Trailer wheel bearing question

[fred d]

Ok as posted in a previous thread I lost a tire/wheel/Brake Drum
on my car hauler last month
The rear bearing was fine the outer bearing was toast.
The inner part of the outer bearing was Seized to the spindle I was able to cut through the “seized” mostly with a cut off wheel, and finish up by hitting it a few times with a chisel.
My question is how do I tell if the minor imperfections on the spindle is too much and needs to be replaced? Can it just be cleaned up and what would be the best way to polish it up?

 

[matt_i]

If I'm thinking about this the right way, the major requirement is for the inner race (tapered bearing "cone") to be a light press fit on the spindle. IOW the path of least resistance should be for the rolling elements to roll, not the inner race to spin on the metal spindle...if it hasn't been "spun" I would just dress down the high burrs that catch a fingernail with a file, working gently. You have to sort out whether a divot or a peak is catching your fingernail though.

 

[Tim C]

File it then sand with emory cloth until the new bearing is a light (finger only) press fit. Once you can slide the bearing on and off with just your fingers its good to go.

It doesn't necessarily have to have every imperfection removed.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk

 

[maxpat82]

install the bearing race with locktite bearing compound on the spindle after the light cleanup as the others mentionned and you'll be good.

 

[sberry]

The locktite is an idea.

 

[koditten]

Will lock tite stand up to the grease in the assembly? I'm thinking this is not worth the effort. I would like to know more about this.

 

[larry_g]

I'd highly recommend that you check out the cost of a new spindle. Spinning and welding the bearing race to the spindle has altered the properties of the spindle. How much is just a guess, but after having a spindle break on my rig I a bit more cautious than most. The spindle I broke was nicked with a torch cutting off an old bearing. This caused a stress riser that failed when the rig was loaded with firewood. So you pay your money and take your chances.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Will lock tite stand up to the grease in the assembly? I'm thinking this is not worth the effort. I would like to know more about this.

They make a type of loctite for bearings.

 

[48RON54]

I'd highly recommend that you check out the cost of a new spindle. Spinning and welding the bearing race to the spindle has altered the properties of the spindle. How much is just a guess, but after having a spindle break on my rig I a bit more cautious than most. The spindle I broke was nicked with a torch cutting off an old bearing. This caused a stress riser that failed when the rig was loaded with firewood. So you pay your money and take your chances.

lg
no neat sig line

I would also. I recently replaced a spindle on my car, and it was actually cheaper than the bearings. I think it was like $50. For $50, I didn't have to cut the inner race off, I didn't have to get a file and other things out to clean up the spindle, and I wasn't second guessing what I did, since it was my first time dealing with bearings/spindle. My free time is at a premium though and I needed the car back on the road asap so both of those were drivers in this decision. I suppose if it was a trailer I rarely used I might have gone a different route with it.

 

[Schurkey]

Is a brand-new Chinese spindle and bearing assembly better than a reworked original spindle, with careful selection of "premium" non-Communist bearings?

I would emery-cloth and lightly file the rough spots, test-fit the new bearing. When it slides on easy--but not sloppy--I'd put it together with a fresh grease seal, a functional "bearing buddy" or equivalent if it goes under water, and never think about it again for two years when it was time to repack the bearings.

No "Loctite".

MARINE GREASE if it's going to be submerged in water.

 

[maxpat82]

Will lock tite stand up to the grease in the assembly? I'm thinking this is not worth the effort. I would like to know more about this.

Locktite 620(and other of the like:609-641-648-660,etc) is made for that exact purpose..or any other bearing.
I used some in my 2 stroke motorcycle engine (crank bearing) and no issue, and plenty of other place...(even threads when you don't want to have to unscrew them ever..lol)

 

[isb cornbinder]

My friend bought a new trailer to haul his motorcycle and other stuff. The trailer fabricator had clamped his short ground clamp to one of the spoked wheels. The high amperage from welding aced across the bearings. A few hundred kilometers later one of the wheel bearings caused a jam and stalled a wheel which came off in hundred meters.
My vote, that is if votes are being accepted, is buy a new spindle assembly. If your fix causes another failure and your insurance company can determine the failure is your fault, your insurance will be cancelled because you failed to maintain the trailer properly and you will be totally liable on your own. Add an injury or fatality into this mix and you could lose everything for the rest of your life.
I used to be called for accident investigation and what I said is real.

 

[APEowner]

The repair vs replace is really a judgement call based on experience but as a general rule if it's not discolored it's probably fine.

As far as repair is concerned just make sure it's smooth enough to slide the bearing on with a light to tight sliding fit. You should need a tool to slide it. Don't use bearing retainer compound. It's not needed and will make it more difficult to service the bearings which, incidentally needs to be done more often then you've been doing it or you wouldn't be in this predicament.

 

[joe_padavano]

I'd highly recommend that you check out the cost of a new spindle. Spinning and welding the bearing race to the spindle has altered the properties of the spindle.

Probably not. It is highly unlikely that these spindles are heat treated. Mild steel can be heated and cooled with no changes to mechanical properties. That's called annealing. The bigger concern is any gouges or scratches in the spindle that can serve as crack initiation sites. Be sure to smooth any rough edges that you find. Of course, as noted, if you value your time, it may be cheaper in the long run to replace it.

 

[fred d]

To replace the spindle would mean to cut it off of the axle and reweld the new one on.
This is definitely above my skill level
The only other option would be to replace the whole axle. I have already priced this out at $140 for just the 6000# axle alone.
Total with the axle, drum, bearings , seal, and replacing the electric brake assembly is $340 for the parts.
I would agree I need to move up the time line on my inspection/Maintence
It is not a boat so being submerged is not something I’m expecting to happen.....but I do live in Houston, so you never know.

 

[fred d]

Doesn’t look to be discolored

 

[fred d]

Additional pic

 

[fred d]

Little surface rust from sitting without a drum

 

[redmondjp]

You guys recommending Locktite are fracking hilarious! Have any of you worked on a bearing hub before?

The inboard (larger) bearing is captured inside the hub by the grease seal, and it is critical that the inner race be able to slip on and off of the spindle. There is no way you would want to locktite the inner race to the spindle. You wouldn't be able to get the hub off w/o destroying the grease seal and you'd used lots of cuss words trying to do so.

The same is true for the outboard (smaller) bearing - if the inner race was bonded to the spindle, you'd never be able to remove that bearing again w/o applying a lot of force to it which would not be easy.

I just went through this same scenario with my utility trailer hubs last summer (previous owner lost the outer bearing on one side and the hub ground down part of the spindle). I filed the spindle bearing race surfaces until the inner bearing race for both the inboard and outboard hub bearings slipped smoothly on and off of it, and then had to sleeve both grease seal surfaces on the spindles with those stainless-steel repair sleeves. Also bought USA-made Timken bearings on Amazon to put everything back together again.

I use the trailer for very light duty (hauling a 500lb riding mower around) so am not worried about spindle failure due to a bit of metal missing on the bottom of it. I would probably replace the axle or spindle if I was hauling more weight. YMMV

 

[kbs2244]

For their cost. I would go with a new spindle.
My concern is the heat involved in "welding" the bearing to the spindle.

 

[APEowner]

Doesn’t look to be discolored

That doesn't look bad at all as far as discoloration goes. How does the bearing fit?

 

[ob355]

as stated above, spindles are very repairable and can take some damage. they are heat treated to increase the strength so you dont want to heat them up with out retreating them. the pictures you posted are closer to the replace end of a repair. you have lots of gouges in the outer bearing seat. if you decide to repair you need to polish the spindle and install both bearings, preload them and check the run out.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Clean it up and check it more often, if it doesn't seem to hold adjustment, you have more work to do.

 

[fred d]

Thanks for all the replies
I haven’t bought the replacement parts as of yet.
Fairly sure the new drum and bearings will probably have the import bearings, not a USA quality bearing kits
Need to be sure

 

[joe_padavano]

Thanks for all the replies
I haven’t bought the replacement parts as of yet.
Fairly sure the new drum and bearings will probably have the import bearings, not a USA quality bearing kits
Need to be sure

I was under the impression that these were bolt-on spindles. If they are welded, I would definitely just clean up the scored surface, install new hub and bearings, and just run it.

 

[sberry]

I agree, just fix it. Doesn't matter if the bearings are from China, 90% of the worlds equipment is running on them.

 

[LandofRath]

Welded on spindle? I had one burn up few years back on a trip to Cali.. can we get a photo of behind the hub? Most do have replaceable parts and its not even that hard to do. What kind of trailer is it? I agree with Joe if its a replaceable part just fix it right, if it is welded I see your issue. And you said you found an axle for $140.. For me its just better peace of mind in the long run. why risk it