Total Flooring confusion

[Jsf721]

I have come full circle on Porclian TIle-> Tuff Seal Tile-> Eco Tile->Epoxy (Full Coverage w/ Clear Coat)


Alfter alot of reading here and other places he is where I thought i was going in this order:

Porcelian
I really wanted to do a porcelian tile after finding this place but here are my issues. I spaced certian things under the cabinets based on epoxy and the tiles will add about 1 inch. Not the end of the world but a PITA. ALso finding a tile PEI 5, COF < .6 wet, rectified in a charcoal and light gray (checkerboard) is not easy of cheap. best I can find is 1.70/sq ft charcoal and 3.39 sq ft light gray. plus the install willbe about 4.00 sq ft (I pay for all supplies. I cannot handle this install myself. Total cost with Epoxy grout for my project 4K.

Tuff Seal
Love the interlocking water tight seal. Hate the fact that it can be stained by tires. I can handle the install. If it did not stain, I would jump on it. cost for my project (me doing the install) $ 2,400.00

Eco Tile
Out because it is not water tight and I dont want to deal with Mold issue. It also stains. Cost is $ 1,600.

Epoxy
I did it myself before and had sucess and a good result but I never used a clear coat for fear of yellowing. My 2 part water based epoxy was great. After the flood and the contractors workikng on it non-stop for 4 months, it got a little nicked and beat up. I thuought, OK, it will do the Epoxy, no height issues, I did it before and I can knock it out with my boys in a long weekend. Spoke to Scotty and he sounds confident. Cost for material delivered just under 1,100.00.But the posts about staining, lifting and Yellowing have turned me off. It is alot of work for a poor outcome. Gladiator, the guys who did my cabinets do a 100% lifetime garanteed floor. At 2,800 bucks I though it was too high considering I cna do it myself less the garantee myself for a grand.

I think I am back to Porcelin and Tuff Shield---> fo rthe moment.

 

[duneslider]

I hear ya, that's why I have a bare concrete that is getting a custom patina of different oils, spray paints, and other unidentifiable stuff. I would love a nice floor but for my use I just can't seem to justify any of the options. I am thinking now a stain/densifier and a matte sealer is the way to go for me.

 

[Olyar15]

Porcelian
I really wanted to do a porcelian tile after finding this place but here are my issues. I spaced certian things under the cabinets based on epoxy and the tiles will add about 1 inch. Not the end of the world but a PITA. ALso finding a tile PEI 5, COF < .6 wet, rectified in a charcoal and light gray (checkerboard) is not easy of cheap. best I can find is 1.70/sq ft charcoal and 3.39 sq ft light gray. plus the install willbe about 4.00 sq ft (I pay for all supplies. I cannot handle this install myself. Total cost with Epoxy grout for my project 4K.

I'm not sure what kind of tiles you are looking at that would add 1" to the floor. Most tiles are about 3/8" thick, and with the thinset you are looking at about 1/2" of added thickness, not 1".

Also, forgoing porcelain tiles simply because you can't find inexpensive tiles with those requirements is kind of like saying you need a Bugatti Veyron as a daily driver, but can't afford one so you will instead take the bus. You do not need PEI 5 tiles. Also, I don't know why everyone is hung up on wet COF. My bathroom tiles as glass-smooth, and I have no problems with slipping when I get out of the shower. I have no idea what the wet COF is for my garage tiles, but again I have no problems with traction when they are wet. You are way overthinking this. As for epoxy grout, I say just go with a dark-coloured grout (I chose charcoal) and seal it. If it gets stained with oil, you would have to look carefully to be able to spot the stains.

As for colour, does it really have to be gray? One of the advantages of tile is that there is an incredible variety of colours and patterns available. Why do all that work and end up with a floor that still looks like concrete but with grout lines.

 

[Jsf721]

Definitely not taking the bus but I get your point. I am not chiseling out a broke. Or chipped tile if I have a problem so I want pei 5 through color tiles. I have kids that play in there and use the garage as an entrance. I have seen tiles in garages and entrances that are dangerous when wet and keeping my family and friends safe is foremost on my mind. As far as epoxy grout goes I do not want to scrub and clean it only to seal it when I could be done forever ( or at least a long time) by using epoxy grout. I painted the walls dove gray, ceiling white and I have granite and fau diamond plate cabinets (gladiator premier) so I was thinking about a charcoal and light gray checker board. My old floor is gray epoxy.

I appreciate your post however I am pretty particular on what I want and how I want it done depending on the route I take. For now I guess I have paralysis due to over analysis. Pretty normal for me. I am a researcher.

I'm not sure what kind of tiles you are looking at that would add 1" to the floor. Most tiles are about 3/8" thick, and with the thinset you are looking at about 1/2" of added thickness, not 1".

Also, forgoing porcelain tiles simply because you can't find inexpensive tiles with those requirements is kind of like saying you need a Bugatti Veyron as a daily driver, but can't afford one so you will instead take the bus. You do not need PEI 5 tiles. Also, I don't know why everyone is hung up on wet COF. My bathroom tiles as glass-smooth, and I have no problems with slipping when I get out of the shower. I have no idea what the wet COF is for my garage tiles, but again I have no problems with traction when they are wet. You are way overthinking this. As for epoxy grout, I say just go with a dark-coloured grout (I chose charcoal) and seal it. If it gets stained with oil, you would have to look carefully to be able to spot the stains.

As for colour, does it really have to be gray? One of the advantages of tile is that there is an incredible variety of colours and patterns available. Why do all that work and end up with a floor that still looks like concrete but with grout lines.

 

[bdamico]

you've been at this for too long -- stop thinking -- you need to **** or get off the pot.

 

[rightstick]

jsf721,
You and I are very similar. I over research as well, but in the end I know exactly what I want. I know how to apply it, and feel very comfortable installing or building it. After its all over I have no regrets because I had exhausted all of my options. I have decided to go with porcelain tiles. Good luck with your decision.

Scott

 

[Jsf721]

I need to get it right, not get it done fast. I might have had a longer learning curve than you since I am new to everything other than water based epoxy coatings. I had a sucessful install that was only compromised my a flood so I need to be sure I am going to end up in a better place and not have to deal with the "issues" I haven seen posted here on occasion.

THe other flooring options are still in the back of my mind but for now I am learing what the best options are for Expoy-> full coverage chips-> and a Clear coat that WILL NO YELLOW. If i cannot find a no yellowing durable clear coat I will forgo the full coverage and apply another coat of waterbased urethane w/light sprinkles of coverage and be very happy. it will approximate my past floor.

you've been at this for too long -- stop thinking -- you need to **** or get off the pot.

 

[Jsf721]

Good Luck, Are you doing your own install?

jsf721,
You and I are very similar. I over research as well, but in the end I know exactly what I want. I know how to apply it, and feel very comfortable installing or building it. After its all over I have no regrets because I had exhausted all of my options. I have decided to go with porcelain tiles. Good luck with your decision.

Scott

 

[bdamico]

I need to get it right, not get it done fast. I might have had a longer learning curve than you since I am new to everything other than water based epoxy coatings. I had a sucessful install that was only compromised my a flood so I need to be sure I am going to end up in a better place and not have to deal with the "issues" I haven seen posted here on occasion.

THe other flooring options are still in the back of my mind but for now I am learing what the best options are for Expoy-> full coverage chips-> and a Clear coat that WILL NO YELLOW. If i cannot find a no yellowing durable clear coat I will forgo the full coverage and apply another coat of waterbased urethane w/light sprinkles of coverage and be very happy. it will approximate my past floor.

I understand (and no, I didn't have any more experience) but you've asked the questions. Gotten the responses. You know what to do at the back of your mind. And now you're kind of back to square one with same questions. Nothing has changed. Just have to pull the trigger.

 

[duneslider]

Just so you know, a PEI5 is no more likely to not break than a PEI4. The PEI rating only applies to the finish of the tile and its ability to resist scratching. The way they test this is considered a destructive test. Basically, they put a ring on the tile and put specific steel balls on it and run the machine that rolls the balls around. After a specific time the tile is checked and the next size of steel ball is applied. They continue this until a noticeable change the finish occurs.

So, as you can see, this would show you nothing about impact resistance, or anything else relating to how strong the tile is.

And, I would be concerned with the COF. They don't just magic up these numbers cause they want to. Companies spend large amounts of money doing research on this sort of thing. You are right thinking that you want a high COF.

Honestly, I wouldn't be hung up on epoxy grout unless you are wanting a light colored grout. If you are doing a darker color or grey grout I don't know that you will really see the advantage of the epoxy. It is nice if you want to spend the extra for it but it may not really be that big of a deal in your case. Also, check out urethane grouts. They are a little easier to apply, more flexible than epoxy, just as durable in most cases, and slightly less expensive. If you want to look up some, star quartz is one I have used a lot.

If you really want tile, and are willing to spend the money to do it right, you will have a fantastic floor that will last forever. Just don't skimp on it, or you will end up unhappy.

 

[Jim B]

After spending most of my working life working with researchers I learned something on this web site that has been my mantra ever since I retired and that is this: "Don't let perfect be the enemy of good". It's difficult but I get more done now and the quality still meet my expectations.

 

[Jsf721]

You are a very wise man. I had a boss many, many year ago tell me that very quote and it has stuck with me. If your name was John instead of Jiom i would have fallen off my chair!

Thanks for the balance.

Jeff

After spending most of my working life working with researchers I learned something on this web site that has been my mantra ever since I retired and that is this: "Don't let perfect be the enemy of good". It's difficult but I get more done now and the quality still meet my expectations.

 

[milner351]

I've heard that quote put slightly differently - and being an engineer with some perfectionist tendencies - it speaks volumes to me:

"don't let PERFECT get in the way of DONE"

 

[rightstick]

This thread speaks to me as well. I operate on the Dave Ramsey principle and build as I have cash. Therefore that's part of the reason I over think things. I have lots of time between steps. I hope to do my own work, It'll give me something to do.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I have come full circle on Porclian TIle-> Tuff Seal Tile-> Eco Tile->Epoxy (Full Coverage w/ Clear Coat)


Alfter alot of reading here and other places he is where I thought i was going in this order:

Porcelian
I really wanted to do a porcelian tile after finding this place but here are my issues. I spaced certian things under the cabinets based on epoxy and the tiles will add about 1 inch. Not the end of the world but a PITA. ALso finding a tile PEI 5, COF < .6 wet, rectified in a charcoal and light gray (checkerboard) is not easy of cheap. best I can find is 1.70/sq ft charcoal and 3.39 sq ft light gray. plus the install willbe about 4.00 sq ft (I pay for all supplies. I cannot handle this install myself. Total cost with Epoxy grout for my project 4K.

Tuff Seal
Love the interlocking water tight seal. Hate the fact that it can be stained by tires. I can handle the install. If it did not stain, I would jump on it. cost for my project (me doing the install) $ 2,400.00

Eco Tile
Out because it is not water tight and I dont want to deal with Mold issue. It also stains. Cost is $ 1,600.

Epoxy
I did it myself before and had sucess and a good result but I never used a clear coat for fear of yellowing. My 2 part water based epoxy was great. After the flood and the contractors workikng on it non-stop for 4 months, it got a little nicked and beat up. I thuought, OK, it will do the Epoxy, no height issues, I did it before and I can knock it out with my boys in a long weekend. Spoke to Scotty and he sounds confident. Cost for material delivered just under 1,100.00.But the posts about staining, lifting and Yellowing have turned me off. It is alot of work for a poor outcome. Gladiator, the guys who did my cabinets do a 100% lifetime garanteed floor. At 2,800 bucks I though it was too high considering I cna do it myself less the garantee myself for a grand.

I think I am back to Porcelin and Tuff Shield---> fo rthe moment.

This thread speaks to me as well. I operate on the Dave Ramsey principle and build as I have cash. Therefore that's part of the reason I over think things. I have lots of time between steps. I hope to do my own work, It'll give me something to do.

Rightstick: Dave Ramsay is an awesome, Godly financial consultant. I follow him on FB and love his stuff.

Epoxy: You are on the right track. Scotty is a great guy and will get you headed in the right direction regardless of if it benefits him. He can get you a floor that will not yellow and that you can install yourself. You can find 'negative comments' about any products that any of us sell. Epoxy problems are rarely due to the product. Poor prep or poor product choice. Choosing a mustang for 4 wheeling would not be a good choice. Does not make it a bad car. Picking the wrong epoxy and top coat combination for your project is the same idea.

Tuff Seal: is a great Product. We sell the Tuff Seal tile at the same price as the manufacturer and honestly there is not a whole lot of room in there for us BUT its such a good product we a re delighted to offer it. The ONLY Downside to TUFF SEAL or ANY PVC tile is that certain tires can leave marks that are impossible to remove. That said those calls are few and far between AND they do make some top coats. There are also some creative ways to get black tiles in the spots you need them.

Porcelain: I have never installed it but when properly done it seems to have an amazing result in the garage. It can be slick and you need to use the right materials and there are much better guys to talk to about that than I.

I can not speak to the EcoTile other than to say it looks like most other interlocking PVC tiles. I have talked to a few people of late and they have had nothing but good things to say.

We are adding a new line of PVC tiles. They are T Locks like everything else as well. I will say this, I locked a couple of samples together, and water did not go through overnight. They also have some great stain block coatings. If you have never seen a coated PVC floor, it is absolutely amazing.

 

[ketas47]

Maybe throw another option; VCT, lot of people use it and are very happy and about the least expensive option!!

 

[Jsf721]

I will pass on VCT. I dont want to deal with the maintenance. VCT requires periodic stripping and re-finishing. I know alot about this as I am a Janitorial Supply distributor and we sell those types of products.

VCT is cheap (relative to the other choices). If I had a show place where no work got done and it was for display VCT is a fine choice. I pull my cars in and out. Do small project as measured by the stuff I see on this board and part a snowblower. On a rainy day my kids can play hockey if the cars are outside and VCT woould get too beat up IMHO for my usage.

Maybe throw another option; VCT, lot of people use it and are very happy and about the least expensive option!!

 

[Garage Flooring]

I will pass on VCT. I dont want to deal with the maintenance. VCT requires periodic stripping and re-finishing. I know alot about this as I am a Janitorial Supply distributor and we sell those types of products.

VCT is cheap (relative to the other choices). If I had a show place where no work got done and it was for display VCT is a fine choice. I pull my cars in and out. Do small project as measured by the stuff I see on this board and part a snowblower. On a rainy day my kids can play hockey if the cars are outside and VCT woould get too beat up IMHO for my usage.

You will find that the Premium Sport/Drain tile makes for great hockey

 

[turbowoodworker]

Just to confuse things, I think that before you make your decision you should consider what Citrogarage has done in his shop. Bomb proof!

garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36583&page=21

 

[Garage Flooring]

Just to confuse things, I think that before you make your decision you should consider what Citrogarage has done in his shop. Bomb proof!

garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36583&page=21

I have nothing I would even begin to compare to that and I LOVE when people reuse what is available to them. What an awesome job.