Trailer deck replacement

[fairlaniac]

My trailer is an 18 ft. On the ends there is a 2 inch wide bar welded across the trailer to keep all of the board ends tucked in. I assume to put new boards in you will need to bend them enough so one end can get past the edge abd go under the metal bars. The inside distance front to back is exactly 18 ft. I was thinking of having the boards cut to 17'-11". I'd think having the extra one inch off would help to get the ends under the bars? Agree, disagree or have a better way?

Thanks,

 

[texasprd]

As I recall, when I had the wood replaced on my 16', they cut that strap off and rewelded it after they got the wood in.

You really should be okay - just make sure you equalize the gap at each end and re-fasten the wood to each cross-brace as the builder did. They did screw it down to each cross-brace, right?

Let us know how this works for you - I need to replace the wood on my trailer, once I get my old truck off it.

 

[Long haul]

My 26' deck over was built the same way. I ended up taking the plasma to those pieces and made new straps out of 1/4"x2" steel at the ends and a 6" wide piece in the center where ends butted up. I also use rough cut sawmill boards that are 2" thick since they are cheaper. I also cut the wood so there was about an inch gap at the ends to allow for expansion an contraction.

 

[onewaydave]

Eek, don't cut the straps unless they are in the middle. No offence to the above posters.

Cut the wood to length, Use a 4x4 (or other object to bow the plank in the middle) to bow the wood in the middle and the ends slip in like butter on a hot biscuit. Then tap the 4x4 out and the board will twhang in place. Secure with self tapping screws to the cross members that are under the deck. If you want to use the previous holes, crawl under and drill the holes from below, but then use bolts because you've drilled out the previous threads.

Dave, the way I did it.

 

[38Chevy454]

Not exactly what you asked, but on my car trailer with wood deck I replaced the wood with some 1.5 inch 0.187 wall square tubing under diamond plate 16 inch wide runners on each side. Three lengths of tubing approx 8 inches apart running lengthwise, on each side. No more wood replacement issues. The diamond plate can get slick when wet, but so can wood although not as slippery. The center part of my trailer between the tire runners is just plywood now, spanning between the trailer crossmembers. This allows me to put lighter stuff like tree trimmings on the trailer.

 

[Torque1st]

Don't use PT wood either. The preservative will rust out your frame. Use Oak or soak the wood in a 50/50 mix of used motor oil and kerosene.

I just cut the welds out of the rear metal strip and bolted it back in.

I did not screw the boards down to the frame either.