Tracing an outlet box

[darcyh]

Hello:

I'm attaching plywood to the garage wall. There are several switches and outlets requiring holes to be cut in the plywood to accommodate the box.

Does anyone have any 'tricks' for outlining an electrical box?

I take a sharpie marker and ink the edge of the box and quickly push the panel against the studs to hopefully give you and outline of the box so I know where to cut the hole.

Anyone have a better way?

Thanks

Dave

 

[p_mori7]

Measure thrice, cut once.

 

[ishiboo]

Measure thrice, cut once.

+1. Lots of tips and tricks and devices out there, the best and easiest way is to just measure and cut by hand.

 

[p_mori7]

Thinking about it, perhaps you could use some Kraft paper. Usually comes in rolls 2' wide. Use your plywood to make a 4x8 sheet of paper. Use the paper over where the plywood would go on the wall, easy to mark or cut out the boxes on the paper, then lay the paper onto the plywood.

I used a similar method when I replaced a vinyl floor in a bathroom.

 

[pattenp]

Red lipstick will work a lot better than the Sharpie pen.

 

[Zeke]

I've used the paper trick and due to the slop in the paper, the locations were off a bit.

 

[jake26]

I tried to use the lipstick trick to mark drywall but I have an innate ability to never install flush boxes so the lipstick marked only a small portion of the gangbox. Now I just measure.

 

[MrMark]

Let's face it, it's really hard to do with close tolerance. I wouldn't be putting up plywood in a garage on the walls instead of drywall but if I did I would probably try to cut out the outlets like it was drywall - with a rotozip, and see how that went. It only works on metal mud rings though as it will eat the plastic boxes. Super Blue Carlon may be OK, but the regular plastic are a no go.

 

[KenC]

Let's face it, it's really hard to do with close tolerance. I wouldn't be putting up plywood in a garage on the walls instead of drywall but if I did I would probably try to cut out the outlets like it was drywall - with a rotozip, and see how that went. It only works on metal mud rings though as it will eat the plastic boxes. Super Blue Carlon may be OK, but the regular plastic are a no go.

Yep, just install the rock loosely with a few nails/screws. Plunge the rotozip into the box, gently move to the edge and over to the outside. Trace the outline and DONE. Leaves 1/8" gap all the way around. It can be done with plastic with a deft touch, but metal is much easier.

 

[DRP6833]

I've used chalk on the outlet box.

 

[1991Syclone]

http://www.harborfreight.com/handymark-drywall-tool-97087.html

Not sure how well it would to on plywood though.

 

[KCarGuy]

Pick up some Blue Cue Tip Chalk from a sports store in the Pool Table area.
Cheap, and easy to throw in your toolbox and works good for leaving an image.

 

[John in OH]

I've used chalk on the outlet box.

+1 ... chalk works pretty well and doesn't make a mess like lipstick.

 

[MrMark]

The problem with chalk in an application like this is that the panel - a very big awkward panel - has to be lifted and positioned. It is nearly impossible to put that big awkward panel exactly where it needs to be in one shot so that the chalk is in exactly the right spot when it hits. It just doesn't lend itself to this application which requires absolute precision.

You can try measuring off marks made on the floor using a framing square but the problem is you are never going to be absolutely sure if on the inside or outside of the box.

Look at any "pro" drywall job where they cut out outlets every day and you will see that they are usually a butcher job and they basically get it close and fill in with mud. You don't have that option on plywood so I guess you use the rotozip or do the best you can and buy big cover plates. Since you are going with plywood looks are not that important in the first place.

 

[KenC]

Posted earlier in support of Rotozip, but if you are going to measure: be sure to measure from the ceiling or upper piece of ply/sheetrock, not floor, 'cause your sheet isn't going to touch the floor. Also, measure from the adjacent sheet, not a stud or something.

These seem basic, but it's amazing how many times I've seen guys measure from the floor using a square, have a awsh** moment when they set it on the wall.

I layout using a sheetrock square, the 4' guys. Lots better than any other method I've tried.

 

[darcyh]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll try the chalk trick next. I like the HF tool as well.

Always learnin' something here!

Regards,

Dave

 

[Falcon67]

Posted earlier in support of Rotozip, but if you are going to measure: be sure to measure from the ceiling or upper piece of ply/sheetrock, not floor, 'cause your sheet isn't going to touch the floor. Also, measure from the adjacent sheet, not a stud or something.

These seem basic, but it's amazing how many times I've seen guys measure from the floor using a square, have a awsh** moment when they set it on the wall.

I layout using a sheetrock square, the 4' guys. Lots better than any other method I've tried.

X2. And either measure and mark each line or write them down. Don't get too upset if your measure twice, cut once turns into measure, mark, cut, cuss, scrap, re-measure, mark, cut, install. It's just a thang, no big deal.

 

[Toolfool]

I'm reading this thread and going, WTF ?! I forget that not everyone has the same skill sets. As a finish carpenter, I have no problems with the 'measure, mark (the back of the plywood), cut' method. Only way I've ever done it. (and TMI from you guys carrying lipstick around).

 

[Falcon67]

I'm reading this thread and going, WTF ?! I forget that not everyone has the same skill sets. As a finish carpenter, I have no problems with the 'measure, mark (the back of the plywood), cut' method. Only way I've ever done it. (and TMI from you guys carrying lipstick around).

I'm usually pretty good at mark the back, cut and hang - however, I fail to explain how I made such an obtuse and over sized hole for a 3 gang switch in a 35 1/2" x 96" OSB panel. It was the last cut I made on that day - even the oversided switch cover could not fill the hack. And that was just after I did two panels that lapped over a window, both with 4x4 cutouts for outlets and the window hole. Those fit snug. That panel with the 3 gang is now shelving scrap! After that, it was "I quit", turned out the lights and locked up.

 

[210Hardtop]

The secret tools that I use, are..............tape measure and pencil!

 

[Norcal]

A box that is not flush w/ the finished surface is a sign of piss poor workmanship. Nothing worse then floating receptacles, shattering the wallplate(s) whenever a attachment plug is inserted, seen this even in expensive homes.

See NEC 314.20 , 2008 Edition.

314.20 In Wall or Ceiling. In walls or ceilings with a surface
of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombusnoncombustible
material, boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate
shall be installed so that the front edge of the box, plaster ring,
extension ring, or listed extender will not be set back of the
finished surface more than 6 mm (1⁄4 in.).
In walls and ceilings constructed of wood or other combustible
surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension
rings, or listed extenders shall be flush with the finished
surface or project therefrom.


Underline by me.

 

[blackdart66]

Some may frown on this.....but I have used a remodel box for this application. Run the wire close to where you want the outlet (make sure wire is secured per code) cut hole in panel for box, poke wire through box hole,install panel, install box. done perfect.

 

[Falcon67]

Some may frown on this.....but I have used a remodel box for this application. Run the wire close to where you want the outlet (make sure wire is secured per code) cut hole in panel for box, poke wire through box hole,install panel, install box. done perfect.

LOL - done that too. I wanted an outlet next to the big door in a narrow channel between the studs there. Cut the hole, shoved the box and plug through from the back, mounted the wall panel, tightened up the box. Worked good. I have 6 plugs scattered along the side and back wall - probably will wish I'd done the same thing there.

 

[djd99]

I did my hole 30 x 40 with a tape measure and pencil I only had to scrap 2 pieces witch I repurpused for other projects. Other methods still have margins for error and still mistakes happen, so learn to do it the right way. Mine was a pita I have outlets every 4 feet.

 

[PRH44]

I always measure and cut. I have been rotoziped and routered to death by so called professional drywall hangers. Thay have mangled my wires on several occasions only to receive a stiff back charge for repairs. This has become such an epidemic we have devised protective plates to install on rough in boxes to protect against such destruction.
Drywall hangers hate us for protecting our work
My take on this is anyone that sticks a drill or router bit in a electrical box needs head examined.

 

[Norcal]

I always measure and cut. I have been rotoziped and routered to death by so called professional drywall hangers. Thay have mangled my wires on several occasions only to receive a stiff back charge for repairs. This has become such an epidemic we have devised protective plates to install on rough in boxes to protect against such destruction.
Drywall hangers hate us for protecting our work
My take on this is anyone that sticks a drill or router bit in a electrical box needs head examined.

No, the drywall needs to be removed & the wiring replaced at the hangers expense. Do that a few times & they will learn or go out of biz.

 

[MrMark]

I always measure and cut. I have been rotoziped and routered to death by so called professional drywall hangers. Thay have mangled my wires on several occasions only to receive a stiff back charge for repairs. This has become such an epidemic we have devised protective plates to install on rough in boxes to protect against such destruction.
Drywall hangers hate us for protecting our work
My take on this is anyone that sticks a drill or router bit in a electrical box needs head examined.

I can see the problem of not getting the wires back far enough in a plastic box, but I don't rotozip them (or use plastic boxes too often) because I didn't have good success with the thin wall plastic boxes. BUT, I can't see how anyone could rotozip wires in a metal box with a mud ring. The wires should all be tucked behind the mud ring making it impossible to hit them. The rotozip bit is only supposed it stick a mm or so past the drywall on the inside.

 

[MrMark]

Anyone who can cut out multiple boxes on a sheet of plywood to mm tolerances by measuring is a genius, that's all I have to say.

 

[Toolfool]

Anyone who can cut out multiple boxes on a sheet of plywood to mm tolerances by measuring is a genius, that's all I have to say.

Thank you.