Trailer Ramp Pivot Pin Replacement Material Selection

[1320]

I have a 10 ton equipment trailer that needs new ramp pivot pins. The current ones are bent and greatly impede use of the trailer. Other than that they're steel, I don't know what they're made of.

They are 2" diameter solid round bar that's about 37" long, with a washer welded to one end and a hole across the diameter in the other end for a retention bolt.

I'm out of my depth on selecting a material that makes sense to use in this application. I see hot and cold rolled, A36, 1018, 1045, etc.

Those of you with more experience in figuring this stuff out, what should I be using to make these pins?

 

[iagsxr]

I'd just get 2" cold-rolled.

How did you bend them though?

 

[mike93lx]

Aren't those center supports supposed to be welded to the frame?

 

[1320]

I'd just get 2" cold-rolled.

How did you bend them though?

They were bent when I got the trailer. I'd imagine someone put something too heavy over the ramps.

Aren't those center supports supposed to be welded to the frame?

There's some kind of spring retainer or something in there. I'm not certain how the springs and that are supposed to be arranged.



Here's a photo of another one of the same trailer with the same bracket and it floats like on mine.

 

[djbmw]

For the hinge pin to bend and nothing else.... I would ENSURE that those springs and the hinge support is mounted correctly/in the right orientation before putting a load onto it.
Regarding the pin... If I were you, I would simply heat the pin and use a 20 ton press to get it mostly straight. Failing that, a new rod would work too. The most important part, however, is that you get the center support/spring thing figured out

 

[larry_g]

I'd check with a local hydraulics shop and see if they have any scrapped 2" cylinder rods. They should be 1045. Also check with the local tractor dismantlers yard.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[mike93lx]

I'd check with a local hydraulics shop and see if they have any scrapped 2" cylinder rods. They should be 1045. Also check with the local tractor dismantlers yard.

lg
no neat sig line

I was thinking a cylinder rod as well but didn't think it would be likely they would have a scrap piece that long, but maybe a chromed road that's been scored/chipped?

 

[larry_g]

For the hinge pin to bend and nothing else.... I would ENSURE that those springs and the hinge support is mounted correctly/in the right orientation before putting a load onto it.
Regarding the pin... If I were you, I would simply heat the pin and use a 20 ton press to get it mostly straight. Failing that, a new rod would work too. The most important part, however, is that you get the center support/spring thing figured out

I believe that the springs are there to help lift the ramps to transport position.

 

[whateg01]

Aren't those center supports supposed to be welded to the frame?

Do you mean these? They have to pee against the trailer frame but they have to be able to float side to side with the ramp.

ETA: F'n smart phone! I'm not fixing it. It's funny. But that was supposed to say they have to press against the trailer frame.

 

[APEowner]

Rolled steel only applies to sheets. For those pins 1018 is fine.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

As said by a couple people, the spring and stop bracket need to slide side to side on the rod to be able to adjust the ramp width.

 

[dscheidt]

Rolled steel only applies to sheets. For those pins 1018 is fine.

Everyone calls cold drawn bar stock cold rolled, including the mills who make the stuff.

I agree that just about anything would work for this. I think I’d probably try straightening it, though.

 

[bugnut]

It appears the outboard bracket is bent, as is the rod. The spring, which must move relatively freely when the ramp is upright, across the width of the rod, allows the ramp to move to fit the wheel width of the load. Those springs have a lot of tension in it and should. The spring is a countering mechanism for the ramp weight, making the ramp easy to lift by hand. YT shows how to install spring for counterbalance.
If mine I'd remove the rod, insure all the bracketry was parallel to the trailer sides. Then a new 2" 1018 rod, would be installed, if I could not fabricate the welded washer and hole in the rod I would have a local machine shop procure and fabricate.

 

[no704]

And add aome grease/oil points.

 

[whateg01]

And add aome grease/oil points.

Zerks, unless protected, will just get broken off in this application

 

[Sweetcorn]

It appears the outboard bracket is bent, as is the rod. The spring, which must move relatively freely when the ramp is upright, across the width of the rod, allows the ramp to move to fit the wheel width of the load. Those springs have a lot of tension in it and should. The spring is a countering mechanism for the ramp weight, making the ramp easy to lift by hand. YT shows how to install spring for counterbalance.
If mine I'd remove the rod, insure all the bracketry was parallel to the trailer sides. Then a new 2" 1018 rod, would be installed, if I could not fabricate the welded washer and hole in the rod I would have a local machine shop procure and fabricate.

All this, plus I'd consider adding overload or support legs of the appropriate height to the ramps.

 

[1320]

I may try to straighten them, I suppose taking them off the trailer has to be done no matter what.

All this, plus I'd consider adding overload or support legs of the appropriate height to the ramps.

The trailer itself does have support legs. They're not on the ramps, but under the dovetail.

 

[JeepYJ]

The legs being on the trailer don’t help support the ramps. The hinge pin is the weak link with all of the load bug held by that pin. I’d put the legs on the ramps.