Trailer lighting

[Sumboodie]

Have a 53ft van trailer I use for storage. Kind of temporary storage, and likely will move the trailer later this year or maybe next.

Would like to put up a couple lights so I don't need to use a flashlight to dig around.

Have some LED 4ft shop lights I bought a few years ago for my old garage (sold that place), thinking this is a perfect use.
Maybe 3? Not needing surface of the sun, just enough a fellow can walk around in there without tripping on stuff or trying to hold a flashlight with teeth while needing 3 hands to move something.

Trying to brainstorm the most practical way to wire it.

Was thinking of maybe just stapling up a cheap extension cord, and I think the lights can link together.

BUT would be handy to have a switch near the back by the door, and maybe an outlet for plugging in something like maybe a trickle charger, the Ring camera on the roof, corded tool, etc.

Could staple up romex, wire in outlets, a switch, etc though that's turning what I'd like to keep as a quick task into a day of work.
Plus not too sure how I'd wire an extension cord into the romex to plug in the trailer from the shop outlet.

Figured I'd ask in case someone has good thoughts on it. You know how it is, battle with using something or end up costing way more time and $$ and later... ah, ****... THATs what I needed!

 

[Steve from Socal]

Zip cord AKA speaker wire is perfect for these, I put up a couple of 4' led strips in my 48' drop frame one on the landing and one near the back.

 

[The Cobbler]

if you're using 12v LED lights, no need for anything high voltage rated . depends on length & voltage drop, you would want a decent gauge of wire, at least 16 maybe

 

[Sumboodie]

if you're using 12v LED lights, no need for anything high voltage rated . depends on length & voltage drop, you would want a decent gauge of wire, at least 16 maybe

120v. Plugging into shop outdoor outlet that is maybe 30ft away.

 

[The Cobbler]

I would run just some cheap extension cords , zip tied here & there

 

[dave*99]

A friend had a full canvas over his sailboat to work on it in the winter. Canvas over hoops like a covered wagon. I told him to put up a string of Christmas lights to see when walking around. It worked great. Back then it was C7 bulbs I believe. Today we have rope lights and LED tape etc.

Screw a switched plug strip to the wall near the door. Done.

 

[Wrench97]

The old shop had a 42' trailer as storage and office space dropped on the ground, the lights were screwed to the roof crossbows and linked with 1/2" conduit down to the switch box at the door.
You could probably get away using romex and attaching it with zip ties to the crossbows, are the sidewalls plywood or plate?

 

[walta]

You do understand your extension cord plan would be a code violation and is risky in that the trailer will not be grounded and the wires you have chosen are unprotected and easily damaged. If you chouse 120 volts spend the money required for a safe code compliant install.

If that price is too high or the trailer seems likely to go away soon consider the safe code compliant battery powered/ solar options.

Amazon.com

Walta

 

[zendriver]

I ran my entire detached 3 car garage for 5 years - garage door openers, lights, air compressor (not necessarily at the same time), with an wired extension cord one end to an outside outlet, set up by the PO. Other than an occasional popped GF outlet, worked fine.

Would not bat an eye to set a couple of lights in a trailer up the same way.

Does Alaska have building codes?

 

[Wrench97]

Last I looked codes include don't stuff you plug in.

 

[Sumboodie]

The old shop had a 42' trailer as storage and office space dropped on the ground, the lights were screwed to the roof crossbows and linked with 1/2" conduit down to the switch box at the door.
You could probably get away using romex and attaching it with zip ties to the crossbows, are the sidewalls plywood or plate?

Ceiling and walls are insulated and plywood over that. It's a mid 90s Great Dane

 

[Sumboodie]

I ran my entire detached 3 car garage for 5 years - garage door openers, lights, air compressor (not necessarily at the same time), with an wired extension cord one end to an outside outlet, set up by the PO. Other than an occasional popped GF outlet, worked fine.

Would not bat an eye to set a couple of lights in a trailer up the same way.

Does Alaska have building codes?

Building codes exist everyeverywhere but definitely isn't enforced here.

 

[Sumboodie]

You do understand your extension cord plan would be a code violation and is risky in that the trailer will not be grounded and the wires you have chosen are unprotected and easily damaged. If you chouse 120 volts spend the money required for a safe code compliant install.

If that price is too high or the trailer seems likely to go away soon consider the safe code compliant battery powered/ solar options.

Amazon.com

Walta

Solar isn't an option 4+ months a year... basically the months when theists would be most needed.

 

[Wrench97]

Plywood is good just screw to that(short screws).

 

[Sumboodie]

Plywood is good just screw to that(short screws).

Yes, it's in decent shape.
Some of it was falling down but I reattached it a few years ago.

 

[Wrench97]

It'll have metal bows the sheets attach to.

 

[Sumboodie]

It'll have metal bows the sheets attach to.

Yes, Has c channel.
No sure why that matter? Question is about wiring.

 

[rmanrman]

Use 12volt led lights wired to a deep cycle battery by the exit door with a wall switch
Use 16 gauge electric cord 2-wire. Regular home toggle switch in a handy electrical box
To recharge the battery use a small solar cell and charge controller to not over charge the battery or use clips on the battery and lug the battery to the house and a overnight charger in your home should last more than 6 months between charges. That’s what I had in my shed without 120volt electricity.

 

[Wrench97]

Yes, Has c channel.
No sure why that matter? Question is about wiring.

It doesn't matter, it's just a attachment point is all.

 

[Sumboodie]

Use 12volt led lights wired to a deep cycle battery by the exit door with a wall switch
Use 16 gauge electric cord 2-wire. Regular home toggle switch in a handy electrical box
To recharge the battery use a small solar cell and charge controller to not over charge the battery or use clips on the battery and lug the battery to the house and a overnight charger in your home should last more than 6 months between charges. That’s what I had in my shed without 120volt electricity.

Makes no sense for me to go buy a battery if I have power nearby.

 

[rmanrman]

Ok then use a gfci outlet at the house or garage to run a proper length extension cord to the container and use the 4 foot led lights you have on the ceiling. When your done just coil up the extension cord in the container.

 

[Metal-Marc]

 

[75gmck25]

Maybe I don’t fully understand your needs, but it sounds like you just want light so that you can find things when you enter the container.

I bought a solar powered, motion activated light (from Lowe’s) for my garden shed, and drilled a small hole so I could route a wire out to its small solar panel, which is mounted on the outside. Whenever you walk into the shed and it’s dark outside, the motion sensor trips and I have what appears to be about a 100 watt equivalent LED light so can find my garden tools. The light automatically shuts off when there is no motion in the shed. It took about 15 minutes to install, and it’s really convenient. YMMV

 

[dcg9381]

Solar isn't an option 4+ months a year... basically the months when theists would be most needed.

Depends on how many panels you have, this wouldn't require a lot of power, even an hour of sunlight would get it done with 400 watts or so of panels. I'd be more concerned about snow covering the panels.

If you want to plug it in, why not treat it like an RV on 120V power? Add an RV inlet and small breaker box. That's what I'd do. Once I have power in there, rig up whatever lighting you want.

 

[Sumboodie]

Maybe I don’t fully understand your needs, but it sounds like you just want light so that you can find things when you enter the container.

I bought a solar powered, motion activated light (from Lowe’s) for my garden shed, and drilled a small hole so I could route a wire out to its small solar panel, which is mounted on the outside. Whenever you walk into the shed and it’s dark outside, the motion sensor trips and I have what appears to be about a 100 watt equivalent LED light so can find my garden tools. The light automatically shuts off when there is no motion in the shed. It took about 15 minutes to install, and it’s really convenient. YMMV

I had 2 of those. They don't work in winter... and the cold killed them.

Have minimal light in winter, plus batteries don't do -20* very well.

 

[The Cobbler]

I think the original poster has mentioned a few times he has power readily available & he doesn't need solar .

 

[sparky 1971]

I think I'd put a 120 volt inlet in the side of the trailer and run Romex inside. It would make things much easier to get the cord out of the way for snow removal, etc.

www.homedepot.com/pep/Leviton-15-Amp-125-Volt-Straight-Blade-Grounding-Power-Inlet-Outlet-Gray-001-05278-CWP/301304898?g_store=&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&utm_source=google&utm_medium=vantage&utm_campaign=24701&utm_content=26383&mtc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-D27E-Multi-NA-LEVITON-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-MK864029001-24701-NBR-1975-NA-VNT-FY24_Leviton_D27_Q1_Q4_RM_&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-RM-RMP-GGL-D27E-Multi-NA-LEVITON-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-MK864029001-24701-NBR-1975-NA-VNT-FY24_Leviton_D27_Q1_Q4_RM_-71700000117989223--&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwj9-zBhDyARIsAERjds2F9SZkDprMWwvAqJNkAxOAxoRcquM63Z2HY5OOtkXH-IZaj2_MGl8aAnY_EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Snapped-off]

Plus not too sure how I'd wire an extension cord into the romex to plug in the trailer from the shop outlet.

I'm not suggesting this is what you should do, but I've seen male plug ends on nm-b.

Liability is up to you.

I really don't think it would take long at all to do it properly though.

 

[Wrench97]

Put a metal box in for a switch romex in the top extension cord in the bottom.

 

[RPH]

Get a couple of these. Outlets every 6 or so feet.

 

[tyyost]

I see above someone mentioned the temp work lights, I added these to a square tube “garage“ several years ago. I see new ones are LED but I rigged up a short male whip into a 4x4 box, added a switch and a 120 v receptacle and wired the switch to control the outlet. Like you I run an extension cord and have for years to this setup, I have the cord routed through the door frame so I can unplug it and use the power to work outside the garage as well.

 

[Bert_]

This has been made way too complicated.

Wire you lights and switch box then just come out of the switch box with a short cord. Drill a small hole in the floor of the trailer and hang the plug out a foot below. Use an extension cord to get to the building with power.

 

[Sumboodie]

I used 18 gauge lamp cord.

Project cost me $28. 30ft of lamp cord and a stock of conduit and clamps.

Would have been $23 but Home Depot didn't have the 25ft roll they advertised online for $9 only 250ft or by the foot at .55 a ft.

 

[Sumboodie]

Get a couple of these. Outlets every 6 or so feet.

Looked into those but they were expensive.
No Me Nards here.

 

[RPH]

Looked into those but they were expensive.
No Me Nards here.

Order online. Two should cover the length of the trailer. Leaves you options to use other items that might needed.

 

[Sumboodie]

Order online. Two should cover the length of the trailer. Leaves you options to use other items that might needed.

Already done and onto the next project