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Toughest rattle can paint?

Zmann

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Feb 24, 2019
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302
Location
Arizona
The 2k 2 part in a can clear that has been mentioned is by far the best and most durable rattle can spray IMO
it is fuel resistant and I have used it over regular rattle can paint on projects years ago that still look new
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Ilikeike

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Jan 8, 2015
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Northern Ca.
The most durable rattle can paint that I have ever used is Rustoleum High Performance Enamel. It is rated for industrial use and dries quick, hard and glossy. The second best has been John Deere paint.

The oil based is good, we use it on some industrial piping at work, I used it on my car hualer also.
But for small rattle can projects, not even close to the 2K. you need to try it for small projects. the only thing that is better, is hand mixed period...
 
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Bennylava

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Apr 17, 2012
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Cleburne, TX
The most durable rattle can paint that I have ever used is Rustoleum High Performance Enamel. It is rated for industrial use and dries quick, hard and glossy.

Any need to spray clear on it?

As for the 2K paints, is that like the brand or... a kind of rating/specification? Or both
 

CraigStu

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May 22, 2014
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Location
Blacksburg, Va
One other source is auto body shop suppliers. I have had them mix paint to color code on 3 different cars. Just call around to find one who can mix paint and put it in rattle cans. One was perfect, the other two close enough. They were a bumper cover so I painted the repair area heavy and faded away all around that small area. Then I cleared the entire cover w/ exactly the paint posted by Zmann. The color is one part but the clear 2 part.
 

50pascals

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May 26, 2020
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Rochester, NY
If all you need is black, I really like VHT epoxy cans. oops looks like they have gloss white now too.

A friend of mine who is a semi-professional rally car builder has tried them all. In Rally, basically the whole underside of the car gets sandblasted at every race. He now swears by the VHT epoxy.

I've started using it on some suspension pieces and it is pretty indestructible. I wash my parts with phosphoric acid first to create a black phosphate coating.
 

dogdog

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Nov 15, 2011
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Any need to spray clear on it?

As for the 2K paints, is that like the brand or... a kind of rating/specification? Or both

it's not a brand. Just a type of paint... usually you find them on auto paint supply stores and they are mixed by puncturing mechanism and once mixed have a limited shelve life. But they are better than any rattle can you would have find.

https://www.onestopaerosols.co.uk/1k-2k-paint-information/
 
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Bmw4life

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Apr 17, 2020
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207
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Canada
So from my research, nothing beats DTM (direct to metal) 2k epoxy primers.
I'm sandblasting a bunch of suspension parts, calipers etc. So I'll just prime them with eastwood stuff with a brush. No point spraying it.


Lots of people mentioned that there's no point paying for eastwood overpriced stuff, and that any epoxy primer can be brushed. For me, I find the price not bad at $80 for primer and activator.
I know SPI primer or PPG would be better, but I don't see them ship to Canada.
Either way, it seems nothing comes even close to compare to the epoxy primers.

I've read that stuff in the 2k spray can doesn't have much epoxy. It's mostly just the solvent, which makes sense. It would be impossible to spray that epoxy stuff from the spray can, given how think it is.

Maybe this explains why spray cans 2k primers, even on eastwoods own website, have such poor reviews.

So I think I've settled on trying to just brush on epoxy primer. In the end, epoxy primer is what professionals use.
For my use on suspension parts, imperfections are not a big deal.

You see, most of the paints mentioned in this thread, and 10 other threads on this forum about the same topic, all failed poorly.
I would paint it, and I could them scrape it off with my fingernails lol.
Yet all these can spray paints had amazing reviews online. I think those reviews are fake.

Now just gotta figure out what's the best topcoat for this primer.
 

isb cornbinder

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Nov 3, 2010
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Location
Pacific South West, BC, Canada
I have paid to more than a few cars painted, I was told that it is important to use a system from the same company. I paid $24,749.03 for the body and paint on my 1940 Ford. the job was the same company products from prime-coat to clearcoat.
If it is worth doing, I like to give it the best chance to be near perfect.
The colour is Ford Medium Wedgewood blue. HD called the colour Gunmetal Pearl.
The colour is a 100 year 2003 anniversary colour shared with 2003 Harley Davidson.
 

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tom86951

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May 14, 2005
Messages
155
Location
CA
I'm a big fan of rustoleum high performance enamel too -- much much better than their "2X ultracover" paint. I have used the catalyzed paint with the red button on the bottom, and can confirm it is next level tough, with chemical resistance you can't find elsewhere. For little metal things, powder coating at home is also an option.
 

Bmw4life

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Apr 17, 2020
Messages
207
Location
Canada
Guy when mentioning products, it would greatly help if you can either post a picture of a link to the product, as labels and versions change with years and some names are very similar.
 

ching0n

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Jul 21, 2016
Messages
1,496
I'm hoping someone here can school me on the easy way to do tough paint. I don't really have the room to use a spray rig properly. At least not right now. The first thing that comes to mind when you think of durable paint would be something mixed with a hardener. But can you get "durable" in a rattle can? If so, what brand would you go with?

How is it normally done? Can you just use whatever paint you want, as long as you make sure that your rattle can clear has hardener? Or does the paint itself need a hardner as well? I'm something of a painting newb. I'm reminded of those cans that have a button on the bottom, and once you press it, the hardener flows into the can with the rest of the clear. Then you mix it well by shaking.

Any help here would be greatly appreciated. I have a few small items around the house that I need to paint. But it never fails that the typical rattle can paint just isn't tough enough. It usually ends up scratching too easily or flaking off at some point.
Does it have to be sprayed? I've seen some tough enamels that can be brushed. For spray what comes to mind is appliance epoxy paint, tractor paint, and wheel paint or brake caliper paint. If you can cook it, some of those engine enamels or barbq grill paints get pretty hard once cured at temp.
 

MacMcMacmac

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Oct 21, 2014
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Location
canada
There is an epoxy called Car-Rep 2k that doesn't have anything that needs to be punctured and does not set up in the can. It is activated by the pressure differential between the can and atmosphere. Don't ask me how that works.

I find it, and Spray Max 2k to be very susceptible to orange peel though. I picked this up at Princess Auto. It was about $10 less per can than what NAPA wanted for the Spray Max.20240509_155825.jpg
 

Bmw4life

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Apr 17, 2020
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207
Location
Canada
This is a clear coat. I assume there's a primer and a paint prior to that? Same brand, similar can?
 

isb cornbinder

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Nov 3, 2010
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7,073
Location
Pacific South West, BC, Canada
I know it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions. This is not the time to experiment with I thought it was a good idea.
I have Canadian Tremclad painted machines with 50 year old paint. I do not think there is a paint that will resist a hard scrape.
Tremclad n Canada and Rustoleum in the US are the same company. Are the paints the same? I do not know for sure.
 

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