will strip them. In this case, either get a JIS driver and be happy, or toss the hardware and use something better (as you rightly did).
European screws are another issue. My wife was struggling with some Ikea furniture recently, when I looked at the "philips" screws and realized they were actually Pozidrive. I switched her to the right driver, and it fit just as well as a torx.
Actually, the same message goes for slotted screws too. Get yourself some good parallel ground gunsmithing screwdrivers, and you'll be amazed at how easy it is to drive slotted screws. Then relegate your old slotted screwdrivers to prybar duty.
JimVonBaden
Well-known member
I disagree. On my bike I have some fasteners as high as T-60. They all work great!
ishiboo
Well-known member
I only buy Torx when I can.
You get what you pay for when it comes to blinds... the "great mounts" sound like standard cheap mounts...
A $66 blind is cheap quality, but it's probably about the same quality I get for $40 at Menards.ishiboo
Well-known member
They get a bad rap because they're used on many caliper bolts, that get rust-seized in.
Notgrownup
Well-known member
Torx are all over Harley's also and I have a gammet on T bits.