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Trailering question

HeadsUp

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Had a 4 post lift delivered to a friends garage. I have a 3500lb 6x10 trailer. Question is would you put a 13.5' 1900lb lift in the back and strap the hell out of it? Or am I just asking for trouble?
 
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Isaac-1

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I think the big question is how far would you have to go with it, and at what speed? If this friend is a mile away and 35 mph speed zone on nice smooth streets then that is one thing, If the friend is 45 miles down the interstate with a 70 mph speed limit that is another.
 

dirttracker18

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I guess it would depend on the weight of the trailer. Subtract that from the 3500# rating and that is what is left for capacity. I would think you are within the range.

Hang a little more out the front of the trailer, over the tongue area, and a little less off the back.

If it fits within capacity you are fine. Check the air in the tires, check the bearings and you should be go.

Strap it down and check periodically.
 
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HeadsUp

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His shop is about 20 miles away and can avoid highways. I've got 10,000lb straps I will be using to make sure it doesn't fall out the back of the trailer. The crate will be sticking out the back by 3.5'. Due to trailer construction it can't got any further forward (3/4 boxed in).
 

paullie

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I think the big question is how far would you have to go with it, and at what speed? If this friend is a mile away and 35 mph speed zone on nice smooth streets then that is one thing, If the friend is 45 miles down the interstate with a 70 mph speed limit that is another.


this right here^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 

paullie

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His shop is about 20 miles away and can avoid highways. I've got 10,000lb straps I will be using to make sure it doesn't fall out the back of the trailer. The crate will be sticking out the back by 3.5'. Due to trailer construction it can't got any further forward (3/4 boxed in).

as long as you keep on the "side roads" and keep the speed down you "should" be fine. You might wanna have someone follow you to keep an eye on it and to keep somebody from rearending you and breaking your lift
 

JimVonBaden

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His shop is about 20 miles away and can avoid highways. I've got 10,000lb straps I will be using to make sure it doesn't fall out the back of the trailer. The crate will be sticking out the back by 3.5'. Due to trailer construction it can't got any further forward (3/4 boxed in).

It still depends. If the crate is heavy on one end, and you can put it that end first, you should be OK. If it is balanced, and your trailer is balanced, your load will be very tongue light, and that would be very unsafe.

Maybe at no more than 35mph on smooth back roads you MIGHT be OK, but it would probably be better to rent a U-haul trailer of an appropriate size.

Jim :cool:
 
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Isaac-1

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My biggest concern would be load balance, make sure the heavy end is to the front, you don't want a big weight acting as a lever arm off the back of the trailler trying to lift up on the hitch everytime you hit a bump.
 

KPSquared

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Your trailer is rated to 3500lbs. . . your load is 1900 lbs. That leaves you with room for a 1600lb trailer. . . chances are you're well within your weight limit. Get the heavy end forward, strap it down good and rock and roll. I would tow that without a second though. Then again, I know what all my trailers weigh empty. . .
 

larry_g

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My advise, go for it, drive fast to eliminate exposure time. ;)

Like others have said, if you can get some positive weight on the tongue then you should be good. You also have the option of uncrating it and moving the small parts to the forward end of the trailer to balance the load, or making two trips.

lg
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Busted_Knuckles

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I would do it, your within parameters, just make sure you have sufficient tongue weight or the tail will go to wagging the dog, unless your pulling it with a heavy DRW pickup. But overall the numbers are pretty light. Just make sure your tires are not all dry rotted to hell and 15 years old. Might stop and check your tires and hubs for heat after your first couple miles.
 

Falcon67

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Your trailer is rated to 3500lbs. . . your load is 1900 lbs. That leaves you with room for a 1600lb trailer. . . chances are you're well within your weight limit. Get the heavy end forward, strap it down good and rock and roll. I would tow that without a second though. Then again, I know what all my trailers weigh empty. . .

This. When I picked up the S150 skid loader, I used my 7000 lb rated car hauler. Guy at the rental said the skid weighed 6000lbs. No problem with the pull down the highway. Truck had 8200 lbs total on the hitch, rated for 9600. I don't remember the GCVW rating, but I was about max. Unlike the race car, the F150 knew something was back there.
 

rslaback

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Do you have access to some 55 gallon drums? I have used them on the front of a trailer filled with a correct amount of water to compensate for a tail heavy trailer. Make sure the extra weight of the ballast doesn't put you over what the trailer and your truck can safely pull and stop.
 

38Chevy454

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Do you have access to some 55 gallon drums? I have used them on the front of a trailer filled with a correct amount of water to compensate for a tail heavy trailer. Make sure the extra weight of the ballast doesn't put you over what the trailer and your truck can safely pull and stop.

That is a good idea, put some additional weight to make sure the weight on the trailer is forward of center.

Agree with the rest, use your trailer and just take back roads, you will be fine. I would put a red flag on the back to make sure you don't get hassle for over length past the end of the trailer.
 

haugy

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As long as it's balanced over the axles, the weight total will be fine.

It's where the weight is on the trailer that counts (in this case).

I'd rock that weight all day long. Just make sure your trailer is in good condition, grease, bearings, tires, etc.
 

Interex

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As long as it's balanced over the axles, the weight total will be fine.

It's where the weight is on the trailer that counts (in this case).
Absolutely not.

You need to get at least 10% of the load on the tongue or risk a serious accident.
 

admranger

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And no more than 20%.

Jim :cool:

And not exceed your tow vehicle's tongue weight load limit or total load limit (including everything else you have in the vehicle).

Air the trailer tires up to the sidewall max so you have max load carrying capacity, check bearing play and grease 'em if you haven't in a while, cross those safety chains, make sure your lights work, maybe even tie a little red hanky to the back of your load.

I always checked my straps after going for a bit as things can shift and settle after a few bumps.
 

IndyGarage

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Geez - you guys are a bunch of nervous nellies. A honda Civic would tow 3500lbs, no problem. That's hardly any weight at all.

Barrels of water? C'mon.

And he's hauling steel beams - which are simple because the weight is compact.

I haul stuff up to 10,000 pounds all the time on my trailers.

You need to be more concerned about getting it on the trailer, getting it off the trailer and making sure it's strapped tight in between.

A pair of straps will not be enough. For a load like that I would probably take about 8-10 straps. You can use your heavy straps over top of the load to make sure it doesn't bounce off, but you also need to make sure it can't shift side to side or forward and backward.

Assuming the lift has two main beams, I would put a couple heavy straps over top, then put a smaller strap - 1 1/2 inch from some point in the trailer to each end of each main tube so it can't shift fore and aft.

make sure you have enough extra straps to tie down any loose parts that might get blown off in the wind.

You can never have enough tie downs and straps - go buy a couple packages of 1 inch motorcycle straps as backup. I also carry a package of 48 inch heavy zip ties plus I have a coil of wire and my clamp-tite with me and those things have saved me a couple of times.

Several months ago I was hauling a forklift about 125 miles in the rain and I lost the seat bottom somewhere on the road - didn't think to strap it down.
 
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KPSquared

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A civic can maybe pull it but a lot of towing has to do with being able to safely stop that load as well. I see all sorts of idiots with over loaded junk on the highway. No way in hell they could have a controlled stop with the weight. Pisses me off to no end. Going to kill someone at some point being stupid like that. Weight ratings are there for a reason. . .not just stickers for mouth breathers to ignore.
 

Steevo

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The only issue of concern is having more than 50% of the load weight behind the trailer axle. That causes light tongue weight, which causes trailer sway. Two weeks ago, a guy did that going from Home depot to home near here. 4x8 open utility trailer with a huge load of 2x6x12' boards, neatly stacked and strapped. Four feet hanging out the back of the trailer. Less than 4 miles, but two of them on highway. Trailer started to sway side-to-side, caused the rear wheels of the pickup to break loose and spun the whole mess into the ditch.
If your load length and shape prohibits getting 60% of it ahead of the trailer axle, add enough weight forward of the axle to make the tongue heavy again. I'd rather tow an overloaded trailer than a rear-heavy one.
 
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HeadsUp

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Didn't even think about keeping the most of the weight in front of the trailer wheels for stability. I've loaded 3000lbs of rocks or top soil in the trailer so I'm not too concerned about the tongue weight.

However, I think I'll go with venturesomerite's plan and spend the money on a trailer rental.

Thanks to all that responded to the thread.
 

mikester

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If you are worried about it, why not just waste $50-$100 and rent a trailer you don't have to worry about? It's worth it to me.

That is what I would do. And I own an 18' car trailer and a 6.5x12 drop gate landscape trailer. The idea of the load sticking out of the trailer would make me think twice.
 

BD1

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Is your trailer floor in good shape ? Adequate tie down points ? What is the floor , wood, metal ? Just wondering about sliding. Load heavy end towards tongue and lay down some 2x6 across deck perpendicular to the wood floor if that's what you have.
 

Isaac-1

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For anyone following this, when carrying dense even marginally heavy loads special caution needs to be taken with decking. I was hauling a small walk behind style fork lift (Big Joe PDC-20, ship weight only about 3800 pounds) on my 24 ft gooseneck a couple of years ago, went acrosss a railroad crossing and the rear steering wheel which carries most of the weight (3 wheel lift) went right through the nearly new decking plank, thankfully the planks on either side held.
 

JimVonBaden

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The only issue of concern is having more than 50% of the load weight behind the trailer axle. That causes light tongue weight, which causes trailer sway. Two weeks ago, a guy did that going from Home depot to home near here. 4x8 open utility trailer with a huge load of 2x6x12' boards, neatly stacked and strapped. Four feet hanging out the back of the trailer. Less than 4 miles, but two of them on highway. Trailer started to sway side-to-side, caused the rear wheels of the pickup to break loose and spun the whole mess into the ditch.
If your load length and shape prohibits getting 60% of it ahead of the trailer axle, add enough weight forward of the axle to make the tongue heavy again. I'd rather tow an overloaded trailer than a rear-heavy one.

Exactly my point!:beer:

Jim :cool:
 

dirttracker18

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Don't let the nanny police scare you off. No need to rent a trailer when yours is just fine. The load is within the rating, good there. Length is over by 3 and a half feet. Hang 2 feet out the front and 1 1/2 feet out the back. Trailers are built with the wheels set back for proper weight distribution. Place it like I said.

No worries it will tow great.

Those with concerns have never seen an oversized long load?

This is why you own a trailer, it is fine and I would not have even thought twice about it.
 
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dirttracker18

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For anyone following this, when carrying dense even marginally heavy loads special caution needs to be taken with decking. I was hauling a small walk behind style fork lift (Big Joe PDC-20, ship weight only about 3800 pounds) on my 24 ft gooseneck a couple of years ago, went acrosss a railroad crossing and the rear steering wheel which carries most of the weight (3 wheel lift) went right through the nearly new decking plank, thankfully the planks on either side held.

That's a lot of weight in a tiny area, the footprint of that front tire. Put down a metal plate under the wheel next time.
 

JimVonBaden

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Don't let the nanny police scare you off. No need to rent a trailer when yours is just fine. The load is within the rating, good there. Length is over by 3 and a half feet. Hang 2 feet out the front and 1 1/2 feet out the back. Trailers are built with the wheels set back for proper weight distribution. Place it like I said.

No worries it will tow great.

Those with concerns have never seen an oversized long load?

This is why you own a trailer, it is fine and I would not have even thought twice about it.

Sure, so long as the tongue weight is at least 10% there is no issue with a long load. Ignore that little detail at your own, and everyone else's peril!

Proper loading isn't just toss it on and go, unless you are a *****!

Jim :cool:
 

dirttracker18

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Sure, so long as the tongue weight is at least 10% there is no issue with a long load. Ignore that little detail at your own, and everyone else's peril!

Proper loading isn't just toss it on and go, unless you are a *****!

Jim :cool:

Right but this load should no issue at all if loaded correctly. A slight overhang front and back and all is good.

Too many guys trying to scare him out of a small easy job.

A bigger trailer is no better if loaded incorrectly either.

My point is that his trailer is suitable for the job at hand. Don't blow it out of proportion. Load it slightly forward, strap it down, check the trailer and go.
 
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larry_g

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Right but this load should no issue at all if loaded correctly. A slight overhang front and back and all is good.

Too many guys trying to scare him out of a small easy job.

A bigger trailer is no better if loaded incorrectly either.

My point is that his trailer is suitable for the job at hand. Don't blow it out of proportion. Load it slightly forward, strap it down, check the trailer and go.

I'll bet a dollar to a dime you did not read post #4.

lg
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Gary S

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Most lifts are fairly easy to disassemble. Why not take it down far enough and put it in your pickup and haul it home?
 

koditten

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D.tracker and others got it right. 10% or so on the tongue, keep speeds down and tie it down good. That trailer should have no issues...as long as you know that the bearings are in snug and well greased.

If this small load is bothering you that much, maybe just call a flat bed tow truck.

This type of load is exactly why we have utility trailers...so we can do it ourselves at the time or our choosing.

If you are worried about the bearings, stop every 5 miles and touch the hubs. You should have a hard finding any heat build up.

I don't see a reason to use 10 straps. Like I tell my customers, " if the load lets go because the straps broke, you problems started long before the straps broke." (accident)

Later

KO
 

koditten

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By the way, the trailer in my avitar is a 3500# rated trailer. I, and many of my customers can report honestly that we carry in excess of 2k regularly.

Later

KO
 

HotrodHR

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Save yourself a lot of headaches... call a local towing company that operates rollbacks and have them pick up and deliver. They can winch it up on the rollback and deliver to your location, backup and slide it into your shop...

Don't know what they would charge in your area but around here we are talking about $65 to $100... safer and cheaper in the long run... JMHO
 

LutzTD

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I wouldnt have any issues using your trailer, I like chain binders myself, maybe straps for the little extras, but the big heavy beams I would use chains. I had straps eat through from steel edges even with the extra sleeves
 
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