Trailer Light "L" Brackets

[bubinga]

I have a little Harbor Freight trailer. The factory brackets for the tail lights broke at the 90. Made a new bracket out of some probably about a hundred thousands of an inch corrugated metal inch and a half or 2 in wide. I guess my Bend ended up at one of the holes anyways no big deal I thought well that bracket cracked right there and broke, keep in mind every time it does this, it is dragging my trailer lights on the ground and messing them up. I also use this little L bracket that worked out perfectly that came with a fluorescent light fixture I got. Well guess what that cracked at the 90. What do I need to do? If I were to go get some heavier steel some place I'm thinking maybe one eighth 0r 3/16 " of an inch thick, by about 2 in wide, if I were to get it cherry red and heat bend it do you think that would help the metal from fatiguing and cracking? Getting tired of having to bungee chord up my trailer lights. I am going to have to buy some new lights and I don't want to be dragging them on the ground. The scrap yard around here that pays the best, you have to drive about a quarter mile down a pothole city road. That is where the last bracket broke. I have gotten good at recognizing the sound of my trailer lights dragging on the road. Thank you.

 

[aka Larry]

I've decided that any lights that protrude are going to get broken. On my HF trailer, I redid the rear cross member to have flush mount lighting.

 

[Kenstone1]

I buy/use electrical box covers for light brackets, mounted on the fenders out of harms way, they're galvanized and don't rust.
This is on another trailer:
The fender brackets will break from vibration too, but there's are holes on the inner edges of the fenders that nearly line up with holes in the frame where you can add bolts for a more rigid mount.
I've owned/modified many kit trailers from both HF and Northern tool,

 

[bubinga]

I've decided that any lights that protrude are going to get broken. On my HF trailer, I redid the rear cross member to have flush mount lighting.

beautiful!!

 

[bubinga]

I buy/use electrical box covers for light brackets, mounted on the fenders out of harms way, they're galvanized and don't rust.
This is on another trailer:
The fender brackets will break from vibration too, but there's are holes on the inner edges of the fenders that nearly line up with holes in the frame where you can add bolts for a more rigid mount.
I've owned/modified many kit trailers from both HF and Northern tool,

Nice job on that one too.

So you bent the elect.box cover's correct?

 

[Kenstone1]

Nice job on that one too.

So you bent the elect.box cover's correct?

Yup, bought at big box store for less than $2 each, bent in the vise, and mounted with 1/4-20 screws.
Pic of tail lights on a heavily mod'ed 48x40 HF trailer.

 

[Bretny]

I only use flush mount lights or put them in spot light housings like this. Trailer lights are usualy made like **** so i perfer the trucklite or other decent brand.

 

[bubinga]

That set up I came up with is working, but with awkward shape cargo, loading and unloading, They are sort of in the way.

 

[bubinga]

All very nice work guys.
Now, lets say, I don't want to buy recessed lights, etc,
And want to go back to my original Idea.
If I were to go get some heavier steel some place I'm thinking maybe one eighth 0r 3/16 " of an inch thick, by about 2 in wide, if I were to get it cherry red and heat bend it do you think that would help the metal from fatiguing and cracking?
Fellow on another group said to heat it, bend it, and Immediately quench in oil.
I would think that would make it somewhat brittle, and more likely to break......

 

[matt_i]

Just bend it with oxyacetylene heat, a hammer and a vise, and just air cool it. Go inside and have some iced tea or go check the mail...etc. As always be very careful of where you point the torch while bending.

The hot bending should remove all stresses and anneal the piece.

Make it from 3/16" thick and you won't work on that problem anymore. Something else will be the weak link.

 

[Bretny]

Or you could just use ange iron if its a 90*

 

[gungatim]

one trailer I did I used some scrap square tubing large enough to fit the light inside. cut it to square and welded it to the side of the trailer and no more broken lights!

that was a long time ago. now I prefer the flush LED's.

 

[bubinga]

Just bend it with oxyacetylene heat, a hammer and a vise, and just air cool it. Go inside and have some iced tea or go check the mail...etc. As always be very careful of where you point the torch while bending.

The hot bending should remove all stresses and anneal the piece.

Make it from 3/16" thick and you won't work on that problem anymore. Something else will be the weak link.

Thanks Matt.
yes, there always does seem to be something doesn't there.

 

[bubinga]

Or you could just use ange iron if its a 90*

It would have to be a Real Wide section of angle iron.

 

[bubinga]

one trailer I did I used some scrap square tubing large enough to fit the light inside. cut it to square and welded it to the side of the trailer and no more broken lights!

that was a long time ago. now I prefer the flush LED's.

That's A good idea too.
thanks To All.

 

[bubinga]

Or you could just use angle iron if its a 90*

It would have to be a Real Wide section of angle iron.

Like this.

4" X 4" By 1/4" thick, 10 to 12" long, You'd only need about 1 1/2" to 2" length for each side.
https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=9975&step=4&id=276&CAWELAID=120293320000038973

 

[BD1]

Check a local sheetmetal shop and see if they'll bend what you need. They can do anything like 6"X6" and maybe 10 or 12 gauge. Any dimensions you like.
You can cold bend, 1/8" or 10 gauge pretty easy. Check scrap yard too. They might have what you need.
Try E trailer for pre-made ones. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessorie...h6w9hLC1GalqDcxSnwAnzCk3Sods0MGRoCvJ4QAvD_BwE

 

[bubinga]

Check a local sheet-metal shop and see if they'll bend what you need. They can do anything like 6"X6" and maybe 10 or 12 gauge. Any dimensions you like.
You can cold bend, 1/8" or 10 gauge pretty easy. Check scrap yard too. They might have what you need.
Try E trailer for pre-made ones. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessorie...h6w9hLC1GalqDcxSnwAnzCk3Sods0MGRoCvJ4QAvD_BwE

Thanks BD1

 

[Kenstone1]

All very nice work guys.
Now, lets say, I don't want to buy recessed lights, etc,
And want to go back to my original Idea.
If I were to go get some heavier steel some place I'm thinking maybe one eighth 0r 3/16 " of an inch thick, by about 2 in wide, if I were to get it cherry red and heat bend it do you think that would help the metal from fatiguing and cracking?
Fellow on another group said to heat it, bend it, and Immediately quench in oil.
I would think that would make it somewhat brittle, and more likely to break......

You can buy heavy metal shelf brackets that are triangulated for strength.
Just cut them down and drill some mounting holes.
Something like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-11-25-in-x-1-05-in-Chrome-Shelf-Bracket-HD-0494-CH/205561151

Edit: nothing happens to low carbon steel when quenched in either water or oil.

 

[bubinga]

You can buy heavy metal shelf brackets that are triangulated for strength.
Just cut them down and drill some mounting holes.
Something like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-11-25-in-x-1-05-in-Chrome-Shelf-Bracket-HD-0494-CH/205561151

Good idea..............
I got some around here any how, somewhere.

Edit: nothing happens to low carbon steel when quenched in either water or oil.

Oh, good to Know.
So wouldn't make it more brittle?