Towing straps and lifting chain?

[silentpoet]

I guess straps and chains are tools, but if this is the wrong place to ask, please move it. Getting ready to pull the motor on my 68 Cadillac SDV. Part of my plan is to tow the car out so I can clean and organize the garage. I've got the cherry picker bought. But it has no lifting chain.

So on towing straps, loop or hook on the end? Why and what would work best? TSC has a 17000 pound strap for 19.99 with loops. I only need to pull it maybe 50 feet. With the motor and transmission removed it should be maybe 4000 pounds or a little less. I have never really flat towed anything so any tips for pulling it will be appreciated.


On the chain I have a couple of questions. The 472 has two built in lifting points. Would it work best to pull from those or use the lifting chains you can get at parts stores? If I just buy chain what size/load rating to get? At least I have done this before.

Related, but not really a tool question. What is the best way to seal up a project car from the weather since the driver's window is out? Any tips on this, what I did before didn't work great.

 

[theoldwizard1]

For a tow strap (that you do NOT plan to use for stretch and yank) the 2" HF one are adequate. I like ones with double loop. Usually you can find something "solid" under the car to put one end over. Then you and feed the other end through that loop. Get a second strap. A good sized shackle (or 2) is always worthwhile for connecting (securely) to some kind of eye hole.

 

[athyen]

For a tow strap (that you do NOT plan to use for stretch and yank) the 2" HF one are adequate. I like ones with double loop. Usually you can find something "solid" under the car to put one end over. Then you and feed the other end through that loop. Get a second strap. A good sized shackle (or 2) is always worthwhile for connecting (securely) to some kind of eye hole.

To each his own, but I highly recommend NOT using shackles or metal hooks to connect tow straps. I am have seen many jeeps have their front or back glass shattered by flying metal connections when tow straps snap. The harbor freight ones are very prone to braking... The load rating on them is low compared to similarly sized and priced straps from other places. If you are going to connect tow straps together, there are two good options. The first is to tie them directly together, but that is hard to get undone once pulled on. The second is to use a large diameter dowel rod, or similar wooden rod. I use broom handles cut into ~6" sections. Its a little difficult to explain, put here is a picture, hopefully... They use a magazine, which i have seen done, it does work. However, most guys I know just throw a couple dowel rods in the toolbox on the jeep.

 

[sberry]

The bright yellow on the right looks like HF, they are not lifting rated but they are very good. I found a cut one the other day and used it till it broke with a bulldozer, made it easy to toss the thing.

 

[Heavymetalmechanic]

Shackles are fine if used to connect the tow cable/rope/sling to a suitably rated point on the vehichle. I agree with not using one to connect 2 straps together though. And make sure you toss a heavy blanket over the middle of the strap when it's under load to dampen any explosive release of tension should something fail. I have a 3" 20000 lbs recovery strap that I like, picked it up at a 4x4 shop, sorry I don't remember the brand. Tow straps are not designed or rated for lifting, use a rated chain or lifting straps for pulling out the engine

Use appropriately rated lifting eyes and chain for hoisting out the engine. Lifting eyes are rated only for straight line loading on the same axis as the threaded stud and need to be fully threaded in until the flange makes contact, use washers if the stud is longer then the hole is deep. I'm sorry but I'm not familiar enough with that make/model to advise you on how to rig it.

Best of luck, sounds like a fun project.

 

[athyen]

The bright yellow on the right looks like HF, they are not lifting rated but they are very good. I found a cut one the other day and used it till it broke with a bulldozer, made it easy to toss the thing.

It could be a HF one, the picture is not mine, found it on the internet... Haha, I didn't look to closely at the straps in the picture.

Shackles are fine if used to connect the tow cable/rope/sling to a suitably rated point on the vehichle. I agree with not using one to connect 2 straps together though. And make sure you toss a heavy blanket over the middle of the strap when it's under load to dampen any explosive release of tension should something fail. I have a 3" 20000 lbs recovery strap that I like, picked it up at a 4x4 shop, sorry I don't remember the brand. Tow straps are not designed or rated for lifting, use a rated chain or lifting straps for pulling out the engine

Use appropriately rated lifting eyes and chain for hoisting out the engine. Lifting eyes are rated only for straight line loading on the same axis as the threaded stud and need to be fully threaded in until the flange makes contact, use washers if the stud is longer then the hole is deep. I'm sorry but I'm not familiar enough with that make/model to advise you on how to rig it.

Best of luck, sounds like a fun project.

When I read that post, I assumed he meant to attach two straps. I probably read it wrong! Sorry oldwizard! Yes, shackles are fine for attaching to the vehicle.

The heavy blanket/mat is great advice to follow also.

 

[CNGsaves]

Best way to seal a broken window is cutout cardboard in shape of broken window. Tape it into place so it stays. Then use very thick mil plastic sheeting to cover the entire window, making sure you go up over the door frame. Use good quality clear tape to secure all the edges so rain can't get in. The entire perimeter on the sides need taped so that water can't get in.

UV from sun will eventually break up the plastic, but it's cheap so just add another layer.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Shackles are fine if used to connect the tow cable/rope/sling to a suitably rated point on the vehichle.

That was the idea was trying to convey !

Those little hold down loops on the back of imported car are a good tow point, but they are probably too small for a tow strap loop. Perfect place for a shackle.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The heavy blanket/mat is great advice to follow also.

I also like the stick/rolled up magazine tip to prevent loop jam up !

 

[57c]

i just use whatever 5/16 or larger chain i have around to pull the motor. in a pinch i've even cut seatbelts out and used those to pull a yard motor... just tied them in a knot around exhaust manifold. i would use factory lift point with chain if i could. .run the chain between them and hook the cherry picker on a little forard of the carb if you just pull the motor or a little behind carb if you pull trans with motor. that tilts the motor back a little. then have a ratcheting strap from cherry picker hook to back of motor trans that you can use to pull up on back of motor to get it over the rad.

for pulling the car out... unless you got stuck brakes or steep drieway almost anything will tow it.. but i like 5/16 or 3/8 chain because it doesnt get cut by sharp edges and you can make loops or fasten it arou d something by sticking a bolt and nut thru it or using chain grab hooks.

 

[silentpoet]

Thanks guys, I went with a lifting plate from oreilly's. Still haven't bought the tow strap, wanted to check a couple of places and verify that TSC had the best price in town.

 

[madcrisis]

As far as chain goes I prefer 3/8 heavy duty trucking chain ( i forget the grades but the good stuff). Plenty of strength many times over to pull a motor. And if your only going fifty feet with the car the chain will be fine. just have someone in the towed car to hit the brakes. If you want a strap theyre always helpful to have around. There are three types of straps tho, recovery, towing, and lifting. Recovery straps stretch. Tow straps are more stiff and do not handle shock loads well, but are great for slowly moving vehicles. And lifting are ONLY for lifting.

Basically anything will tow the vehicle fifty feet (probably even those cheap tow ropes). I like the smittybilt recovery straps, good price and quality. As for pulling motors, It never hurts to have chain on hand. If you want to save money just get a length of decent 3/8 and it will solve all of your problems.

 

[justme-]

Chain is rated in grade 43 (light weight - load binding chain), grade 70 (gold color - high tensile- load binding chain), grade 100 with blue ends bright silver chain recovery rated high tensile.

grade 43 is cheap and weak utility chain. Osha and other organisations that follow safety procedures (tow trucks) will use 43 for securing loads (like cars on a tow truck) and 70 for securing heavy loads (heavy equipment) but only 100 or higher for recovery, which means pulling.
I don't believe 100 is rated for lifting as the wll/break limit are a higher factor for overhead lifting. As to pulling your engine out - grade 43 is fine - you're lifting a few hundred pounds and you won't be getting under it for any reason. Most engine hoists have grade 43.

You may want to look at a j-hook chain for towing it out. You don't need anything fancy for the basics. I carry an 8' grade 43 in my truck all the time - j hook on one end and grab hook on the other. I've pulled out quite a few cars stuck in snow banks with it over the years, and used it to pull my truck out once too. Not a recovery chain....they make grade 100 versions.

 

[jayoldschool]

I use one of these, attach the chain to front of one head, back of the other. Engines come out easily.

I use my yellow strap to pull vehicles around, and to remove truck beds.