To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Track shelving safety?

Ameisen

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2025
Messages
6
Location
Chicagoland
Hello,

A few nights ago, I awoke to a loud crash - the track shelving in our basement (not quite our garage, but that part of the basement is largely used as a workshop for me as well) collapsed. I'd been storing scrap lumber, long pieces of oak/fir that I hadn't had a chance to work with yet, and some EMT and copper pipe on it. So, a lot of weight, but not a lot of weight.

I'd assumed that the previous owners had installed these shelves well - a poor assumption given prior issues. In reality, they'd set up ClosetMaid 'ShelfTrack's, with three 75" tracks and a hanger. The hang rail was poorly installed (though didn't fail... they used even shorter screws on it), the tracks were each installed with 3 1¼" #10 zinc wood screws each - with the track, that gave them about ⅝" of actual engagement into the studs. The shelves failed due to pullout - the screws pulled out of the stud, and the two nearer tracks buckled (the third was intact, probably because the shelves fell to the side of the buckling ones). This surprisingly had lasted about 2 years with the load that it had had.

Since I needed to clear the mess, but am both recovering from shoulder surgery and also needed to clean it up quickly (our utility room was effectively inaccessible), we set up what we could on short notice. We got John Sterling 'HEAVYWEIGHT' tracks, and installed three of them (the shelves span 4 studs). We also added a new hanger. We used GRK #10 2½" cabinet screws, and added screws at all pre-drilled locations - I believe 9 per track. They engage the studs to a depth of 1¾". I'd have gone with longer R4 screws, but I wasn't sure what screws were compatible with the galvanized steel of the track, and at this point I cannot just remove the screws and replace them easily as the wood has already been screwed into.

The screws that the manufacturer recommends are their #10 2½" flat-head zinc wood screws.

My issue is that since we've already had a collapse, I'm very wary of it. I still want to move the longest lumber on the top shelf - out of the way of me running into it - but that's also going to put the most load onto the system. I'm awful at estimating weight, but I have to assume that there will be no more than 100-300lbs.

My main concern is that there's going to be another pull-out. I have little concern that the screws will shear, and it's all within the weight restrictions of the tracks/shelves themselves. I'm mostly concerned with the studs and the screws anchoring into them. Especially a potential collapse while we're near it.

In terms of conditions/locations, the utility room is mostly conditioned - it is where the furnace is. It's just usually cooler than the rest of the house, but doesn't usually have significantly higher moisture. It's basically the unfinished half of the concrete basement. The shelves are on studs that the previous owners had installed, with a single 2×4 top plate connected to the main floor joists above, for part of the walls of an outset part of the finished half. They should probably also be reinforced.

I'm pretty confident that this is set up significantly better than what they'd had, but I'm still neurotic and anxious about it, and just looking for some advice as to what I should do (or advice that everything's fine and I should just be OK with it).
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Stuart in MN

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 8, 2005
Messages
23,011
Location
Minneapolis
As long as you used the right kind of screws that were long enough I wouldn't worry about it. That's pretty much the only reason they fail, at least they didn't use drywall screws.
 
OP
A

Ameisen

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2025
Messages
6
Location
Chicagoland
As long as you used the right kind of screws that were long enough I wouldn't worry about it. That's pretty much the only reason they fail, at least they didn't use drywall screws.
Their screws were zinc #10 2½" flat-head wood screws.

I went with GRK #10 2½" cabinet screws as I find GRK screws really easy to use and incredibly strong. So, same size, at least.

I'm tempted, for my neuroticism's sake, to replace the top screws with 4" R4s, but I also know that that's a bad idea as they'd still be #10s and where the old screw was removed won't engage nearly as well.

My concern is just that they only engage 1¾" into the wood. Certainly better than the ⅝" the previous owner had, but still rather shallow.
 

nadogail

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
31,910
Location
Coronado, CA
I am a fan of Molly Bolts. The anchors stay fixed in place even after the screws have been removed.

I have not seen them advertised for some years, but the “ look alike “ generic copies have been OK.
 

Shiftless

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2014
Messages
14,479
Location
East Bay SFO
My concern is just that they only engage 1¾" into the wood.
That’s plenty of engagement as long as the wood is sound. Relax and move on to another problem.

Up until recently, one of the shelves in my garage was for years holding a transmission and a cylinder head. Screws holding that shelf support to the studs only penetrated 1 1/2 inches. The shelf itself was a wood 2x12.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
A

Ameisen

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2025
Messages
6
Location
Chicagoland

carlaisle

Well-known member
Joined
May 14, 2022
Messages
365
The shelving you bought is rated for 2,000 lbs per vertical, a max of 250 lbs per bracket (w/o attached diagonal brace), and 400 lbs per screw in the hang track (assuming appropriate screws are used). You said your install spans 4 studs, so you should be good for 3,200 lbs of evenly distributed load per hang track assuming you use all of the screw holes in the hang track and screw into structure. If you use the 75" verticals and 12" shelf spacing you could fit 6 shelves which would be rated for 533 lbs each. The limiting factor here is the hang track, not the shelf brackets, so if you used fewer shelves you can increase the load per shelf. i.e. a single shelf can support 1,000 lbs. At max capacity you could use 3 shelves per hang track, as any more would exceed the hang track limit.

If you need to carry more weight, the way to accomplish that with this system would be to use the shorter verticals and 2 hang tracks, one upper and one lower. You may need to cut the verticals to size depending on your ceiling height. Keep in mind the screws through the verticals do not carry any load - they're just to stabilize the track in place. All of the load carrying is going on at the top via the hang track. The manufacturer specifies 2.5" screws for it. They even sell them so there's no need to guess: https://www.knapeandvogt.com/heavyweight-hardware-pack?
 
OP
A

Ameisen

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2025
Messages
6
Location
Chicagoland
Interestingly, their sheet at Menards said to screw in the verticals or to use a hang track. Their guide online does not say that.

The only mild concern that I have is that when screwing in the top screw of the verticals, that was close enough to the hang track to likely scratch it, but given that it's galvanized against another zinc-plated screw in a conditioned basement, that shouldn't really be an issue.

We have two hang tracks - two verticals are on one, one vertical is on the other. I'd have done two verticals each but they only had three in stock.

Though... that's all way more weight than will be on it by an order of magnitude.

It is still interesting that the old system seemed to fail due to pullout on two of the verticals - the hang track was still intact and the last vertical was still securely on it.
 
Last edited:
OP
A

Ameisen

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2025
Messages
6
Location
Chicagoland
Sorry to bring this up again, but after shuffling lumber around (I haven't finished due to my shoulder), my guess is that the long pieces are a few hundred lbs combined. There are a number of oak boards as well as long 2x8/10 fir pieces.

My concern is just having them on the top shelf, near the top overall - that's the only way that they're "out of the way", otherwise they block a corner near legs.

I'm still remembering how the old shelving failed - the hang track was fine, but the screws holding the verticals to the studs pulled out.

I don't see that happening here (significantly deeper screws, everything is done better) but I'm still anxious about it.
 

johnnn

Active member
Joined
May 22, 2017
Messages
30
I hung a similar non galvanized version from a different store. Instructions said to put screws into top horizontal rail only. I offered to put screws into vertical tracks customer said it wasn't necessary. If it was going to hold anything remotely heavy I would have anchored the vertical tracks.

If you want extra insurance. You can add hollow wall anchors in top track between studs. I like toggler brand with 3/16 or 1/4 inch threads but others have similar products.
 
OP
A

Ameisen

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2025
Messages
6
Location
Chicagoland
The hang rails are on the top plate - every screw hole is engaged.

There's no drywall on the utility room side regardless.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom