Track Saw - Guide Rail Connectors

[FMC1959]

I have the Makita 2x18v cordless track saw, with the 59" track. For a while, I have been contemplating getting either the 118" track for times I need to rip a 4x8 plywood sheet. Otherwise, go with the connecting guide rails and then either get a 39" or another 59" track.

Anyone have experience with the guide rail connectors...specifically the Makita ones?

The 118" is almost 10 ft long, making a bit more troublesome to store and also maneuver when I need to use it in place within the house. It is also more expensive than the connectors and 2nd track, but the big advantage is, I presume, it is for sure dead straight.

Going option 2, with connector and 2nd track, for anyone having used one; is it super straight? Is it smooth when the saw goes over the joined sections? And finally, does it join together (and come apart) easily or is it finicky and you need to play around to get it setup properly.

If I knew that option 2, 2 x 59" + track connectors is identical in just about every way, then for me, it is a no brainer. For the times I need to do 8 foot, option 2 is better in that it is easier to store and cheaper to buy for the same end result.

**** What is too bad is that they went all the way to 118". For an 8 foot cut, which is what most would use this for, 96 + 10 for about 106" total would have been fine. At 118, they could have added another 10" or so to get 128-130" and you could do 10 foot, which would have been convenient.

 

[jar944]

The singles are 55 not 59 so its 110" connected or 118".

Get the 118. I have 2 of the 55s and a 118 and the rails stuck to connect compared to just grabbing the long rail.

 

[Voi]

I started with the connectors & later stumbled into a deal for the 118" track.

I only had one issue with the Makita connectors & I figured out how to avoid it other times & everything worked fine. I don't recall what that trick was, however.

Everything was straight & tracked right over the junction.

Glad to have the full track, however.

 

[loganb]

I haven't found anyone who has used both the long one and dual short ones who were happy with the dual short ones and a connector. If its a must for the shorter ones due to travel needs ok, but for all other purposes everything I've seen is get the 118"

 

[mike93lx]

I tend to just make half the cut, move the track and finish it, although I do have two sections that I sometimes join.

Storing a long track is really unappealing for how often I really need to rip more than 4ft with a level of precision that I can't achieve with moving the track.

Keep in mind the tracks are just aluminum, so if the long track is too long for what you need, you can just cut it down

 

[slowtwitch73]

Yeah the connectors are pretty lame.

 

[tyyost]

I have the Makita saw and two 59” rails. While the connectors work for me, I would prefer the longer rail. The issue I have is that while the connectors join the two rails that do not **** together perfectly square, so using a straight edge to align them is mandatory. I also mark more tic marks to be sure I keep the tracks in line than I would with the rail not joined. When transitioning to different work pieces I also recheck alignment to make sure the rails don’t shift.

 

[turner66]

Single long rail is my preference in the shop, but if I need to be more mobile and compact and connect 2 rails the best way to solve alignment problems that happen with most factory rails/connectors (including Festool, Makita, etc) is to use quality aftermarket self aligning guide rail connectors like the ones from TSO Products. Also, never **** the ends of the rails together for alignment when connecting them, always leave a small gap at the ends and allow the rail connectors to drive the alignment.

 

[signcrafter]

I also started off with the two 55" rails and connector. It worked but ***** to have to take apart and put together to switch from 4' and 8' cuts. You must use a guide to align them for every cut you make when joined. I used my 6' level. They use little set screws and I ended up buying a bunch extra because you will loose one eventually. Like everyone else I ended up getting the long rail and have an extra 55" laying around now. Save the headache and just get the long rail to start with.

 

[mike93lx]

I also started off with the two 55" rails and connector. It worked but ***** to have to take apart and put together to switch from 4' and 8' cuts. You must use a guide to align them for every cut you make when joined. I used my 6' level. They use little set screws and I ended up buying a bunch extra because you will loose one eventually. Like everyone else I ended up getting the long rail and have an extra 55" laying around now. Save the headache and just get the long rail to start with.

If I end up with a long rail at some point I'd likely cut down one of my 55's for doors it would be nice to have something a little less bulky when doing 28-36" cuts

 

[purplezr2]

I got the 118 and it is the only way to go for sheet goods. I would suggest toolnut had the best price+shipping cost. I believe mine was around 200 USD

 

[tak1313]

I have the Makita. I debated about the long track, but got two shorties instead because:

1. Two shorts are cheaper than one long (which is odd because all the tracks are likely one long extrusion that gets cut down to size).
2. Even then, I have yet to use the extra length myself after 4 years.
3. Makita, like all brands, have issues with tracks not being perfectly straight (they are extrusions, after all, and not machined), and I have been able to find two that are straight. I imagined the longer the piece, the higher the likelihood of a bow/warp at some point along the extrusion.

When I have played with the connector, I found that for max stability, you need two - one in each slot. In fact, I don't know if it's still the case, but at the time, you could ONLY buy the connectors in single packs in the U.S., but it was available in other countries in two packs.

I actually have 3 tracks in my pursuit of 2 straight ones. One has a SLIGHT center bow. I plan to cut it down to a short track with less/minimal bow (like how they sell the 39"), but haven't gotten around to it. No, I didn't spend more on 3 than one long track because the 3rd (straight) track was on the clearance shelf at the local HD, I assume it was a return or someone never picked it up, so got them to knock it down to $40.

 

[tak1313]

As an aside, has anyone tried the rails under that brand Powertec? They SEEM to have fewer complaints about warps/bows/etc. and are cheaper than OEM

 

[mike93lx]

As an aside, has anyone tried the rails under that brand Powertec? They SEEM to have fewer complaints about warps/bows/etc. and are cheaper than OEM

One of my rails is powertec and it works fine

 

[Walkers]

I am getting ready to start on a casita and house addition. I had been hunting for a panel saw to have on site for cutting sheet goods, but this track saw looks to be a better option.
Do you just set the track in place and cut? No clamping? Does it ever shift?

 

[Voi]

I am getting ready to start on a casita and house addition. I had been hunting for a panel saw to have on site for cutting sheet goods, but this track saw looks to be a better option.
Do you just set the track in place and cut? No clamping? Does it ever shift?

I have cut both melamine and MDO without clamps and have not had shifting. Both are slicker than standard plywood or OSB.

 

[slowtwitch73]

I am getting ready to start on a casita and house addition. I had been hunting for a panel saw to have on site for cutting sheet goods, but this track saw looks to be a better option.
Do you just set the track in place and cut? No clamping? Does it ever shift?

You can do either, but depending on the surface of the wood (rough,smooth, dirty), if it is laying dead flat (as opposed to bowed, etc), and if the cut *really* matters, I will use clamps.

 

[signcrafter]

If I end up with a long rail at some point I'd likely cut down one of my 55's for doors it would be nice to have something a little less bulky when doing 28-36" cuts

That is my plan, just haven't had a need yet so still deciding what size to make them.

Side note, festool makes a door clamp that lets you cut doors without taking them off the hinges.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00149B7W6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I am getting ready to start on a casita and house addition. I had been hunting for a panel saw to have on site for cutting sheet goods, but this track saw looks to be a better option.
Do you just set the track in place and cut? No clamping? Does it ever shift?

The tracks have a non slip pad on the back that holds them in place for the most part. I have noticed that if I'm not using dust collection and let the dust build up a little when doing multiple cuts that the dust will let the track slide around a little. If the cut is critical I take the time to clamp it down just to be sure. This is also where one long track is better then two short tracks since the short tracks technically have a pivot point. For me the piece of mind of throwing the long track up there and knowing it is a straight cut is worth the price, especially when most sheet goods cost at least half the price of the long rail nowadays. Two off cuts and your long track would be paid for.

 

[mike93lx]

Side note, festool makes a door clamp that lets you cut doors without taking them off the hinges

For $61, I'll pop the pins and take the mess outside at the same time

 

[jar944]

Do you just set the track in place and cut? No clamping? Does it ever shift?

I've cut a lot of plywood with my saw, and don't own track clamps. I've never seen a need to clamp the track.

 

[Firebrick43]

For $61, I'll pop the pins and take the mess outside at the same time

So you won't deal with a long lightweight track but will wrestle a heavy door on and off its hinges?

 

[tak1313]

Rail clamps are pretty cheap these days in case you come across a situation where you really need it (I haven't had the need to use them yet even though I have a pair). Get a set anyway because they're cheap, and they have a SIGNIFICANT advantage over trying to finagle with regular clamps - they use the underside of the slot, so do not interfere with the saw.

 

[mike93lx]

I am getting ready to start on a casita and house addition. I had been hunting for a panel saw to have on site for cutting sheet goods, but this track saw looks to be a better option.
Do you just set the track in place and cut? No clamping? Does it ever shift?

I only clamp if the work isn't flat or is very slippery. Not often, but it's worth owning a couple clamps

 

[mike93lx]

So you won't deal with a long lightweight track but will wrestle a heavy door on and off its hinges?

Yup.

Especially when It means I don't have to cut out of position and can avoid doing it in finished spaces

 

[Walkers]

I have cut both melamine and MDO without clamps and have not had shifting. Both are slicker than standard plywood or OSB.

You can do either, but depending on the surface of the wood (rough,smooth, dirty), if it is laying dead flat (as opposed to bowed, etc), and if the cut *really* matters, I will use clamps.

That is my plan, just haven't had a need yet so still deciding what size to make them.

Side note, festool makes a door clamp that lets you cut doors without taking them off the hinges.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00149B7W6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The tracks have a non slip pad on the back that holds them in place for the most part. I have noticed that if I'm not using dust collection and let the dust build up a little when doing multiple cuts that the dust will let the track slide around a little. If the cut is critical I take the time to clamp it down just to be sure. This is also where one long track is better then two short tracks since the short tracks technically have a pivot point. For me the piece of mind of throwing the long track up there and knowing it is a straight cut is worth the price, especially when most sheet goods cost at least half the price of the long rail nowadays. Two off cuts and your long track would be paid for.

I've cut a lot of plywood with my saw, and don't own track clamps. I've never seen a need to clamp the track.

Thanks, that makes this a really attract option.

 

[signcrafter]

For $61, I'll pop the pins and take the mess outside at the same time

To each their own. To me 61 bucks to save me time and the chance of dinging up a door while carrying it through a house is well worth it. A door costs way more then 61 bucks and one accident and the clamps pay for themselves. I value my time at more then 61 bucks, especially when I do a floor with multiple doors to cut down in one area. Mess is a non issue with a quality saw and shop vac, maybe the cheaper saws don't have good dust control? But I have used my saw to cut lathe and plaster out when making cuts just because it creates very little dust. I can have 6 doors cut down and what little dust it makes cleaned up before you get one door outside and cut and back hung. I just posted it as an option for those that may not know about it, not to start a ******* match about how to cut a door the cheapest way. If carrying doors outside is your preferred method and works for you, great.

 

[mike93lx]

To each their own. To me 61 bucks to save me time and the chance of dinging up a door while carrying it through a house is well worth it. A door costs way more then 61 bucks and one accident and the clamps pay for themselves. I value my time at more then 61 bucks, especially when I do a floor with multiple doors to cut down in one area. Mess is a non issue with a quality saw and shop vac, maybe the cheaper saws don't have good dust control? But I have used my saw to cut lathe and plaster out when making cuts just because it creates very little dust. I can have 6 doors cut down and what little dust it makes cleaned up before you get one door outside and cut and back hung. I just posted it as an option for those that may not know about it, not to start a ******* match about how to cut a door the cheapest way. If carrying doors outside is your preferred method and works for you, great.

I'm just a homeowner, not a trim carpenter. The frequency that I cut doors averages well less than one per year

 

[FMC1959]

Single long rail is my preference in the shop, but if I need to be more mobile and compact and connect 2 rails the best way to solve alignment problems that happen with most factory rails/connectors (including Festool, Makita, etc) is to use quality aftermarket self aligning guide rail connectors like the ones from TSO Products. Also, never **** the ends of the rails together for alignment when connecting them, always leave a small gap at the ends and allow the rail connectors to drive the alignment.

I am guessing these are the TSO connectors you are referring to?

TSO GRC-12 Self-Aligning Guide Rail Connectors (61-415 A)

The first Self-Alighning Guide Rail Connector for Festool FS Series, Makita and Triton track saw guide rails. The GRC-12 Next Gen is completely self-contained and self-aligning. Simply slide the GRC-12 into your guide rail T-slots and firmly tighten the set screws - then you’re done.

www.ustoolandfastener.com

I have no experience with TSO but often see their products and see all their stuff appears to be high end quality products. Does anyone else have experience with these?

 

[FMC1959]

I hear the large majority of responders that the 118" is the way to go. My hesitation is in part storing it, as well as bringing it to where I need to make the cut. At almost 10 feet, not easy to do either.

Also, to the many with the 118", any issues with warping or twists? I have had my 59" (in Canada they offer 59" part # 199141-8...probably because 59" is 1.5 meters) for 6 years and there have been just a few instances when the 118" would have been needed. I just start the cut and then move the rail...not a big deal but would still be nice to have a long option.

 

[FMC1959]

I'm just s homeowner, not a trim carpenter. The frequency that I cut doors averages well less than one per year

Same goes for me...

 

[FMC1959]

I am in no hurry, within 2 months we will be in BF mode and if I see a good deal on the 118", I will definitely jump on it. Otherwise if I hear that either the TSO connectors or other solution is really effective, then I might possibly go that route.

The 118" would definitely be the best cutting solution. While my 59" + connectors + a 39" track would cover me for ripping plywood, but also give me lots of versatility, easy to store, and save a couple of dollars.

 

[jar944]

I am in no hurry, within 2 months we will be in BF mode and if I see a good deal on the 118", I will definitely jump on it. Otherwise if I hear that either the TSO connectors or other solution is really effective, then I might possibly go that route.

The 118" would definitely be the best cutting solution. While my 59" + connectors + a 39" track would cover me for ripping plywood, but also give me lots of versatility, easy to store, and save a couple of dollars.

You can't rip a sheet of plywood with a 98" of track (59+39) ideally you would have about 10" over on each end, but in reality you need at least 7" longer than the item being cut, and 10" or so to not have to plunge cut. (2 55s just do it)

 

[FMC1959]

You can't rip a sheet of plywood with a 98" of track (59+39) ideally you would have about 10" over on each end, but in reality you need at least 7" longer than the item being cut, and 10" or so to not have to plunge cut. (2 55s just do it)

You are correct, I did a quick addition and for some reason came up with 108" rather than 98". Oh well, it sounded real good in my head!

 

[Voi]

I am guessing these are the TSO connectors you are referring to?

TSO GRC-12 Self-Aligning Guide Rail Connectors (61-415 A)

The first Self-Alighning Guide Rail Connector for Festool FS Series, Makita and Triton track saw guide rails. The GRC-12 Next Gen is completely self-contained and self-aligning. Simply slide the GRC-12 into your guide rail T-slots and firmly tighten the set screws - then you’re done.

www.ustoolandfastener.com

I have no experience with TSO but often see their products and see all their stuff appears to be high end quality products. Does anyone else have experience with these?

I don't have their rail connectors but have a few of their other products and have been very impressed.

There is a chance I might cut down my 118" rail for use on Baltic Birch. If I do that and can't score a similar deal on another 118" rail I'll order the TSO connectors. I'd be very surprised if they're not excellent.

 

[Max]

I am guessing these are the TSO connectors you are referring to?

TSO GRC-12 Self-Aligning Guide Rail Connectors (61-415 A)

The first Self-Alighning Guide Rail Connector for Festool FS Series, Makita and Triton track saw guide rails. The GRC-12 Next Gen is completely self-contained and self-aligning. Simply slide the GRC-12 into your guide rail T-slots and firmly tighten the set screws - then you’re done.

www.ustoolandfastener.com

I have no experience with TSO but often see their products and see all their stuff appears to be high end quality products. Does anyone else have experience with these?

I have a Festool which is track compatible with a Makita saw. The Festool uses that same type of connector as the TSO. FWIW I have no alignment issues with my 55’s.

 

[turner66]

I am guessing these are the TSO connectors you are referring to?

TSO GRC-12 Self-Aligning Guide Rail Connectors (61-415 A)

The first Self-Alighning Guide Rail Connector for Festool FS Series, Makita and Triton track saw guide rails. The GRC-12 Next Gen is completely self-contained and self-aligning. Simply slide the GRC-12 into your guide rail T-slots and firmly tighten the set screws - then you’re done.

www.ustoolandfastener.com

I have no experience with TSO but often see their products and see all their stuff appears to be high end quality products. Does anyone else have experience with these?

Yes, those are the right ones. TSO makes very high quality accessories. I have 2 sets of these to replace my Festool connectors. I also have both TSO guide rail squares as well as their parallel guide system. All the products are top quality for sure. The TSO connectors lock the rails very consistently and quite true as long as the extruded rail channels are manufactured true. Mine are, but i can't speak for all rails... And, the connectors have large flat set screws which won't indent the rails like the factory ones do. I'm satisfied with all the TSO products i've purchased over the years.

As a reminder of something i mentioned earlier, don't force the rails together to align off the ends, they are rarely cut perfectly square. If i leave a gap and align with the TSO connectors, my rails align very well.

FWIW - I bought a set of PowerTec connectors since they were cheap just to see how they were. They are simple flat steel bars that are narrower than the rail channels. pretty much worthless when it comes to consistent locking position in the channel... don't waste your money on those for sure

 

[FMC1959]

Yes, those are the right ones. TSO makes very high quality accessories. I have 2 sets of these to replace my Festool connectors. I also have both TSO guide rail squares as well as their parallel guide system. All the products are top quality for sure. The TSO connectors lock the rails very consistently and quite true as long as the extruded rail channels are manufactured true. Mine are, but i can't speak for all rails... And, the connectors have large flat set screws which won't indent the rails like the factory ones do. I'm satisfied with all the TSO products i've purchased over the years.

As a reminder of something i mentioned earlier, don't force the rails together to align off the ends, they are rarely cut perfectly square. If i leave a gap and align with the TSO connectors, my rails align very well.

FWIW - I bought a set of PowerTec connectors since they were cheap just to see how they were. They are simple flat steel bars that are narrower than the rail channels. pretty much worthless when it comes to consistent locking position in the channel... don't waste your money on those for sure

Thanks and good to know about the Powertecs'

 

[ez-duzit]

"

Track Saw - Guide Rail Connectors"​

are for those who value quantity over quality.

 

[FMC1959]

"

Track Saw - Guide Rail Connectors"​

are for those who value quantity over quality.

Thank you for that golden nugget of valuable information.

Your comment can be made about just about anything, and yet have zero foundation. Anyone who has a benchtop table saw versus a contractor or cabinet saw. Although the price differences are more, the reasoning can be the same. Anyone who has a BT saw might not have the room for a cabinet saw, or the electrical available. With a BT saw, you can take where you need quite easily and store without problems.

So to say BT saw owners "are for those who value quantity over quality", would not be fair.

Besides, the quality of work rarely is because of the equipment and almost always due to the skill of the worker.

 

[MannyLasVegas]

Just thought I'd drop by to say that Makita's quality control is piss-poor, as is their customer support.

Firstly, there seem to be two variants of their tracks. I bougth one 39" track and two 59" tracks from the same authorized retailer. When I joined the 39" and either of the two 59" tracks, the saw would get stuck at the seam. Looking closely, I notice the cross sections were slightly different:


The two 59" tracks had the same cross section but the ends were not cut precisely at 90°, so when joined using the Makita connector kit they two tracks didn't form a straight line.

I returned the lot. Then bought again just two 59" tracks from a different authorized retailer. I would have tried another brand but I had already bought the saw and wanted to give this a chance. To my surprise, the two tracks I got this time also had different cross sections, even though they had come from the same place, at the same time, and the packaging and everything was identical. One of the two tracks, however, was warped along its midline so that when I looked at it from either end, the center was higher than the sides, which again points to Makita's poor Q.C. This time the retailer acknowledged the problem and offered a full refund for the bad track, and said I could keep it.

Using my recently purchased Mitutoyo caliper I was able to measure the spine (the rail?) of each track. The difference was pretty big, no wonder the saw wouldn't clear the seam:


I contacted Makita in my country to report these issues and their response whas to take the tracks to get an aluminium carpenter to square off the ends for me (at my expense and losing a few mm worth of track length), and to return the tracks whose cross section was off (they didn't know which of the two was the odd one though), or to just return everything. In other words, ZERO interest in investigating the issue to prevent it from happening again, and ZERO accountability.

Assuming the tracks were fine, I'd like to point out that the connector kit is utter garbage. The connectors have a lot of play and don't pull the two tracks together. Once the connectors are in place they don't slide in snugly and the tracks are very tricky to align. In other words, it's not a self-aligning system. You basically need to use the the factory-cut side of a long sheet of MDF or plywood to ensure the tracks form a straight line, which sort of negates the whole point of this tool. You tighten the grub screws on one side, flip the whole thing over and in doing so you mess up the straight line again. It's a bad design.

A properly designed system would pull the two tracks together and would be self-aligning. Aluminium profile **** joints might be a good starting point:



Having given up on the idea of joining two tracks, I started contemplating getting the 118" track so I wouldn't need to worry about tolerances and alignment but, if I've learnt anything from all of this, that is that Makita has terrible quality control, and there is a high probability that the 118" track might be bent, warped or whatnot, so in the end I decided I'd had it with Makita.

Instead I'm going to make a two-piece self-aligning MDF guide to function as a straight edge. I can then clamp the MDF guide to my workpiece and slide a single Makita track along the MDF guide and perform arbitrarily long cuts in multiple stages. The two MDF pieces will be pulled together tightly using a detachable clamp.



In short, Makita's Q.C. is poor and so is their customer service.