I want a 16' or 18' tow behind deck over trailer. I am having trouble finding what I want for a price I think is reasonable and am now considering building it myself. Does anyone know the equations to figure out axle placement or plans for such a trailer. I am thinking about drawing it myself but a set of plans that really works would save me some time. Capacity wise I am thinking no more then 10k lbs. I have a toyota tundra and its maximum capacity is like 7k so I want to make the trailer under 2k so I can still put 5k of weight on it. Also has anyone ever built a trailer and has any tips/tricks for doing so. Maybe a time estimate? I am thinking 4" or 6" x .125 channel for the frame and a wood deck. Thanks for the help
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Trailer
- Thread starter msnow
- Start date
koditten
Well-known member
Yo:
Building this type of trailer is my specialty. You are definately on the right track. The 4" channell will work great for the frame, I would suggest 2" square tube as your cross members. This will give your trailer rigidity because you can weld all four sides of the tube. I like to use the channell for the tongue as well. This makes for a very strong tongue as well as giving you extra tongue weight.
I always encourage people to opt for the 18 footer if they are on the fence. The extra 2' makes it much easier to position a car to get optimum weight distribution. You will not notice the difference and it only ads about 50 bucks to the cost of steel. The main disadvantage is you will have to special order lumber for the deck or go to a private saw mill for the deck.
As for the location of the axles, there is no real formula, execpt that you do not want the axles closer to the front than back. The only thing we are worried about is how much tongue weight you are willing put on the bumper. One of my trucks is also a Tundra (02). I have roughly 220lbs of weight on the hitch when towing the trailer empty. Which is a lot more than usuall. My trailers usually have a hydraulic system located in the tonge to operate the tilt bed, this is were my extra weight comes from.
I usually place my axles 12" back from the center mark of the frame, this has worked out very well for myself and customers. The trailers tow very nice empty at highway speeds, with no fishtailing noticed.
My own trailer is an 18 footer with tilt bed and 2'" elm bolted on top. The trailer weighed 1990 lbs when the lumber was still green. I am sure it weighs less now that the wood has dried out.
If you go to my profile you can see a few of my trailers that I have built. If you have any other questions, please do not be afraid to ask.
Later
Kirk
Building this type of trailer is my specialty. You are definately on the right track. The 4" channell will work great for the frame, I would suggest 2" square tube as your cross members. This will give your trailer rigidity because you can weld all four sides of the tube. I like to use the channell for the tongue as well. This makes for a very strong tongue as well as giving you extra tongue weight.
I always encourage people to opt for the 18 footer if they are on the fence. The extra 2' makes it much easier to position a car to get optimum weight distribution. You will not notice the difference and it only ads about 50 bucks to the cost of steel. The main disadvantage is you will have to special order lumber for the deck or go to a private saw mill for the deck.
As for the location of the axles, there is no real formula, execpt that you do not want the axles closer to the front than back. The only thing we are worried about is how much tongue weight you are willing put on the bumper. One of my trucks is also a Tundra (02). I have roughly 220lbs of weight on the hitch when towing the trailer empty. Which is a lot more than usuall. My trailers usually have a hydraulic system located in the tonge to operate the tilt bed, this is were my extra weight comes from.
I usually place my axles 12" back from the center mark of the frame, this has worked out very well for myself and customers. The trailers tow very nice empty at highway speeds, with no fishtailing noticed.
My own trailer is an 18 footer with tilt bed and 2'" elm bolted on top. The trailer weighed 1990 lbs when the lumber was still green. I am sure it weighs less now that the wood has dried out.
If you go to my profile you can see a few of my trailers that I have built. If you have any other questions, please do not be afraid to ask.
Later
Kirk
If you are hauling cars, I highly suggest a dovetail.
koditten
Well-known member
First, I want to make sure we are comparing apples to apples. My trailers Have the wheels/fenders on the outside of the frame rails. I hope this is what you intend by the term "deck over"".
You have your choice of turning the channel with the flanges inward or outward. They both have their advantages and disadvantages. With the flanges out, this will protect the marker lights from getting knocked into, but it makes it more difficult to wire because you have to run conduits or wire supports inside the frame to support the wireing. With the flanges in, you actually have a space between the flange and the edge of the lumber, as long as you make the lumber the same height as the frame. You lower the cross members the same thickness as you wood. This way you have about 1.24" space to run your wireing the full length of your frame, makes it a lot easier to wire. While I am on the subject of wireing, I dont like to use conduit. I like all my wiring exposed so I can easily make repairs. I live in Michigan, so I know I will be making repairs. The road salt is hard on the wireing system. I know people will flame me, but putting the wire in conduits does not make the wire last longer. It just makes it a ***** to repair. I like to keep it simple. Do not buy a prefab trailer wire harness. Make your own with a decent stranded 14awg. I like to strip the wires, twist, solder, roofing tar then a wire nut. This recipe has been the best I have found so far. My trailer is on it's 5th winter and I have yet to make any repairs or change lights (LED's).
As for mounting the axles to the channel, just weld the spring hangers to the bottom of the channell flange. You are going to find out that the flange is narrower than the spring hanger. This poses no problem, the channell is plenty strong. While we are talking about welding the hangers to the frame, I like to just weld the front and back of the hangers. I dont weld along the sides. With the 3 hangers per side, if you weld the sides, the welds will pull on the channell as the welds cool and shrink. This will make the trailer front and back look like it is sagging if you look at it from the side at a distance.
If you are willing to send me an email adress I will send some pictures of a trailer I did last month. You will be able see a lot because the photos are of the trailer in the construction phase.
You have your choice of turning the channel with the flanges inward or outward. They both have their advantages and disadvantages. With the flanges out, this will protect the marker lights from getting knocked into, but it makes it more difficult to wire because you have to run conduits or wire supports inside the frame to support the wireing. With the flanges in, you actually have a space between the flange and the edge of the lumber, as long as you make the lumber the same height as the frame. You lower the cross members the same thickness as you wood. This way you have about 1.24" space to run your wireing the full length of your frame, makes it a lot easier to wire. While I am on the subject of wireing, I dont like to use conduit. I like all my wiring exposed so I can easily make repairs. I live in Michigan, so I know I will be making repairs. The road salt is hard on the wireing system. I know people will flame me, but putting the wire in conduits does not make the wire last longer. It just makes it a ***** to repair. I like to keep it simple. Do not buy a prefab trailer wire harness. Make your own with a decent stranded 14awg. I like to strip the wires, twist, solder, roofing tar then a wire nut. This recipe has been the best I have found so far. My trailer is on it's 5th winter and I have yet to make any repairs or change lights (LED's).
As for mounting the axles to the channel, just weld the spring hangers to the bottom of the channell flange. You are going to find out that the flange is narrower than the spring hanger. This poses no problem, the channell is plenty strong. While we are talking about welding the hangers to the frame, I like to just weld the front and back of the hangers. I dont weld along the sides. With the 3 hangers per side, if you weld the sides, the welds will pull on the channell as the welds cool and shrink. This will make the trailer front and back look like it is sagging if you look at it from the side at a distance.
If you are willing to send me an email adress I will send some pictures of a trailer I did last month. You will be able see a lot because the photos are of the trailer in the construction phase.
nate379
Banned
Deck over is the trailer deck is over the tires, like a snowmobile trailer. Nice wide 8ft deck with no wheel wells. Only trouble is they are quite a bit taller than a reg trailer unless you have very small tires under it.
As far as building yourself or buying, shop around. I got my trailer brand new for not much more than it would have cost me just in materials. Factor in time and it was a no brainer.
I got mine from Big Bubba (yeah I know... wtf?) in Utah. 10k rated, brakes on both axles, 18ft long. 1/4" diamond plate drive over fenders, GN style jack at the deck (instead of by the tongue). HD ramps (weigh like 90lbs each). All Powdercoated... was just under $3000. Pretty much it's a modified Bobcat trailer.
As far as building yourself or buying, shop around. I got my trailer brand new for not much more than it would have cost me just in materials. Factor in time and it was a no brainer.
I got mine from Big Bubba (yeah I know... wtf?) in Utah. 10k rated, brakes on both axles, 18ft long. 1/4" diamond plate drive over fenders, GN style jack at the deck (instead of by the tongue). HD ramps (weigh like 90lbs each). All Powdercoated... was just under $3000. Pretty much it's a modified Bobcat trailer.
koditten
Well-known member
Nate379:
Thats what I thaught. I like to build the car haulers with the wheels on the outside, makes a much lower trailer, espicially for loading low slung cars. The 8' wide is nice, but I will still stick with my 7' wides. I l ike to be able to keep an eye on all my tires in the mirrors.
Sorry about all the useless info I sent you guys.
Later
Kirk
Thats what I thaught. I like to build the car haulers with the wheels on the outside, makes a much lower trailer, espicially for loading low slung cars. The 8' wide is nice, but I will still stick with my 7' wides. I l ike to be able to keep an eye on all my tires in the mirrors.
Sorry about all the useless info I sent you guys.
Later
Kirk