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Trailer ramp too steep!

Tuscani2718

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Feb 13, 2012
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Upper Hudson Valley
Got a great deal on a trailer....well until I tried running the mower up it. The deck bottomed right out. Long story short it is a 14' single 5k axle with 4' fold down ramps/gate. I hate the idea of making them longer as they sit high as it is but not sure if I should try to fab another hinge possible or what. Any creative ideas would be much appreciated.
 
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Milton Shaw

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Re: Trailer ramp to steep!

I had the same problem and put short 6" legs on the end of the original ramp and then put another 30" section of ramp on hinges. This keeps the same height and gives quite a bit of additional ramp without obstructing vision.
 

Ole Slewfoot

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Freedom, CA
Re: Trailer ramp to steep!

sometimes a few cranks on the tongue jack, or a different hitch in the receiver will make it work.
 
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Tuscani2718

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Re: Trailer ramp to steep!

I tried lifting the hitch to lower the angle on the ramp side of the trailer. It helped slightly, but not enough. I may have to bite the bullet and weld on some extensions.
 

larry_g

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oregon
Back it up to a hill...

or into a ditch...

For a lawn mower build a couple of wedge shaped ramps and place them so the trailer ramp lands on the high part of the wedge. Use them when needed. Nothing added or modified on the trailer.

lg
no neat sig line
 

MDSPHOTO

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Oz
or into a ditch...

For a lawn mower build a couple of wedge shaped ramps and place them so the trailer ramp lands on the high part of the wedge. Use them when needed. Nothing added or modified on the trailer.

lg
no neat sig line

Or on a curb.
 
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Tuscani2718

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I may have to do the wedge shaped ramps as my property doesn't have a hill or ditch. Thanks for all the good ideas everyone.

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NUTTSGT

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Lol as much as I am very much capable of such an act, I did in fact make sure the deck was fully raised.

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Just making sure.

I think before I extended the ramps, I would try to lay a couple of 2x6 or 2x8s on the ramps for extentions.

If you extend the ramps and they store underneath the trailer, make sure you have room to store them. Wouldn't be much more of a pisser to find out after you make them longer that they won't fit.
 
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Tuscani2718

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Upper Hudson Valley
Just making sure.

I think before I extended the ramps, I would try to lay a couple of 2x6 or 2x8s on the ramps for extentions.

If you extend the ramps and they store underneath the trailer, make sure you have room to store them. Wouldn't be much more of a pisser to find out after you make them longer that they won't fit.
That shouldn't be a problem they are the ones. That go vertical like a gate.

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f150skidoo

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If you can fabricate you could make a Bi fold ramps. By doing this you could make each section 32" so it would lesson wind drag going down the road but would be 64" open.
 

risc

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What you want is an arched ramp but that's probably not the cheap solution.
 
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1jjpop

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Central Iowa
Back up to a curb,so ramps set on curb , this will make a big difference . I do that to load A golf cart. Try it
 

Nor'Easter

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Maine
You can build a split folding ramp, just like what is used on paver tag trailers. That way the stowed height is very similar, but folded out is close to double.

db_file_img_387_653xauto.jpg
 

cspcrx

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Phoenix, AZ
have this trouble with my twin axle open deck. Ramps to short to load car on with ripping nose off. I had custom aluminum 7ft ramps made and I still have to drive the rear axle of the truck up on race ramps to get the angle shallow enough.
 

whateg01

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Well, the drop deck trailer was maybe a little overkill, I guess. ;)

Something you can do while you consider how to remake the ramps longer and folding is to disconnect the trailer from the vehicle, chock the wheels, put a block under the jack and lift the front of the trailer much higher. You'll want to put something under the back of the trailer or else the front may go flying into the air when you drive the mower onto the trailer, depending on how heavy the trailer and mower are and how the trailer was built. That'll make the whole trailer a really long ramp. Maybe not the safest way to do things, but I've pulled cars (not driven) onto trailers that way in a pinch.

Dave
 

vmusch

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Warrenton MO
I use the plastic car ramps to extend the steel ramps on my car trailer. In fact have to use them every time I load a car. Trucks do not high center. The plastic ramps are light and strong. I usually set the last rung of the steel ramp on top of the car ramp, stays in place for loading.
 

ClappedOutBport

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I've had this issue many a time before. Luckily my father managed to get some military aluminum helicopter matting. They are about 12 feet long and 3 feet wide. They make some excellent ramps for things that high center. He's rolled cars and much heavier things up on them, but it's good to brace the middle so they dont' flex so much. They look similar to these.

_1-psp-mats-005.jpg


Highly recommended if you can get your hands on some.
 

vmusch

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Warrenton MO
My ramps are also too short and cars high center while loading. Easy fix was I just use a set of plastic car ramps. I set the end of the trailer ramps on top of the car ramps and it solves the problem. I store the car ramps on the trailer when not in use, after a vehicle or mower is loaded throw the ramps in the back of the truck and off you go. They are light and easy to use.
 

DeadPedal

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Detroit North Suburbs
You can also run the rear wheels of the truck up onto ramps to raise the hitch and front of trailer up to lower the back of it. Easy to make some out of 2x6's and don't take up too much space. Why is every trailer a pain in the neck?


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Tuscani2718

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Upper Hudson Valley
You can also run the rear wheels of the truck up onto ramps to raise the hitch and front of trailer up to lower the back of it. Easy to make some out of 2x6's and don't take up too much space. Why is every trailer a pain in the neck?


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Not a bad idea either. I am planning to hopefully weld some extensions on Monday or Tuesday so if all goes well I'll be in business. Thanks so much everyone for your input.

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Wanna Ride

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I like to have tools that are a comfortable blend of both specific and diverse, simultaneously. And trailer applications are one of those tools.

I'd suggest one of two simple solutions, the first being what could easily be the simplest of those: if the trailer deck is flat, then cut it to create a beaver-tail. As I was building my utility trailer, I thought all that I'd ever haul on it would be dirt-bikes, ATVs, and mowers. But it occurred to me that I may need to haul my Harley (or at least someone's) on it occasionally. So, I went about 16" forward of the tail, and v-notched the frame and dropped the rear down about 4". Cut some fillers, and welded them in. Made a huge difference in what I could load on the deck. It made the ramp hinges about 4" closer to the ground, and made the transition from the ground, to the horizontal surface of the trailer, much more gradual and user-friendly.

The second suggestion is: the same as Nor'Easter suggested - a split-folding ramp. Almost as easy as my first suggestion, but you'll have to buy some material and weld it up. I think a good starting point/formula would be the 50% rule. I would think that if your current ramp is 5' long, then the added segment would suffice if it was 2.5' long. Or if your ramp is 4', then the added segment should be 2'... you get the idea. But you'd have to do some math to determine what angle and length would work best. Remember though, any added material will add stress to the mounting points, the ability for one person to safely raise/lower the ramp, etc.

This would make a fun, little Saturday project. Post up some pics once you get it done.
 
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