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Track Saw - Guide Rail Storage

Trapps

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Looking for ideas that:

1. Protect the rubberize splinter guard edge (don't want to rest the edge on supports that may leave witness marks)
2. Modular (easy to add or adjust length)
3. Preferably wood for ease of mounting but open to other materials (I have wood walls and ceiling in my shop).
4. Currently I have 2x 63" but anticipate adding 1x short and 1x long in the future
5. Not sure it matters but I have Bosch rails.

Several are here: on FOG (I am not a Festool owner, but I do like the site.

I've Googled and these are a few options I've found:

Super simple:
20171209_184205.jpg


Covers modular, wood, and no edge concerns:
track-saw-track-storage07.jpg


I'll rule this out as I lack the floorspace:
43802e5d55e3fe2878e79abad1103c5b.jpg


This is a cool concept I could adapt:
c2ddfb2698b660f9383c889ac282147a.jpg


What are your solutions / ideas?

TIA!!! :beer:
 
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mooman

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Here’s an idea. Have her come over to my garage and I’ll watch her install it!


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manwithtools

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Someone on here made some brackets to attach them to the inside of the garage door panels. I thought that was crafty. I couldn't do that here as the heat would soften the adhesive holding the saw edging on. It already does that with them just leaning against the wall.

I need to make something to hold them securely and out of the way myself. I'll be watching this.
 
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Trapps

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I do appreciate the nail comments, absolutely the simplest, cheapest, fastest method. My issue is enough vertical wall space; I have very few options in my small shop to hang them vertically. The one spot that would work well (directly adjacent to the garage door) has other plans laid out for it.

Fastcap looks smart, but requires modification to fit a Bosch rail and doesn't address my concern of witness marks in the splinter guard unless mounted horizontally. This might work mounted to the ceiling.

This solution I like:
I have my smaller ones hanging from the ceiling on some brackets I made.

My big one (3000mm) is also on the ceiling, in another bracket I made.

View media item 94410
I lined all of these brackets with a thin piece of rubber to prevent damaging the rails.
 
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jonshonda

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Wisconsin
My thought was something similar to a french cleat system with dados mounted on the wall. So the top rail would have a deep and wide dado, and the bottom rail would be shallow. You would tilt the guide track at an angle away from you, insert the top of the track into the top rail, then swing the bottom of the guide track into the bottom rail.

Kinda like the bypass doors on closets/furniture.
 

jgromada

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Maryland (between DC & Balt)
I've seen cases for these that tradesman have used to carry theirs to job sites. Seen them on several Youtube videos. One case contained a couple of these tracks. That may be an idea worth exploring. I thought maybe Festool sold something like that.
 
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Hoorn

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Glendora, CA
This is what I did. This wall space is behind the door to my workshop.
I didn't overthink it, used scrap wood I had, and it has held up great. It's wide enough to easily accommodate the rubber edges and you can make it deeper for more tracks.
 

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Trapps

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This is what I did. This wall space is behind the door to my workshop.
I didn't overthink it, used scrap wood I had, and it has held up great. It's wide enough to easily accommodate the rubber edges and you can make it deeper for more tracks.

I like this concept. Low profile, adaptable for number/length and I can modify it to work on the ceiling which is the best space utilization for such a large item in my small shop.

Thanks for posting! :thumbup:
 
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Trapps

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Solution found and implemented:

large.jpg


Read more here.

Thanks all. Especially for the Nail comments. I am very much a fan of KISS, but if I have a chance to over-think and over-engineer something, I will typically will choose that path.

:beer:
 

Renegade1LI

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This one was simple, placed on top of wall cabinets above bench.
 

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macgee

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Hanging them vertically on a wall from the supplied hole is easily the best thing for the tracks.

There's a very good reason why companies supply a hole in them. Gravity is not your friend when leaving the track in a horizontal position, it can leave a memory (curve). Treat the track as you as would a good & expensive long level. Besides, its also probably the least amount of footprint being used up in your shop when hanging them and easy to access. Plus, no gimmicks needed.
 

Spacey_G

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This is what I did. This wall space is behind the door to my workshop.
I didn't overthink it, used scrap wood I had, and it has held up great. It's wide enough to easily accommodate the rubber edges and you can make it deeper for more tracks.
This is nicely executed, but I'm wondering what advantage it has over a simple peg or nail in the wall. It stores the track in the same position it would be hanging from the hole.
 

Milton Shaw

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When you place them on top of wall cabinets, leave one end sticking out so you can eventually see it when you have spent an hour looking for it. This is from experience on other things stored that far off the floor out of sight. No project is complete without at least an hour spent looking for something, and it gets worse the older I get.
 

rrich1

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I use the fast cap wall hangers. Great buy at $20 and ultra thin.6a0ad2a6ed015cefeabcd73a8110cd86.jpg

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Trapps

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Good looking solution.

But do you have to toggle the bottom to remove the top?

Yes, but presumably I'd already have the lower one down if I need both.

Hanging them vertically on a wall from the supplied hole is easily the best thing for the tracks.

There's a very good reason why companies supply a hole in them. Gravity is not your friend when leaving the track in a horizontal position, it can leave a memory (curve). Treat the track as you as would a good & expensive long level. Besides, its also probably the least amount of footprint being used up in your shop when hanging them and easy to access. Plus, no gimmicks needed.


I agree with everything you've said, including the gimmick. This solution is not elegant or simple. My problem is enough available vertical space.




The more I look at this the more it fails to meet my goal of efficient space utilization, so consider it a temporary solution keeping them safe and out of the way.

:beer:
 

tyyost

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Couldn’t you go one step beyond where you are? Create a simple rabbeted cleat for the bottom of the rail line shown in the fast cap example deep enough to stack both rails on and use a single clamp to keep them in place? You would maximize your space, free up a few toggle clamps, and it would work as well as where you are now. Need a single track, no problem as the clamp would only keep the tracks on the cleat, eliminating the need for them to be tight, just open to get track out and closed to keep track on cleat.
 

macgee

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I agree with everything you've said, including the gimmick. This solution is not elegant or simple. My problem is enough available vertical space.

The more I look at this the more it fails to meet my goal of efficient space utilization, so consider it a temporary solution keeping them safe and out of the way.

:beer:

Trapps,

I have mine stored/hanging inside of my closet doors in the shop. While hanging they barely take any depth. I have swivel L brackets down low to lock them in and prevent them from moving when opening and closing the door.

I had several options from hanging inside a door and totally out of the way. My tall metal storage cabinets have a gap inside the doors that was enough for the tracks from hitting the shelves, and I could have used the backside of my back door in my shop. I have my tracks hanging next to my straight edge and long levels and totally out of the way and out of sight.
 
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