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Torx??

mark.dziamski

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Aug 27, 2015
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Central California
Hey all, I rebuild a lot of Horton Fan clutches into Kit Masters and always fight with the 8 T27 fasteners that hold the clutch disc. I've tried many different brands of torx bits and sockets. They always seem to break and I end up drilling them out. Anyone know of a torx brand that can handle to the torque?

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CR888

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Feb 19, 2017
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I use T-27 bits near every day. I only use German made Wiha bits, I have them in 3 or 4 lengths along with T-handles. I get a LOT of use out of a bit before its worn out, never broken a bit off in a fastener. I use them on 1/4" impact, cordless drill & cordless screwdriver. And due too limited access, I use the T-handles to secure small engine cylinders to crank cases on small sub 100cc 2 strokes. Whatever you buy make sure its an actual 'Torx' bit not a 'Star' bit or whatever. The torx bits will fill & fit the fastener much better not causing damage. I gave up on cheap bits ages ago, it was'nt really cheap at all.
 
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mark.dziamski

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Aug 27, 2015
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Central California
I haven't tried snap ons gold but broken many of their regular ones. Busted gear wrench, crapsman, Irwin's, Matcos, husky and many others. I'll try out the VIM and wiha, don't own any of their tools. Thanks for the tip.

PS never bought a bit actually label star. I use torx and torx plus in my line of work.

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Wamsutta

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My only experience with Torx bit sockets is Snap-on. All I can say is they fit fine and they never break; however, I only use them by hand.
 
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mark.dziamski

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Ratchet, screw gun, impact, still broken. I ordered a set of VIM on Amazon, if they don't work, I'll pick up a snap on gold but on Friday when the dealer comes.

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WittHay

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I just use the regular Snap-on 3/8 drive torx. T40 torx is used on the front drive shaft of Dodge diesel pickups. Use a 15" 1/2 ratchet with a 3/8 adapter and a long Snap-on T40 torx to remove these bolts. No problems.
 

FSrepair&fabrication

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maryland
I run into this problem as well. It seems no brand can hold up when they're rly seized, even the expensive snap ons break. Ive had the best luck using a map gas torch to heat them, then try to break em loose. Not alot of room when the fan hub is on the truck but it can be done.
 

Fedwrench

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Another issue I have ran into is the T27 always comes in 1/4" drive so I get no leverage

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T27 is kind of a thin sized bit. Vim or some other brand that's made from s2 steel might last longer but, in the end still fail. Snap o gold torx are great but, even those fail. The T27 bit, regardless of brand may just be expendable after awhile.

You can buy a 3/8 drive bit holder to hold 1/4 hex bits from just about anyone.
 

Dakkyz

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Snap On do A gold coloured set that are made for breaking Torx fasteners so you can really beat on them, not let me down yet.

Other then that I have a standard Mac set a few have twisted then a full 1/2 set made in Germany that have held up well surprising.
 
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Professional Tool User

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I've had my T27 for about 20 years and it's still doing fine. I can't imagine how I would ever break it. I don't use it with power tools though. Most the time I'll put it on 3/8" drive spin handle.

If you use your bit sockets a lot, they will eventually wear out and/or snap off on you, including the Snap on ones. If you are wondering why mechanics hate torx, hex, and all the fastener heads engineers keep on coming up with, this is one reason. Bit sockets are one of those tools that will eventually break, along with small punches, impact universal joints, reducers etc. I don't even use my bit sockets that much as a mechanic. Go ask any mechanic that works mainly on European cars and I bet they'll tell you that even the Snap on bit sockets aren't strong enough.
 

Gmonkee

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Wurth are above and beyond the average. In every respect. Just buy the single you need most.

I have one M8 for VW axle shafts. Sweet it is. The rest are Asain imports.

Quality where it matters.
 

MikeF2316

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Thornhill, ON
I can't speak for T27, but my buddy (who owns a Volvo specialist auto repair shop) swears by MAC T40 for undoing those ridiculously tight thermostat bolts. But yes, even they eventually break.
 

RoundedNut

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driveway
T27 is a small size and if they pose this much trouble, this is a design mistake on those clutches.

As far as T27's, they're far cheaper in 1/4" hex bit form. If an impact bit and driver can't get them out with 150 ft-lbs of torque then its not coming out.
 

Dave455

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I’m not familiar with the exact fasteners in question, but the problem here generally seems to be the fasteners, rather than the tool.

You get all these fasteners with countersunk heads and a relatively tiny hex or torx recess, or worse still some ‘low profile’ head that only allows about 5 thou of the tool to engage! You can barely remove ‘em when new, let alone rusted in! See above re design mistake!

Probably specified by some kid with a cad system and a chart who’s never used a wrench in his life, then cheapened by an accountant who thinks saving .02 cents a fastener is a good idea!

However, I digress. There are some good bits out there, and I have to say that this is one area where it doesn’t pay to go too cheap. Snap On, yes, seem good. Stahlwille, same applies. My current favourites are Hazet. I’m not particularly a brand snob, different makers are good st different things, but Hazet really do seem to be good at these!

Koken are pretty good too, and they sell the replacement inserts at very reasonable prices. If I order one of these torx bits now, I order spare inserts at the same time.

Beta offer a 1/2 inch drive bit holder that takes 10mm interchangeable bits. This is probably the most cost effective option.

Hazet shown.
 

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WittHay

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I assume the OP is talking about fan clutch hubs for trucks. The way i do torx or hex bolts is in stages. First try the impact with whatever impact grade bit you want. if it doesnt come out use a Snap-on or Hazet bit socket with the right length ratchet or breaker bar. Then apply heat. Last resort is welding a normal nut onto the torx/hex head fastener.

Found that even a hi-torque impact like the big Milwaukee cordless is useless for removing hex head fasteners. Lot bigger than T27 though

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mark.dziamski

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I assume the OP is talking about fan clutch hubs for trucks. The way i do torx or hex bolts is in stages. First try the impact with whatever impact grade bit you want. if it doesnt come out use a Snap-on or Hazet bit socket with the right length ratchet or breaker bar. Then apply heat. Last resort is welding a normal nut onto the torx/hex head fastener.

Found that even a hi-torque impact like the big Milwaukee cordless is useless for removing hex head fasteners. Lot bigger than T27 though

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Yep, those are the fan clutches I deal with. The 8 fasteners on the clutch ring. Almost always frozen solid. Last week I bust 2 of my own bits and 4 bits from the other guys in the shop and only 2 came out, and this was after applying heat to break down the locktite. Ended up drilling off the heads and removed with a small pair of cobras. Took so much time.

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Dakkyz

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South Yorkshire
Indeed this is true, It hurts the most when you try torquing down a triple-square (XZN) to 180nm then 180 degrees you start to feel the heat.

The worse are seized brake caliper bolts / Sub-frame bolts that are exposed to the elements a lot more painful then your standard 6 points.
 

Tonyuk

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Jun 9, 2017
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Scotland
For stuff up to T30 i use standard 1/4 bits. You can buy an adaptor to use them with a 3/8 ratchet, but i usually just use an impact driver.

I use wera bits for torx, but wiha, dewalt and facom bits are also good. Facom make great torx and spline impact sockets, and are the same as sold by Mac.

A good bit cheaper than the snap-on bits here, and lifetime warranty.

They'll end up breaking at some point, just accept that and have spares.
 

2ndGearRubber

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Mar 24, 2014
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Pittsburgh
Yep, those are the fan clutches I deal with. The 8 fasteners on the clutch ring. Almost always frozen solid. Last week I bust 2 of my own bits and 4 bits from the other guys in the shop and only 2 came out, and this was after applying heat to break down the locktite. Ended up drilling off the heads and removed with a small pair of cobras. Took so much time.

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How much room do you have to work with? Do you change the clutches on the vehicle, or do you remove that assembly and put it on the work bench?


If you have to work on it while installed, I would move my recommendation to VIM half cut exclusively. Shorter bit really helps prevent side loading and twisting out. If it's on the bench, heat it up, hammer the bit it, then use a 3/8 impact (air, electric need not apply) and your body weight to push down on it.
 

Notgrownup

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Snow Hill NC
I use T27 on my Harley and found the Thorsen bits to be true and long * lasting...if you need to heat up a Torx bolt in a tight place I would use a soldering gun with a nice long point.
 
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