Totally Frustrated.

[Eddieb794]

My floor that I did with Performance Epoxy has already started to yellow. One side is really bad. It has only been down about 5 weeks. I can't believe looking at it that is is being caused by the sun. Door is not open that much.
Now I have to fiqure out how to fix it. Does anyone know if I can sand just the clear coat I put down? I wouldn't go with their clear coat again.

 

[nathank]

Do you have pics?

 

[Eddieb794]

Here are some pics I just took.

 

[TheBanker]

water?????

 

[Ruddy]

Seems like if it was the sun, the yellowing would be more consistent and distinct where it stops.
I have wondered about that too, but I have a North-East exposure, so we will see.

 

[rugerlady]

Call the office. It doesn't seem right that with very little exposure to UV that it would yellow that fast. Lets see what we can do to help with this.

 

[texas-saluki]

UV or something Else

Seems like if it was the sun, they yellowing would be more consistent and distinct where it stops.
I have wondered about that too, but I have a North-East exposure, so we will see.

I agree with Rudy that I have a hard time thinking this is a UV problem since it seems to end abruptly. Was the coating applied at different times or did something spill on part of it

Just seems there is another variable besides UV that we maybe overlooking

Chris

 

[thegarageguy]

no easy fix, resand, solvent wipe, re coat with a high grade epoxy, then top coat with a high grade urethane or polyaspartic.

 

[Nch209]

I'm following very CLOSE plan on dropping PE clear down this weekend. Please update with what shakes out!!!!!!!

 

[TheBanker]

dirty roller maybe? something in the mix? did you call christine and did they have an answer?

 

[bmwpower]

Yea, almost looks like contamination. Was that section put down with a certain batch of epoxy?

Was it put down on virgin concrete? Could something have leached up from the concrete? Did you properly rinse the concrete after the acid etch?

 

[Eddieb794]

Tryed to contact Christine this afternoon. She was in a meeting. Same roller and batch of epoxy. Floor was preped right. Not virgin concrete. Floor has not had any water on it.

 

[Nch209]

Is pic number 3 all clear coated, or just the right side? Anyone else having problems? I opened my containers already...maybe I should hold off applying. Keep us updated!

 

[Eddieb794]

All pictures are of floor clear coated. Only one section has yellowed so far.

 

[tasso]

Could it be acid leaching out? Was the floor acid etched prior? When I did mine the reseller said make sure all acid is thoroughly rinsed off with water.

 

[TheBanker]

keep in mind that you should always premix before combining A and B, even the clear.

 

[porphyre]

Tryed to contact Christine this afternoon. She was in a meeting. Same roller and batch of epoxy. Floor was preped right. Not virgin concrete. Floor has not had any water on it.

Same roller...?? Do you mean roller, as in frame, or roller as in cover? My garage was small enough to do single batches per coat. I used a new roller cover for each batch.

If you cleaned and re-used your roller cover, that may be the problem.

Was the area that's yellowing applied first or last?

 

[gabeancounter]

no easy fix, resand, solvent wipe, re coat with a high grade epoxy, then top coat with a high grade urethane or polyaspartic.

What would you use to resand? Plate sander with 40 grit screen? Got any recommendations on a urethane? solvent wipe= denatured alchol?

 

[Nch209]

Just pondering... could it be a mixing problem or off ratios???

 

[TheBanker]

gabeancounter has the same problem

 

[TheBanker]

nch, I would wait before putting that down with both eddie and gabean having the same problem.

 

[LoneGunman]

No offense to the OP but that looks like operator error in some way, I'm by no means a flooring expert but I've never seen any product fail like that, only one side. When I plate something and a section of the plating fails to plate properly it is always my fault. If it failed totally odds are it's still my screw up but there may be a chance the bath is bad, same concept.

 

[gabeancounter]

Lone Gunman, Go look at mine. Eddie's 3&4 pics looks like it could be an issue but having first hand experience I think it is just the picture. Mine has had a few more weeks to develop. I do think it is uv releated.

 

[Eddieb794]

No offense to the OP but that looks like operator error in some way, I'm by no means a flooring expert but I've never seen any product fail like that, only one side. When I plate something and a section of the plating fails to plate properly it is always my fault. If it failed totally odds are it's still my screw up but there may be a chance the bath is bad, same concept.

Well you should wait for the whole story to come out before laying blame. My floor was installed as per their instructions. I am a mechanic and pride myself in my abilities. I sanded the bad spots, etched, thriple rinsed the floor and used backing soda to neutralize the acid. The problem is in the clear coat not the gray base and flakes. Now I am getting more and more spots yellowing.

 

[Nch209]

nch, I would wait before putting that down with both eddie and gabean having the same problem.

I'm in a holding pattern. If it's uv related, I'll coat with somthing like a wolverine EnduraShield 2254 over PE's clear. If not, and it's. Product flaw,well I got ALOT of product sitting and don't want to even think about reordering and breaking the budget.

 

[Nch209]

By the way, is the base coat the same as the clear---just with the grey pigments added?

 

[thegarageguy]

By the way, is the base coat the same as the clear---just with the grey pigments added?

Are you saying that your final top coat is the same product as the base coat, just pigmented? So it's an epoxy top coat and no urethane? If so, this may be the problem. Most epoxies amber, polyurethanes slows down the process and I believe polyaspartics stop the process.

Back in the day, before polyaspartics, my guys would miss a small spot somewhere with the urethane and a year or so later an amber spot would develop. Nothing you can do, its ambered through and through. Lightly sand, solvent wipe (xylene, acetone or denatured alcohol), the recoat, re broadcast, re seal and top coat with a urethane.

***** to see this after your diligence, hopefully the manufacturer you delt with will make it right. Let us know.

 

[Nch209]

Top the above.... I am NOT saying that... I am asking if it's the same or different.

 

[TheBanker]

gabean, its only been a few weeks. Do you think it can be UV in that short of time?

 

[Eddieb794]

Ok, can someone tell me what happen to the thread about Performance Epoxy. I can't find it even when doing a search.

 

[TheBanker]

Eddie it looks like it is gone. Maybe Gabeancounter had it deleted??

 

[gabeancounter]

Yes, I asked to have it removed.
Nobody has contacted me and no deals for me.
I still think the resolution was wrong.
It seemed to me that most thought I was over reacting.
I will start a new thread after I get everything fixed with pictures start to finish and how the whole situation was handled and what this floor wound up costing after all said and done.

But I was able to get things cleaned back out and took a few pics! Here is a sample.

 

[TheBanker]

awww it was such a good long story from beginning to end with a lot of good info.

 

[Eddieb794]

I didn't think you were overreacting. I still am not happy with the whole outcome. I have to pay more money out of pocket to replace what was defective. I almost didn't buy their clear coat and now am kicking myself for not purchasing some that was uv rated from the start. Plus now I have to buy new spike shoes.

 

[bmwpower]

Confused. So the clear you guys used is NOT rated for UV exposure?

 

[Nch209]

Dang, I wish that other thread didn't get deleted. I am glad I caught it before I layer my clear... It helped me out.

 

[gabeancounter]

Confused. So the clear you guys used is NOT rated for UV exposure?

Yes, it was suppose to have UV protection. Knew that it was not as high as the epoxy coat version, but no epoxy should look like this after five weeks.

Eddie, without a doubt I am in the same boat about wasting additional funds to make it right. The shoes are going to be cheap compared to the rest of the cost. Xylene that I found needed to wipe the whole floor after sanding cost $20 for a gallon. I could not find a smaller can. This light sanding is a lot more than you think. As far as I can tell there will be no light sanding with a pole sander to scuff up the floor. That is bs. I have decided to rent a plate sander with the 11x17 screens to do this. I figure a couple screens, pad and rental will be $50. Another 2 rolls tape - $12. Mixing buckets $10. Squeegee $7.
If you decide to go with flake then it will cost much more. Best I can tell, if you heavy flake then you need a clear epoxy, then urethane.

My plan is to use the gray base, then stripe, then urethane. Seems to be the cheapest route while adding some charcter. $250. I am thinking I will be out another $350 atleast. If you flake then add cost of flake $50 plus another $200 for the clear epoxy.

Well, I wish I could undo removing the thread. It just bothered me to no end. I kept wanting to blow a gasket after reading some of the post. It does not seem to change what epoxy coat is willing to do for us anyways.

 

[bmwpower]

Are you saying there are different grades of epoxy coat? Maybe i missed it, but I only saw one on their website.

 

[gabeancounter]

Performance epoxy is owned by epoxy coat. Same building, same people, everything. Performanceepoxy.com. The PE version is alphatic versus epoxy coat version cycloalphatic. I think they also own discount epoxy and some others.

 

[nathank]

So did EC ever come out with WHY this happened? Do we know for sure it is UV related?

I'm on edge just waiting for this to happen to mine now. I used the same product most likely out of the same batch you guys did.