most folks misuse transfer punches, resulting in flattened points. no need to hit them like a center punch, just lightly tap them, making a light mark THEN use the center punch to make the mark deeper & more defined.
I've got an older set of very expensive Starrett punches in my machinist toolbox BUT I also have a set of the <$20 Chinesium HF punches that I use for general shop/automotive/fabrication work ... the HF set gets way more use just because i don't really care about them and I've been using that set for about 10 years now.
True.
However, if you get good punches, you CAN hit them and not distort them.
The Spellmans have never distorted, the cheap ones flatten out even if you're gentle with them.
I use transfer punches almost daily, and we've had nothing but bad luck with the cheap ones, and we're gentle on them. All we use the for now is rough pin gages, they're almost useless as transfer punches. A couple taps on some stainless and they're done for. They last longer on steel and aluminum, but the cheap punches are not worth owning, IMO.
The tips on the spellman punches are very hard. The shanks are not hardened, so they will mushroom over time. On my set up to 1", we have had to regrind a few heads due to mushrooming. The tips are good as new.
Another EXCELLENT transfer tool are transfer SCREWS. Heimann made the best, but unfortunately they're no longer in business. Other companies make them though. They thread into a hole you want to transfer, then you can tap the plate or whatever you want to put the pattern on and they will ***** the surface where the hole is.