Trailer Tires
- Thread starter babzog
- Start date
Go fast in a straight line and then turn the steering hard one direction in a RWD car, you'll get the same marks, and the tires won't come off of the rims.
I am well aware of the scrubbing you're talking about, and I don't think that any modern tire and wheel should lose a tire on account of it unless the tire is WAY overloaded, weight-wise...
Lotek
Well-known member
It isn't the same thing, a trailer tire can be dragged sideways with no forward movement, and ST tires are designed for that, granted it shouldn't come off the rim, but it isn't good for the softer sidewalls in non trailer tires.
This is one of those topics that pits the "I've been doing it that way for years and never had a problem, by cracky" crowd, and those who use the proper tool for the job. Sure you can pound in nails with an axe...
Alchymist
Well-known member
After hearing the many horror stories about Carlisle ST tires, (couple in the family), and a recent experience where I lost 3 of 4 within 300 miles on a 5th wheel, I moved up a load range from D to E on the replacements. The replacements were also LT tires, not ST. Two different dealers a hundred miles apart told me th same story - many RV owners going to LTs as the STs are getting hard to find in the bigger sizes. Also found out Firestone brought their manufacturing back to the US from China. Ought to tell you something.
The Carlisles were made in China, 3 years old, with less than 3000 miles on them. Major blowout each time.
The Carlisles were made in China, 3 years old, with less than 3000 miles on them. Major blowout each time.
It isn't the same thing, a trailer tire can be dragged sideways with no forward movement, and ST tires are designed for that, granted it shouldn't come off the rim, but it isn't good for the softer sidewalls in non trailer tires.
This is one of those topics that pits the "I've been doing it that way for years and never had a problem, by cracky" crowd, and those who use the proper tool for the job. Sure you can pound in nails with an axe...
I wouldn't use passenger car tires on a trailer anyway, I'd go with minimally LT, and i'd even consider commercial truck tires. My truck, when done, will be running 16.5" wheels, nd it looks like commercial truck tires are esier to find in 16.5" than regular tires are now nyway- my goal is to run the same tires and same dimension wheels on both truck and trailer so spares for each fit both. That'll probably mean more wheel and axle than I need for an auto flatbed carrier, but I'll probably not have problems that way.
Lotek
Well-known member
I've heard that about the Carlisles for years, no personal experience, since I've always run Marathons. I don't know about availability issues in larger sizes, I got a 225/75r15 load range D in two days from Tire Rack, the local warehouse that we deal with at the dealership has them in stock, my rig is about as heavy as you can go without a CDL.
I'm sticking with tires that were designed for the job, properly inflated and regularly inspected.
I don't see the point in matching trailer tire size to truck tire size, how often do you blow more than one tire at a time? Why use 16.5 rims? talk about limited selection.
I'm sticking with tires that were designed for the job, properly inflated and regularly inspected.
I don't see the point in matching trailer tire size to truck tire size, how often do you blow more than one tire at a time? Why use 16.5 rims? talk about limited selection.
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Alchymist
Well-known member
Original tires were ST245 75R16 load range D. (Except one was ST245 85R16- the idiots had mixed sizes, unnoticed at first). As I said, replaced with LT24575R16 in load range E. Since the trailer GVWR is 14,500, not much margin for safety with Ds. Now it's kind of hard to have Tire Rack ship to you when you're on the road, you are at the mercy of the local dealers. Fortunately, I found Firestone dealers at two stops.
I tow various trailers I own quite a bit.
I had an 18ft trailer that I only ran trailer tires on, brand new fresh from manufacture trailer tires.
I had way more flats that you can imagine and I am very religious about pressures etc.
I bought a used GN trailer that had 16" Goodyear Wrangler Truck tires on it, from the factory.
They were an upgrade I have the receipt. They lasted very well.
I have hauled alot of loads at max GVW never any issues.
After my experiences with "trailer tires".
I will never use them ever again.
BTI
I had an 18ft trailer that I only ran trailer tires on, brand new fresh from manufacture trailer tires.
I had way more flats that you can imagine and I am very religious about pressures etc.
I bought a used GN trailer that had 16" Goodyear Wrangler Truck tires on it, from the factory.
They were an upgrade I have the receipt. They lasted very well.
I have hauled alot of loads at max GVW never any issues.
After my experiences with "trailer tires".
I will never use them ever again.
BTI
I'll run 16.5" because slotted mags in eight lug that aren't that size are incredibly rare, incredibly expensive, and only 16". I've seen one set, and they wanted $3000 after shipping for the bare wheels.
Even if 16.5" tires cost DOUBLE what 17" tires cost, it'll still be cheaper for me to run 16.5" with the kind of wheel I want.
As for why the same, truck and trailer, I was on I-40 one night and apparently a tractor trailer lost its front bumper. There were three of us pulled over with perforated tires, including one poor SOB who lost both tires and one of the wheels on one side.
A buddy of mine was fourwheeling and drove through a furrow too narrow, and punctured both tires on that side.
These are the reasons why I at least want the bolt patterns the same, and at that point it just makes sense to run the entire thing the same.
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iagsxr
Well-known member
It's not the same forces involved, not even close.
It's not about debeading the tire.
It's about over time breaking down the sidewalls internally and the tire failing because of that.