Tossing Ideas Around

[zoominomad]

I've been lurking on the forum for a while, and have really learned a lot from all the great info everyone shares here. I'm currently trying to plan out my garage build that will hopefully get underway this spring when I get home.

I played with sketchup a little bit about 6 years ago, and after spending time on this site I decided to download it again to see what I could come up with. It took a little time to get used to it again, but I think I've got the hang of it again... somewhat.

Anyway, I'm thinking of something around 24'x32'x8'. I'm looking at 8' mainly just to keep cost down. I'm also thinking about using scissor trusses in the center of garage to allow me to lift a car a bit, and access overhead storage in the front and rear of the garage.

I'd love to hear any ideas anyone has. I don't have any experience building a garage, so I'm sure my design is full of faults.

I only have windows on one side because the other will be really close to a 6 1/2' privacy fence. I may need to lower the windows a bit, but I mainly want them for light instead of looking out of.

 

[bad_idea]

I think the doors on the longer side would be ideal. I prefer to have access for two cars, one long term project, and room for my DD to do a quick oil change w/o moving the project car.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Where are you located ? How much do you plan on using this as a workshop ? Is heating and cooling a requirement ? Do you plan on living at this location for 10+ years ?

Cost is always an issue, but there are choices that you need to make that will affect "you can pay for it now or pay for it for ever and ever !", especially for insulation and heating and cooling.

I would put windows on both sides. Keep them high. You may want to consider glass block. More secure.

 

[zoominomad]

Thanks for the response guys!

I think the doors on the longer side would be ideal.

Yeah I think I will definitely move the door the side, but I'm only going for large door. I have an attached 2-car garage that will house DDs. This one is only for projects.

Where are you located ? How much do you plan on using this as a workshop ? Is heating and cooling a requirement ? Do you plan on living at this location for 10+ years ?

I live in Talladega, AL, and plan on using the garage fairly heavily. I would like to build for heating and cooling so I can drop in a unit in the future without having to rip out a bunch of stuff. We plan to be at this location well past 10yrs.

Proper insulation is very high on my priority list. I also agree that I should probably just go ahead and build the height I want rather than spend forever wishing I had built it. I really like the glass block idea! Are they very hard to install? I really like them for the security aspect as well!

 

[zoominomad]

What kind of glass block do you recommend? That is something I know absolutely nothing about.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I live in Talladega, AL, and plan on using the garage fairly heavily. I would like to build for heating and cooling so I can drop in a unit in the future without having to rip out a bunch of stuff. We plan to be at this location well past 10yrs.

Proper insulation is very high on my priority list.

I would recommend using Structural Insulate Panel (SIPs).

The material cost more, but the labor is less, although a crane is usually required.. Build time is much less. They typically do not require any ceiling joists or trusses, but the do require a strong (glu-lam) center beam with correspondingly strong posts on each end.

The initial cost may be higher, but you will make it up on lower heating and cooling costs.

Don't forget to insulate under the floor ! Vapor barrier and at least 2" of solid foam.

An open building like that is perfect for a mini-split heat pump, perhaps a system with 2 inside units.

 

[theoldwizard1]

What kind of glass block do you recommend? That is something I know absolutely nothing about.

Check HD or Lowes or Menards. Typical size is 8"x8" (that is finished with mortar). If your opening is large, they can be expensive especially when compared to fixed pane thermal windows.

They provide good security because you can not see clearly through them and they are very difficult to break.

 

[zoominomad]

SIPs are definitely an interesting idea. The biggest downside to SIPs for me is that I have no experience working with them, and am not interested in contracting construction out. The only thing I plan to contract out is the pouring and finishing of the pad.

Build time and labor are non-issues really. Several guys in my National Guard company are roofers, construction workers, steel workers, and certified electricians. I don't think I know any concrete workers though, lol.

Don't forget to insulate under the floor ! Vapor barrier and at least 2" of solid foam.

What are the benefits of insulating under the floor? I'm not opposed to it, just curious.

 

[fattogatto]

Keep the door on the end, add another at the other end. A drive-through system is really nice and saves the long walls for benches, storage, etc., wasting less space.

 

[zoominomad]

Also, I know my model above shows asphalt shingles, but after talking to a buddy I'm really thinking about going with a Galvalume roof. Galvalume looks to be a lot more energy efficient, as well as more durable than a shingle roof.

 

[zoominomad]

Keep the door on the end, add another at the other end. A drive-through system is really nice and saves the long walls for benches, storage, etc., wasting less space.

That is an idea I'm tossing around, but I'm also thinking of saving the backend to build a 10x24 addition for my son to use as a place to work on his 4-wheelers, and store our lawn equipment.

 

[theoldwizard1]

SIPs are definitely an interesting idea. The biggest downside to SIPs for me is that I have no experience working with them, and am not interested in contracting construction out.

Construction, except for the roof, can easily be handled by a crew of 2-4 with a minimal amount of training. (For a single story building with a "typical" pitched roof, it may be possible to install roof panels by hand with a winch. Slow and somewhat dangerous.)

After the footing is poured, a typical bottom plate is installed. A 4'x8' (or 10' or 12') x4" (or 6") panel is placed over the bottom plate. The interior and exterior "skin" is OSB with foam insulation in between. The panel is fastened to the bottom plate using standard nailing and adhesive. The next panel is set into place and "splined" to the first either with 2 strips of OSB or an appropriate 2by with adhesive and nails. Windows and door are typically pre-cut but can be field cut (requires special tools).

A top plate is used to assist in joining the panels and spreading the load from the roof. Some type of cap is placed on the top plate that is pre-cut to the angle of the roof or the top edge of the panel is cut to the roof angle.

As stated before, the roof pretty much requires a crane. First a HD ridge beam is set (typically a glu-lam) on to the gables that have appropriate support built in for the beam. Roof panels are "flown" into place and screwed to the ridge beam and the top plate cap,

There are several "variations on the same theme" depending on the manufacturer. There are a lot of videos on YouTube showing the installation. I don't have the data to support this claim, but some manufactures are claiming about a 5-10% cost premium over stick built with "typical" insulation. Compared to stick built with "super-insulation" the cost can be 10-20% LESS !

InsulSpan Installation Guide

You owe it to yourself to do further investigation on this construction technique. 4" walls, 8" or 10" ceiling will give a very well insulated envelope with a completely open interior in a very short period of time.

 

[zoominomad]

Sorry for the delay. I didn't realize you had posted Wizard. I appreciate the additional info, and will definitely do some more research on SIPs.

 

[TheEquineFencer]

I didn't read the entire thread, but I'd do my people doors so they opened so you could leave them open and not run into them or conflict with something else. Maybe move it to the right side so it opened against a side wall. IMHO.

 

[zoominomad]

I didn't read the entire thread, but I'd do my people doors so they opened so you could leave them open and not run into them or conflict with something else. Maybe move it to the right side so it opened against a side wall. IMHO.

Thanks, I'm probably going to move the door to the side. The door in the rear will be access to another section of the garage with a roll-up on the side for my son's toys and lawn mowers, etc.

 

[astroracer]

Get some quotes for a pole building style build also. May be able to expand your sq. footage by going that route instead of stick built. If you are going to have a lift I would also recommend at least 10' sidewalls. At 8', even with scissor trusses, you will not have enough height to get a car up in the air high enough to work under it comfortably.
Also get prices to go 14' on the whole building. Sometimes simply going higher is about the same cost as buying custom trusses. Going higher would also give you the ability to add a loft down the road when you can afford it.
Mark

 

[JimVonBaden]

Keep the door on the end, add another at the other end. A drive-through system is really nice and saves the long walls for benches, storage, etc., wasting less space.

That was going to be my advice, unless there is no room, or nothing you can get to behind the garage.

 

[12ozd]

10' minimum on the walls.
Pour/block a 2'-4' wall , build the 8' on top of that.

 

[Ajustable]

Get some quotes for a pole building style build also. May be able to expand your sq. footage by going that route instead of stick built. If you are going to have a lift I would also recommend at least 10' sidewalls. At 8', even with scissor trusses, you will not have enough height to get a car up in the air high enough to work under it comfortably.
Also get prices to go 14' on the whole building. Sometimes simply going higher is about the same cost as buying custom trusses. Going higher would also give you the ability to add a loft down the road when you can afford it.
Mark

I Agree with the 10' wall height, you will wish you had it higher some time in the future, even if you never get a lift. Maybe do a comparison of the cost of a 10' 2x against an 8' 2x, studs, it can't be that much difference. But stick with the scissor truss.

Chris

 

[zoominomad]

Thanks for all the input! I really appreciate it. Yeah I will probably go ahead with at least 10' walls, really wanting 12+ but I haven't done much research on the cost of going to 12' walls with stick built. Not a huge price difference if I go with a metal building, just not sure I want a metal building.

 

[astroracer]

You don't have to go steel to put up a pole barn. A wood pole barn can be finished to look just like the house. Vinyl siding and all. Use wood sheating just like a stick built. Pole style should be cheaper then stick to begin with. Finish the inside when you can afford it.
My 30' x '74 is all wood and looks just like the house with the same color siding and window trim.
The barn

The house.

Mark

 

[rburke65]

You will kick yourself if you only go with an 8' wall height. I know money is the major concern with the majority of us, but build it bigger. Make it so big your neighbors will think your crazy....then after, they will be jealous! But bigger is better. Good luck!

 

[zoominomad]

That is a great looking shop astroracer! Definitely makes me want to spend more time looking at pole built setups!

 

[bottom feeder]

Your Sketchup skills look pretty good to me!

 

[zoominomad]

Thanks bottom feeder! I've gotten a lot better since posting this project, but I was happy with how this turned out. The biggest thing I notice is how much faster I've gotten working with sketchup. This project took me a couple days originally. Now it would take me about an hour. I've had to put this project on hold as I need to get a smaller 16x20ish shed built which I'll probably start on in December as long as the weather cooperates.